EVO High Clearance Long Arm Kit Issues

[Frezski]

I picked them up directly from King & as far as I remember nothing special was needed other than some cutting. It goes in place where the OEM spring went



Ya man I hear you. When I buy an RC car Kit I can feel safe knowing it's 100% there on point lol

If you go the Evo high Clearance Long Arm Kit, just have them do it. $3k & it's "their problem" so they can definitely unfuck their own mess lol

It wasn't the $$ amount for me, more the hit I get from doing projects like this. But there was very little joy lol

Also I haven't measured travel but I believe it's a 13" stroke shock on a 1:1 ratio so how does it get advertised 15"?

I know the feeling man. So far, the way my jeep is set up (not too drastic yet) it all has been the labor of love in my garage. The only thing I couldn't do is balance tires and the powder coating of the red accents. I haven't inquired with them about having their shop do the work yet, as I am debating on going 1 tons at the same time so I have a ways to go savings wise. But 3g is good to know.. Hang in there, I hope you're all dialed in soon and get to enjoy the fruits of your labor!

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[Frezski]

Also, you're rig is gonna be awesome when you're finished. Im digging the pic's you have posted so far.

 

[D60]

I'm confused as to why it'd be difficult to include a comprehensive hardware kit with every product you sell?

You compile a list through assembly of said product in your factory. You record said list and bag or box the hardware or fasteners accordingly. Assuming one can READ and COUNT it's literally just a matter of going down the list.

I feel like literally hundreds of thousands of companies do this everyday with - in my experience - a high degree of success. Even Harbor Freight pulls it off pretty well, although sometimes the QUALITY of their fasteners is questionable....at least they're all there.

I guess I just expect too much???

 

[scrape]

I picked them up directly from King & as far as I remember nothing special was needed other than some cutting. It goes in place where the OEM spring went

Nah the rears are mounted up inside the frame rails, just wondering what bracket you used, it looks good. These are the accutune brackets:

Also I haven't measured travel but I believe it's a 13" stroke shock on a 1:1 ratio so how does it get advertised 15"?

It's not 1:1 at least on the back. It should be a 12" stroke and the shocks are mounted 30 degrees from vertical. 1/cos(30*) is a 1.15 correction factor, 12 x 1.15 = 13.8" of wheel travel. A bit of a simplification and it assumes there is no binding and it assumes your jeep is perfectly bumped. But a pretty close estimation, and they advertise 14" in the rear.

In front your shocks should be a 14" stroke mounted 10 degrees from vertical. 1/cos(10*) = 1.015, 14 x 1.015 is 14.25" of travel. They advertise 14.5", again, close enough.

 

[D60]

^^^ that TIG weld on the round is pretty damn sweet

 

[Frezski]

^^^ that TIG weld on the round is pretty damn sweet

Weld porn for sure

 

[HackedJL]

Nah the rears are mounted up inside the frame rails, just wondering what bracket you used, it looks good. These are the accutune brackets:

It's not 1:1 at least on the back. It should be a 12" stroke and the shocks are mounted 30 degrees from vertical. 1/cos(30*) is a 1.15 correction factor, 12 x 1.15 = 13.8" of wheel travel. A bit of a simplification and it assumes there is no binding and it assumes your jeep is perfectly bumped. But a pretty close estimation, and they advertise 14" in the rear.

In front your shocks should be a 14" stroke mounted 10 degrees from vertical. 1/cos(10*) = 1.015, 14 x 1.015 is 14.25" of travel. They advertise 14.5", again, close enough.

Oh that makes complete sense on the travel then, still haven't had a chance to get hard measurements and find what the total useable travel is.

The bump stop was direct from King, came with it's its own mount too which looks identical to the accutune one

Got the track bars all on today and drove her to the car wash. Still need to install the PSC Hydro assist, amazon fenders, bumpers, tire carrier, program it with the Razer, and finish ride height/bump check.

I did notice on my front that the trackbar limited the travel about half an inch compared to the driver side. Need to check measurements and see, I'm figuring my ride height needs to come down a bit and probably turn the front track bar a few turns to lengthen it

 

[gsxr310]

Looking good!!

 

[Goblue]

Oh that makes complete sense on the travel then, still haven't had a chance to get hard measurements and find what the total useable travel is.

The bump stop was direct from King, came with it's its own mount too which looks identical to the accutune one

Got the track bars all on today and drove her to the car wash. Still need to install the PSC Hydro assist, amazon fenders, bumpers, tire carrier, program it with the Razer, and finish ride height/bump check.

