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jeepingib

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LOL not hardly. My "E" GY Duratrac's are 8 ply tread and 6 ply side wall. These are a true 8/6, NOT rated at 8/6, there is a difference. The difference is in the plys and how they are built. Some have thicker strands and they rate as a if it was an 8 ply, some are actually 8 plys or 6 as the case. Optimally you want an actual number of plys vs a rated ply.

8 ply vs RATED 8 ply true 4 ply. The big difference is puncture resistance. You have 8 plys to go thru vs 4 plys with bigger strands to = rated 8 ply.

Where you almost always see it is on cheaper tires...
But some of the lower range tires that are built for crawling, like the BFG Krawler that @Industrialwrench mentioned are built stronger using less ply. Also by having less ply, they are able to conform to the surface better and get more traction. There's always a flip side to the coin.
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Industrialwrench

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Take a piece of rubber as thick as you want. Let’s say 10” thick just for fun, bend it and place a razor blade against it and I promise it will cut just as easy as a piece of rubber that’s 1” thick. If the sharp rocks you’re crawling on are taller than 2” your E rating means very little. The drivers understanding of the terrain is what saves sidewalls.
 

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LOL not hardly. My "E" GY Duratrac's are 8 ply tread and 6 ply side wall. These are a true 8/6, NOT rated at 8/6, there is a difference. The difference is in the plys and how they are built. Some have thicker strands and they rate as a if it was an 8 ply, some are actually 8 plys or 6 as the case. Optimally you want an actual number of plys vs a rated ply.

8 ply vs RATED 8 ply true 4 ply. The big difference is puncture resistance. You have 8 plys to go thru vs 4 plys with bigger strands to = rated 8 ply.

Where you almost always see it is on cheaper tires...
Post a pic of the sidewalls that say 8 ply tread and 6 ply sidewalls. I have never seen a Duratrac that has that many true layers, most I've seen is 3 ply sidewall. The only tires that have that many layers are bias ply tires. There isn't a radial tire out there that I know of that has more than 3 plies in the sidewall.
 
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J0E

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It’s because C is closer rated for the weight of the vehicle. A rock that cuts through a C will probably cut right through an E too. BFG Krawlers only come in C, must be some weak stuff right?
You've obviously never raced off road. I blew four C rated tires going 50 MPH on a rocky road (over 18 months). Tire guy told me to switch to E, went faster for several years, never blew a tire. I've given up KoH, but I want better sidewall protection. My Jeep club has gone through 6+ Pat's in the last year, that's the wrong direction. I want 50% more sidewall plys.

Take a piece of rubber as thick as you want. Let’s say 10” thick just for fun, bend it and place a razor blade against it and I promise it will cut just as easy as a piece of rubber that’s 1” thick. If the sharp rocks you’re crawling on are taller than 2” your E rating means very little. The drivers understanding of the terrain is what saves sidewalls.
It's not rubber, for the tread it's steel. For the sidewall it's 3 vs 2 plys to cut through. I'm getting 33x12.5R17 E KO2's for my TJR. Those tires/wheels will go on my JLR for safety and dealer visits.

From TR

All-Terrain T/A KO2 tires feature a racing derived cut-, chip- and tear-resistant tread compound that delivers longer life (up to 2 times the previous generation tire's treadwear on gravel roads). The compound is molded into an aggressive, computer optimized, high-void all-terrain pattern with interlocking tread blocks, innovative siping and multiple loose object ejection features to combine off-road durability and traction with on-road handling and acceptable noise.

Jeep Wrangler JL KM3 37x12.5 Load Range C! {filename}
Upper shoulder Sidewall Armor features a tougher sidewall rubber compound that's twice as thick as its predecessor and a Serrated Shoulder Design that delivers additional traction by providing the clawing action necessary to develop traction and steering control in deep dirt, sand or on rock during "aired down" off-road driving.

The tire's internal structure includes twin steel belts reinforced with spirally wrapped nylon on top of BFGoodrich's TriGard, 3-ply polyester cord sidewall ply construction (2 plies for Load Range C tires) for strength and durability.

Single strand beads (a single strand of bead wire is continuously wrapped multiple times until the desired strength is provided) enhance the tire's fit to the wheel to improve uniformity and ride quality.
 

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I’m no expert but if you want tank, go further down the alphabet. My 2dr with some rock crawling and other off-roading I think is good to go with ‘C’s. If I was heavier or more serious about tire abuse then yeah maybe ‘E’s. Ride comfort is a factor as well for me. It’s all about priorities and compromises. Oh yeah weight is a factor for me as my JLR is a toad. Gotta concern myself with CGVW.
 

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You've obviously never raced off road. I blew four C rated tires going 50 MPH on a rocky road (over 18 months). Tire guy told me to switch to E, went faster for several years, never blew a tire. I've given up KoH, but I want better sidewall protection. My Jeep club has gone through 6+ Pat's in the last year, that's the wrong direction. I want 50% more sidewall plys.



