Locker Options for Sport

[ChattVol]

@Sean K. @Krondor @Flip888
Thanks for your locker insight on the previous axle thread. After researching your good thoughts and reading many locker related threads on other wrangler firums. I thought it would be helpful to have a separate thread for others also looking to add locker(s) to their non rubi and want best bang for the buck.

Like many on here, I didnt want to spend $40k+ on a rubi(should have in hindsight) and use my jlus 6 speed(d30 front & d35 rear) with open axles as a daily driver with vast majority of driving on road. I added takeoff rubi suspension/wheels/tires and have offroaded moderate trails about 6 times over 4 months to get a feel of capability without lockers. I've been unsuccessful on a couple climbs in 4 low due to 1 wheel spinning and no power going to wheel on ground. I stay away from mud and like rocky climbs, stream crossings, rutted trails and also drive in snow/ice on road once or twice a year. I daily commute up/down a mtn on pavement with a few tighter switchbacks(get down to 10mph) and dont want the lockers to engage going around turns on pavement when giving it gas.

The only lockers currently released for the jl seem to be ARB air lockers are $930/ea whicjrequire on-board air...which is out of my budget. I'd love to have selectable lockers if the price was reasonable. Alot of folks prefer front lockers only for daily drivers due to not being engaged in 2wd, but most say rear lockers offer better traction in most situations. Both front & rear is obviously preferred, but I dont want the jeep making noises when pulling into parking spaces or when driving on a road up a mtn around a sharp turn. Alot of folks like the powertrax no slip over aussie lockers due to being quieter. Thoughts/recommendations are greatly appreciated!

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[hansolowookie]

Be careful because the D30 carrier is an odd shape and not strong so not the best for the upgrade. Your drivetrain is only as strong as its weakest link.

 

[ChattVol]

Be careful because the D30 carrier is an odd shape and not strong so not the best for the upgrade. Your drivetrain is only as strong as its weakest link.

I've read where alot of folks on this forum say this(mainly rubi's owners), but have seen in other wrangler forums where a ton of folks with JK's and TJ's have had lunchbox lockers with zero issues with their d30 axles for many years. Supposedly, the new d30 and d35 axles on the jl are stronger...anybody know any specs on the strength improvements vs jk axles?

 

[ChattVol]

@rwperez How's your experience been with wrangler's and lunchbox lockers?

 

[ChattVol]

Aussies, powertrax no slip/lockright,(Detroit EZ locker...no longer made, but you might be able to source a used one), Spartan, etc. are all essentially the same. There shouldn't be any real noticeable difference in noise.

Thanks for your input. When going up swtchbacks on a paved mtn(slow down to 10mph) to make hairpin turns, would it you be constantly battling a lunchbox locker engaging and unengaging? If so, that would seem worth very annoyinh during a daily commute and not worth it. With the ARB lockers, I'm not crazy about the cost, having to have on board air and the compressor noise. Any news on when Eaton is going to release their e lockers for the jlus m180 and m200 axles? I imagine those will becawesome, but will be around $1k/ea + labor.(prob $3k ish total to e-lock both axles)

 

[WXman]

I've run the Aussie Locker, Lock-Rite, and Powertraxx lunchbox lockers on Jeeps. In my experience they all function the same but some are a little more finnicky to install. They can be very noisy also, and occasionally they'll jump a tooth in a sharp turn on the road and scare you. But for the money, they work well. I had pretty good luck with them.

Just make absolutely sure you follow the manufacturer's recommendation for fluid type. The unit won't work properly if you use certain axle fluids.

 

[ChattVol]

Are we talking switchbacks in 4wd? If so....not really unless the switchbacks are covered in boulders a foot or more in height. Now, it will make your turning radius bigger, which may mean you'll need to 3 point turn more often.

Based on your comment about daily commute, I'd guess you meant 2wd on pavement....in which case you wouldn't notice any difference.

Personally, I'm not a fan of Eaton's E-lockers. They had a lot of problems when first introduced several years ago. They have improved since, but I don't trust them still and if the actuator is still on the outside of the cover, it can be problematic in that location.

Yes...I'm talking about a daily commute on pavement in 2wd driving on switchbacks going up a mtn. I wouldnt want the rear end locking up driving on pavement in 2wd accelerating around a sharp turn going up a mtn.

 

[ChattVol]

I've run the Aussie Locker, Lock-Rite, and Powertraxx lunchbox lockers on Jeeps. In my experience they all function the same but some are a little more finnicky to install. They can be very noisy also, and occasionally they'll jump a tooth in a sharp turn on the road and scare you. But for the money, they work well. I had pretty good luck with them.

Just make absolutely sure you follow the manufacturer's recommendation for fluid type. The unit won't work properly if you use certain axle fluids.

Thanks for the feedback. Did you have front and rear lunchbox lockers while using your jeep as a daily driver? Or was it more of a wknd toy?

 

[rustyshakelford]

Keep checking the classifieds and CL. Buy some take out Rubi axles. Think I saw some brand new ones for 3k. That’ll give you a stronger set of axles, lockers and better gearing

Brett

 

[WXman]

Thanks for the feedback. Did you have front and rear lunchbox lockers while using your jeep as a daily driver? Or was it more of a wknd toy?

Daily driver and weekend wheeler. I never got the guts to run one in the front, so I did rear only. But my buddy ran one in the front and it seemed to work well. He said it didn't cause any really poor handling.

