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jlewissystem

jlewissystem

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Installed both of the new front driveshafts: went with the Adams 1310. The factory angle of the front driveshaft (t-case side) was pretty great after the lifts. This definitely corrects that and should allow for full droop now. Cant wait to test that out!

For the install - i would HIGHLY recommend an impact driver and someone to help you put it in/out of 4H (to lock the front shaft). If you dont have someone, you're going to be doing a lot of burpees :) If you dont have an impact gun - you're gunna have a bad time! You will also need some extensions. I used about 16" of extensions and a swivel.

For the front bolts - it's (4) 15mm bolts. They come out rather easily.
The rear bolts - use a T50 and are in there REALLY good - factory used green locktite. Like i said - impact gun or you will be sweating.

After bolts are removed - shaft should fall out.

Next - remove the rear yoke nut - 1 1/4. I would get a deep socket. After nut is removed, use a chisel (or wood) and a hammer to tap out the yoke.

REINSTALL

Put black silicone on the nut and red locktite on the threads - re-install new yoke and nut - tighten to 166 ft/lbs.
Front bolts will tighten to 89 ft/lbs. - use red locktite. Rear bolts dont have torque specs - i just went tight as i could with red locktite.

New shafts look "very nice"
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jlewissystem

jlewissystem

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"Merry New Year, you filthy animal"(s). Guess this is the 1st update of the new year. That's 2 fantastic Xmas movie references in 1 statement.....if you dont know the two, get a better taste in movies :)

We had a great holiday and new year over this way - hope everyone else did too. We have some small updates and large updates......all from Xmas. Thanks Santa and @BbyGrlJJ ;)

My youngest (12) got me a Mojito flashlight - pretty sweet! I think they typically go on the rollbar, but i want a flashlight where i can grab it, if i'm driving, so went right about drivers east, to the left. Typically, my head doesnt hit it, but if i'm spotting my drivers tire, i do catch myself hitting it occasionally.
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Stocking stuffers were put in: some replacement/add-on rubber mats. Didnt use all of these, but a little accent in a few places looked good:
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Now for the good stuff!! :rock:
@BbyGrlJJ got me a Smittylbilt XRC9500 for Xmas, so put that on. This is my first winch, so i'm very excited. It came with steel cable, so i decided to replace that with a synthetic line.
Smittybilt Synthetic Line - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CG7QWE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mounting to the Artec bumper was relatively easy. You have to access the front bolts through the fog holes, so there is limited throw with a wrench. The rear bolts are easy, even with the sway disco skid. I chose to mount the control box on top and ran the wires behind the left side of the grille, nearly straight up, through the rubber piece by the airbox (cutting a slit for better fitment with that rubber piece) and right over to the battery terminals. It's pretty tight, but fits......(and that's what she said).

I decided on an Ultrahook and a rope guard. I was 50/50 on green or gray and went with green, knowing that it wasnt 100% match on Mojito, but what is :) I do like it - cant WAIT to use it. I did pre-tension the rope. I watched this vid and i so live on a slanted street, so was very easy. I also went with a Factor55 fairlead and a winch cover.
Ultrahook - https://factor55.com/product/new-ultrahook/
Rope Guard - https://factor55.com/product/ultrahook-rope-guard-new/
Fairlead (1inch) - https://factor55.com/product/hawse-fairleads/
Winch cover - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V9W7P61/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Now for the bigger portion! I bought @BbyGrlJJ AAL LEDs for Xmas and oddly enough, Santa brought some for me. :) Since you install these, you're really locked into new liners, so we went with Artec liners. We loved the look/design AND they match the front bumper. Along with that, we got the fender retention hardware from AAL. If you're replacing fenders or doing liners i HIGHLY SUGGEST you get either this hardware or new hardware. Having these is a HUGE difference than the OEM plastic tabs (which mostly break when you're removing them).

Now - this mod took a long time (especially on 2 Jeeps), but probably the most rewarding, when you look at the Jeep. It took me about 2-2.5hrs, per wheel. It was just a process. The 1st one took a while, just to figure it all out. The instructions could be better....more details, more steps, more pics. I will try to provide some info here, for anyone's consideration.

