Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread)

[fczabala]

Unless over time the air is coming out of the cylinders but I've really bled this thing so much I don't know what to do with it anymore to try and get more air out.

I'm thinking it holds pressure since the system is "static"? but once you actually start actuating it (driving), it leaks air back in somehow? idk trying to think of something

in my case my clutch was having the same issues, it even creeped when it's locked in 1st or reverse with the pedal fully depressed

BUT it started working fine for like the past 2 months or so with the eventual every once in a while hard to shift into 1st or reverse but it was just "harder" as I was always able to either push it or "wiggle" it in

now I started noticing the same symptoms a little more often again SMH

I saw the photos of the guy who replaced his act with the south bend and the pictures of the act didn't give me any hope for mine

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[WJ43]

I'm thinking it holds pressure since the system is "static"? but once you actually start actuating it (driving), it leaks air back in somehow? idk trying to think of something

in my case my clutch was having the same issues, it even creeped when it's locked in 1st or reverse with the pedal fully depressed

BUT it started working fine for like the past 2 months or so with the eventual every once in a while hard to shift into 1st or reverse but it was just "harder" as I was always able to either push it or "wiggle" it in

now I started noticing the same symptoms a little more often again SMH

I saw the photos of the guy who replaced his act with the south bend and the pictures of the act didn't give me any hope for mine

if that was the case she would have fluid somewhere - no way the air is getting in without brake fluid getting out.

@SadRobot can you reach up and feel if there is fluid at the pedal connector at the firewall?

 

[roaniecowpony]

Something isn’t adding up to me. If bleeding resolves the issue temporarily I’d have to think air is somehow getting in the system / leaking. If that is figured out I think it might just solve a lot of people’s issues.

Yeah, I'm suspicious that the noise of the piston creaking in the bore of the cylinder is letting air into the system, a little at a time.

 

[azwjowner]

if that was the case she would have fluid somewhere - no way the air is getting in without break fluid getting out.

@SadRobot can you reach up and feel if there is fluid at the pedal connector at the firewall?

It's easier for air to leak than fluid -- could there be a small leak that doesn't really let fluid come out?

 

[SadRobot]

if that was the case she would have fluid somewhere - no way the air is getting in without break fluid getting out.

@SadRobot can you reach up and feel if there is fluid at the pedal connector at the firewall?

No fluid at the firewall on either side. The original master that was removed also has no indication of fluid leaking out anywhere.

 

[WJ43]

No fluid at the firewall on either side. The original master that was removed also has no indication of fluid leaking out anywhere.

maybe put the system under vacuum and slowly push the clutch - I don't know if you could damage anything by pushing the clutch under vacuum, but that would identify if the act of pushing the clutch is the source of the leak.

 

[SadRobot]

maybe put the system under vacuum and slowly push the clutch - I don't know if you could damage anything by pushing the clutch under vacuum, but that would identify if the act of pushing the clutch is the source of the leak.

From what I read you are not supposed to push the pedal when under vacuum. This is from the CFII bleed install instructions:

 

[BHank0688]

Yeah, I'm suspicious that the noise of the piston creaking in the bore of the cylinder is letting air into the system, a little at a time.

In my case, after the vehicle has been driven about 5+ miles and warmed up the noise starts. Maybe something (a seal?) swells and creates this sound. Maybe when this happens air does get drawn in just a little. I’ve wondered this but I’m not smart enough to be able to figure it out for sure, yet alone fix it lol.

 

[SadRobot]

Yeah, I'm suspicious that the noise of the piston creaking in the bore of the cylinder is letting air into the system, a little at a time.

I guess then my question would be why now? Why after 10k miles, and now that the cylinders are all new why is it happening when it was not happening for months after install?

 

[BHank0688]

Anyone wanting to vacuum bleed through the reservoir and can’t find anything laying around the garage that seems to seal right. I used this from Home Depot. Was around 3 bucks and after drilling a hole in the middle to fit one of my mityvac adapters it worked great.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-7-16-in-x-1-3-16-in-Black-Rubber-Hole-Plug-808288/204273792

 

[azwjowner]

I guess then my question would be why now? Why after 10k miles, and now that the cylinders are all new why is it happening when it was not happening for months after install?

The only explanation is the clutch is cursed. After 10k miles, my Jeep (OEM clutch, never touched) suddenly started having the intermittent metal rattling noise in 2nd and 3rd at 3000 RPM issue, then after a few weeks (and several different tanks of gas), it stopped.

 

[notthenewguy]

My factory clutched JL works just fine. Having said that it's not the best (nor worst for that matter) feeling clutch and forget letting out the clutch without giving it some gas, doubly so if you go to bigger tires without regearing. This ain't no TJ (6 speed Rubicon specifically(and for the record the TJR is defintely one of the greatest Jeeps ever made)) where you can let out the clutch in 2nd gear and be rolling without using any throttle. Or just start off in 2nd gear in day to day driving period. The stock JL flywheel/clutch assembly has no noticable inertia to it.

I still prefer it to an auto though, I test drove a 2.0/auto first and then decided I wanted the 3.6/MT without a test drive. The 2.0/auto is souless.

as much as I am having issues with my ACT in terms of rough shifting, it does allow me to start in 2nd the way you describe in the TJ. That being said, still not 100% happy with is. Feel like I sacrificed smooth shifting for better pedal feel. I had no issues with my stick setup.

 

[notthenewguy]

I'm looking into maybe getting a TJ as a backup vehicle. I can't afford it now but maybe sometime later this year.

Yup. I’m looking into a TJ/LJ and possibly a manual 2000 era f250. Still gonna work at figuring out what’s up with this JL. Another forum meme bet recently posted about the SBC clutch so if that works out for them maybe I’ll consider it in the future.

 

[autotragic]

as much as I am having issues with my ACT in terms of rough shifting, it does allow me to start in 2nd the way you describe in the TJ. That being said, still not 100% happy with is. Feel like I sacrificed smooth shifting for better pedal feel. I had no issues with my stick setup.

Yeah that's good to know, that means the problem is really that god-awful dual mass flywheel nonsense.

 

[notthenewguy]

Yeah that's good to know, that means the problem is really that god-awful dual mass flywheel nonsense.

I never had any issues with my stock clutch. I actually prefer the way the jeep shifted before. I could just up shift into any gear no problem. The pedal was ridiculously light, however. I did get the hang of it but I would really have to let it slip on hills/my driveway. This new clutch definitely feels more like a proper clutch and the heavier flywheel is great with being able to creep at really low RPMs without stalling. I just need to get this dang jeep to shift like it used to and then I’ll shut up about it. I’m sure my wife is tired of listening to my ideas as to what might be wrong with my JL.

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