Jumperless Aux Battery Bypass

[ScotM]

The N-3 fuse was blown. Luckily I had a spare fuse array in the glove box. The jeep cranked right up without the jumper.

Thanks again for the assistance!

That’s funny, I keep a spare as well.

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[ScotM]

I just installed the 13 inch 2 AWG battery cable jumper for N3 to N1 after removing all the aux cables, relay and battery. No issues, no lights, everything works as it is supposed to. Thanks to all who have helped me over the last weeks, as I waited patiently for the correct length cable with 90 degree rings.

 

[Heimkehr]

That’s funny, I keep a spare as well.

The fuse array is one of the e-spares I do carry in the Jeep, along with a pair of CANBUS terminal blocks.

 

[Magnus Taterhawk]

Not trying to hijack but if I removed the Aux battery and pulled 42 fuse and now main battery (brand new AGM H7) is being drained could my alternator be going out?

 

[jludave]

could my alternator be going out?

Possibly.

How did you remove the aux battery?

 

[Magnus Taterhawk]

Possibly.

Possibly.

How did you remove the aux battery?

I removed the battery by removing front fender liner and dropping the box down. as i turned the battery to remove the Pos and Neg leads I touched the frame rail and "POW" big pop and blue light arch! (Scared the piss out of me).

 

[ScotM]

That was most likely your high capacity fuse array getting fried when you did that. You need to check those fuses. It’s in the fuse box at the end with the five or six cables attached to it. Disconnect your main battery, then remove all the cables. Slide a zip tie under the fuse array to lift it out, check with an ohm meter.

 

[WashingtonWetWheeler]

Hey guys,
I did the removal of the negative cable from the main that is coming from the aux (heat shrinked around it and tied away), and pulled F42 fuse in my 2021. I replaced the main factory battery with a new X2 AGM and I have "aux switches" unavailable pretty regularly. Any idea on the cause? ESS is eliminated also via Taser.

Thank you

 

[ScotM]

Hey guys,
I did the removal of the negative cable from the main that is coming from the aux (heat shrinked around it and tied away), and pulled F42 fuse in my 2021. I replaced the main factory battery with a new X2 AGM and I have "aux switches" unavailable pretty regularly. Any idea on the cause? ESS is eliminated also via Taser.

Thank you

I would load test the new battery first. There are other reasons that that particular error would show, maybe an alternator issue, or do you have a bunch of accessories that are by passing the IBS, as they can draw power that the battery management system is not aware of. But i digress,, simplest stuff fi, confirm new battery is good, reset the IBS, by disconnecting the battery for a couple of hours. Then try again to see if the error occurs

 

[WashingtonWetWheeler]

I would load test the new battery first. There are other reasons that that particular error would show, maybe an alternator issue, or do you have a bunch of accessories that are by passing the IBS, as they can draw power that the battery management system is not aware of. But i digress,, simplest stuff fi, confirm new battery is good, reset the IBS, by disconnecting the battery for a couple of hours. Then try again to see if the error occurs

Alternator is putting voltage at 14.0v+ when engine is running so that makes me think I have no issue there. I'm wondering about the battery too, might have to take it in to batteries+ and have it tested. No accessories other than my winch which should pull no load unless I'm using it.

 

[ScotM]

Alternator is putting voltage at 14.0v+ when engine is running so that makes me think I have no issue there. I'm wondering about the battery too, might have to take it in to batteries+ and have it tested. No accessories other than my winch which should pull no load unless I'm using it.

Then maybe just try and reset the IBS.

 

[WashingtonWetWheeler]

Then maybe just try and reset the IBS.

You are saying this is done by just pulling negative off the battery for a few hours?

 

[ScotM]

You are saying this is done by just pulling negative off the battery for a few hours?

Yes, it is the small rectangular piece of plastic connected to the negative terminal. Just disconnect the negative terminal and unplug the wire going to the IBS sensor for two hours, then plug the wire in, and reconnect the negative terminal

 

[Heimkehr]

You are saying this is done by just pulling negative off the battery for a few hours?

This document might provide a bit of additional intel.

 

[ScotM]

This document might provide a bit of additional intel.

I know the TSB says not to remove the wire connection, but I found that doing that reset the ISB. If you buy a new one, it has just been in a box, so I figured that’s the best way, and it worked for me

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