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Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

SwissSteph

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Thanks again for this topic!

Thanks to the very clear explanations of the first message AND the video, I managed to make my back.

Although for the moment it's the front that is broken (my dealer is not motivated to do something, justice will take over!), I put the cable of Z_Automotive (on the front) and this removed the witnesses on my dashboard.

This morning, when I took off the rear, I already had some oil in it, I drilled the three holes, cleaned it with fein cleaner, put the seal on and reassembled it this morning. Not yet checked if it's good or not, normally I had no more lights on my dashboard. I hope my modification didn't make the situation worse when I cleaned the oil inside.

Anyway.

I noticed that with a simple "Torx T20" screwdriver it's possible to remove the screw from the part WITHOUT touching the "Cap bolt" (which is a plus for me, I had a lot of stress having to remove these two bolts)

As mentioned above by a member, I managed to clean 100% of the "pot" injector in my kitchen with hot tap water, perhaps this information could be useful to others.

img2.jpg
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SwissSteph

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[QUOTE = "bbq4133, message: 1322515, membre: 54439"]
Appréciez-le! La profondeur du matériau est-elle la même que celle du top cap transparent? On dirait également que vous remplissez toute cette zone avec du composé d'empotage là où il n'y avait rien auparavant?

Je suis absolument déroutant de savoir pourquoi FCA ne vendrait pas simplement un capteur sanglant. Imaginez les coûts qu'ils économiseraient!
[/CITATION]
J'ai per
Question:

Where exactly on the rear of the sensor are you drilling, for that "bottom" hole? Everything being black is fooling my eyes. I plan on doing this when I swap diff covers this winter.
I pierced mine yesterday, be careful as already explained here there is little room in depth.

I made my hole in this axis, if it can already help the time "Chevymitchell" redo photos ;)

1602465033444.jpg
 
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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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Thanks again for this topic!

Thanks to the very clear explanations of the first message AND the video, I managed to make my back.

Although for the moment it's the front that is broken (my dealer is not motivated to do something, justice will take over!), I put the cable of Z_Automotive (on the front) and this removed the witnesses on my dashboard.

This morning, when I took off the rear, I already had some oil in it, I drilled the three holes, cleaned it with fein cleaner, put the seal on and reassembled it this morning. Not yet checked if it's good or not, normally I had no more lights on my dashboard. I hope my modification didn't make the situation worse when I cleaned the oil inside.

Anyway.

I noticed that with a simple "Torx T20" screwdriver it's possible to remove the screw from the part WITHOUT touching the "Cap bolt" (which is a plus for me, I had a lot of stress having to remove these two bolts)

As mentioned above by a member, I managed to clean 100% of the "pot" injector in my kitchen with hot tap water, perhaps this information could be useful to others.

img2.jpg
You're very welcome. That sucks that the front is broken, but it sounds like you got the rear potted before it failed. Let's hope you saved it in time.

I agree the Torx is easy to get to without removing the cap bolt. I put that in there so people don't accidently strip the bolt taking it or putting it back in.

Thank you for the feedback!
 
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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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[QUOTE = "bbq4133, message: 1322515, membre: 54439"]
Appréciez-le! La profondeur du matériau est-elle la même que celle du top cap transparent? On dirait également que vous remplissez toute cette zone avec du composé d'empotage là où il n'y avait rien auparavant?

Je suis absolument déroutant de savoir pourquoi FCA ne vendrait pas simplement un capteur sanglant. Imaginez les coûts qu'ils économiseraient!
[/CITATION]
J'ai per


I pierced mine yesterday, be careful as already explained here there is little room in depth.

I made my hole in this axis, if it can already help the time "Chevymitchell" redo photos ;)

1602465033444.jpg
I don't think I need to redo the photo now. The picture you provide will work great. There really isn't a magically spot on the bottom. Just make sure to leave enough room for the injector and it'll work like a champ.
 

SwissSteph

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SwissSteph

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I did my test, as I was not sure if it was also broken at the back.
So, as explained, I removed the oil that was in the sensor (about 1/4, and I carried the sensor straight to my house to make sure that the oil was still too much in the top of the sensor), drilled and cleaned it well, then put the seal.

My seal (on the rear) is functional, because I don't have any indicator lights on the dashboard with the Z-Automotive cable put on the front.

Then I removed the Z-Automotive cable that I had put on the front and indeed I have the lights on. So it's the front that is broken and where I've been waiting for my dealer to repair it since the beginning of September 2020.

Let's say that thanks to this subject, the explanations and the video, I managed to save the rear sensor just barely, so thank you!

Once my front finally repaired by FCA, I will do the same job for safety and especially in anticipation of the very bad experience I have with my dealer, I will do everything to avoid going there, I have no confidence.
 

oceanblue2019

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$2 part failure causing a $2000 axle replacement.... The brainiac inside Dana who made this decision needs to be let go.
 

