SAF
Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Well, I joined this website with one thing in mind: Getting my factory axle issue sorted.
My brand new JLR has that dreaded rear-end 'knock' at low speeds. I really don't want to go down the rabbit hole of trying to fix it as I was not a fan of how the service center treated me, so I'm looking to replace both axles (might as well knock it all out at once). I simply see this as an opportunity to upgrade a vehicle I'd like to keep for a long time.
-I'd like to retain the factory suspension (no lift, no aftermarket anything, but maybe the synergy steering upgrade kit)
-Keep my aftermarket wheels and tires (35s, KMC wheels pretty close to factory offset/backspacing)
-Re-gear to 4.56 to help with whatever weight I throw at this thing (new bumper w/ winch, possibly rooftop tent, guns, ammo, gear, etc.)
-No rock crawling, but I'd like to handle the Ozarks, Kansas and Texas wilderness (large hills, sand, rutted senderos)
So, because I don't want to start upgrading knuckles, shafts, etc. on what might be a faulty axle (internals at least), I feel like the Currie axles are the way to go in order to retain my factory wheels and tires.
Currie 44 up front, LP60 out back. While I'd like to install an ARB air compressor for airing up out in the wilderness, I was wondering if the currie axle comes pre-routed with tubes in the actual axle, or if I will need to have a shop drill into it.
An e-locker also sounds appealing, but I noticed that Currie doesn't recommend the factory dash switch with a harness adapter as it doesn't give adequate voltage. So, what do I need for an eaton e-locker? Just some aftermarket harnesses and an additional switch?
I'm also not sure if I'll need new axles, but because I plan to keep factory suspension, I'm assuming angles won't be too different than factory, but I don't know.
Any other ideas and recommendations are totally welcome. Thanks for your constructive input.
My brand new JLR has that dreaded rear-end 'knock' at low speeds. I really don't want to go down the rabbit hole of trying to fix it as I was not a fan of how the service center treated me, so I'm looking to replace both axles (might as well knock it all out at once). I simply see this as an opportunity to upgrade a vehicle I'd like to keep for a long time.
-I'd like to retain the factory suspension (no lift, no aftermarket anything, but maybe the synergy steering upgrade kit)
-Keep my aftermarket wheels and tires (35s, KMC wheels pretty close to factory offset/backspacing)
-Re-gear to 4.56 to help with whatever weight I throw at this thing (new bumper w/ winch, possibly rooftop tent, guns, ammo, gear, etc.)
-No rock crawling, but I'd like to handle the Ozarks, Kansas and Texas wilderness (large hills, sand, rutted senderos)
So, because I don't want to start upgrading knuckles, shafts, etc. on what might be a faulty axle (internals at least), I feel like the Currie axles are the way to go in order to retain my factory wheels and tires.
Currie 44 up front, LP60 out back. While I'd like to install an ARB air compressor for airing up out in the wilderness, I was wondering if the currie axle comes pre-routed with tubes in the actual axle, or if I will need to have a shop drill into it.
An e-locker also sounds appealing, but I noticed that Currie doesn't recommend the factory dash switch with a harness adapter as it doesn't give adequate voltage. So, what do I need for an eaton e-locker? Just some aftermarket harnesses and an additional switch?
I'm also not sure if I'll need new axles, but because I plan to keep factory suspension, I'm assuming angles won't be too different than factory, but I don't know.
Any other ideas and recommendations are totally welcome. Thanks for your constructive input.
Sponsored
