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First Axle OC UOA Results

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CarbonSteel

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it will stay that clean forever now...
LOL - time and mileage will tell, but with these axles, I would not hold my breath!
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Here is the 20K UOA (15K on the oil). I dumped it this time and replaced it with more Amsoil 75W-140. The oil is now 35% more more acidic than the virgin TAN number and has thickened a bit more. Iron continues to trend down and I would guess that at 25K miles on the axle, it should be normalized.

@DanW @rockadile - here you go gents!

Enjoy!

Jeep Wrangler JL First Axle OC UOA Results 25Pu9a
 

2020Sport

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"The oil is now 35% more more acidic than the virgin TAN number and has thickened a bit more." Actually, it is less acidic and less viscous than the virgin oil.
 
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@rockadile @DanW - here is the latest UOA on the rear axle. I did change the fluid at 20K so this UOA is for 5K miles--these miles were long road trips and the average fluid temperature was right at 200°F. Nothing unusual noted and I will continue to monitor, but I remain surprised at the amount of iron these axles produce.

@chevymitchell - I also wonder if this is a major contributor to the ELD sensor failing (such high levels of iron in the oil). Granted the seals failing on the sensor are likely the primary reason, but with this amount of iron (particularly for the guys who have not changed it) a leak is almost guaranteed to produce a short. Thoughts?

Jeep Wrangler JL First Axle OC UOA Results KrXnP2
 

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@CarbonSteel So are these latest iron numbers more towards the normal range? I am approaching 15k and am considering one more change figuring my numbers would be dropping closer to what you saw around 15k.
 

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@rockadile @DanW - here is the latest UOA on the rear axle. I did change the fluid at 20K so this UOA is for 5K miles--these miles were long road trips and the average fluid temperature was right at 200°F. Nothing unusual noted and I will continue to monitor, but I remain surprised at the amount of iron these axles produce.

@chevymitchell - I also wonder if this is a major contributor to the ELD sensor failing (such high levels of iron in the oil). Granted the seals failing on the sensor are likely the primary reason, but with this amount of iron (particularly for the guys who have not changed it) a leak is almost guaranteed to produce a short. Thoughts?

KrXnP2.png
Yeah, a high iron count in the fluid will certainly contribute to the conductivity of the oil. Gear oil itself isn't really conductive to begin with when it's sitting static. Once the fluid is churned and oxidized a bit, that changes. I think, either way, especially in any kind of gearbox where two metallic components are meshing, if that sensor seal had failed, the sensor will fail. Hi or low iron count won't matter.

The only possible way to keep this from happening is to have your gears isotropic polished before install. This has been proven to beneficial in a lot of ways. I will be running my gear set through this process myself before install to keep things as cool and clean as possible.

https://www.detroitspeed.com/gearfx-service-rem-deburr-and-micro-polish-ring-pinion-gear-070151
 

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@CarbonSteel So are these latest iron numbers more towards the normal range? I am approaching 15k and am considering one more change figuring my numbers would be dropping closer to what you saw around 15k.
Truth be told, I am not sure. I would have expected the iron to have dropped in the sub-100PPM range per 5K miles by now, but this is my first experience with a Dana 44 Advantek. Ford axles (Dana 60, Ford 9.75, Ford 10.5) would have definitely reached that stage by now.

I am still learning as I go about these axles, but if we look at the overall trend it is going down, though the last UOA spiked up a bit. I attribute that to the load and operating temperatures during that time--long road trips fully loaded to Montana and Colorado.

Hope this helps!

Jeep Wrangler JL First Axle OC UOA Results Krerb9
 

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@rockadile @DanW - here is the latest UOA on the rear axle. I did change the fluid at 20K so this UOA is for 5K miles--these miles were long road trips and the average fluid temperature was right at 200°F. Nothing unusual noted and I will continue to monitor, but I remain surprised at the amount of iron these axles produce.