Liners - https://www.artecindustries.com/JL_Inner_Fenders_Vented
AAL LEDs(White) - https://americanadventurelab.com/product/jeep-jl-high-line-fender-brace-with-daytime-running-lights/
AAL Fender Hardware - https://americanadventurelab.com/product/jeep-jl-fender-retention-hardware/

So - the prep: it's been cold here in STL and i have to resort to painting in the house again. Getting so sick of this - lol. So, i converted the basement bathroom into our paint studio and hung to dry some fender pieces in the other part of our basement. I was able to ventilate pretty good, but there was a good amount of dust...ha. Thanks to @Roky for some painting and install tips! :fist bump: I used an aluminum primer and flat black. 2 coats each. Figured they would be easy to touch up, if we went with spray cans.

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For the install, i referenced the following links:
Someone else did an Artec liner install (@4LowPhoto is this you?) If so - thanks! - Artec Install Instructions - https://www.artecindustries.com/assets/images/Company/documents/JL5106_Installation_Instructions.pdf
Artec Rivnuts - AAL LED Install - AAL LED Tazer signal error fix -
Here's the process i used:
  • Remove the 10mm bolts in the OEM liner
  • Remove the Pushtabs from the liner
  • Pop/break the OEM rivets, from the liner
  • Remove OEM liner
  • Remove additional 10mm bolt in fender
  • Pop fender tabs off body, starting from the rear
  • Fender should pop off
  • Use a torx bit (forgot the size) to remove the side marker, OEM light (i have LEDs) and light bracket
  • Pop the tabs holding the light wire in (about 6)
  • Pull the light out (has double-sided tape holding it on)
  • Pull the inner fender off of the fender
  • Cut the tabs on the factory upper fender
  • Drill the fender holes to make wider for the rivnuts
  • Touch-up paint the drilled holes
  • Insert the rivnuts
  • Re-attach the upper fender
  • Install the AAL LED, wire routed behind the front body beam and ziptied, where necessary
  • Install the Artec liner bracket (front body mount)
  • Install the rear part of the Artec liner, using the short screw for the rear bottom hole
  • Hand-screw the front liner piece into place
  • Punch/mark the holes in the body
  • Remove front liner piece
  • Drill holes, touch-up paint holes and install liner rivnuts
  • Install front liner
  • Drill out AAL LED side screw (you want to do this - it add a lot of fender support)
  • Do the remaining 3 and realize that your weekend was just wrecked - lol, but a FANTASTIC result!:rock:
NOTES:
I used blue lock-tite on all screws.
For the AAL LED fender screw, i used 4 small washers, so the fender is not pulled in and "torqued". It sits nice and flush. In the future, i intend to replace that with a black screw.....it's the small details.
For the Artec screws:
I used long screws on the front body mount and the body rivnuts
Short screws for the "joining nuts" and the bottom rear

Fender retention hardware rivnuts installed:
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1 side done: Comparison
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Hers done, mine not :)
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We LOVE the front end exposure and look of the liners and LEDs - great vendors and products! Cant wait to take these things out!!! Anyone in the STL area, hit us up.

Oh yeah - we were able to remove our front MC bumpstops now, for some extra uptravel - WOOT!

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RubiJR

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Great explanations and links. Very much appreciated and I look forward to your thread and the evolution from stock to Awesome. I am learning and getting ideas so again very much appreciated
 
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jlewissystem

jlewissystem

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Great explanations and links. Very much appreciated and I look forward to your thread and the evolution from stock to Awesome. I am learning and getting ideas so again very much appreciated
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback. I both enjoy and hate the efforts sometimes, but that's how you know you love to mod/tinker...whatever you want to call it. I like being able to share ideas and processes, so that it's easier for others, even if the way i do it was "wrong" or harder. It helps improve for the next guy! :) Good luck on your build!
 

maxjlu

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OK Folks - ANOTHER good weekend! Lifted @BbyGrlJJ's Jeep, so that's 2 lifts under my belt - which is awesome, but i feel like i just climbed everest - LOL.

First - she wanted to paint the MC arms and track bars, so we did that. Here's some pics of how i did it.

