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JL - Trailer Brake Controller

ZeroTrev

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Honestly I didn't think about stopping to eat, I was only thinking of home to camping spot. So thanks for that.
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Jungle31

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Lots of great solutions here. Thank you all. For what it's worth, I decided to try the Curt Echo wireless brake controller. It works extremely well. Plug and play on my JLU with tow package. Easily set up and adjusted from your phone. One 10 minute test drive and my rig was stopping well.

It is expensive at over $200, but by the time I got a pigtail, a typical brake controller, and took the time to install it, the difference was not important to me. Plus, I generally dislike boxes protruding into my knee/foot space.

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sheram

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Lots of great solutions here. Thank you all. For what it's worth, I decided to try the Curt Echo wireless brake controller. It works extremely well. Plug and play on my JLU with tow package. Easily set up and adjusted from your phone. One 10 minute test drive and my rig was stopping well.

It is expensive at over $200, but by the time I got a pigtail, a typical brake controller, and took the time to install it, the difference was not important to me. Plus, I generally dislike boxes protruding into my knee/foot space.

IMG_2169.jpg
You made the right decision. I’ve used one for two years without a
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av8or

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I have the curt as well and it works just like every other trailer brake controller I’ve ever had. Nothing to install, no wiring, can move to any vehicle, and can save multiple trailer profiles. What’s not to like?
 

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After the PITA installation of a Redarc Tow Pro on my last Jeep, I decided to try the Curt Echo on my new JT and it does work great! Stopped my 8.5x24' enclosed trailer with more power than the factory controller on my Ram. Very impressed...and NOTHING to install in the cab!
 

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ZeroTrev

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That's good to hear, I was thinking of the echo as well.
 

sheram

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That's good to hear, I was thinking of the echo as well.
I have no understanding of those who use wires controllers diodes expense and time that is avoided by using the Curt Echo
 

WXman

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I have no understanding of those who use wires controllers diodes expense and time that is avoided by using the Curt Echo
People used to avoid the Echo because initial reviews were not good. The Echo adds length and leverage against the 7-pin receptacle which can allow the Echo to fall out while driving. This has since been bandaged up by the inclusion of a rubber strap in the kit to secure the Echo to the door of the receptacle. Also, there were reports of brake surging when using the hazard flashers. And there were people concerned about having to use a cell phone to control the brake over-ride feature which is technically illegal in many states.

Mine didn't come with the rubber strap, so I had to contact Curt and wait a week to get one. Thankfully it arrived just before we left for our last off-road camping trip. I didn't use the hazard lights so I can't comment on any brake surging.

I only need a controller a handful of times each year, so the Echo is fine for my uses.
 

CRZYCDN

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I think it comes down to personal choices and weighing of whats safe in each person's mind (and whats legal if one chooses to obey)...so if you trust your phone and this device thats great...if one chooses "hard-wired" device ...thats great... many pro/con's either way.
 

SuperNerdEE

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I have read through this post and appreciate what everyone has stated. I purchased a redarc tow-pro elite and a 3073-P harness (the one WITH the diode). I plan to hook it up to my 2018 JLUR (has tow package) by splicing the 3073-P to match the redarc's connector, color for color.

That's all I have to do right? I'm just wanting to double check. Sifting through all of this was a journey and I want to come out clean on the other side. That and I want to make sure those instructions apply to 2018, not just 2019's and newer like a lot of ya'll who have done this and been successful.

Thank you in advance.
 

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sheram

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People used to avoid the Echo because initial reviews were not good. The Echo adds length and leverage against the 7-pin receptacle which can allow the Echo to fall out while driving. This has since been bandaged up by the inclusion of a rubber strap in the kit to secure the Echo to the door of the receptacle. Also, there were reports of brake surging when using the hazard flashers. And there were people concerned about having to use a cell phone to control the brake over-ride feature which is technically illegal in many states.

Mine didn't come with the rubber strap, so I had to contact Curt and wait a week to get one. Thankfully it arrived just before we left for our last off-road camping trip. I didn't use the hazard lights so I can't comment on any brake surging.

I only need a controller a handful of times each year, so the Echo is fine for my uses.
The current software has a switch for hazard lights most of the early bad reviews were from people who didn’t understand Bluetooth or how to use an app on their phone.
 

CNY-JLUS

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I have read through this post and appreciate what everyone has stated. I purchased a redarc tow-pro elite and a 3073-P harness (the one WITH the diode). I plan to hook it up to my 2018 JLUR (has tow package) by splicing the 3073-P to match the redarc's connector, color for color.

That's all I have to do right? I'm just wanting to double check. Sifting through all of this was a journey and I want to come out clean on the other side. That and I want to make sure those instructions apply to 2018, not just 2019's and newer like a lot of ya'll who have done this and been successful.

Thank you in advance.
Did you install it? If so, how did it go? I also have a 2018 with the factory tow package and am looking at this setup after reading all 16 pages.

I have the 6 speed manual. Are than any issues with this setup and manual transmissions?
 
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SuperNerdEE

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Did you install it? If so, how did it go? I also have a 2018 with the factory tow package and am looking at this setup after reading all 16 pages.

I have the 6 speed manual. Are than any issues with this setup and manual transmissions?
I did install it but I haven’t tried it with a trailer just yet. But the install went well and everything appears to function as it should.
I don’t see why manual calls auto would make a difference as it’s a brake controller. That said the redarc monitors acceleration/deceleration but i have no clue if say deceleration with downshifting would engage the controller. My guess would be no. Still I should think it’d work fine.
 

brewski

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I did install it but I haven’t tried it with a trailer just yet. But the install went well and everything appears to function as it should.
I don’t see why manual calls auto would make a difference as it’s a brake controller. That said the redarc monitors acceleration/deceleration but i have no clue if say deceleration with downshifting would engage the controller. My guess would be no. Still I should think it’d work fine.
Its an accelerometer and only applies brakes to the trailer when you hit the brakes. So if you're slowing down w/o brakes the redarc accelerometer would notice the slow down, but wouldn't do anything since you are not applying brakes. When you apply the brakes the accelerometer will proportion the voltage going to the trailer brakes by how much you are decelerating. The RedArc works very well. Auto puts it in automatic brake proportion, manual mode sets its sensitivity. When I had one (prior vehicle) I just left it on auto and on and offroad I was very pleased with it.
While I don't have any complaints about how the Mopar one functions, I wish I did RedArc again so I didnt' lose my 12v port. Plus I think the redarc worked a little better than the Mopar one, but not sure since I haven't tested both on the same vehicle.
 

modeler

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Also, there were reports of brake surging when using the hazard flashers.
So how is that happen. For all brake controller, it must you that you press brake so it start to work, bottom bottom line it cannot just start to brake when you are not intended to.
Echo is wireless system then it can only get signal from tail light, now hazardous light just means quick tap on brake to echo, Correct? It can only use software to detect hazardous light, like light is on and off but no deceleration means hazardous light on. But what is you happen to on uphill or engage engine brake, but not intend to brake.
maybe it is the reason brake surge while hazardous light is on, in that case it is a safety bug for echo.
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