Minor issues growing in frequency

[YippieKiYayMrFalcon]

the Selec-Trac electronic shifter came out of full-time 4WD and got into part-time 4H on its own

The transfer case shifter physically shifted between the positions on its own? How is that even possible?

I’d understand if it was a dial selector, but the lever shifting between positions on its own is nuts to me.

Given your mileage, is this a secondary vehicle for you? Is getting your money now and waiting some time to replace it an option?

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[aldo98229]

The transfer case shifter physically shifted between the positions on its own? How is that even possible?

I’d understand if it was a dial selector, but the lever shifting between positions on its own is nuts to me.

Given your mileage, is this a secondary vehicle for you? Is getting your money now and waiting some time to replace it an option?

The Selec-Trac shifter has 4A and 4H at the same level; a little nudge to the left engages full-time; a little nudge to the right engages part-time.

Once in awhile the transfer case slips from 4A into 4H. It happens backing up; I can tell something’s off because the steering starts binding. I look at the transfer case display in the IP and it shows no selection. I have to push the shifter into 2WD and then back into 4A.

I bought the Jeep, new, in November 2019, a couple months before COVID hit. So the Jeep has mostly sat in the garage for most of the past year. That’s the reason the mileage is so low.

 

[aldo98229]

This is the shift pattern on Selec-Trac

When Selec-Trac is engaged in 4A, the 4H Auto lights up on the dashboard transfer case display. When it slips out of 4A and into 4H, the display shows no selection —like on photo below.

 

[YippieKiYayMrFalcon]

This is the shift pattern on Selec-Trac

When Selec-Trac is engaged in 4A, the 4H Auto lights up on the dashboard transfer case display. When it slips out of 4A and into 4H, the display shows no selection —like on photo below.

Gotcha. I wasn’t doubting you, rather just expressing my surprise that it could shift on its own. I used to have a Sahara with SelecTrac and didn’t remember it being that easy to move between them.

That’s a tough spot to be in. Not sure what I’d do, but if I had to guess I’d probably hunt for a deal somewhere and do the best I could and just get out of it assuming it’s not something simple like the battery. Once I loose confidence in the vehicle, it becomes stressful to drive, especially the further from home you get.

Good luck.

 

[aldo98229]

Gotcha. I wasn’t doubting you, rather just expressing my surprise that it could shift on its own. I used to have a Sahara with SelecTrac and didn’t remember it being that easy to move between them.

That’s a tough spot to be in. Not sure what I’d do, but if I had to guess I’d probably hunt for a deal somewhere and do the best I could and just get out of it assuming it’s not something simple like the battery. Once I loose confidence in the vehicle, it becomes stressful to drive, especially the further from home you get.

Good luck.

Thanks.

Yes, that is very true.

I’ve decided to stick with it. It appears to be a matter of replacing the battery(ies).

Over the past couple days it started failing to start on first try; it starts right up on second try which, again, points to battery.

I was planning to drive up a trail this weekend. But I haven’t due to these issues. I don’t want to get stranded at 5,000 ft in elevation.

 

[MatthewAMEL]

I have a 2017 Camaro and a 2018 Honda Accord. Two years ago, the Camaro started doing really weird things...car wouldn't recognize the key fob, get random 'service axle now' messages, etc. I pulled codes and nothing was there. After it stranded me (wouldn't recognize key fob), I went to the Camaro boards and pleaded for help. Almost all the suggestions were to check battery voltage. Sure enough, it was low and the battery was on it's last legs.

Last June, the Honda started doing strange things also...TPMS messages, the backup camera would come on a random intervals, etc. On a hunch, I checked and that battery was low voltage also.

Up to that point, both cars had been bulletproof. Extremely reliable. No unscheduled trips to dealer.

I guess the moral of the story is: the more electronic vehicles become, the more susceptible they are to voltage issues. I plan on changing batteries every two years from now on.

And as for going into a Bronco...my wife and I placed an order in September of 2020. We received an email from Ford the 1st week of May that said our order had been pushed into MY2022 for a Spring 2022 delivery and they were doing their best to ensure it wasn't pushed further to MY2023. We cancelled it and bought a Wrangler.

 

[cosine]

@aldo98229 do you have a battery tender. since the problem is the battery and the lack of driving it. (no pun intended). i would start 2 things. 1. put the battery on a tender. that way its keeping a charge. 2. take the jeep out 2/3 times a week. take a nice 45min to an hour ride. this way the battery is getting a nice charge.

 

[Deleted member 53226]

It sounds to me like a short in a wire harness somewhere, maybe an exposed wire that keeps grounding out on contact with metal or another wire. I can't be sure that is the problem 100% but it sure sounds like it. To me, the numerous and usually unrelated systems glitching randomly is a give away.

