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HELP! Aux wiring hiccup.

Vonroecker

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Good evening everyone,

Let me start off by saying that I'm a reasonably intelligent knucklehead; raised without a father, yet still grew into a man who learned to do a thing or two on his own. Still, a man without prior direction is a man kind of winging it (kind of boss, if you ask me). In simpleton terms, I really don't know what I'm doing-- at all (not boss).

Well, my latest project was wiring in a Midland 575 GMRS radio to my 2021 Rubicon (2 door, like a boss). This is a manual transmission (also, boss), so instead of finding clever ways to get through the firewall as I couldn't use the driver-side grommet, I opted to just wire the thing into the factory Aux harness that resides in the interior (yeah, got that option, like a boss). If you are unfamiliar, there are six cables, 4 Aux, and then 2 that are dedicated for a direct-to-battery and ignition accessory.

SO HERE IS THE PROBLEM:

As I mentioned earlier, I'm a knucklehead. I initially wired the radio into the 5th or 6th wire for ignition accessory (orange and pink, per the owner's manual). I'm well aware that this runs on a 10 amp fuse, but correct me if I'm wrong here, the max amp draw on this radio was 10 amps. I figured I'd give it a shot and see how it worked out, and if I kept blowing fuses I'd just go with an actual Aux port. Well, I didn't get very far-- I powered on the radio (again, at this point the radio is connected to the in-cab passenger accessory ignition wire) and it ran for about a minute, but then shut off.

There I sat in the garage, befuddled but also knowing I probably played with electronic fire.

I've now re-wired the radio to be on Aux 2, and it is working perfectly (annoying that I had to lose an Aux switch to this, but it is what it is).

HOWEVER, I already had some KC Hilights Flex 4's connected to Aux 1 and 3 (you need both if you want to run the ambers; specifically, I have the amber wired to Aux 3). They work great off of Aux 1 for their main function, but now Aux 3 isn't behaving so great. When that turns on (and if it helps, it was programmed to be set for ignition/ remember programming) they are coming on super-duper dim. As a matter of fact, the passenger side light is somewhat dimmer than the driver (these are mounted as floods above the winch).

I clearly fried something, but I can't figure out what it is. I've replaced all of the fuses for the Aux switches, and attempted to do the same for anything I thought could have used the ignition/ accessory circuitry (I definitely could have missed something). I have NOT done any in-line fuses for the accessories, nor have I replaced any relays.

Does anyone smarter than me have an idea of what I could have done? Your help is immeasurably appreciated.

TL;DR- I wired in a radio to the ignition accessory wire in the passenger footwell; it worked for a minute or so, then abruptly shut off. Now, something that was wired into Aux 3 isn't working like it did before and I can't figure it out.
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mwilk012

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Sounds like a poor ground connection, but also, you might check and make sure it is just a coincidence that aux3 is orange with pink stripe. Ignition on is pink with orange stripe.
 

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just breaking down, my interpenetration of what you said:
1) you wired some stuff and it didnt work
2) now your output on AUX3 appears to be incorrect (low luminance of lights)

Troubleshooting step1:
swap the line for AUX 1 and AUX3. Does condition follow?
 

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As mentioned in the owners manual, the Aux 1 & 2 switched circuits are 40-amp circuits. Aux 3 & 4 switched circuits are 15-amp circuits. The non-switched aux circuits are 10-amp circuits, one being a battery + (constant hot) circuit and one being ignition on/off circuit.

Make sure your radio and other accessories are using the factory chassis grounding points. Do not wire the ground to the battery.

My Midland MXT500 is putting out 49.7 watts will a draw of 8.65 amps and I'm sure your MXT575 won't be any different on the power draw if you're at the same RF output power level. This is a spare radio and not used in any of my vehicles.

On my 23 Wrangler Rubi, I have my Motorola XTL5000 Remote High-Powered UHF radio, Motorola XTL2500 Remote Mid-Powered VHF Highband Radio, and my Cobra 25 LTD Classic AM/FM CB Radio connected to Aux Circuit #1; one 30 LED & one 20 LED Rigid Light bars connected to Aux Circuit #2; two Rigid Ditch Lights with Side LEDs connected to Aux Circuit #3; eight Rock Lights connected to Aux Circuit #4; and a 65-Can Dometic AC/DC Refrigerator connected to the Battery + (constant hot) non-switched Aux Circuit. The Ignition on/off non-switched Aux Circuit is for future use.

