Fender Chop/split Worth it or a Mess?

[svc707]

How did you do the chop while keeping the bottom edge and flare extension as shown in image on the left? That's what I am looking to do but can't find a video that shows how it's done.

Did you have to keep the factory liner? I'd prefer to do an aluminum liner while keeping the flare extension if possible.

get yourself a really good utility knife box cutter blade. First just cut along the liner where it meets the fender. Once you start cutting you’ll see the tabs that hold the liner. Just remove anything to the liner and DO NOT REMOVE any rivets. Shape the edges to meet best you can. You can message me on IG if you want to video chat as you’re cutting. @svcwelds

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[AmericanPatriot100]

What about leaving the inner fender liners off? Is that a bad idea? I haven’t seen anyone ask this but I’ve seen plenty of videos of jeeps on the trail flexing out with no inner fenders. Though I’ve seen more videos of jeeps with the inner fenders liner.

 

[roaniecowpony]

What about leaving the inner fender liners off? Is that a bad idea? I haven’t seen anyone ask this but I’ve seen plenty of videos of jeeps on the trail flexing out with no inner fenders. Though I’ve seen more videos of jeeps with the inner fenders liner.

I've seen it on the trail. I would not recommend it. There are components on the firewall that would be unprotected.

 

[WillysMeow]

I've seen it on the trail. I would not recommend it. There are components on the firewall that would be unprotected.

Agreed.

Lots of the metal aftermarket inner fender have vents which seems not good. Consistent engine temperature without hot or cold spots is best for the engine. As you said keep the mud, water and dirty out as much as possible!

 

[roaniecowpony]

I do think the aluminum liners that are more or less all copies of each other, are a poor application choice of manufacturing process for the product characteristics needed. The end product is a flat faceted liner trying to act like a round liner. Basically "a square peg in a round hole" as the saying goes.

You can see my front liners have had tire contact. If the liners were molded to allow maximum clearance, using all available distance to the internal structure behind the liner, the tire would not likely have made contact. Of course, wheel backspace (not offset), axle width, tire diameter, tire width, as well as bump stop limits (not lift), all come into play. My setup is 37" x 12.50 tire, 4.5" backspace, Rubicon "wide track" axles, 2" bump stop in the front.

In the rear, you can see where I re-used the OEM liner, by trimming the outer section off. I had to add one fabricated tab in the front area to stabilize the floppy edge. But the OEM liner maximizes the available clearance much better than the Motobilt faceted liner. I just couldn't get the needed clearance with the Motobilt, without either moving the wheel outboard further or limiting suspension with more bump stop. Neither of which I preferred.

My take, having a broad background in manufacturing, using vacu-forming of thin plastic, onto a curved form, would allow maximizing clearances and provide a durable product, while producing a part in a cost effective process. It's not sexy, but a liner doesn't need to be expensive and sexy.

 

[SadRobot]

I do think the aluminum liners that are more or less all copies of each other, are a poor application choice of manufacturing process for the product characteristics needed. The end product is a flat faceted liner trying to act like a round liner. Basically "a square peg in a round hole" as the saying goes.

You can see my front liners have had tire contact. If the liners were molded to allow maximum clearance, using all available distance to the internal structure behind the liner, the tire would not likely have made contact. Of course, wheel backspace (not offset), axle width, tire diameter, tire width, as well as bump stop limits (not lift), all come into play. My setup is 37" x 12.50 tire, 4.5" backspace, Rubicon "wide track" axles, 2" bump stop in the front.

In the rear, you can see where I re-used the OEM liner, by trimming the outer section off. I had to add one fabricated tab in the front area to stabilize the floppy edge. But the OEM liner maximizes the available clearance much better than the Motobilt faceted liner. I just couldn't get the needed clearance with the Motobilt, without either moving the wheel outboard further or limiting suspension with more bump stop. Neither of which I preferred.

My take, having a broad background in manufacturing, using vacu-forming of thin plastic, onto a curved form, would allow maximizing clearances and provide a durable product, while producing a part in a cost effective process. It's not sexy, but a liner doesn't need to be expensive and sexy.

I have same problem. Tires are always rubbing the liners and all of the companies seem to make the same thing.

 

[AmericanPatriot100]

I figured as much and since we get a lot of rain here in the PNW not removing the factory liners is in my best interest. I have not done the fender chop and gone with aftermarket liners for that exact reason you stated @roaniecowpony, I’m ok with a high clearance plastic liner for the fender chop. I don’t need or want to spend the coin for aluminum or steel inner fender liners along with high price of some of the fender chop brackets.

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