Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

[chevymitchell]

So @chevymitchell and @roaniecowpony
The diff was opened again and the older sensor was put back in.
My buddy says the sensor works but the light does not go away.
Posting the video he made...So we are back to square one.
Also he added that the with the new sensor the light comes on immateriality and with the older sensor which has been cleaned and potted the light comes on after a few minutes.

The sensors only function is the light. So, if the light doesn’t go away, the sensor is not working.

You’ll need to order the 5 sensor Mopar Kit and replace it with one that works from that kit.

You can also take the sensor from the other axle and test with it if the other axle is working fine.

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[virkdoc]

So I take the sensor from the front and use it in the back? But how would we know that sensor will fit? I mean we have one old one and one new one. Both are not working.
So if it doesnt work with the front one also then just order the mopar sensor kit? Or should I just go with the bypass module that one of the companies sells?

 

[virkdoc]

One more thing....dont know if its related....I dont get the service axle locker message. Its just a jeep flashing.
Images I saw online shows "Service axle locker message"

 

[chevymitchell]

One more thing....dont know if its related....I dont get the service axle locker message. Its just a jeep flashing.
Images I saw online shows "Service axle locker message"

Flashing just means the module is reading the signal as “in-transit” and is not reporting a failure.

Replace the sensor with one from the 5-pack kit.

 

[mygreenkaw]

@chevymitchell

Question's for you, I ordered the 5-pack kit as I started having the rear light come on intermittently. I had potted both front and rear several years ago. I thought the rear would go bad though as it already had significant oil penetration .

Now the light is flashing constantly so it's time to replace. Any guidance yet on which sensor to start with in the 5-pack?

I haven't even opened the box, I assume the 5-pack is the same non-potted so they need potted as well?

Last item, I noticed comments in another thread about cleaning the connector that goes thru the diff housing. Assume I should pull it and clean that all up as well?

 

[chevymitchell]

@chevymitchell

Question's for you, I ordered the 5-pack kit as I started having the rear light come on intermittently. I had potted both front and rear several years ago. I thought the rear would go bad though as it already had significant oil penetration .

Now the light is flashing constantly so it's time to replace. Any guidance yet on which sensor to start with in the 5-pack?

I haven't even opened the box, I assume the 5-pack is the same non-potted so they need potted as well?

Last item, I noticed comments in another thread about cleaning the connector that goes thru the diff housing. Assume I should pull it and clean that all up as well?

The sensor shouldn’t fail after being potted unless it’s a true board level component failure, which is possible.

I’d just close my eyes and pick one. Haha. No real logic to the approach otherwise. Unfortunately, you’ll have to pot the replacements, as well. After you work out which one gets the light out.

I would inspect the bulkhead connector and even replace it if there’s any evidence of oil penetration with the pins.

 

[LukeDagny]

@chevymitchell

Question's for you, I ordered the 5-pack kit as I started having the rear light come on intermittently. I had potted both front and rear several years ago. I thought the rear would go bad though as it already had significant oil penetration .

Now the light is flashing constantly so it's time to replace. Any guidance yet on which sensor to start with in the 5-pack?

I haven't even opened the box, I assume the 5-pack is the same non-potted so they need potted as well?

Last item, I noticed comments in another thread about cleaning the connector that goes thru the diff housing. Assume I should pull it and clean that all up as well?

I bought the 5 pack and potted them all. I used a skinny round Torq driver from Harbor Freight to remove/install the sensor. I didn't have to remove a bearing cap. This method was posted earlier in this thread by somebody else.

With the differential cover off, I installed a sensor, I think #1, and turn on the ignition. The warning light was still on. I installed a different sensor, turned the ignition on, and the warning light was out.

I engaged/disengaged the locker to confirm the light went on, and turned off. It's been a while, but I may have started the engine to confirm proper operation. Either way, the differential cover was off, and I didn't move.

My questions and contributions to this thread are in posts 953 to about 988. If you read those couple of pages, along with the very first posts, I think all questions have been answered.

ChevyMitchell did a great job of figuring out this issue.

 

[ym0bc1]

FWIW, I completely gutted the sensor and removed the PCB. Connecting the Hall effect sensor directly to the connector wire. Working great and no worries on any of those flimsy electronics getting fried inside the sensor.

 

[hephaestus]

The potting compound linked in the OP is no longer readily available, so I'm posting links to what I am using:

https://a.co/d/0gtDXWwT
https://a.co/d/0i9KFUfP
https://a.co/d/0caS5Mwx

 

[chevymitchell]

The potting compound linked in the OP is no longer readily available, so I'm posting links to what I am using:

https://a.co/d/0gtDXWwT
https://a.co/d/0i9KFUfP
https://a.co/d/0caS5Mwx

The compound is still available. Just looks like Amazon’s link changed. I’ll update it with something else.

 

[hephaestus]

The compound is still available. Just looks like Amazon’s link changed. I’ll update it with something else.

The link worked, it's telling me the end of the month before it ships and I want it faster than that. I searched by the product name itself and nothing else was available faster unless it was in much larger, more expensive quantities that I don't need. What I linked will be here tomorrow and should work.

 

[JP52]

I used the stuff linked below a week ago because the compound specified in the original post had a long deliver time. The specs look the same as the original post.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F4ZLBBDG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

 

[chevymitchell]

The link worked, it's telling me the end of the month before it ships and I want it faster than that. I searched by the product name itself and nothing else was available faster unless it was in much larger, more expensive quantities that I don't need. What I linked will be here tomorrow and should work.

Ah, ok. They just took it off of Prime. It used to be overnight or 3 day.

 

[hephaestus]

I used the stuff linked below a week ago because the compound specified in the original post had a long deliver time. The specs look the same as the original post.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F4ZLBBDG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Dang, wish I would have seen that before I bought what I bought! It's still a few days longer wait though and, the way my schedule is working out, I'd rather have it tomorrow anyway.

I'm combining this with a regear at my work, so I have to slip it in between jobs. So scheduling is almost more important than the product.

 

[WillysMeow]

FWIW, I completely gutted the sensor and removed the PCB. Connecting the Hall effect sensor directly to the connector wire. Working great and no worries on any of those flimsy electronics getting fried inside the sensor.

Great idea, pictures before, during, after?

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