SwissSteph

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I hope that at Dana's there will really be big negative consequences.
Because because of their incompetence (how could I not imagine that the switch could be totally waterproof with electronics inside and high temperatures, plus hot oil), I'm in a great difficulty with my dealer (not very competent) and I had to take a lawyer to try to be heard :mad:
 
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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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I hope that at Dana's there will really be big negative consequences.
Because because of their incompetence (how could I not imagine that the switch could be totally waterproof with electronics inside and high temperatures, plus hot oil), I'm in a great difficulty with my dealer (not very competent) and I had to take a lawyer to try to be heard :mad:
I'm happy to hear this has helped you a little but and that really sucks about your dealership experience. It's an all too common theme, not just with Jeeps, but most auto makers. I hope they come through for you in the end.
 

SwissSteph

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Thank you, I'll be sure to give a little feedback if one day I have this repair done to my satisfaction (and with the help of my lawyer).
 

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Good evening everyone.

I took the time today to run through the potting of my locker sensors. This seems to be a very frustrating point of failure for all of us. I have experienced it myself.

Here are the DIY steps you can follow to properly pot the sensors.

**Keep in mind the amount of time required for the potting material to cure. Tacky at 3-5 hours. 24 hour full cure. Best to do both sensors at the same time when you can wait, at least, overnight.

Also, please understand that this is a temporary fix to an issue we all hope FCA is going to remedy. Hopefully there is, at a minimum, a part number for this sensor we can order through Dealers and Distributors**

Jeep JL TQ Specs: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/complete-torque-values-for-jeep-jl-wrangler/

Tools Required:
  • 1/4" Ratchet
  • 1/4" Drive T20 Bit
  • 3/8" Drive Ratchet
  • 3/8" Drive 10mm
  • 1/2" Drive Ratchet
  • 1/2" Drive 15mm
  • Drill
  • 3/32" Drill Bit
  • Flathead Screwdriver
  • Drain Pan
Parts Required:

These steps are the same for the Front and Rear Axles.
  • Using a 3/8" Drive ratchet, drain the diff fluid into your drain pan. Wait for the diff to finish draining. Clean the drain plug and apply teflon tape to the threads. Reinstall at this time.
Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 1602465033444

  • Using a 10mm socket, remove the diff cover bolts.
Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 1602465033444

  • Using a flathead (or finger tips), remove diff cover.
  • Remove the reusable diff gasket.
  • Using a 15mm socket, remove the R/H side Cap Bolts.
  • Remove Cap Bolts with alignment plate. Keep the bolts with the plate so they go back in the same spots they came out of.
Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 1602465033444

  • Using a T20 bit, remove the screw holding the Locker Sensor in place.
Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 1602465033444

  • Using a flathead (or fingers), disengage connector safety clip.
  • Remove Connector and Sensor.
Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 1602465033444

  • Wipe sensor off using a shop towel or microfiber cloth.
  • Mark sensor as shown in the picture with a sharpe.
Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 1602465033444

  • Using a 3/32" drill bit, drill 3 holes as shown in the pictures. Be VERY careful with this step as the PCB (Circuit Board) is located very close to the clear cap on the sensor. Drill at a very low speed, with light pressure. We need 3 holes for this work properly. One is used to inject potting compound into the top side of the PCB, one for the bottom side of the PCB, and one to let air escape as we are injecting potting compound. Without an air escape, there will be air pockets and this whole thing will be for nothing.
Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 1602465033444


Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 1602465033444

  • Inject potting compound as shown in the video. Once you inject the compound in the bottom hole, you will notice the air being pushed out first and then a rush of compound will come out when it's full.

  • Once the sensor is full, wipe the top side off with a shop towel.
  • Apply electrical tape over the two holes and set the sensor down on its top.
Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 1602465033444


  • Wipe off any excess potting compound and fill the void in the back of the sensor with more compound. Let sit for 3-5 hours. Once tacky, clean the sensor using Acetone so there isn't any left over potting material on the outside of the sensor once fully cured.
Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 1602465033444

  • Once cleaned, let sit for 24 hours. (At least 12 hours before reinstallation.)
Jeep Wrangler JL Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44 1602465033444

  • Once cured, install sensor in reverse order. (Use Dielectric Grease on the connector and Loctite on the T20 screw.)
  • Install alignment plate and R/H side Cap Bolts. Be sure to TQ to spec. The TQ specs are different front to rear.
  • Install Diff Cover.
  • Service Diff.
  • Test Locker System.
Great post, thank you. I plan to do this in the next few weeks. My question is why/where are you marking the sensor with a sharpie? I have looked and looked and don't see a mark in any of the pics; of course I could just be missing it.

And, is there no concern on reusing the diff cover gaskets? I know they are said to be reusable, but I am hesitant. Thanks again.
 
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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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Great post, thank you. I plan to do this in the next few weeks. My question is why/where are you marking the sensor with a sharpie? I have looked and looked and don't see a mark in any of the pics; of course I could just be missing it.

And, is there no concern on reusing the diff cover gaskets? I know they are said to be reusable, but I am hesitant. Thanks again.
There are 2 small black dots in the picture.

No issues at all reusing the factory gaskets. You’ll have no problems there
 

RockyMtJL

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Sorry if I missed this in the thread, but is this mainly caused during the install of new gears or are people experiencing this issue on stock gears?
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