My radios and refrigerator are connected to the aux wirings inside the vehicle and the lights to the aux circuits under the hood.

And I have zero problems.
 

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Good evening everyone,

Let me start off by saying that I'm a reasonably intelligent knucklehead; raised without a father, yet still grew into a man who learned to do a thing or two on his own. Still, a man without prior direction is a man kind of winging it (kind of boss, if you ask me). In simpleton terms, I really don't know what I'm doing-- at all (not boss).

Well, my latest project was wiring in a Midland 575 GMRS radio to my 2021 Rubicon (2 door, like a boss). This is a manual transmission (also, boss), so instead of finding clever ways to get through the firewall as I couldn't use the driver-side grommet, I opted to just wire the thing into the factory Aux harness that resides in the interior (yeah, got that option, like a boss). If you are unfamiliar, there are six cables, 4 Aux, and then 2 that are dedicated for a direct-to-battery and ignition accessory.

SO HERE IS THE PROBLEM:

As I mentioned earlier, I'm a knucklehead. I initially wired the radio into the 5th or 6th wire for ignition accessory (orange and pink, per the owner's manual). I'm well aware that this runs on a 10 amp fuse, but correct me if I'm wrong here, the max amp draw on this radio was 10 amps. I figured I'd give it a shot and see how it worked out, and if I kept blowing fuses I'd just go with an actual Aux port. Well, I didn't get very far-- I powered on the radio (again, at this point the radio is connected to the in-cab passenger accessory ignition wire) and it ran for about a minute, but then shut off.

There I sat in the garage, befuddled but also knowing I probably played with electronic fire.

I've now re-wired the radio to be on Aux 2, and it is working perfectly (annoying that I had to lose an Aux switch to this, but it is what it is).

HOWEVER, I already had some KC Hilights Flex 4's connected to Aux 1 and 3 (you need both if you want to run the ambers; specifically, I have the amber wired to Aux 3). They work great off of Aux 1 for their main function, but now Aux 3 isn't behaving so great. When that turns on (and if it helps, it was programmed to be set for ignition/ remember programming) they are coming on super-duper dim. As a matter of fact, the passenger side light is somewhat dimmer than the driver (these are mounted as floods above the winch).

I clearly fried something, but I can't figure out what it is. I've replaced all of the fuses for the Aux switches, and attempted to do the same for anything I thought could have used the ignition/ accessory circuitry (I definitely could have missed something). I have NOT done any in-line fuses for the accessories, nor have I replaced any relays.

Does anyone smarter than me have an idea of what I could have done? Your help is immeasurably appreciated.

TL;DR- I wired in a radio to the ignition accessory wire in the passenger footwell; it worked for a minute or so, then abruptly shut off. Now, something that was wired into Aux 3 isn't working like it did before and I can't figure it out.
Sounds like a poor ground connection, but also, you might check and make sure it is just a coincidence that aux3 is orange with pink stripe. Ignition on is pink with orange stripe.
What Milk said, sounds like you got a grounding issue.

Does your Midland radio not come with a 12 volt adapter plug? What does your power wires connection in the back of the radio look like?

Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003815


Pulled this screenshot off of the internet for what should be your radio...

Don't mind isn't plugged in full time, I have this connection point on my lesser Midland radio...

Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003818


Could always get something like one of these...

Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003820


That way you don't lose your cigarette lighter adapter plugs, in fact you end up with two extras at the end. Plus that plug in your dash functions as a ignition-on outlet. Every time you turn the vehicle on, the plug port turns on and so does your radio.

That's basically the setup I have in mind minus the three prong plug. I hide my radio in my glove compartment when I'm not using it so that it's not out in the open, but my setup just slides right in to the Mount I have in the passenger footwell, and then plugs into the auxiliary power outlet. I have all the wires either zip tied together to provide some level of organization...

Here's my setup. Maybe it'll give you some ideas.

Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003821


Your radio is probably too big to be putting in the glove box...

Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003823


Here's how I store my antenna cord when it's not in use. Just stuck the main plug through a wire loop hanging down from some factory harness...

Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003825


Even though everything's out in the open, it's all pretty neatly talked away so that nothing is going to get accidentally yanked and break stuff...

Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003828


Once I get my Wrangler a little more secure and locked down, I do plan on getting a three-plug outlet adapter port, and I'll be installing it in the circled area.


As for your situation, your best bet is going to be to double and triple check all of your wires and make sure you're not having a ground fault anywhere. If you don't already have one, it would be a good idea to invest in a voltmeter. You can get them pretty cheap, here's one from Amazon that's really inexpensive.

https://a.co/d/5qcGxdK

If you just look up on youtube, videos for how to find grounded wires with a voltmeter, it'll help you finding your problem quicker if it is a grounding issue.
 
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Vonroecker

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Sounds like a poor ground connection, but also, you might check and make sure it is just a coincidence that aux3 is orange with pink stripe. Ignition on is pink with orange stripe.
Well, I'm pretty sure I've got that right as the lights have been wired in and working perfectly for a couple of years (and everything else but the radio is wired in under the hood/ hasn't been touched).

It was ONLY after attempting to run the radio through the ignition accessory wire in the cab that the running lights connected to Aux 3 started to run funny. I don't know if it means anything, but the switch is set to be powered by ignition, not battery (I was wondering if that maybe had something to do with it).

What I'm thinking may have happened is that I over-drew the circuit when I connected the radio because I neglected to factor in the amp draw from the lights. I think the two together maybe put it over the 10 amps. Unfortunately, replacing F50 fuse did not solve the problem.

Does that change anything in your mind?
 
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Vonroecker

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As mentioned in the owners manual, the Aux 1 & 2 switched circuits are 40-amp circuits. Aux 3 & 4 switched circuits are 15-amp circuits. The non-switched aux circuits are 10-amp circuits, one being a battery + (constant hot) circuit and one being ignition on/off circuit.

Make sure your radio and other accessories are using the factory chassis grounding points. Do not wire the ground to the battery.

My Midland MXT500 is putting out 49.7 watts will a draw of 8.65 amps and I'm sure your MXT575 won't be any different on the power draw if you're at the same RF output power level. This is a spare radio and not used in any of my vehicles.

On my 23 Wrangler Rubi, I have my Motorola XTL5000 Remote High-Powered UHF radio, Motorola XTL2500 Remote Mid-Powered VHF Highband Radio, and my Cobra 25 LTD Classic AM/FM CB Radio connected to Aux Circuit #1; one 30 LED & one 20 LED Rigid Light bars connected to Aux Circuit #2; two Rigid Ditch Lights with Side LEDs connected to Aux Circuit #3; eight Rock Lights connected to Aux Circuit #4; and a 65-Can Dometic AC/DC Refrigerator connected to the Battery + (constant hot) non-switched Aux Circuit. The Ignition on/off non-switched Aux Circuit is for future use.

My radios and refrigerator are connected to the aux wirings inside the vehicle and the lights to the aux circuits under the hood.

And I have zero problems.
Well, I do have a winch and compressor that I connected to the battery. Neither of them are using Aux power; it is just a direct connection with manual shut-off switches.

Before the radio install everything worked fine. Again, I'm pretty sure I screwed something up along the ignition/ accessory circuitry.

That said, could having the one extra ground for the radio (done to a factory point on the body, near the floor of the passenger seat) screw up the other stuff that goes to battery? Could the whole thing mess other stuff up?
 
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Vonroecker

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just breaking down, my interpenetration of what you said:
1) you wired some stuff and it didnt work
2) now your output on AUX3 appears to be incorrect (low luminance of lights)

Troubleshooting step1:
swap the line for AUX 1 and AUX3. Does condition follow?
Well, that was a perfect summary.

I'd love your thoughts on this though: I never touched any wiring for Aux 1 and 3. I mean, I guess the harness under the passenger footwell, but all of the doodads and lights are connected under the hood (the radio is the only thing in the cab utilizing that harness).

It was only AFTER the ignition/ accessory wire attempt with the radio that I'm now noticing the lights are acting funny on Aux 3. This might be coincidence, but I do have that switch set to ignition on and not battery. Could that have been what overdrew ign/acc when I originally plugged the radio in? If so, wouldn't the problem likely be along that line?
 
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Vonroecker

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What Milk said, sounds like you got a grounding issue.

Does your Midland radio not come with a 12 volt adapter plug? What does your power wires connection in the back of the radio look like?

