Jumperless Aux Battery Bypass

[sweet88gt]

Just went to the garage and noticed the dash board will not shut off so Im guessing Tazer issue I will need to address. The battery issue has been a problem before the Tazer but has been more problematic since install.

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[Mguy]

If you look at the terminals on an eTorque engine that doesn't have an aux battery, the N3 fuse isn't used and N1 is connected directly to N2 with a metal shunt, no fuse. No aux battery, no N3 fuse.

And this, I think, is the key to all the important questions for improving the fabulous dual battery system put in too many of our JL Jeeps. Here's my summary:

For those who wish to keep the system stock (or return it to stock on occasion), remember the N3 fuse will blow if the main battery positive clamp is removed and touches the chassis. The aux battery is the culprit if this happens. Importantly, you need to restore power to the N1 bus and its lower amp loads by moving the N3 cable to N4. The fit will not be totally secure so the high amp fuse block (two different parts are available) should be replaced.

For those who wish quick and easy improvement to the short life of their mismatched battery pair, disconnecting the aux battery negative and opening the circuit at F42 (Jebiruph's superb post #1) is the way to go. Return to stock is just as quick and easy. Don't forget about the main battery discharges during engine stops if you continue to use ESS. The N3 fuse won't blow if the main battery positive clamp is removed and grounded, but it needs to be good for power to get to N1.

Last, for those who wish to go further than the quick and easy mod and want to physically remove the aux battery, either connect the positive aux battery lug to the main battery positive post (redundant but a safe place for a hot lug), or take out all the aux battery cabling and install a power connection to the N1 bus. The eTorque method for power, a solid strap from N2 to N1, is great. Without a strap (not too difficult to make if you can find some thin copper), use a fat cable jumper, which could also go N1 to the main battery positive clamp. Using N3 for power works but introduces an unnecessary fuse. Regardless of which power connection, you will get the same, but no better, battery performance than with the aux negative/F42 disconnect.

I hope I've got it right, but surely there are enough watchful eyes to make corrections. Or maybe there's an end to this thread.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Noticed we are on page 42…?

:::::Pulls F42 fuse::::

Oh, it worked! This thread is now disconnected!

 

[THAW]

...but that didn't cross my radar because to my mind a good physical connection is always doable, even if the factory one proves difficult to work with...

That's where you went wrong. The wiring concepts were predicated on use and best placement of named factory wire connectors and attachment points for the express purpose of minimizing exposure after battery deletion.

Can we stop discussing thought processes?

 

[THAW]

Just went to the garage and noticed the dash board will not shut off so Im guessing Tazer issue I will need to address. The battery issue has been a problem before the Tazer but has been more problematic since install.

The Tazer reboot and 2 sleep cycles procedure generally fixes that issue.

 

[sweet88gt]

The Tazer reboot and 2 sleep cycles procedure generally fixes that issue.

Which is no problem to do but odd since the last changes were made back in Dec.
I almost think its a door issue. Like the jeep is thinking the door is ajar when in fact it is closed. Looking into that more later today.

 

[AndySpill]

That's where you went wrong. The wiring concepts were predicated on use and best placement of named factory wire connectors and attachment points for the express purpose of minimizing exposure after battery deletion.

Can we stop discussing thought processes?

I wrongly assumed the most obvious meaning of a "safe connection," in your absence of making clear your less obvious concern for the integrity of the cable job.

I instead went with the far more obvious meaning of safe in "can these two electrical contact points have electrical current run through them without reeking havoc, possibly destroying downstream appliances and components, blowing fuses (if you're lucky) and even melting wire or starting a fire because it pairs up (with so little impedance because it is the great physical connection you seek) two electrical contact points never meant to be connected together."

I would love to stop discussing thought processes. I'd much prefer you to make them clear when not the obvious meaning, and if you must find someone wrong, point at yourself. When you question the safety of connecting two electrical points already factory connected, people may question you like I did.

For me it's like you walking into a pet store and starting a conversation about barks, but privately meaning the stuff on trees and not saying so. I get reasonably confused.

 

[THAW]

I wrongly assumed the most obvious meaning of a "safe connection," in your absence of making clear your less obvious concern for the integrity of the cable job.

I instead went with the far more obvious meaning of safe in "can these two electrical contact points have electrical current run through them without reeking havoc, possibly destroying downstream appliances and components, blowing fuses (if you're lucky) and even melting wire or starting a fire because it pairs up (with so little impedance because it is the great physical connection you seek) two electrical contact points never meant to be connected together."

I would love to stop discussing thought processes. I'd much prefer you to make them clear when not the obvious meaning, and if you must find someone wrong, point at yourself. When you question the safety of connecting two electrical points already factory connected, people may question you like I did.

For me it's like you walking into a pet store and starting a conversation about barks, but privately meaning the stuff on trees and not saying so. I get reasonably confused.

There's nothing in your post related to Jeeps, and it's all nonsense.

I can't help you anymore.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

For anyone considering doing the Aux battery bypass, do carefully read all forum posts by @Jebiruph in regard to the bypass before you do it.

--->Any and all posts/diagrams, by Jerry/@Jebiruph, in regard to the JL's dual battery system.... you can trust/you can take to the bank so to speak.

----> Be very careful reading what I consider, knock off, pure crapola, aux battery bypass/ESS related posts on the forum as many/most, are riddled with misinformation.


--
Thanks solely, to fellow forum member @Jebiruph, who schooled me..... I believe I was undoubtedly the 1st to actually do the Aux battery bypass on a JL. Thanks again, Jerry!

Yes, I did the Aux bypass on 8/19/2018, 5 months after purchasing my 2018 JL....

Anyway, 6 yrs. plus since I did the bypass and well over 85,000 miles driven... and never any battery or ESS related issues for my JL.

 

[dayusmc]

Not sure if this is the right place to ask this question, but... Is it correct that the eTorque 3.6 motor jeeps do not have the small auxiliary battery under the main battery? I know they have the big 48v battery in the back.

 

[AndySpill]

There's nothing in your post related to Jeeps, and it's all nonsense.

I can't help you anymore.

Sure there is, anymore than if there wasn't, making yourself less obtuse will help you better convey all thoughts, Jeep or otherwise.

It was never about helping me Foster. It was about you writing posts that don't require others to be psychic to understand your intent, not calling them wrong when they don't, so as to be able to help others.

Walk into a John Deere store talking about Cranes Foster and others aren't wrong to assume you mean construction equipment. You're wrong if you don't specify in that context that you mean the living Crane that flies, if that was in fact what was on your mind.

 

[Terrymo]

Not sure if this is the right place to ask this question, but... Is it correct that the eTorque 3.6 motor jeeps do not have the small auxiliary battery under the main battery? I know they have the big 48v battery in the back.

You are correct

 

[dayusmc]

You are correct

Thank you. I thought I read that in this thread, but after 40 some pages I started to wonder if my brain just made that up ...

 

[Terrymo]

Thank you. I thought I read that in this thread, but after 40 some pages I started to wonder if my brain just made that up ...

Yes and sadly about 36 of those pages are people more interested in being “right” than actually helping anyone.

 

[dayusmc]

Unfortunately that is the case with most forums. It makes valuable information hard to find.
There is a wealth of knowledge of forums, I wish there was a way to take out all of the BS and leave the technical stuff. There is a general section so people with nothing better to do can comment and give their opinions when they are not asked for.
I believe there is a thread somewhere on how to completely remove the aux battery and wiring, I am just having a hard time finding it...

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