Keep having to use Shifter override button

[Phantom01231]

Ok so just picked up a 21 4ex Rubicon. Ok so the idiots at the dealership where I bought it decided to replace the 12v battery (Honda dealership) and fried the 4gang switch panel and some of the center button cluster under the radio. So they are working with jeep to get the parts in. Jeep is doing the repairs but the particular dealership are a bunch of donkey farts. Anyways she is still drive able and I have her until the parts come in. New issue came up with me having to over ride the shifter to get out of park. Only seems to do this when it has sit for a couple hours. Otherwise it works fine. Any ideas on the issue? Things to check?

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[BXFXJeep]

A lot more things might have been fried, the last thing you want is electrical problems, especially in the 4xe.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

Ok so just picked up a 21 4ex Rubicon. Ok so the idiots at the dealership where I bought it decided to replace the 12v battery (Honda dealership) and fried the 4gang switch panel and some of the center button cluster under the radio. So they are working with jeep to get the parts in. Jeep is doing the repairs but the particular dealership are a bunch of donkey farts. Anyways she is still drive able and I have her until the parts come in. New issue came up with me having to over ride the shifter to get out of park. Only seems to do this when it has sit for a couple hours. Otherwise it works fine. Any ideas on the issue? Things to check?

A lot more things might have been fried, the last thing you want is electrical problems, especially in the 4xe.

I wouldn't keep driving it if I were you. I would take it to the dealership, explain to them about their shifter issue, and tell them you need a loaner until they get it fixed.

If they don't have a loaner, I would leave it there anyways. Even if you got to use your insurance to get a rental. At a certain point they are going to start saying that the things that are showing up aren't their fault and it's your fault.

Sounds to me like they created a lemon right off the bat. I would make sure they fix everything before you take it home again.

Just curious how many miles do you drive everyday? Do you charge the 4XE each night?

 

[BigMaCro]

The shifter, aux switches, and center stack buttons are all connected to the CAN bus, like a computer network, that the different modules listen to. Shifting or pressing a button sends a message on CAN, that the transmission control module and powertrain control module then receive to do the required actions.

It's very likely that nothing is wrong with the switches themselves, but rather with the CAN bus cabling connections, or worst case, the computer modules.

I think it's also quite possible that the battery connections or fuses are loose. Press down hard on all the fuses next to the battery. Check that both the connections to both the battery terminal, and to the fastening to the 3-way terminal adapter are all good and tight.

It might also be a good idea to just disconnect the battery and reconnect is worthwhile to reset things. The computers sometimes get into a nasty confused state when there's power problems or disconnected battery.

 

[Vicrider]

I have a similar issue but on a 20 2litre turbo. If it's on cold mornings or having to sit for several hours won't come out of park. No warning lights or anything. Use the button under the boot to get it out of park. Once it's warm or had been driving it's fine. Strange.

 

[BigMaCro]

Take your glovebox out, and check these wire connections are tight. This is a CANbus hub, and might be a problem there. Image courtesy @fuelfox4949

 

[Phantom01231]

As far as the buttons the jeep dealership has already verified the bad switch panels and those parts are on the way. The selling dealership was very upfront about what happened and they are paying to get it all fixed. And on top I am getting a full warranty for a few thousand miles just in case. I’ve done quite a bit of business with these folks. And I’ve already spoke to them about the shifter issue. And they are gonna have them look at that as well. It’s just the jeep dealership they are using…. I’ve already talked with the advisor there for the account and lady is a giant B!$@4. Called and had a question and she screamed and fussed about the Honda dealership coming to get the vehicle when they were told two weeks ahead of time I needed the vehicle… or a loaner I could take out of state…. No loaner… the jeep is drivable…. Well then I’m taking the jeep. Donkey fart tried to tell me the parts were on back order…. Parts were not on back order. They have not been on back order for sometime as per Mopar and another dealership. They honestly just didn’t order the parts. Heffer then called the Honda dealership and told them I was having it towed in and that I didn’t want it!!!!

anyways the shifter issue popped up well after the fact on this trip. I was messing around earlier and I’m thinking it may just be button on the shifter knob. I was more of less wondering though if there was anything more or less just strictly something that could be causing it related to being a 4xe. This is JLU #2. For me. New to the 4xe setup though.

 

[alphawolff]

needs codes to provide any diagnosis

 

[Phantom01231]

needs codes to provide any diagnosis

No codes, messages, warning lights of any kind!

 

[SAJN]

Not trying to hijack your post, but is there some special procedure that needs to be followed when replacing a 12V battery?

 

[Phantom01231]

Not trying to hijack your post, but is there some special procedure that needs to be followed when replacing a 12V battery?

I was wondering the same thing in regards to the 4xe. Thought maybe they did something wrong. But from what I have found you just replace it as normal. So only thing I can figure was they let a cable arc for what ever reason. (Probably a few times) and that killed those modules.

 

[TrailMax]

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...e-before-replacing-12v-battery-on-4xe.138111/

 

[BigMaCro]

In the lockout/tagout philosophy would be to disable all energy sources so nobody gets hurt. The theory is that the IDCM charger, powered from the HV battery, could be charging the battery even with the ignition "off", so it could cause a big spark when you disconnect a battery terminal. Maybe it'd even keep running after disconnecting, as it would be powering itself with its own 12V output.

In practice, there are so many safety mechanisms preventing the above, that some don't worry about it. It's also not really a life safety issue, except that a spark could ignite gasoline vapors. Could fry some fuses or wires though...

@alphawolff says his procedure is to just do disconnect the negative, then positive, replace the battery, then reconnect positive then negative. He does it for a living, so....

Edit: FWIW, I don't pull the fuse, because it's a pain for me to remove my fuse box lid, due to my Rugged Ridge snorkel.

 

[huntb]

Do the lights on the shifter still come on and if so, do they change when you shift it manually? This sounds like it might be an issue with your BCM. I was one of the engineers that worked on the electronics for the shifter, and the solenoid to lock the shifter in park wouldn't fail without the EVIC displaying a "service shifter" message.

 

[alphawolff]

In the lockout/tagout philosophy would be to disable all energy sources so nobody gets hurt. The theory is that the IDCM charger, powered from the HV battery, could be charging the battery even with the ignition "off", so it could cause a big spark when you disconnect a battery terminal. Maybe it'd even keep running after disconnecting, as it would be powering itself with its own 12V output.

In practice, there are so many safety mechanisms preventing the above, that some don't worry about it. It's also not really a life safety issue, except that a spark could ignite gasoline vapors. Could fry some fuses or wires though...

@alphawolff says his procedure is to just do disconnect the negative, then positive, replace the battery, then reconnect positive then negative. He does it for a living, so....

Edit: FWIW, I don't pull the fuse, because it's a pain for me to remove my fuse box lid, due to my Rugged Ridge snorkel.

Electricity travels from negative TO positive. That's why we do it that way. A lot of people assume it goes from positive to negative due to coloring we gave the terminals. It was originally thought to be the opposite. Once the discrepancy was found we never bothered to change the symbols or coloring as it was already standardized. A lot of old-school mechanics would do positive first as they were told it was "hot", but that practice was always incorrect. In the grand scheme of thing it doesn't matter, but the reason we do it is because you can't short a ground to a ground, but you can short a positive to ground. This also reduces the chances of sparking overall in case of gases that might be present.

Removing a positive terminal would required to be covered least it might touch bare metal. If you remove the negative it doesn't matter what it touches, as it won't do anything. That's probably all you really need to think about.

Here's a good video covering the topic:

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