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M200 axle strength??

word302

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Anything can fail, and anything can be quickly broken if you’re trying. I’ve broken Dana 44 shafts (ford hp early 80’s axle) on 35’s in a relatively light XJ with 150hp and high gearing (4.10’s and the stock auto with crap 1st gear compared to the modern 8 speed) being abusive. I’ve wheeled on the stock JL axles and shafts for 3 years on 37-38’s. Same type of trails, massively heavier, exponentially more torque, but wheeling like I want the rig to survive. Being in a $50k+ rig helps, as body damage is to be avoided. That old xj I bought for $3,500 and had no problem pounding it through obstacles like a pinball. I’ll take multiple lines, use the throttle where I need in order to clear an obstacle, and even pull cable where need be knowing full well I’m pushing the limit of the stock axles. If you are bound up with a tire pinned under/between rocks, a 100-1 crawl ratio, and decide to spool the turbo and let it eat, don’t be surprised when it eats your axle shafts or gears.
BS, no way you can break 44s with 35s. Ask @kah.mun.rah /s
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word302

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Exactly! Finally a second dose of common sense. F'ing wheel it and if it breaks, learn from it and upgrade if needed. Some of these guys would have us believing we are taking our life in our own hands and risking damnation if we dare think of 37s on stock D44.
I also love when words like "majority" and "plenty" are thrown around which would indicate that said person has traveled the country far and wide and interviewed plenty of "off road clubs" to gather this vast data bank.
Not what I said or implied. I’m running 37s on the factory 44s. I just realize I’m at the limits and will upgrade accordingly. I’ve said it over and over again, depending on how you wheel you might be fine, you might not. I expect to replace my axles in the future so other than re-gearing I’m not spending money to beef up the 44s. When something breaks I’ll replace it.
 

nyglt56

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Not what I said or implied. I’m running 37s on the factory 44s. I just realize I’m at the limits and will upgrade accordingly. I’ve said it over and over again, depending on how you wheel you might be fine, you might not. I expect to replace my axles in the future so other than re-gearing I’m not spending money to beef up the 44s. When something breaks I’ll replace it.
I would argue the JLR44 is just right on 37s. It's a more than capable axle than people give it credit for honestly.

My wheeling bud runs JLR44s in his heavy LJ on 40s. RCVs and Reid Knuckles.

But I understand if people want to immediately jump to a larger axle for ease.



Jeep Wrangler JL M200 axle strength?? Screenshot_20220613-085439~2
 

grimmjeeper

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Exactly! Finally a second dose of common sense. F'ing wheel it and if it breaks, learn from it and upgrade if needed. Some of these guys would have us believing we are taking our life in our own hands and risking damnation if we dare think of 37s on stock D44.
I also love when words like "majority" and "plenty" are thrown around which would indicate that said person has traveled the country far and wide and interviewed plenty of "off road clubs" to gather this vast data bank.
I ran 35s on my JK Dana 30 with 4.56 gears, an elocker, a truss, and moly shafts for years on hard trails. And I added a 4 speed atlas with the 11.71:1 low range so huge torque running through it. According to some who think they know everything, that setup should have blown in the parking lot long before I got to the trail. But I never had a single problem with it.

Sure, bigger tires are hard on axles. And yes, aftermarket axles are stronger than Mopar. But if you build them right and don't beat the snot out of them, stock axles will hold up fine.

If you do beat your Jeep like a rented mule, you need stronger axles.
 

word302

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I would argue the JLR44 is just right on 37s. It's a more than capable axle than people give it credit for honestly.

My wheeling bud runs JLR44s in his heavy LJ on 40s. RCVs and Reid Knuckles.

But I understand if people want to immediately jump to a larger axle for ease.



Screenshot_20220613-085439~2.webp
40s are definitely asking for trouble, especially with beefed up axle shafts. 37s will be fine for most users here. My whole point was stuff breaks. There are steps you can take to mitigate risk but there’s no indestructible combo.
 

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word302

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I ran 35s on my JK Dana 30 with 4.56 gears, an elocker, a truss, and moly shafts for years on hard trails. And I added a 4 speed atlas with the 11.71:1 low range so huge torque running through it. According to some who think they know everything, that setup should have blown in the parking lot long before I got to the trail. But I never had a single problem with it.

Sure, bigger tires are hard on axles. And yes, aftermarket axles are stronger than Mopar. But if you build them right and don't beat the snot out of them, stock axles will hold up fine.

