Keep having to use Shifter override button

[Phantom01231]

Not trying to hijack your post, but is there some special procedure that needs to be followed when replacing a 12V battery?

I was wondering the same thing in regards to the 4xe. Thought maybe they did something wrong. But from what I have found you just replace it as normal. So only thing I can figure was they let a cable arc for what ever reason. (Probably a few times) and that killed those modules.

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[Phantom01231]

Do the lights on the shifter still come on and if so, do they change when you shift it manually? This sounds like it might be an issue with your BCM. I was one of the engineers that worked on the electronics for the shifter, and the solenoid to lock the shifter in park wouldn't fail without the EVIC displaying a "service shifter" message.

Yeah everything works as it should other than every now and then as I said mostly after it has sat for a bit I have to reach in and press the button to get it out of park.

 

[huntb]

Yeah everything works as it should other than every now and then as I said mostly after it has sat for a bit I have to reach in and press the button to get it out of park.

The shifter has two CAN bus channels. The main public bus that goes to the body control module (BCM) and a backup private bus that communicates directly with the transmission (TCM). This sounds like you might have an issue with the public CAN bus. I would take it to an auto parts store and have them scan for any active DTCs. Just because you don't have a CEL, doesn't mean that there aren't active DTCs.

 

[BigMaCro]

The shifter has two CAN bus channels. The main public bus that goes to the body control module (BCM) and a backup private bus that communicates directly with the transmission (TCM). This sounds like you might have an issue with the public CAN bus. I would take it to an auto parts store and have them scan for any active DTCs. Just because you don't have a CEL, doesn't mean that there aren't active DTCs.

How sweet is it, to get the engineer that designed the thing, in addition to a Mopar service tech, to help with troubleshooting? I love this community!

Thanks guys!

PS @alphawolff Yeah, in high school I learned about the coinflip scientists made deciding which to call positive & negative. They were trying different experiments to determine the charge of the free/flowing particles that we know as electrons now. Of course, even how you label which one is "positive" or "negative" is arbitrary. (FWIW, the chemists and the physicists took opposing stances) For most applications, it doesn't even matter where the electrons come from, because it's still a circuit. It's a common confusion that people think of "positive" wires as being "hot" and important, and so often disregard the "ground" connection as being less critical. But both are equally important, and in diagnosing circuits the "ground" connection is so often the problem due to electrolysis corroding the metals in a wet, salty environment outside a vehicle/trailer - and this is absolutely due to which way the electrons are flowing!

I disconnect the negative first, because if my wrench hits exposed metal of the body (except for the other post), there's no sparky-sparky. This is always my rule when working on various equipment

Thanks again guys, you rock!

 

[Phantom01231]

The shifter has two CAN bus channels. The main public bus that goes to the body control module (BCM) and a backup private bus that communicates directly with the transmission (TCM). This sounds like you might have an issue with the public CAN bus. I would take it to an auto parts store and have them scan for any active DTCs. Just because you don't have a CEL, doesn't mean that there aren't active DTCs.

It’s been scanned. I just went out and scanned it again and there are no codes that mine is seeing under any of the modules I have available. No point in taking it to the auto parts store. Lol I have a much better scanner than what my local store has. It will be back with the dealers tomorrow evening so shit let them figure it out.

…. Started writing this earlier and got side tracked. Jeep went all day and the shifter worked just fine

 

[Phantom01231]

Problem solved! Its the switch in the brake pedal.

 

[Vicrider]

Good job. I replaced mine but it didn't help. It's nice to hear when people come back and post what it was that solved there problem.

 

[Phantom01231]

Yeah I noticed if I jammed my foot into it, it would shift. Took it over to the dealer to get the items I was waiting on and the Recall taken care of. Told the tech and he replicated and swapped it out. Knew it had to be something stupid.

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