@chevymitchell - I also wonder if this is a major contributor to the ELD sensor failing (such high levels of iron in the oil). Granted the seals failing on the sensor are likely the primary reason, but with this amount of iron (particularly for the guys who have not changed it) a leak is almost guaranteed to produce a short. Thoughts?

KrXnP2.png
Thanks! I am currently running Mobil 1 75w140 in my rear axle, so I may do a UOA when I change it out, which will probably be at 25k. I'll have to look at my maintenance log to see what the total miles on the Jeep will be.
 

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I wouldn´t break too much of a sweat over that. I´ve done the initial change on most of my differentials at 50k and I´ve never had one wear out. The only problem I ever had with one was due to a deep water crossing on the Dana 35 in my YJ. 100% my fault for not swapping out the fluid afterward.

I did my JL at 9k miles and the gear oil looked and smelled new and good and there were no shavings in the oil at all. The gears looked perfect. Everything was clean. And I did a bit of towing the first 9k miles, too. There was plenty of iron on the magnetic drain plug, butnothing abnormal. I put Valvoline synthetic in both ends.

On my JK I didn´t change the diff oil until around 50k. It still looked good. Not like new, but more than serviceable. The gears and everything inside looked excellent. I´ve changed it at least twice since then with Supertech Synthetic and then Valvoline. It is at 147k and doing well. Lots of towing with that Jeep, too!

My poor Ford Transit went 135k before getting the rear diff fluid changed. I honestly neglected it while pampering my Jeeps. Ford recommends 150k, which is shocking to me. Well, the diff fluid looked used, but not burnt. It didn´t look good, but not as bad as I expected. The gears looked perfect. I will be changing it again at 170-180k. I think Ford used a good synthetic gear oil or they would have never recommended that long a run. I honestly felt badly about letting it go so long.

So it certainly won´t hurt at all to change it earlier, and I do most maintenance earlier or much earlier than Jeep recommends, but I also believe you are safe to follow the manual. Especially if you follow the severe service intervals. In the end, do what makes you feel good and confident that your machine is well maintained.

The JL will get changes at least every 25k. I´ve got Mobil 1 75w140 in the rear and Mobil 1 75w90 up front right now and when it comes out, I´ll get a used oil analysis done on it and will post it up. My bet is that the rings/pinions will outlast most of the rest of the Jeep with this kind of treatment.
 

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Another update - so I added another 5K from a road trip recently. I caught another sample and went ahead and dumped the remainder--it had 15K miles on it. These axles definitely shed more iron than any axle I have owned or had experience with. The oil was pretty dark (new Amsoil is nearly clear) and had some sparkles in it.

The drain plug was completely cleaned at 5K miles and here it is again at 20K Miles (15K miles since the last cleaning). The bottom photo is it after cleaning. I am not sure what all of you are doing, but I am glad that I changed it at 5K and again at 20K. I will resample again at 25K and see where we are. I will post the 20K UOA results when I have them.

@rockadile @DanW

2zghIn.jpg

2zgWmX.jpg
Theres your problem. Needs a much bigger magnet. ?
 

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I wouldn´t break too much of a sweat over that. I´ve done the initial change on most of my differentials at 50k and I´ve never had one wear out. The only problem I ever had with one was due to a deep water crossing on the Dana 35 in my YJ. 100% my fault for not swapping out the fluid afterward.

I did my JL at 9k miles and the gear oil looked and smelled new and good and there were no shavings in the oil at all. The gears looked perfect. Everything was clean. And I did a bit of towing the first 9k miles, too. There was plenty of iron on the magnetic drain plug, butnothing abnormal. I put Valvoline synthetic in both ends.

On my JK I didn´t change the diff oil until around 50k. It still looked good. Not like new, but more than serviceable. The gears and everything inside looked excellent. I´ve changed it at least twice since then with Supertech Synthetic and then Valvoline. It is at 147k and doing well. Lots of towing with that Jeep, too!

