I REALLY NEED SOME HELP

[mwilk012]

rubicons sit about 1.5" higher than a sport. so youre saying a mopar lift only lifts a rubicon by 1"? since it gives a sport 2.5" of lift.

keep in mind that he has Sport fenders which sit at least .5" lower than Rubicon fenders, if not more. so theyre hiding more of the gap than Rubi fenders would. making it appear like its sitting lower than it is.

Yea, none of that matters, at all. It’s a 2.5” nominal lift. Lift height varies by build weight obviously, that’s a topic for another thread. Regardless, the Mopar lift is 2.5. 4” on a JL is for absolute monster builds only.

Lift heights are typically based on the Rubicon trim but that isn’t always true.

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[Valpo Jeep]

Been a long time since I have driving a stick but I would not be concerned about the tach bounce like that. Gauges bounce when you drop like that. Does not mean that the engine RPMs actually bounced like that.

The question about it slipping can be solved by accelerating in a gear and listening to the engine. If the engine does not race off then the clutch is not slipping and no damage to the flywheel is being done.

If the clutch is solid then you have to either pony up for a clutch or wait for the dealer recall to be done. Read the fine print about being able to have it done at an indie shop and getting reimbursed or if they will only pay for a Jeep stealer to do the work.

 

[scj64]

When you say rpm’s bottom out; to me that means drop? Is that what you’re saying?

I haven’t read all the responses but leave your wheels and suspension alone and fix the actual problem. Sounds to me like you have a leak somewhere. Intake manifold possibly.​

 

[Apexcars]

A question that hasn’t been asked. Was it driving like that when you did the test drive or is it something that started later?

Also, 17,000 rpm seems a little high for idle on a 3.6. You might want to adjust that down by about 16,000 rpm. ?

 

[Upnarms]

Wow, skimming through the thread this is one of the most schizo bunch of replies I've seen in awhile. Let's see what we have so far....

Yelled at for YELLING in caps
sell the jeep
You are too poor
Return your jeep to stock
New clutch
New gears
Drive it different and don't race
Your lift isn't what you think

I probably missed some there. At least a few of you had something constructive to offer . I'm surprised the OP didn't just leave the forum, never to return.

Sorry you had to get a bunch of crap here.that shouldn't be how this works. Of course, I really don't have anything to offer on this either, other than my opinion on the replies. Best I can tell, the regear sounded like the best advice and have the clutch checked out.

Good luck with your jeep and don't sell it or spend money returning it to stock imho. A regear can be done for under 2k. You'll spend at least half that removing a lift and getting take off tires and rims so what's the point.

 

[Bptchris01]

Wow, skimming through the thread this is one of the most schizo bunch of replies I've seen in awhile. Let's see what we have so far....

Yelled at for YELLING in caps
sell the jeep
You are too poor
Return your jeep to stock
New clutch
New gears
Drive it different and don't race
Your lift isn't what you think

I probably missed some there. At least a few of you had something constructive to offer . I'm surprised the OP didn't just leave the forum, never to return.

Sorry you had to get a bunch of crap here.that shouldn't be how this works. Of course, I really don't have anything to offer on this either, other than my opinion on the replies. Best I can tell, the regear sounded like the best advice and have the clutch checked out.

Good luck with your jeep and don't sell it or spend money returning it to stock imho. A regear can be done for under 2k. You'll spend at least half that removing a lift and getting take off tires and rims so what's the point.

I just don't know what to do

 

[Vinman]

While I’m not 100% positive on the JL’s I know I’ve had GM products that would completely shut off the fuel flow while coasting in gear then the RPM’s would drip when the clutch pedal was depressed like you mentioned for a second until the fuel flow returned.
I guess the computer was programmed to do that in order to maximize fuel economy.

 

[azwjowner]

I just don't know what to do

Focus. First question, is your clutch OK?
Your video looks fine. When you've clutched in, the engine RPMs are decreasing because you're off the accelerator but still in gear, so the engine is not getting any gas and it's just slowly spinning down. As soon as you shift to neutral, the engine goes into "idle" (like when it sits at a stoplight) and the computer gives the engine gas again (without the accelerator being pressed), thus the spike in RPMs.

If you have no other symptoms, your clutch should be OK. You could check by driving around 1500 RPM in 4th or 5th on the highway and then flooring the gas pedal. If the RPMs shoot up quickly (out of proportion to the Jeep's speed), you have a bad clutch. If your vehicle slowly accelerates (there's not much torque at 1500) and then the RPMs increase as your speed slowly increases, your clutch is probably OK.

If you pass that, and I suspect you will, there's no need to spend money on a clutch or anything else. Full stop. There is no problem that needs fixing. Everything else is optional. A great optional upgrade would be to regear because with 35" tires and 3.45 gears, your Jeep is probably woefully sluggish. Many would regear to 4.56 or 4.88. (I'm about to regear my manual to 4.56 and I'm only on 32" tires.) But you don't have to if you don't mind how it drives.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

I just don't know what to do

New clutch and re-gear. Brand new Wranglers with 35s come from the factory with 4.56 gears for a reason. They also have automatics only.

Part of your problem is that Jeep didn't do a good job with the clutch from the beginning. Not your fault, but it is an issue that needs to be dealt with.

The other part is 3.45 gears with 35" tires. It's like trying to start pedaling on a bike with the chain on the big gear, it takes a lot of strain to get moving. With the manual trans, I suggest 4.88s for 35s.

