Where you agreed with his statement of 5” of lift required, I read that. Again, it clears with 2” of bump stop extension, ask me how I know? Just putting out real world correct information that I have verified myself.Maybe he read where I specifically stated that explicitly in post #7 of this thread?
The synergy kit, and it works with the metal cloak steering stabilizer bracket too.
Reading is easy, comprehending that it works great with 3.5" of lift seems harder than it should be for word302 for some reason? Here it is stuffed , absolute worst case scenario for potential interference, but some guy on the internet says it doesn't work.
Yes it “works”. You even said yours already hits with your setup. Gut those fenders and remove a bump stop spacer and you’re screwed.Reading is easy, comprehending that it works great with 3.5" of lift seems harder than it should be for word302 for some reason? Here it is stuffed , absolute worst case scenario for potential interference, but some guy on the internet says it doesn't work.
Replaced the fenders and went to 38’s, still had to trim the pinch seams front and rear with the spacer. How many JL’s do you see running 37’s or larger without a bump stop spacer? The XR comes with enough bump stop to run the drag link flipped. The idea that it’s lift height dependent shows a complete lack of suspension understanding. Your bump stops determine your maximum compression period. If I removed my bump stops I’d destroy my shocks, I’d need to trim all the way to the hood, AND the drag link would be into the frame. No 38’s don’t work at stock height, nor do drag link flips. Long travel shocks don’t work at stock height either, thanks for pointing out the obvious though. From rock krawlers recommendations for tire fitment with their 2.5” lift kit.
I used synergy for both ends of the rear track bar. Only reason I chose that brand was because it's the only one that didn't have a gusset/ubolt that extends further inboard on the axle tube. I planned on also adding the Metalcloak rear diff skid and knew that there would be ubolt interference between the two pieces. In hindsight, I would use a more cost efficient bracket and the nicer Next Venture diff skid.
I used synergy for both rear brackets. Their axle side one is the only choice that doesn't extend to the same spot on the axle tube that Metalcloak uses to attach their diff skid. Also, I used to have Synergys rear track bar and control arms, so was trying to be as uniform as possible.
Thanks. Teraflex is a similar design on the axle side in that it doesn’t use a U clamp and won’t obstruct the MC diff skid. I’ve got it too. I think I’ll forego the frame side for now.I used synergy for both rear brackets. Their axle side one is the only choice that doesn't extend to the same spot on the axle tube that Metalcloak uses to attach their diff skid. Also, I used to have Synergys rear track bar and control arms, so was trying to be as uniform as possible.
And yeah, strengthening the track bar frame attachment is very important in my opinion. After all, it's the sole anchoring point for keeping the axle assembly centered and holding dimension in relation to the frame/body.
I installed it for the piece of mind, the oem bracket is thin and weak. The pain train that Shawn is building is a buy back from insurance co from being in a wreck. The track bar bracket ripped open like a piece of paper…… I didn’t feel any added stability from it personally…… but I feel better that it’s on……
Has anyone ever told you that have a penchant for telling people things that make them spend more money than they wanted or intended to? You’re going to make someone a great trophy wife one day.
You suck. I just ordered $400 worth of brackets. ???I'm with word302 and Roky on this one.
Sticking to axle side track bar relocation brackets, have you tried the rear one? After beefing up all 8 control arms, both track bars, and steering linkages to support the lift and larger tires, I became interested in the idea of raising the rear roll center. I ended up installing both an axle side relocation and frame side reinforcement brackets. I pulled out of the driveway and didn't even make it past a few houses on my block before feeling the difference. The rear end felt more planted and there was a noticeable reduction in tail wag after bumps and dips on the road. As that first drive continued, I started noticing that the more solid and planted feel of the rear had a domino effect on the steering. The micro corrections to hold a straight line became even smaller and less frequently needed.
Since I did both brackets at the same time, it's hard to tell how to split the credit. All I know is that it was an all around improvement with my Jeep.