Before:
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Wiped the outside rims clean:
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Used some fat Frog Tape:
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Applied the tape in a plus sign pattern:
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Pinched it in (like a nipple) :) to create some slack:
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Push down the edges and used an exacto knife to trim around the outside (doesnt have to be perfect):
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Used some blue paint tape to cover the exposed threads:
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All prepped:
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Used Rustoleum "Rebel Red", which dried nice - just like the factory Rubi red - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ol...oss-Sunrise-Red-Spray-Paint-7762830/100167186

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Forgot to take a pic of all dry, so here's a couple. I did get some wrinkling - not sure why. Thought i cleaned enough during prep. Oh well. It's all underneath and will get beat up. Easy to touch up though!
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Parts on and lifted! :) :rock::like: I also did Steersmarts draglink, with RED Griffin, SS Tie Drod & Nexus 2.2. If you catch my "forgetfulness", i forgot to do the endlinks. Will do all when we get it back from alignment.

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The Archangel cam out real nice! BOTH are looking great, in our opinion :) :rock:

Also - i "think" her's might sit a 1/2" higher....i assume it's due to less engine weight? 2.0 vs 3.6. HERS IS BIGGER! :punch::involve:
Looks amazing!
 

Donnie210

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What size wheels are on the Radio and AA?
What width tires did you go with?
 
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jlewissystem

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What size wheels are on the Radio and AA?
What width tires did you go with?
Here are the wheels:
Archangel - http://www.fueloffroad.com/wheel/11740/fuel-1-piece-wheels-zephyr-d632/?finishID=3593&lugs=5 PN#D63217907545

Radioactive - http://www.fueloffroad.com/wheel/11...ls-zephyr-beadlock-d101/?finishID=3594&lugs=5 PN# D10117907545

For tires - we went with the 37 Milestar Pats - 37X12.50R17LT PN#22050500 124Q

We love this combo, but we havent been able to fully flex yet. Hopefully soon. We've only gone out on a few EASY trails. Again, hoping to change that in the next couple weeks.
 

Donnie210

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Nice!
I'm looking at 18×9 wheels and 13.5 wide 37 tires. Do you know if that will rub? I have the Mopar 2" lift.
Or anyone on here have that setup or knowledge can answer.
 
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Nice!
I'm looking at 18×9 wheels and 13.5 wide 37 tires. Do you know if that will rub? I have the Mopar 2" lift.
Or anyone on here have that setup or knowledge can answer.
I'm not sure if that rubs or not. I know there's TONS of discussion like that on here though. Check around the forums and search. I'd think you can find that specific answer :)
 

4xnaz

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Dude! Awesome progress on both JLs!! You're going to absolutely love the AAL fender mod! So much added travel clearance and an amazing led light kit too boot!
 
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jlewissystem

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Went out on a small creek run today. A blast to get out, even though it wasnt a "trail". Learned some flex points, but needed to test more flex up front. The rear was perfect: the MC 3.5, 37 Pats and 3 bumpstops. Might look to remove rear fender liner and remove additional bumpstops.
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jlewissystem

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We're "gearing up" for some trail runs this spring/summer. We plan to hit 3-4 Badge of Honor locations, which should be a blast! Got a few recovery items:

Viking Recovery Gear bag - https://www.quadratec.com/products/92144_4311.htm
Tree Saver & SnatchBlock - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1CKKFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Existing Soft shackles
Existing Tow Strap

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Our plan is to hit a few lower to medium trails this year, then beef up and head west. Full skids next year. For now, we put on the RockHard4x4 LCA skids.....waiting on Metalcloak FAD skids and diff skids to come in.

The RockHards seem beefy and mount up nicely. You might have to tweak/tug the axle to get the bolts to line up for you. It was a simple install, but not after SHOULDER DAY!

If you havent already, flip your rear lower shock bolts, so they face the tire. With the new skids (if you flip them) they will be protected nicely with the new skids.

BEFORE:
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AFTER:
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These should help bounce off of things :)
 

Thinman

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going to get a front diff protector before you wheel it too hard? that drain plug in the front is an issue
 

                           
























































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