Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

[WannFly]

If you have a longer torx driver, you don’t need to remove the cap. Like this:

I do have a longer torx, but the cap is already out. I needed some space there anyway, broke the breather tube, so need to fix that. the more space I can get there, the better to move the wire around.

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[UncleArt]

I do have a longer torx, but the cap is already out. I needed some space there anyway, broke the breather tube, so need to fix that. the more space I can get there, the better to move the wire around.

Makes sense!

You may have already seen this: (I keep a link to it saved on my phone for reference).
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/torque-values-for-jeep-jl-wrangler.17791/

 

[chevymitchell]

Sweet. I will do the same. It bugs me when they give a range lol. I will just do 70 and call it good.

b/w got the lockers potted today, cleaned with acetone after 5 hours. Thanks again for helping a newbie out.

You’re very welcome, Sir.

 

[LukeDagny]

I finished mine today. Thanks chevymitchell for the original write-up. My rear sensor failed, but my front was still working. I bought the 5 sensor kit and potted all of them. Before potting, I measured resistance, and there was very little variation between the 5 sensors.

What I experienced;
1) The job is pretty straight forward, but I realized I'm getting a little long in the tooth to be rolling around on concrete floors. I worked slow and methodically. It took me about three hours for both. I also changed engine oil while I was on the ground.
2) My Jeep was at 40,000 miles, and the rear sensor light failed about 4,000 miles ago. The oil in both differentials looked and smelled like new.
3) I tried sensor #1 in the rear and it work, and sensor #2 worked in the front location. I didn't try any other sensors.
4) There are drain and fill plugs on both differential housings. I didn't discover the drain plugs until after I made a mess.
5) The skinny T20 torx drivers from Harbor Freight allowed removal of the screw without removing the bearing cap.

 

[chevymitchell]

I finished mine today. Thanks chevymitchell for the original write-up. My rear sensor failed, but my front was still working. I bought the 5 sensor kit and potted all of them. Before potting, I measured resistance, and there was very little variation between the 5 sensors.

What I experienced;
1) The job is pretty straight forward, but I realized I'm getting a little long in the tooth to be rolling around on concrete floors. I worked slow and methodically. It took me about three hours for both. I also changed engine oil while I was on the ground.
2) My Jeep was at 40,000 miles, and the rear sensor light failed about 4,000 miles ago. The oil in both differentials looked and smelled like new.
3) I tried sensor #1 in the rear and it work, and sensor #2 worked in the front location. I didn't try any other sensors.
4) There are drain and fill plugs on both differential housings. I didn't discover the drain plugs until after I made a mess.
5) The skinny T20 torx drivers from Harbor Freight allowed removal of the screw without removing the bearing cap.

You're welcome, man. Happy to help and I'm glad you go it up and running the way it should be.

 

[lashlee]

Does anyone know with the voltage should be on the two outside wires going to the locker sensor? My wife's JLUR is only showing 8v when the switch is pushed (hers has the service axle locker code).

 

[3TV]

Can't believe I discovered this thread so late! Thank you so much for the write-up.

A few question though:
1. Is this issue only limited to certain model year? Or it still a potential vulnerability in 2025?
2. My Jeep has been running for 35K - is it still worth potting it? Or this should be done when it's new (or that part is new).

I only read the first 10 pages and last 5 pages of this thread, so if this has already been covered, I apologize. In answer to your question ym0bc1, the sensors on my 2025 JLR do not look like there is anything to be potted. It appears to have already been done. Here are some pictures of the front diff locker sensor on my 2025.

 

[chevymitchell]

I only read the first 10 pages and last 5 pages of this thread, so if this has already been covered, I apologize. In answer to your question ym0bc1, the sensors on my 2025 JLR do not look like there is anything to be potted. It appears to have already been done. Here are some pictures of the front diff locker sensor on my 2025.

Correct. This is the improved design and won’t need potted.

 

[ym0bc1]

Correct. This is the improved design and won’t need potted.

Any idea if buying and replacing the sensor would be easier? Economically worth it?

 

[chevymitchell]

Any idea if buying and replacing the sensor would be easier? Economically worth it?

The new sensor will not work with the legacy system, unfortunately.

 

[ym0bc1]

The new sensor will not work with the legacy system, unfortunately.

Last question - how much compound did you use? I got two Jeeps (4 sensors). Did you use half of the 20 ml?

 

[chevymitchell]

Last question - how much compound did you use? I got two Jeeps (4 sensors). Did you use half of the 20 ml?

You should have enough to do about 6 sensors. Just depends on how much you let run out for each one to purge them of air. You’ll be good to do 4, no problem.

 

[LukeDagny]

Last question - how much compound did you use? I got two Jeeps (4 sensors). Did you use half of the 20 ml?

I bought the 25ml potting syringe and potted 5 sensors and had a little left over. The syringe is the type that once you break the seal, you keep going. It will harden in nozzle.

 

[ym0bc1]

I recently read from a Chinese forum, that one of the reason of sensor going bad is the hall sensor inside got overheated and damaged. Someone took it off and replaced with a higher rated hall sensor and then potted the thing. Wondering if anyone got a bad diff sensor even after potting?(potentially due to high temperature in the diff)

 

[fczabala]

I recently read from a Chinese forum, that one of the reason of sensor going bad is the hall sensor inside got overheated and damaged. Someone took it off and replaced with a higher rated hall sensor and then potted the thing. Wondering if anyone got a bad diff sensor even after potting?(potentially due to high temperature in the diff)

maybe that’s what’s happening to me?

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/jeep-shows-axles-locked.135807/

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