Installed Mopar 68322798AA Front Lower Control Arms last week

[MtgGuy99]

Rookie here, have a 22 rubicon 4XE coming in soon and I have read that this mod is relatively cheap for a big improvement in steering/tracking. Would this part number be the same for the 4 door? Or are those different?

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[cbrenthus]

It's about a 15 minute job for a dealer w/ a lift and air tools, but if you don't have the time it is what it is
FWIW I'm not a fan of anyone working on my Jeep, I'm a cheapskate and low on trust.

I'm the same way, but I don't want to spend hundreds and a day of my time to replace the steering box, and while they are at it might as well have them replace the LCAs. This is the first time anyone else has touched my Jeep, and I'm having a tough time with the $200, I'll probably do the LCAs myself.

Rookie here, have a 22 rubicon 4XE coming in soon and I have read that this mod is relatively cheap for a big improvement in steering/tracking. Would this part number be the same for the 4 door? Or are those different?

Yes, same part number.

 

[rstoomanyhobbies]

My '23 Rubi is in the shop getting a new rear diff / axle assembly (little to no fluid from factory - full of metal) so I asked them to quote installing these LCA"s while there to save me the time. I have the new LCA's in the rear boot area. Reply " uh these are for the hybrid not your model, they are the same length as the ones you have now so they won't do you any good". Geeez, I'll just do it myself when I get it back (been 8days and they finished it up late today). ah dealerships......

 

[Mabar]

My '23 Rubi is in the shop getting a new rear diff / axle assembly (little to no fluid from factory - full of metal) so I asked them to quote installing these LCA"s while there to save me the time. I have the new LCA's in the rear boot area. Reply " uh these are for the hybrid not your model, they are the same length as the ones you have now so they won't do you any good". Geeez, I'll just do it myself when I get it back (been 8days and they finished it up late today). ah dealerships......

The Mopar part number is stamped on the control arm. Get under your Jeep with a flashlight and check the part number and see if is the same as the new arms.

 

[Cuyose]

I'm debating on doing them myself. My dealer wants $200 to install them (I already have the LCAs) while they do the steering box and damper. Seems very steep, but I moved last year and have a ton of projects I'm working on including finishing the kitchen, new floor, bookshelves, misc furniture to put together, build playground for kids, clean out garage once floor and furniture is done, and probably some more that I am forgetting.

In my opinion, $200 to remove and install and torque correctly once is a steal, that is if they do it correctly, which has been a scary gamble too much lately. It is a 15 - 20 minute job, if you have all the tools, and can torque correctly, but the tools to do all of that if you have nothing is more than $200

 

[andy29847]

I put my new control arms on 10 days ago. The job requires serious muscle. I judged that more than 190 ft/pounds was needed to get the nuts loose. I raised my Jeep up on ramps (2x12 2 layers thick) to get room for my long cheater bar. I have both a 1/2” breaker bar and a 1/2” ratchet. I found the ratchet was much easier to use. BTW, the bolt head is 21mm and the nut is 24mm. I removed the one side and fitted the new arm. It took a little tugging and pushing, but no straps or jacks. I put the bolts and nuts back in but didn’t tighten them. Then I did the second control arm. It was easy Peary. Nuts and bolts on arm 2 also went back in loose. Then I rolled out from under the car and bounced the front end a few times from the bumper. Theoretically, this allows the arms to take a natural stress free position. Then I tightened and torqued all the nuts and bolts. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft/pounds. I used all of that first, and then used my cheater bar to get a little more.

My Jeep was driving very good before the mod. It still is. I changed the control arms in anticipation of adding a spring spacer, Rockhard bumper, and a winch. While I couldn't tell any difference in how my Jeep drove, I did notice that women were looking at me differently. I locked the door just in case one of them tried to jump in the Jeep.

 

[Mabar]

My Jeep was driving very good before the mod. It still is. I changed the control arms in anticipation of adding a spring spacer, Rockhard bumper, and a winch. While I couldn't tell any difference in how my Jeep drove, I did notice that women were looking at me differently. I locked the door just in case one of them tried to jump in the Jeep.

Hilarious!!

 

[rstoomanyhobbies]

The Mopar part number is stamped on the control arm. Get under your Jeep with a flashlight and check the part number and see if is the same as the new arms.

