Alrighty then, I'll get it all put together, replace that, and see what we've got.The only other functional part is the Aux3 control relay.
I think I'm just not clearly explaining the issue I guess.Why would you replace it? Just switch it with aux 1, see if the problem follows the part. That’s the easiest testing that can be done.
Nice. Glad you got it done easy and cheap.I think I'm just not clearly explaining the issue I guess.
That said, I did what you said and narrowed the problem down to Aux 3. I've now actually fixed the problem as well; it was a simple blown fuse.
Just for the internet's knowledge, here's what I now realize I screwed up and what the solution was:
- I originally THOUGHT I wired the radio into the 10 amp ign/ acc line in the cab. I did not; the wire is similarly colored to Aux 3 and I accidentally spliced into that line.
- Because I thought it was that line, I replaced the ign/ acc fuses, and even Aux 1 fuses, but failed to do Aux 3.
- The fuse for Aux 3 was blown because I had both the radio (again, mistakenly) and the lights using Aux 3.
- Sounds crazy for a 15 amp fuse to blow on some ambers and a radio right? Well lo' and behold, I forgot that when I had originally wired up the lights a couple years ago that I replaced the factory fuse with a lower amperage 3 amp fuse to better protect the amber lights; it's no wonder the thing blew.
The whole thing is back together and everything works now.
I really appreciate your and everyone else's help. "Following the problem" was super helpful guidance.
Mahalo guys.
Sir, as am I-- LOL. Thanks again.Nice. Glad you got it done easy and cheap.
That's exactly what happened, but for reasons that were completely user-error. I hope this serves as a guide for some hapless schmuck in the future.What is the power draw of your amber lights? You may be overloading the circuit.
This was exactly my first thought given the wiring coloring between Aux3 and the Ignition lead in the footwell (being inverse coloring). From your initial description it seemed like you had connected the radio to the Aux3 lead in the footwell thinking you were connecting it to the ignition on lead; because you had the Aux3 lead already programmed to function as ignition on + remember state you got power when you first turned on the Jeep. The load from the radio + the LED light overloaded the 15A circuit.I think I'm just not clearly explaining the issue I guess.
That said, I did what you said and narrowed the problem down to Aux 3. I've now actually fixed the problem as well; it was a simple blown fuse.
Just for the internet's knowledge, here's what I now realize I screwed up and what the solution was:
- I originally THOUGHT I wired the radio into the 10 amp ign/ acc line in the cab. I did not; the wire is similarly colored to Aux 3 and I accidentally spliced into that line.
- Because I thought it was that line, I replaced the ign/ acc fuses, and even Aux 1 fuses, but failed to do Aux 3.
- The fuse for Aux 3 was blown because I had both the radio (again, mistakenly) and the lights using Aux 3.
- Sounds crazy for a 15 amp fuse to blow on some ambers and a radio right? Well lo' and behold, I forgot that when I had originally wired up the lights a couple years ago that I replaced the factory fuse with a lower amperage 3 amp fuse to better protect the amber lights; it's no wonder the thing blew.
The whole thing is back together and everything works now.
I really appreciate your and everyone else's help. "Following the problem" was super helpful guidance.
Mahalo guys.
You should have seen the look on my face when it "clicked" and I realized what happened.This was exactly my first thought given the wiring coloring between Aux3 and the Ignition lead in the footwell (being inverse coloring). From your initial description it seemed like you had connected the radio to the Aux3 lead in the footwell thinking you were connecting it to the ignition on lead; because you had the Aux3 lead already programmed to function as ignition on + remember state you got power when you first turned on the Jeep. The load from the radio + the LED light overloaded the 15A circuit.
From your following posts figured you either blew the fuse or it faulted closed and you overheated your ground wire on your LED.
Thankfully your past self kinda saved your current self some bigger headache by swapping that fuse to a 3Amp lol. Glad you got it sorted out. One suggestion for the future would be to get yourself a basic multimeter so you can test continuity between wiring so you can confirm which wire is which before wiring up equipment. Whats that old saying? something like a penny of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
On a tangential note, I've been waiting since taking delivery of my Wrangler in May for Midland to launch a new Micromobile lineup but they are taking their sweet time. I was wanting to get the MXT575 like you did, however, it is only low power and high power output and I've seen multiple people noting issues (noise/static/etc.) when communicating with others using something with a medium power range like the MXT275 while at a decent distance; where switching to a low power channel on both wouldn't be feasible.
I've seen multiple Midland reps hint at and/or accidentally slip up regarding some desired features on a refreshed Micromobile lineup. The two biggest of interest to me is supposed to be adding some mid-power channels at 15W and some form of addition of Bluetooth to the unit. Nothing has been clarified yet to my knowledge, however, contextually I think the intention is to add Bluetooth audio to the unit so that you can pair it to your head unit and use the speakers for the radio. If they still haven't announced something by next years CES in January I think I might just say screw it and get the MXT275 as a 15W radio would be plenty for me the vast majority of the time.
Glad you got it fixed.That said, I did what you said and narrowed the problem down to Aux 3. I've now actually fixed the problem as well; it was a simple blown fuse.
They can partially blow, I suppose.Glad you got it fixed.
But one thing still bothers me: how did the amber lights work at all if the fuse was blown?