The most likely reason for losing speed in 5th and not even being able to use 6th, is that the diff gears are just too high, You could also be glazing the clutch and flywheel just to get it moving, which will cause slipping in the higher gears while trying to accelerate or climb a grade.

Doing something the right way always involves a few extra steps. If you do those 2 things, you will love the way it drives and you will be glad you did so. To ignore those problems and continue to drive it as is will lead to dissatisfaction, frustration and more issues down the road.

You might as well start to also budget for new ball joints, an upgraded steering stabilizer and a maybe a truss for the front axle if you intend to do anything beyond moderate off road use.

I know it's not what you want to hear. You said it yourself in your first post, that you are poor. You're looking at around $3k to get these issues taken care of. There is no cheap fix here, or "hack". Remember what Jeep stands for,

Just
Empty
Every
Pocket

 

[azwjowner]

The most likely reason for losing speed in 5th and not even being able to use 6th, is that the diff gears are just too high, You could also be glazing the clutch and flywheel just to get it moving, which will cause slipping in the higher gears while trying to accelerate or climb a grade.

He should avoid anything higher than 4th gear until he regears (and I would definitely regear if it were me), but it's not a big deal. JK's had a 4.46 first gear ratio. We have 5.13. His stock gears with 35" tires still have a better 1st gear ratio than a JK did stock, so I doubt he's glazing the clutch getting moving.

I would save up for a regear, but there is no urgency. He can drive in gears 1-4 all day in the meantime.

 

[Deleted member 59498]

Nothing wrong with clutch and will be replaced by Jeep if there is. Wrangler with 3.45 even with stock tires is not good with the manual transmission.

 

[zouch]

@Bptchris01 :
the Mopar Performance lift is referred to by J**p themselves as being a "2-inch lift".
check this sample listing for it on their site: -> Mopar Lift
that said, that 2" is a nominal number, and even though they have specific lifts for different configurations, since different vehicles have different weights, we get different amounts of lift out of it.
for example, the lift for my Diesel Willys (which is basically an uptarded Sport trim) brought the front up over 4" and the rear up almost 3" initially, though it settled quite a bit afterward.
check the manufacturers link; regardless of what your dealer told you, there is no "Mopar 4" Lift". (note: lift from tires does not count.)

that said, you've received much good advice here already. i'd reinforce that the dip in RPMs when shifting shown in your vid is not unusual and not a problem.
i'd also encourage you to do the rolling acceleration test described here to see if your engine actually accelerates faster than the vehicle and if you actually have clutch slip; if you do, it should be obvious (and should have been on your test drive).
30K miles isn't a lot of miles, and while it would be possible for a particularly unskilled Previous Owner dork to mange to toast a clutch in 30K miles, i'd think it unlikely (even with J**ps crummy clutches).
then, check your differential gear ratio to find out what you've actually got in there and what you're really dealing with. i'll lay odds someone just popped bigger tires on there to make it "look cool" and didn't finish the job by re-gearing, so budget appropriately to address getting your gearing properly resolved.

personally, i'd also suggest that if you're going to jump into a forum by creating a thread with a title like I REALLY NEED SOME HELP, it only be because you're stuck or broken down somewhere and/or need a rescue.

sorry it sounds like you got in a little over your head on this knowledge and budget wise, but get it straightened out and you'll probably enjoy your vehicle.

 

[Bayrat]

Yes I need help. But if you think I'm rude because I typed in all caps then you need to rethink life in general. Sorry if i offended you

You're a guy looking for help, I

Yes I need help. But if you think I'm rude because I typed in all caps then you need to rethink life in general. Sorry if i offended you

You're a guy looking urgently for assistance with an unfamiliar used vehicle. You can check the gearing, simply mark the tire with chalk and rotate one turn while someone counts the shaft rotations. You'll figure out the ratio from there. Secondly, used JL tires and wheels show up constantly, both here and on Craig's list etc. Generally they are dirt cheap. Buy a set for now and that will solve your gearing issue (if that is what it turns out to be).

 

[Powelligator]

6-Spd w/4.88's and 35" tires checking in. First, when you start it up and the engine is cold for emissions reasons the ECU revs the engine to 2K RPM for a couple minutes until it gets warm and the normal idle speed of around 700 RPM kicks in. Annoying, but normal. I've always wondered if the automatics do this, I have no experience there...

Second, as others have said, your problem is with gears. If you are going to spend any money at all it should be to solve the high 3.45 gearing problem first. Personally I think the 4.88 gears are perfect with 35" tires, but I live at 6,000 feet elevation. 4.56's might be fine for sea level, but note, there really isn't any difference in price between 4.88 gears and 4.56 gears, so if you're planning on using the Jeep like The Good Lord has intended, 'wheeling in the mountains, go with the lower ratio (4.88) gears.

Third, while you're in there you might as well install a limited slip in the rear axle, even if it means eating Top Ramen for a couple more weeks. I was poor when I built my CJ-7, I've been there. The results were worth it. Good Luck, and tell us how it comes out. Ignore the haters and listen to Zouch, even though he doesn't know how to spell Jeep.

 

[AZ Hella]

Has the Jeep been calibrated for the 35" tires? Something no one has mentioned yet is that the manual transmission jeeps require a "re-learn" procedure when running a tire larger than 33'. For the relearn to take, you must accelerate to highway speed (40-80 MPH) and enter sixth gear while maintaining some accelerator pedal pressure (without decelerating) for about 30 seconds.

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