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New RC spare tire relocation bracket installed.

Gron86

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What does everyone think? Everything is nice n’ tight. It obviously clears the bumper very well. And I can finally use the bezel around my back up cam.
Prior to this I was running a wheel spacer on the carrier in order to bearly clear the stock steel bumper.
Now I think it might be a bit to tall.
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Mantacon

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Their new bracket is way too tall and blocks too much of the rear window. The reason they raised it was because certain tires were interfering with the backup sensors. I'd find an older bracket, or get a different one such as the stock Mopar or smittybuilt.
 
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Gron86

Gron86

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I’m happy with the results. I’ll admit it’s a bit higher than I expected, but nothing I can’t live with. Actually at times, I like the look. Gives me additional clearance Incase I want to get bigger tires/wheels in the future.
 

Jeepsterfreak

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I’m happy with the results. I’ll admit it’s a bit higher than I expected, but nothing I can’t live with. Actually at times, I like the look. Gives me additional clearance Incase I want to get bigger tires/wheels in the future.
What size tires are on your factory 7.5” wheels?
 

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lightsout

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My 35's were touching the stock bumper I received the relocation bracket from RC and it raised the tire more than 4 " which was too high and the tire blocked too much of the rear window, So I removed it and drilled it out for a 2" lift and everything fit perfect. The 4 inch lift requires you to take the wiring for the brake light and camera apart as it will not reach at the 4" lift. with the 2" lift there is no need to mess with the wiring. So unless you are hanging 17's buy the RC bracket but drill it out at 2" above stock holes.
 

tomahawk

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My 35's were touching the stock bumper I received the relocation bracket from RC and it raised the tire more than 4 " which was too high and the tire blocked too much of the rear window, So I removed it and drilled it out for a 2" lift and everything fit perfect. The 4 inch lift requires you to take the wiring for the brake light and camera apart as it will not reach at the 4" lift. with the 2" lift there is no need to mess with the wiring. So unless you are hanging 17's buy the RC bracket but drill it out at 2" above stock holes.
I ordered the RC from Extreme Terrain and was ready to send back because of the 4.75" rise. Per ET's website the RC bracket was only supposed to raise the spare tire 2.25". Apparently Rough Country changed the design (kept the same part number but failed to notify the retailers about the engineering changes they made). When I called Extreme Terrain they corrected the website info on the bracket to read the 4.75" change. They gave me an RA to return the bracket, but I think I may try keeping and drilling new holes 2.5" lower.:fingerscrossed:
 

1quick1

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Wow that sucker is really high up. I prefer my older bracket for the extra visibility and plenty of room with the 315/70/17's
 

lightsout

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I ordered the RC from Extreme Terrain and was ready to send back because of the 4.75" rise. Per ET's website the RC bracket was only supposed to raise the spare tire 2.25". Apparently Rough Country changed the design (kept the same part number but failed to notify the retailers about the engineering changes they made). When I called Extreme Terrain they corrected the website info on the bracket to read the 4.75" change. They gave me an RA to return the bracket, but I think I may try keeping and drilling new holes 2.5" lower.:fingerscrossed:
if you go 2" above the stock holes or 2.75" below the RC holes you can still get all the bolts in, any higher it would be tough on the two upper bolts. You could go as high as 2.75 above stock, 2: worked perfect for me. Plus I did not have to extend the light and camera cable. It is heavy Steel so get a good bit.

Note it really helps on the upper two bolts since they are inside the outer plate that you have a ratchet wrenches, then finish with a 1/4 drive ratchet and socket since they are small enough to fit in there.
 

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tomahawk

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if you go 2" above the stock holes or 2.75" below the RC holes you can still get all the bolts in, any higher it would be tough on the two upper bolts. You could go as high as 2.75 above stock, 2: worked perfect for me. Plus I did not have to extend the light and camera cable. It is heavy Steel so get a good bit.

Note it really helps on the upper two bolts since they are inside the outer plate that you have a ratchet wrenches, then finish with a 1/4 drive ratchet and socket since they are small enough to fit in there.
Can you post some pictures of your mod? Would like to see before I attempt this feat.
 

lightsout

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Can you post some pictures of your mod? Would like to see before I attempt this feat.
It will not photograph well however I can post a pic of the tire on the bracket later today. It is really a pain to remove that 35" spare. When you remove the stock tire rack use that as a template for where to drill that way you get the holes perfect.
 

lightsout

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It will not photograph well however I can post a pic of the tire on the bracket later today. It is really a pain to remove that 35" spare. When you remove the stock tire rack use that as a template for where to drill that way you get the holes perfect.
Here is my 35: spare on the RC relocation bracket with drilled at a 2" lift. It also the bum-stop easy as I went to Ace and bought replacement rubber 1-1/8" stool feet and if fit inside the existing stop and was the perfect length, no other extension needed...

Spare_zpsqmsspdw1.jpg
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