As for your situation, your best bet is going to be to double and triple check all of your wires and make sure you're not having a ground fault anywhere. If you don't already have one, it would be a good idea to invest in a voltmeter. You can get them pretty cheap, here's one from Amazon that's really inexpensive.

https://a.co/d/5qcGxdK

If you just look up on youtube, videos for how to find grounded wires with a voltmeter, it'll help you finding your problem quicker if it is a grounding issue.
I appreciate the insight.

Yes, I do not have a voltmeter. Off to Ace Hardware I go I guess. I appreciate the video link; I've never used one.

I'll get going on that and report back.

P.S. The MTX575 does not come with a 12 volt adapter plug. The factory instructions are to wire it direct to battery (this is the 50W version).
 

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What Milk said, sounds like you got a grounding issue.

Does your Midland radio not come with a 12 volt adapter plug? What does your power wires connection in the back of the radio look like?

1000003815.webp


Pulled this screenshot off of the internet for what should be your radio...

Don't mind isn't plugged in full time, I have this connection point on my lesser Midland radio...
The MXT575 does not come with the 12 volt cigar plug. Page 8 of the manual advises to direct wire it.

Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1728230288555-mm
 

mwilk012

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The 6 leads on the aux wiring options are completely independent of each other. Aux1-4 are powered by their own relays, ignition and constant are separate again from those. Odds are your lights have not been working correctly and you just hadn’t noticed until now. Troubleshoot the lights, not the radio.

A 50W radio shouldn’t pop a 10A fuse either.
 

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I appreciate the insight.

Yes, I do not have a voltmeter. Off to Ace Hardware I go I guess. I appreciate the video link; I've never used one.

I'll get going on that and report back.

P.S. The MTX575 does not come with a 12 volt adapter plug. The factory instructions are to wire it direct to battery (this is the 50W version).
If it's worth anything, your auxiliary plug should be able to handle that...

Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003840


You know I'm actually in my wife's Subaru right now, when I wired up the footwell floor lights, which came with a auxiliary plug, I just wired a auxiliary plug into one of the fuses. It's a little bit of a different install style for a completely different vehicle, but it does work pretty well.

I used a fuse tap on a powered empty fuse for a accessory that we don't use, and then wired a auxiliary plug to the fuse tap, and then plugged in the auxiliary male plug from the footwell lights into the newly installed auxiliary female plug.

Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003842
Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003841
Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003844
Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003845
Jeep Wrangler JL HELP! Aux wiring hiccup. 1000003846


It's hard to get a nice angle on it without pulling the whole thing down. I don't feel like breaking the zip ties today so I'm sure you get the idea. :rock:
 
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Vonroecker

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The 6 leads on the aux wiring options are completely independent of each other. Aux1-4 are powered by their own relays, ignition and constant are separate again from those. Odds are your lights have not been working correctly and you just hadn’t noticed until now. Troubleshoot the lights, not the radio.

A 50W radio shouldn’t pop a 10A fuse either.
Well, I wouldn't think so either, and replacing the fuse did not solve the problem when I had the radio on acc/ignition. So that's obviously not what went wrong. It just shut off and refused to do anything until I wired it to Aux 2 in cab. Works fine now.

Now, on the subject of the lights I'd tend to agree with you, however, I remember going around to the front of the vehicle while I was fiddling with everything and the seemed to be fine. I know for a fact that they were ~2 or 3 days ago because I stopped at a gas station and left her running.

It being a problem with the lights would be very coincidental.
 
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Vonroecker

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The 6 leads on the aux wiring options are completely independent of each other. Aux1-4 are powered by their own relays, ignition and constant are separate again from those. Odds are your lights have not been working correctly and you just hadn’t noticed until now. Troubleshoot the lights, not the radio.

A 50W radio shouldn’t pop a 10A fuse either.

Alright brother, so I took your advice and rewired (switched) Aux 1 and 3.

The problem is definitely somewhere along Aux 3; the amber lights worked fine on 1 but the full brights would not come on at all on 3.

I've triple-checked all grounds; everything is secure, all go to factory vehicle ground points (only the winch and compressor go directly to battery).

I also noticed the color of the Aux 3 wire. I'm reasonable positive I wired both the amber lights (under hood) AND the radio to the same line (mistakenly thinking I had the ignition/ accessory line).

Either way, I know the problem is along Aux 3. Any chance you could point me in the right direction there? I changed the fuse already.......

Thank you for your help and patience.
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