I did notice on my front that the trackbar limited the travel about half an inch compared to the driver side. Need to check measurements and see, I'm figuring my ride height needs to come down a bit and probably turn the front track bar a few turns to lengthen it

Man fantastic job.. Can I drive mine over there.....lol

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

Nah the rears are mounted up inside the frame rails, just wondering what bracket you used, it looks good. These are the accutune brackets:

No, those are the King brackets that can be purchased most anywhere. I bought mine from Northridge4x4.

 

[HackedJL]

Anyone have some advice here where to start? I have about 1" less droop on the passenger side than driver side. Axle is centered, no away bars connected. When I remove the trackbar it moves freely

I'm not really digging the planes on the drag link and trackbar, I feel this could be the issue. I believe the axle side track bar mount must be raised atleast 1", this way at full droop and ride height it's accurate angles

Here's ride height for example. Almost there but not quite.

Hoping user error but looks like I need to fix geometry?

 

[scrape]

It’s hard to say without putting hands on your Jeep but think of it this way. When your suspension droops, the axle gets pulled backwards by the control arms, and to the left (drivers side) by the track bar. So at some point it’s going to get stuck no matter what you do.

If the binding is caused by the axle being pulled left by the track bar, you could either lengthen the track bar, or you could raise the axle side bracket.

In both cases there are some considerations. If you lengthen the track bar to accommodate full droop, then the axle will likely not be centered at ride height. That’s not really a big deal as long as it’s not causing clearance issues. The other issue is that at full bump, the axle will be pushed further to the passenger side, which could cause your bump stops to not line up, or could cause binding as the suspension is stuffed up instead of drooped down. You would need to pull your coils and check everything at full bump to make sure it’s good to go.

A raised track bar bracket will accomplish the same thing as a longer track bar in the stock bracket, without some of those draw backs. The problem with that is, the track bar and drag link need to follow the same arc as the suspension cycles in order to prevent bump steer. The math gets complicated here and it’s easier to use a computer model that does the math for you. A trick that most people use is to just make their drag link parallel with their track bar and that gets things close enough. And to do that, you would need to pair a raised track bar bracket with a flipped drag link. And unfortunately, that drag link you’re using now looks pretty new. It would need to be replaced.

 

[HackedJL]

It’s hard to say without putting hands on your Jeep but think of it this way. When your suspension droops, the axle gets pulled backwards by the control arms, and to the left (drivers side) by the track bar. So at some point it’s going to get stuck no matter what you do.

If the binding is caused by the axle being pulled left by the track bar, you could either lengthen the track bar, or you could raise the axle side bracket.

In both cases there are some considerations. If you lengthen the track bar to accommodate full droop, then the axle will likely not be centered at ride height. That’s not really a big deal as long as it’s not causing clearance issues. The other issue is that at full bump, the axle will be pushed further to the passenger side, which could cause your bump stops to not line up, or could cause binding as the suspension is stuffed up instead of drooped down. You would need to pull your coils and check everything at full bump to make sure it’s good to go.

A raised track bar bracket will accomplish the same thing as a longer track bar in the stock bracket, without some of those draw backs. The problem with that is, the track bar and drag link need to follow the same arc as the suspension cycles in order to prevent bump steer. The math gets complicated here and it’s easier to use a computer model that does the math for you. A trick that most people use is to just make their drag link parallel with their track bar and that gets things close enough. And to do that, you would need to pair a raised track bar bracket with a flipped drag link. And unfortunately, that drag link you’re using now looks pretty new. It would need to be replaced.

Appreciate the thorough response! Im going to take my tacoma out to the trails tomorrow and get another day on the jeep Monday to figure this out.

If I lengthen the Trackbar I definitely wont be center at ride height. I figure it off by 1" it wouldnt be ideal unless Im missing something. This is gonna drive me a bit crazy lol

 

[HackedJL]

Best bet is raise track bar and do drag link flip.

Yeah I ordered a teraflex raised trackbar bracket and gonna flip the drag link. Seems this will get us closer as the lift on the coilovers kit is very excessive

 

[HackedJL]

Wish I had more time to mess with the jeep this week and hit an alignment but I'll try tomorrow.

Front trackbar axle raised mount came in, installed but had to shorten to center the axle. Put jeep in the air and saw no benefit in the down travel. Decided to skip against the entire drag flip and go back to stock track bar mount.

Gonna just strap it at this point but whole 2" of travel atleast gone for sure.

Hoping alignment comes makes it easier to drive above 50. Still no sway bars but I don't think that's the cause of it getting a little floaty.

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