It's not rubber, for the tread it's steel. For the sidewall it's 3 vs 2 plys to cut through. I'm getting 33x12.5R17 E KO2's for my TJR. Those tires/wheels will go on my JLR for safety and dealer visits.

From TR

All-Terrain T/A KO2 tires feature a racing derived cut-, chip- and tear-resistant tread compound that delivers longer life (up to 2 times the previous generation tire's treadwear on gravel roads). The compound is molded into an aggressive, computer optimized, high-void all-terrain pattern with interlocking tread blocks, innovative siping and multiple loose object ejection features to combine off-road durability and traction with on-road handling and acceptable noise.

Jeep Wrangler JL KM3 37x12.5 Load Range C! {filename}

Upper shoulder Sidewall Armor features a tougher sidewall rubber compound that's twice as thick as its predecessor and a Serrated Shoulder Design that delivers additional traction by providing the clawing action necessary to develop traction and steering control in deep dirt, sand or on rock during "aired down" off-road driving.

The tire's internal structure includes twin steel belts reinforced with spirally wrapped nylon on top of BFGoodrich's TriGard, 3-ply polyester cord sidewall ply construction (2 plies for Load Range C tires) for strength and durability.

Single strand beads (a single strand of bead wire is continuously wrapped multiple times until the desired strength is provided) enhance the tire's fit to the wheel to improve uniformity and ride quality.
Yeah, I thought we were talking about the side wall. Not the tread or the shoulder. Bummer your guys are ripping through the pats. If you’re desert racing then obviously you will be exerting higher forces on the sidewall because you’re not moving slowly and a stronger sidewall to handle the load makes sense. More inertia, more load. OHSA says my 195lbs generates over 5000lbs of force from just a 4’ fall. My 2door Jeep slowly rambling through the rocks shouldn’t need the extra load capacity. If your turning your wheel into a sharp rock and trying to use your sidewalk as a lever to climb it, there’s no amount of ply that will save you.
 

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Post a pic of the sidewalls that say 8 ply tread and 6 ply sidewalls. I have never seen a Duratrac that has that many true layers, most I've seen is 3 ply sidewall. The only tires that have that many layers are bias ply tires. There isn't a radial tire out there that I know of that has more than 3 plies in the sidewall.
YOU are correct and I stand corrected.

3 things, I did not have on my glasses and my tire was dirty and finally, the print was so small I could make it out so I guessed at, I apologize for my oversight.

Here are max magnified pics for your viewing.

Jeep Wrangler JL KM3 37x12.5 Load Range C! {filename}


Jeep Wrangler JL KM3 37x12.5 Load Range C! {filename}


Jeep Wrangler JL KM3 37x12.5 Load Range C! {filename}
 

J0E

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Yeah, I thought we were talking about the side wall. Not the tread or the shoulder. Bummer your guys are ripping through the pats. If you’re desert racing then obviously you will be exerting higher forces on the sidewall because you’re not moving slowly and a stronger sidewall to handle the load makes sense. More inertia, more load. OHSA says my 195lbs generates over 5000lbs of force from just a 4’ fall. My 2door Jeep slowly rambling through the rocks shouldn’t need the extra load capacity. If your turning your wheel into a sharp rock and trying to use your sidewalk as a lever to climb it, there’s no amount of ply that will save you.
If your turning your wheel into a sharp rock and trying to use your sidewalk as a lever to climb it, there’s no amount of ply that will save you.
You love the any failure to C will be a failure to E nonsense. 50% more plys adds no more strength, total nonsense.

It’s because C is closer rated for the weight of the vehicle. A rock that cuts through a C will probably cut right through an E too. BFG Krawlers only come in C, must be some weak stuff right?
A rock that cuts through a C will probably cut right through an E too.
You do love that nonsense. 50% more plys adds no more strength, total nonsense.

Lots of cuts through 1 ply of my C rated KO's. One cut through both plys, slow leak. 3 ply would have been fine.
 

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If your turning your wheel into a sharp rock and trying to use your sidewalk as a lever to climb it, there’s no amount of ply that will save you.
You love the any failure to C will be a failure to E nonsense. 50% more plys adds no more strength, total nonsense.



A rock that cuts through a C will probably cut right through an E too.
You do love that nonsense. 50% more plys adds no more strength, total nonsense.

Lots of cuts through 1 ply of my C rated KO's. One cut through both plys, slow leak. 3 ply would have been fine.
I sure do, because you know reality. Goes right back to my first post, I know it’s hard for you to understand. So one more time. If you encounter a rock that is razor sharp and you turn your sidewalk into it, your sidewall is gone. 1ply-20ply. Rubber cuts very easily when stressing it. Think about nicking a rubber brand that’s been stretched. Sure there’s a chance that a slightly thicker sidewalk will be thicker than the cutting edge depth. But that’s incredibly doubtful due to the simple fact a high ply isn’t that much thicker. Things like nylon cord or Kevlar will increase the strength, adding chip resistants(mixing clay into the compound). But let’s remember the load rating isn’t a direct correlation to sidewall “toughness” as much as its “strength” under load. But whatever. Enjoy driving your vehicle the way you think is best.
 