If you do beat your Jeep like a rented mule, you need stronger axles.
Some of you guys are so sensitive?
 

grimmjeeper

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word302

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You really are good for a laugh.
The funny thing is I never said you’d break a 44 with 37s. I said you could, but that sent everyone into a tizzy. Even the guy I originally quoted said he chipped his ring gear getting too aggressive. My roommate back in the day grenaded his locked Dana 30 with 31” tires in the rocks. Stuff breaks, there is a generally accepted “limit” for tire size with a given axle. That used to be 35s for the D44, now it’s 37s. I’ma firm believer in the “wheel it until it breaks, then upgrade” mantra. I’m just careful about telling people “they’ll be fine” with any axle/tire combo unless I’ve seen them drive and the terrain they typically run.
 

Odyssey USA

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I’m not a hardcore crawler and have only gone once on a trail that would be considered easy rock crawling.

With the M186 housing being stronger than a JK’s D30, I felt safe for my intended usage. I felt it was cheaper and more expeditious to just put RCV’s up front, get Apex Autolynx disconnects for more traction/better ride on washboard roads, and leave it open to keep another layer of protection. I didn’t want the bad skipping in 4wd on tight switchbacks. I’m also aware I likely moved the weak point to the pinion.

With the rear, I felt like the M200 was good to go for what I intended to use it for too. If a Toyota can make a lot of people happy with just a rear locker doing what I’ll do, I thought I’d give it a go with the Jeep. I added an electric actuated Ox locker. Speaking with a tech a Randy’s Worldwide, all I needed to upgrade to the Ox differential’s 32 spline differential was standard width M220 axles, that’s it, all else being the same. So I went with Yukon forged axle shafts but again, I’m aware I likely moved the weak point to the pinion. I don’t plan on hammering on it. I’ll pull line if I need to.

I’m currently running 4.56’s and 34’s but I plan to run 35’s.

Being around drag racing, torque can twist shafts. Most often though, it’s going from no traction to hooking that’ll grenade parts. It’ll be a judgement call for each individual in the circumstances they find themselves in. You might want to be more boring and pull line if there’s no bypass.
 
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kah.mun.rah

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BS, no way you can break 44s with 35s. Ask @kah.mun.rah /s
Please refer to my comment on page one of this thread.

Breaking/bending the axle housing depends on how hard or how fast you run into an obstacle (no matter the tire size).

Breaking/twisting an axle shaft comes from abruptly starting/stopping the spin of your wheel from 0 to fast or from fast to 0...by a heavy wheel with a 33" tire or a normal wheel with a 37" tire.

As long as you are crawling it more than sending it, not going balls to the walls down the trail, and keeping a light tire/wheel combo, you will be surprised at how strong the stock Sport JL axles are, even with a larger tire.
 
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c20040215

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Nice 180. Have you ever considered a career in politics?
Lol

That guy once said he never back track anything he said.

He has strong opinions on certain things and believes his way is always the best way and he knows it all from his 400 years of experience. I'm not surprised every thread he goes there will be an argument going.
I suggest don't waste your time. That is a guy says he never give teraflex a penny but said "Yes, I have the Metalcloak rear diff skid but I had to change out the RK track bar bracket for the Terraflex model". Either he got it for Christmas or he is straight up laying.
If you just do a quick fact check on his statements, there are holes everywhere.
 

word302

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Lol

That guy once said he never back track anything he said.

He has strong opinions on certain things and believes his way is always the best way and he knows it all from his 400 years of experience. I'm not surprised every thread he goes there will be an argument going.
I suggest don't waste your time. That is a guy says he never give teraflex a penny but said "Yes, I have the Metalcloak rear diff skid but I had to change out the RK track bar bracket for the Terraflex model". Either he got it for Christmas or he is straight up laying.
If you just do a quick fact check on his statements, there are holes everywhere.
Man, you’re doing some deep diving there. You must have a pretty serious infatuation with me. Sorry, I did in fact give TF money for something that was cheaper than I could design and make myself. You caught me.
 

kah.mun.rah

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Exhibit A
The funny thing is I never said you’d break a 44 with 37s.
Or did you?
37s on a 44 is pushing its limits. Plenty of people blow up differentials with that setup. Is it strong enough for everyone? Far from it.
You can easily blow up a Dana 44 with 35s.

Exhibit B
I’m just careful about telling people “they’ll be fine” with any axle/tire combo
You are careful about what?
37s will be fine for most users here.
I’m running 37s on the factory 44s.
no way you can break 44s with 35s.
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