My poor Ford Transit went 135k before getting the rear diff fluid changed. I honestly neglected it while pampering my Jeeps. Ford recommends 150k, which is shocking to me. Well, the diff fluid looked used, but not burnt. It didn´t look good, but not as bad as I expected. The gears looked perfect. I will be changing it again at 170-180k. I think Ford used a good synthetic gear oil or they would have never recommended that long a run. I honestly felt badly about letting it go so long.

So it certainly won´t hurt at all to change it earlier, and I do most maintenance earlier or much earlier than Jeep recommends, but I also believe you are safe to follow the manual. Especially if you follow the severe service intervals. In the end, do what makes you feel good and confident that your machine is well maintained.

The JL will get changes at least every 25k. I´ve got Mobil 1 75w140 in the rear and Mobil 1 75w90 up front right now and when it comes out, I´ll get a used oil analysis done on it and will post it up. My bet is that the rings/pinions will outlast most of the rest of the Jeep with this kind of treatment.
Why not use 75-140 on both ends? Overkill on the front, but easier to just buy 1 jug IMHO. The cold viscosity is the same, but you get better hi-temp protection on the 140. I live in FL and mainly do city or offroad driving, so I typically go as big as possible on the top number on all fluids.
 

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Yeah, a high iron count in the fluid will certainly contribute to the conductivity of the oil. Gear oil itself isn't really conductive to begin with when it's sitting static. Once the fluid is churned and oxidized a bit, that changes. I think, either way, especially in any kind of gearbox where two metallic components are meshing, if that sensor seal had failed, the sensor will fail. Hi or low iron count won't matter.

The only possible way to keep this from happening is to have your gears isotropic polished before install. This has been proven to beneficial in a lot of ways. I will be running my gear set through this process myself before install to keep things as cool and clean as possible.

https://www.detroitspeed.com/gearfx-service-rem-deburr-and-micro-polish-ring-pinion-gear-070151
GearFX are good guys and good process.

In the past I've had them micro polish my old Mustang drag car ring and pinion as well as transmission gear set. It did help to both pickup trap speed and lower times; but also helped longevity. I'd get a couple seasons out a transmission that most would be rebuilding 2 or 3 times a season - at $1500/rebuild that went a long ways to reducing the budget.

If I ever need to build axles for the JL they would be on my list to have them process the ring and pinion.
 

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GearFX are good guys and good process.

In the past I've had them micro polish my old Mustang drag car ring and pinion as well as transmission gear set. It did help to both pickup trap speed and lower times; but also helped longevity. I'd get a couple seasons out a transmission that most would be rebuilding 2 or 3 times a season - at $1500/rebuild that went a long ways to reducing the budget.

If I ever need to build axles for the JL they would be on my list to have them process the ring and pinion.
I ran polished gears in my camaro, as well. There’s a noticeable difference, especially in heat.

I have my gears polished and ready for Honey Badger.

I’ve got 7 more gear sets scheduled right now before I’ll do my own, but I’m also collecting parts to upgrade things all at once on mine. So, having the time is ok with me.

Jeep Wrangler JL First Axle OC UOA Results 135AAD0D-DC23-4A1B-84F9-7E3CD49C745C


Jeep Wrangler JL First Axle OC UOA Results B3E3B3A5-649E-44E7-A16E-359C68FA0F7F


Jeep Wrangler JL First Axle OC UOA Results C1FCCDF7-AFB6-42EF-9A78-AE80405F6DE6


Jeep Wrangler JL First Axle OC UOA Results 786F6672-4688-4D59-8E6C-22A34A5BDB7C
 
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GearFX are good guys and good process.

In the past I've had them micro polish my old Mustang drag car ring and pinion as well as transmission gear set. It did help to both pickup trap speed and lower times; but also helped longevity. I'd get a couple seasons out a transmission that most would be rebuilding 2 or 3 times a season - at $1500/rebuild that went a long ways to reducing the budget.

If I ever need to build axles for the JL they would be on my list to have them process the ring and pinion.
Same; I have not decided whether I will regear or not, but if/when I do, I will definitely have them polished in the hopes it will break-in faster and produce less iron.
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