Map Updates on special for $99?!?

[JayJay]

Didn't Toyota end remote start on new vehicles once they were 3 years old.

The free, web based remote start on the JLs is only good for 12 months from date of purchase. After that you lose the feature unless you subscribe to the UConnect Remote Services (or whatever it's called).

Sponsored

 

[Deleted member 59498]

The free, web based remote start on the JLs is only good for 12 months from date of purchase. After that you lose the feature unless you subscribe to the UConnect Remote Services (or whatever it's called).

Its so slow I just use the fob. Guess it would be good if you had to park a good distance off. I can't see it being worth what they want to charge though after first 12 months. The app is less than good in my opinion. Chevy has that stuff down for sure, I had a Trailboss Silverado and it was a great app.

 

[JayJay]

I can't see it being worth what they want to charge though after first 12 months.

It really surprised me when I found out the free service was for 12 months only. Silly me, who didn't do his homework, thought it would be like his 2017 F150 that has free, web based remote start still working. And no, I don't use it nearly often enough to pay for the service.

 

[Gladius Nova]

I do think it's cool that if you use the uconnect for calls and navigation it dials down the blower so as to make the calls and voice commands more clear. I definitely think it would be neat if CarPlay had the same integration.

Or if Apple maps and Google maps showed turn by turn directions in the instrument cluster like the native navigation. If possible, that would be neat.

 

[Spank]

I must say I agree with this. I often use CarPlay but I use the built-in nav as well from time to time. It is actually the best built-in navigation system I’ve used on a vehicle up to this point. The live updates are so recent and accurate that it almost competes with Google Maps in terms of traffic data and road issues. For a built-in system, it’s quite good.

I really like the OEM navigation, too, but paying for map updates that are still years behind isn't worth the money.

If Jeep charged a $100/year subscription fee that included updates as frequent and recent as Google and Apple, live traffic not tethered to Sirius, and GPS data that doesn't require the 4G aircard to function properly, I'd be happy to pay for it.

 

[Medsker]

I did the update a few months ago and the next morning my battery had died and gone bad. I'm not saying they are related or it wasn't operator error but just as a FYI. Mine came with a radio update also that you had to use first which made me have to redo all my settings. Not a big deal I guess. It did have some newer roads around my area but I don't think it was worth the hassle and a new battery.

 

[mdaitcjl]

There's a software update included as well as the map update.

 

[Dyolfknip74]

I used to love WAZE, but for months I've struggled (unsuccessfully) to get the audio to function again. Anyone else experiencing this?

Not at all. Have you tried another device? I bet there is a setting on your phone you're missing. The newest version of Waze is the best one yet. It brings up AA about 5 seconds after I plug the cable in.

 

[Dyolfknip74]

There's a software update included as well as the map update.

We don't need to pay for software updates. What one are you speaking about?

 

[JSFoster75]

I use the built-in for 99% of my navigation...

• No worries about batteries dying on my phone
• Much larger screen than my phone (I don't like/use Apple CarPlay)
• Works even when there is no cell service...

 

[AZJeepGuy]

Just bought a Rubicon and pick it up next week. Does it come with nab or isn’t it something I have to turn on or subscribe to?

 

[mdaitcjl]

We don't need to pay for software updates. What one are you speaking about?

The one that's included in the navigation update package - there's 2 USB drives, one for the (uconnect) software update, and one for the map update. (2021 JLURD).

For me, this reports as 21.14.14 in the "dealer mode -> system information"

To get into dealer mode, turn the ignition on and hold "driver side temp up + temp down + front defrost" for 7-10 seconds

 

[rickinAZ]

Not at all. Have you tried another device? I bet there is a setting on your phone you're missing. The newest version of Waze is the best one yet. It brings up AA about 5 seconds after I plug the cable in.

I've tried everything but waving a dead chicken over my head at midnight - no soap. If you Google it, it's a common issue.

search terms: "no" "audio" "WAZE"
https://www.google.com/search?q=no+...rome..69i57.4049j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

So far none of the responses listed there have worked.

 

[jmccorm]

I've tried everything but waving a dead chicken over my head at midnight - no soap. If you Google it, it's a common issue.

search terms: "no" "audio" "WAZE"
https://www.google.com/search?q=no+...rome..69i57.4049j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

So far none of the responses listed there have worked.

Here's what I've found with the 8.4" uConnect radio:
The volume knob is multi-functional and they don't tell you when or why. [*]

Let me try to explain. You've got Apple's Map or Waze or something running in the background. You're playing music either from SiriusXM or your Bluetooth Apple Music, or whatever. So when you use the volume knob, you're turning up and down the volume for your music.

UNLESS!

If there's a sudden interruption of sound from your application, during that time and that time alone, the purpose of the volume knob changes. It is used to control the volume from your application and NOT your music.

SO...

If, in the distant past, you turned the volume all the way down while your application (Waze) was saying something, then from that point on, the volume for Waze will default to zero and you will never hear it again. Period. The secret to undoing this is to (however you can or just guess a lot) know the moment that Waze (or whatever app) will be silently saying something and to turn the volume up, restoring it to "normal".

If your music volume goes up, then your app wasn't saying anything at the time. If Waze starts talking again, turn it up to a good volume (quickly) so you can keep hearing it at that volume. Once it is done speaking, your volume knob will return to it's normal behavior which typically means whatever music source you're playing.

That's what I discovered for myself.
This might this help explain what's going on and how to fix it. [crossing fingers]

TL;DNR: Each source has it's own volume level (and unique on-screen icon representing it). Your app is a different source from your music. You probably once turned it down to zero, and now you can't turn it back up because you don't know when it is active. You can only adjust the volume of a source while it is active. The problem is with the interface, not you.

EDIT: [*] - I want to say that they display a small ambiguous icon representing the audio source if you're paying super-close attention while fiddling the volume knob. It really needs a screen with visible per-input volume controls.

 

[Dyolfknip74]

I've tried everything but waving a dead chicken over my head at midnight - no soap. If you Google it, it's a common issue.

search terms: "no" "audio" "WAZE"
https://www.google.com/search?q=no+...rome..69i57.4049j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

So far none of the responses listed there have worked.

Have you tried other devices and they do the same thing?

Sponsored