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J0E & Industrialwrench

I won't dispute anything you said. Given that I have seen that of which you speak. In 10 years of rock crawling from Tex to Cali and 12 or so trips to Moab, the Rubicon trail, and more. I saw many a tire end a trail run for many drivers due to sliced open and often it was not just one cut but shredded.


On one Slate trail I led everyone about 8 Jeeps all 8 of them sliced 1 tire and one guy sliced 3 so bad he took off all 5 tires and one the guys who had sliced his tire alos took him back to Phoenix, Discount Tire and bought 5 new ones.

However I did not slice a single tire and they were following exactly in ruts and they sliced and iced in fact we had to end the trail run, everyone had a spare on the ground. 37 BFG KM2s, 3-5 psi.

That said I suffered no slices at all, in fact in 10 years of rock crawling across the SW and Mexico I never experienced a sliced or cut tire.

Over the 10 years, I had 2 sets of GY MTRs 37s and about 6-8 sets of 37 BFG KM2s. I did change out. almost every year and I was beating them hard and 7> trails, I liked to run them both forward and backward. Discount Tire was HQ in Phoenix and I wheel with some of the higher-ups at HQ and I got GREAT pricing on my tires. When BFG come out Discount Tire called me and gave me set of them to try out and I fell in love with them, far superior to GY MTRs.

WHY? Dunno, but most of the folks that showed on my runs few had GY/BFG, they run other brands...maybe GY/BFG just make a superior product and maybe I just pick a better line, LOL.

Here I am on Rusty Nail in Moab, one of my fav trails, sadly it's closed due to the drop-off and folks rolling off the side of the trail? GY MTRs
Jeep Wrangler JL KM3 37x12.5 Load Range C! DSCN0552.JPG
 

J0E

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I sure do, because you know reality. Goes right b ack to my first post, I know it’s hard for you to understand. So one more time. If you encounter a rock that is razor sharp and you turn your sidewalk into it, your sidewall is gone. 1ply-20ply. Rubber cuts very easily when stressing it.Think about nicking a rubber brand that’s been stretched. Sure there’s a chance that a slightly thicker sidewalk will be thicker than the cutting edge depth. But that’s incredibly doubtful due to the simple fact a high ply isn’t that much thicker. Things like nylon cord or Kevlar will increase the strength, adding chip resistants(mixing clay into the compound). But let’s remember the load rating isn’t a direct correlation to sidewall “toughness” as much as its “strength” under load. But whatever. Enjoy driving your vehicle the way you think is best.
If you encounter a rock that is razor sharp and you turn your sidewalk into it, your sidewall is gone. 1ply-20ply. Rubber cuts very easily when stressing it.

Now I understand, you have zero experience crawling in the rocks. There are no rock that is razor sharp- none. Rocks abrade and tear the sidewall. It's not the rubber that stops the tear, it's the fibers in the ply. You have no experience so you've never seen the plys exposed from abrasion. The plys are not pure rubber. You don't wheel with a group that frequently penetrates the sidewalls of Pats where Nitto and E rated KO2's and KM3's are more common and prove far more robust.

Enjoy your mall crawling.
 
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Terpsmandan

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From the side it looks like a KO2, not a KM.
 

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If you encounter a rock that is razor sharp and you turn your sidewalk into it, your sidewall is gone. 1ply-20ply. Rubber cuts very easily when stressing it.

Now I understand, you have zero experience crawling in the rocks. There are no rock that is razor sharp- none. Rocks abrade and tear the sidewall. It's not the rubber that stops the tear, it's the fibers in the ply. You have no experience so you've never seen the plys exposed from abrasion. The plys are not pure rubber. You don't wheel with a group that frequently penetrates the sidewalls of Pats where Nitto and E rated KO2's and KM3's are more common and prove far more robust.

Enjoy your mall crawling.
You just proved my point dude. You don’t need Es unless you’re racing. Because you’re right, it’s doubtful you’re going to find that insanely sharp rock. But If you don’t believe they exist, then it’s your experience that’s lacking. I wheel my Jeep enough to know what works for me. You keep puffing out your chest elsewhere. Have fun in your bumpy ride.

“you don’t use the same tires as me. You must be a mall crawler”. -keyboard crusader.

Just realized you’re the auto is vastly better than stick guy. Lol. I’m f’n dying right now. We’re done. Peace and more power to ya.
 

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You just proved my point dude. You don’t need Es unless you’re racing. Because you’re right, it’s doubtful you’re going to find that insanely sharp rock. But If you don’t believe they exist, then it’s your experience that’s lacking. I wheel my Jeep enough to know what works for me. You keep puffing out your chest elsewhere. Have fun in your bumpy ride.

“you don’t use the same tires as me. You must be a mall crawler”. -keyboard crusader.

Just realized you’re the auto is vastly better than stick guy. Lol. I’m f’n dying right now. We’re done. Peace and more power to ya.
You just proved my point dude.
By pointing out dozens of abrasions and tears in sidewalls rock crawling? You've never seen sidewall damage?
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