Kill Switch Question

[MVOffroad]

I've decided to put a kill switch in my Wrangler JL. In doing some research I've settled on connecting it to the fuse box via fuel pump fuse since I don't want to cut the factory wiring and I'm putting on a hood lock to help prevent tampering. My method would be to remove the fuse, add a micro2 fuse socket connector, add a lead to a 20 amp inline fuse, route to 12V kill switch and then back to the fuse socket. I haven't done much electrical work so I have a few questions.

1. The fuel pump fuse is a micro 2 20 amp. Does my inline fuse need to be a micro 2 or can it be another size as long as it's still 20 amp?

2. What gauge of wiring is recommended?

3. Is there a better fuse to use than the fuel pump?

4. Any other tips?

Thanks

Sponsored

 

[nositting]

i’m interested in this as well

 

[Left Field]

I've decided to put a kill switch in my Wrangler JL. In doing some research I've settled on connecting it to the fuse box via fuel pump fuse since I don't want to cut the factory wiring and I'm putting on a hood lock to help prevent tampering. My method would be to remove the fuse, add a micro2 fuse socket connector, add a lead to a 20 amp inline fuse, route to 12V kill switch and then back to the fuse socket. I haven't done much electrical work so I have a few questions.

1. The fuel pump fuse is a micro 2 20 amp. Does my inline fuse need to be a micro 2 or can it be another size as long as it's still 20 amp?

2. What gauge of wiring is recommended?

3. Is there a better fuse to use than the fuel pump?

4. Any other tips?

Thanks

1) When I put in my kill switch I was unable to find an in-line micro fuse 'test' adapter that allows you to tap into and interrupt the circuit with a switch. A second issue was the height - there is very little clearance between the cover and the fuses. A physically larger fuse will be just fine as long as its still 20A.
If you can find a fuse adapter that fits this would be the most simple approach however.

2) I'd use #12 wire for the fuel pump. Although the current is not that high the voltage loss through the longer wire is much more significant on 12V wiring.

3) I put my kill circuit on the starter wire - the one that goes from the ECU to the start relay in the PDC. This is not the same as the starter solenoid which is much higher current. I lifted out the fuse block from the PDC and tapped into the wire on the backside. PM me if you'd like info on how to find the correct wire. This is very low current (less than 1 amp) and you can use #16 or #18 wire.

Putting a kill on the start button can be another option. It has the advantage that you don't sacrifice the ability to do a remote start. See this thread from the TRX forum. Same harness works for us:
https://www.ram-trx.com/threads/“plug-and-play”-anti-theft-kill-switch.10323/

4) To reduce the odds of the kill switch being found I used a low profile black rocker switch and painted the bracket black. Located it out of view but easy to reach.

I wanted the wiring to be extremely reliable. Hence no crimp connectors. Soldered connections with shrink tubing, all wiring routed along with the factory harnesses in the conduits along the fenders and across the firewall. Makes it safe from damage and essentially invisible.

LF

 

[MVOffroad]

1) When I put in my kill switch I was unable to find an in-line micro fuse 'test' adapter that allows you to tap into and interrupt the circuit with a switch. A second issue was the height - there is very little clearance between the cover and the fuses. A physically larger fuse will be just fine as long as its still 20A.
If you can find a fuse adapter that fits this would be the most simple approach however.

2) I'd use #12 wire for the fuel pump. Although the current is not that high the voltage loss through the longer wire is much more significant on 12V wiring.

3) I put my kill circuit on the starter wire - the one that goes from the ECU to the start relay in the PDC. This is not the same as the starter solenoid which is much higher current. I lifted out the fuse block from the PDC and tapped into the wire on the backside. PM me if you'd like info on how to find the correct wire. This is very low current (less than 1 amp) and you can use #16 or #18 wire.

Putting a kill on the start button can be another option. It has the advantage that you don't sacrifice the ability to do a remote start. See this thread from the TRX forum. Same harness works for us:
https://www.ram-trx.com/threads/“plug-and-play”-anti-theft-kill-switch.10323/

4) To reduce the odds of the kill switch being found I used a low profile black rocker switch and painted the bracket black. Located it out of view but easy to reach.

I wanted the wiring to be extremely reliable. Hence no crimp connectors. Soldered connections with shrink tubing, all wiring routed along with the factory harnesses in the conduits along the fenders and across the firewall. Makes it safe from damage and essentially invisible.

LF

Thanks for the response! I like the idea of using that TRX harness you shared since it seems more hidden than my method. Going to take me a minute to understand what I'm looking at haha.

 

[ACAPECE]

Thanks for the response! I like the idea of using that TRX harness you shared since it seems more hidden than my method. Going to take me a minute to understand what I'm looking at haha.

I like this idea as well. Hopefully they haven’t changed the harness for the push to start in 2024. The video details the dash removal, little more in depth than you need.

 

[Robertyoke]

You should not cut the hot wire to the pump! Cut and place a switch on the trigger wire for the fuel pump relay.

 

[KHR Racing]

Ravelco does 3 kill circuits….. not just one. Love this. I have it on 2 of my jeeps and one of my pick up trucks.

 

[JLeco2022]

i'd never put a cut off switch on anything thats needed to keep the vehicle running, that imo is a accident waiting to happen. plus you don't even need to do any of that to make a kill switch work. as for soldering vs crimping, there is reasons why most car wiring is crimped and not soldered. i will not debate here why that is.

 

[The Word]

https://www.ravelco.com/index.html

They claim not one car stolen in 47 years. A bit pricey but well worth it

Sponsored