Yes the new/longer ones are 68322798AA (and yes they do show for the 4XE online but....) and the Stock ones on mine are 68250242AB. All good, I'll enjoy swapping them

 

[Mabar]

Yes the new/longer ones are 68322798AA (and yes they do show for the 4XE online but....) and the Stock ones on mine are 68250242AB. All good, I'll enjoy swapping them

Try to find a 24" ratchet, breaker bar, like this one I got from Home Depot: internet #315742424, model #H12RATBB24.

I then got a 3 foot long, 3/4" black pipe to go over the breaker bar for even more leverage. I still had a hard time getting them tight enough.

 

[cbrenthus]

In my opinion, $200 to remove and install and torque correctly once is a steal, that is if they do it correctly, which has been a scary gamble too much lately. It is a 15 - 20 minute job, if you have all the tools, and can torque correctly, but the tools to do all of that if you have nothing is more than $200

I have the tools, but I also had my local guy quote me about $100 to do it. I ended up having the Ford dealer replace them though. They were very expensive, just over $60K to replace the LCAs, but for free they threw in new wheels, suspension, frame, engine, body, and interior

Now I need to post my LCAs for sale

 

[Mx5red]

I struggled like hell with a couple projects until I got this tekton 250ft-lb torque wrench ($72).
https://www.tekton.com/1-2-inch-drive-micrometer-torque-wrench-24340

Makes this stuff a lot easier, and not very expensive.

 

[Willys_Wonka]

I have a totally stock (except for a winch), 2021 JL, 2-door Rubicon. Production date is December, 2020 so it has the new, steel steering box. It has about 27,000 miles on it at this time.

Last week I Installed the Mopar 68322798AA Front Lower Control Arms. I originally ordered them from Quadratec, but after a couple of months of them being back ordered, and after many emails to Quadratec with NO response from them, I went to my local dealer and had them the next day.

Wow! What a difference these slightly longer (0.25 inch longer) control arms make! The Jeep wants to stay in a straight line much more, and it has MUCH less wandering. These longer arms made a HUGE difference in the steering and wandering.

This is my 5th, 2-door Wrangler since 2001. Two TJ's, 2 JK Rubicons, and this JL Rubicon, so I know how Wranglers drive and steer.

These longer control arms are a GREAT improvement in steering and wandering!

Did you need an alignment afterwards?

 

[Yawnie'sPapa]

Try to find a 24" ratchet, breaker bar, like this one I got from Home Depot: internet #315742424, model #H12RATBB24.

I then got a 3 foot long, 3/4" black pipe to go over the breaker bar for even more leverage. I still had a hard time getting them tight enough.

"tight enough" - does that mean the correct 103 pound/feet plus 145 degrees?

Not sure where the 190 comes from but the factory specs, if followed exactly, end up something north of the 190. I think the 190 comes from the lift kit instructions - because they are assuming no one knows how to do torque plus degrees, so they round it down a bit.

Did you need an alignment afterwards?

Nothing to align.
Control arms only change caster which on a setup like these, has no impact on anything else.
Can't set camber, and toe and steering wheel centering (toe split) aren't impacted by caster change (by control arm change)
With a stock Wrangler or Gladiator, all that anyone can "adjust" or "align" is the toe and steering wheel.

Don't forget - only torque suspension bolts such as control arms, track bars and so on when the vehicle is planted on the ground, standing on its own 4 feet, not while in the air with feet dangling down.

 

[Willys_Wonka]

"tight enough" - does that mean the correct 103 pound/feet plus 145 degrees?

Not sure where the 190 comes from but the factory specs, if followed exactly, end up something north of the 190. I think the 190 comes from the lift kit instructions - because they are assuming no one knows how to do torque plus degrees, so they round it down a bit.



Nothing to align.
Control arms only change caster which on a setup like these, has no impact on anything else.
Can't set camber, and toe and steering wheel centering (toe split) aren't impacted by caster change (by control arm change)
With a stock Wrangler or Gladiator, all that anyone can "adjust" or "align" is the toe and steering wheel.

Don't forget - only torque suspension bolts such as control arms, track bars and so on when the vehicle is planted on the ground, standing on its own 4 feet, not while in the air with feet dangling down.

Thanks, oh I’m not doing the service. I got a local Jeep shop that does my work, so it should be all correct. I’ve read 6-6.5 degrees is the goal after installing these LCA’s, correct? How is that also actually verified?

 

[rstoomanyhobbies]

An alignment check can verify the caster just not adjust it. There are YouTube videos on how to check it yourself - the axle point to measure and you can use an iPhone or other device to verify the angle.

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