Usually when everything goes haywire like that, its a frayed wire somewhere. The problem is the bugger is super hard to find since it could be anywhere in the harness.

 

[aldo98229]

I replaced both batteries. The Jeep starts right away now, and there are no more idiot lights coming on.

But now when I try to stream Pandora, Uconnect says “Connect Device”, even though it is connected to my phone...ugh!

 

[dsgrey]

I guess the moral of the story is: the more electronic vehicles become, the more susceptible they are to voltage issues. I plan on changing batteries every two years from now on.

Yes, learned about that when we bought a new minivan back in 1990 and the first vehicle we'd owned with all the electronic gadgets for that period in time. The battery went bad and the low voltage lit the dash up like a Christmas tree. It still had enough juice to start the car but the door locks would also constantly try to lock or unlock while driving.

I load test my batteries quarterly which doesn't provide a 100% guarantee since batteries can go downhill quickly. But a good tester will show the numbers and how the battery degrades over time. I believe the rule is to replace when it's only 80% of the stamped numbers. My son-in-law did have his die and somehow his VW had been able to turn over his engine with 40%.

 

[mwilk012]

How sure are you that you aren’t hitting the shifter with your knee?

 

[aldo98229]

How sure are you that you aren’t hitting the shifter with your knee?

If I were physically engaging the shifter into 4H, with my knee or otherwise, the dashboard display would show 4H. But that’s not happening; when the transfer case slips out of 4A and into 4H, the display on the dashboard doesn’t light up any selection. I have to manually shift into 2WD, then back into 4A or 4H for the display to show something.

Now that I have new batteries, in addition to miscellaneous warning lights coming on, I realize the engine felt rough; the speakers were starting to pop loudly upon starting the Jeep, too.

I am hoping that the Selec-Trac selector issue is also related to the batteries needing replacing. I have engaged into 4A to see if it sticks.

 

[Mtrctylarry]

If I were physically engaging the shifter into 4H, with my knee or otherwise, the dashboard display would show 4H. But that’s not happening; when the transfer case slips out of 4A and into 4H, the display on the dashboard doesn’t light up any selection. I have to manually shift into 2WD, then back into 4A or 4H for the display to show something.

Now that I have new batteries, in addition to miscellaneous warning lights coming on, I realize the engine felt rough; the speakers were starting to pop loudly upon starting the Jeep, too.

I am hoping that the Selec-Trac selector issue is also related to the batteries needing replacing. I have engaged into 4A to see if it sticks.

I just had the same thing happen to me yesterday. Started first in garage and it took two try’s pushing the start button. Backed out and noticed a red light on below the tach, let it warm up to operating temp and shut off…got ready to leave and tried starting…no start, just a click, dash lit up with all sorts of warnings and noises from the speakers. shut everything down…reboot Started right up, no idiot lights. But it sure doesn’t leaving you with a good feeling about turning it off while you’re out somewhere. Like throwing the dice every time I start it. I always have it on a battery tender if it sits more then a few days…which is ridiculous in itself.

 

[aldo98229]

I just had the same thing happen to me yesterday. Started first in garage and it took two try’s pushing the start button. Backed out and noticed a red light on below the tach, let it warm up to operating temp and shut off…got ready to leave and tried starting…no start, just a click, dash lit up with all sorts of warnings and noises from the speakers. shut everything down…reboot Started right up, no idiot lights. But it sure doesn’t leaving you with a good feeling about turning it off while you’re out somewhere. Like throwing the dice every time I start it. I always have it on a battery tender if it sits more then a few days…which is ridiculous in itself.

That's how a modern day vehicle tells you the battery(ies) need replacing.

Replacing the auxiliary battery is not fun: you have to remove the main battery, which weighs 50 lbs; then the fuse box with all the connections underneath. This is just to be able to reach the cover for the auxiliary battery. Then you have to remove that cover, disconnect the aux battery and pull it out. The you have to put everything back together. It took me 3 hours to complete. Reconnecting the fuse box took the longest. There is not much room to get my hand in there and push the connectors in place.

This is the auxiliary battery I got. O'reilly keeps it is stock.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...AxQUvnJ-X793CDEyKG8V59HVwxPukm4QaAk_vEALw_wcB

I am amazed how smoothly the Jeep starts now.

I replaced both batteries at the same time so I don't have to do the same thing in six months.

 

[aldo98229]

PS - I hear the V6 eTorque doesn't have the auxiliary battery. That's enough to make me want to get it when the time comes to get a new Wrangler!

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