 

[ChattVol]

Daily driver and weekend wheeler. I never got the guts to run one in the front, so I did rear only. But my buddy ran one in the front and it seemed to work well. He said it didn't cause any really poor handling.

Thanks...which locker did you put in the rear and could you hear it driving on road?

 

[Shenanigans]

Thanks...which locker did you put in the rear and could you hear it driving on road?

I’ve been able to hear lock rights and Detroit’s on the road in previous yj’s. On road, the short wheelbase yj has a lot of wheel hop a lot under acceleration and deacceleration with the lock right in the rear. It would pop and bang like crazy. When it unlocked, half of the locker would slam against the carrier and it sounded like a u joint exploding. I also broke several sets of pins in the lunchbox rear locker. When I went to a Detroit rear, it had much better on road behavior with the occasional bang when unlocking. The next build I had arb’s front and rear. I much prefer a selectable locker front and rear for both on road and off road driving.

 

[ChattVol]

I’ve been able to hear lock rights and Detroit’s on the road in previous yj’s. On road, the short wheelbase yj has a lot of wheel hop a lot under acceleration and deacceleration with the lock right in the rear. It would pop and bang like crazy. When it unlocked, half of the locker would slam against the carrier and it sounded like a u joint exploding. I also broke several sets of pins in the lunchbox rear locker. When I went to a Detroit rear, it had much better on road behavior with the occasional bang when unlocking. The next build I had arb’s front and rear. I much prefer a selectable locker front and rear for both on road and off road driving.

I researched the Eaton True Trac and Detroit locker(neither are available for the jl yet)and watched several YouTube videos showing them offroad with JK's. True Track looks like a low maintenance more economical mod for daily drivers who want a unique version of limited slip/almost locker. It doesnt look as effective as a locker and requires feathering the brakes while giving it gas at times to slow a spinning wheel and apply more power to wheel with traction. Feathering the brake while giving some gas with a 6 speed sounds not ideal offroad and could result in stalling.

The Detroit locker could be a solution for the front and add true track in rear to not hear noises daily driving on roads. Regear to 4.10 or 4.56 at same time. I was quoted $300 per axle to add lockers and regear. Thoughts?

 

[rustyshakelford]

I researched the Eaton True Trac and Detroit locker(neither are available for the jl yet)and watched several YouTube videos showing them offroad with JK's. True Track looks like a low maintenance more economical mod for daily drivers who want a unique version of limited slip/almost locker. It doesnt look as effective as a locker and requires feathering the brakes while giving it gas at times to slow a spinning wheel and apply more power to wheel with traction. Feathering the brake while giving some gas with a 6 speed sounds not ideal offroad and could result in stalling.

The Detroit locker could be a solution for the front and add true track in rear to not hear noises daily driving on roads. Regear to 4.10 or 4.56 at same time. I was quoted $300 per axle to add lockers and regear. Thoughts?

The parts to regear my rubi to 5:13 are about 1k plus fluid. I think with your front axle atleast you might need a new carrier. Not 100%. So the gears will be 1k plus install so for you best case is $1600. While the diff is open you can do your lockers. I’d wait for a selectable to hit the market. Either Eaton or arb would be where I’m going. Best guess would be 2k for arb f/r. Installer will need some for install on that too. Add it all up with 400 for locker install would be about $4k. Now you are set up. Problem is you still have the weaker m186 axle that a locker and big meat are going to be brutal on.

The way I see it you have 3 options.

Wheel your sport and leave it alone.
Try to turn your sport into a Rubi but still always want the Rubi. Invest a lot with zero return at trade
Trade now, pay the piper and get what you want.

You can turn a Miata into a corvette level contender but is it really worth it in the end? There are guys that take a sport and completely rebuild them. 60s f/r atlas tc etc. for them they are building a purpose built machine that will be attractive to a particular clientele when they are ready to sell because it’s a bulletproof turn key solution. Unless you’re ready to go that deep, consider how much wheeling are you really doing and the level of trails you want to tackle

Brett

 

[ChattVol]

The parts to regear my rubi to 5:13 are about 1k plus fluid. I think with your front axle atleast you might need a new carrier. Not 100%. So the gears will be 1k plus install so for you best case is $1600. While the diff is open you can do your lockers. I’d wait for a selectable to hit the market. Either Eaton or arb would be where I’m going. Best guess would be 2k for arb f/r. Installer will need some for install on that too. Add it all up with 400 for locker install would be about $4k. Now you are set up. Problem is you still have the weaker m186 axle that a locker and big meat are going to be brutal on.

The way I see it you have 3 options.

Wheel your sport and leave it alone.
Try to turn your sport into a Rubi but still always want the Rubi. Invest a lot with zero return at trade
Trade now, pay the piper and get what you want.

You can turn a Miata into a corvette level contender but is it really worth it in the end? There are guys that take a sport and completely rebuild them. 60s f/r atlas tc etc. for them they are building a purpose built machine that will be attractive to a particular clientele when they are ready to sell because it’s a bulletproof turn key solution. Unless you’re ready to go that deep, consider how much wheeling are you really doing and the level of trails you want to tackle

Brett

Good points...you're better off buying takeoff jlur d44 axles for $3k ish with 4.10 gearing, lockers and bigger brakes/calipers. Prob cost $4k installed.

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