Differential oil change

[DToxic]

Anyone use this Mopar 75w85?
Mopar Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram 2 Quarts SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Axle Lubricant OEM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VMTHSXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TRlrFbEAE1NEH

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[Rhinebeck01]

Anyone use this Mopar 75w85?
Mopar Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram 2 Quarts SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Axle Lubricant OEM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VMTHSXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TRlrFbEAE1NEH

@DToxic

I would not even consider running that.... and that is just with my considering price alone ...and not even considering other valid reasons, not to do so.

I'm curious... why do you feel you need to use Mopar branded fluids in your Rubi, JL... Yes, your JL and your choice but at least consider the following...

There really is no pressing reason, lets call it to do so..... to go with Mopar fluids.

Why pay for Mopar branded fluids that are no better and maybe not be as good as non Mopar branded fluids.. Dollar foolish and more.

Using Royal Purple lets say at $21.00 and you need 3 bottles to do the job.. Cost is $63.00.


With that said..

ON EDIT - Read here - Important - https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/differential-oil-change.47318/post-2164230

Regardless of whether you tow or not, DO, put in the recommended weight fluids for the given differential.

This is what many here use (me to) for their Rubi's:
(Some are also using Valvoline, Amsoil, etc.)

Using Royal Purple, you do not need any additional additives..
Dana 44, M210 (Front) 1.2 qts. Royal Purple 75w90 Syn. Gear Oil
Dana 44 M220 (Rear) 1.5 qts. Royal Purple 75w140 Syn.Gear Oil

What you do is buy 1 quart of the 75W90 and two quarts of the 75w140. Now, do your rear diff first with the 75w140 and you will have some fluid left over. Now, do your front with the 1 quart of 75w90 and since you will be a tad short of fluid, use the left over 75w140 to fill the diff, till it drips out. Per Royal Purple, there is absolutely no reason you cannot mix the two product weights together. I spoke with their rep on the phone..

Do as suggested, buying only 3 quarts cause it saves you lots of $, and you will have no left over fluids lying around...... and because it is ok to do so. It is not at all necessary to go with Mopar fluids... And for sure regardless what you chose to do, do your own diff fluid changes and not let the dealer do them.

Hint: Be sure when you do your diffs (easy to do) to always loosen the fill plug before you drain the diff using the diff drain plug.

Royal Purple:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J15THO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007QGT34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[DToxic]

@DToxic

I would not even consider running that.... and that is just with my considering price alone ...and not even considering other valid reasons, not to do so.

I'm curious... why do you feel you need to use Mopar branded fluids in your Rubi, JL... Yes, your JL and your choice but at least consider the following...

There really is no pressing reason, lets call it to do so..... to go with Mopar fluids.

Why pay for Mopar branded fluids that are no better and maybe not be as good as non Mopar branded fluids.. Dollar foolish and more.

Using Royal Purple lets say at $21.00 and you need 3 bottles to do the job.. Cost is $63.00.


With that said..

Regardless of whether you tow or not, DO, put in the recommended weight fluids for the given differential.

This is what many here use (me to) for their Rubi's:
(Some are also using Valvoline, Amsoil, etc.)

Using Royal Purple, you do not need any additional additives..
Dana 44, M210 (Front) 1.2 qts. Royal Purple 75w90 Syn. Gear Oil
Dana 44 M220 (Rear) 1.5 qts. Royal Purple 75w140 Syn.Gear Oil

What you do is buy 1 quart of the 75W90 and two quarts of the 75w140. Now, do your rear diff first with the 75w140 and you will have some fluid left over. Now, do your front with the 1 quart of 75w90 and since you will be a tad short of fluid, use the left over 75w140 to fill the diff, till it drips out. Per Royal Purple, there is absolutely no reason you cannot mix the two product weights together. I spoke with their rep on the phone..

Do as suggested, buying only 3 quarts cause it saves you lots of $, and you will have no left over fluids lying around...... and because it is ok to do so. It is not at all necessary to go with Mopar fluids... And for sure regardless what you chose to do, do your own diff fluid changes and not let the dealer do them.

Hint: Be sure when you do your diffs (easy to do) to always loosen the fill plug before you drain the diff using the diff drain plug.

Royal Purple:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J15THO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007QGT34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks @Rhinebeck01 ! Always appreciate your detailed responses and extensive knowledge downloads.

My main reason for using OEM fluids is purely to maintain my warranty. I don’t want issues where FCA denies an issue due to non-approved fluids. I came from the M3 world where people tried using their own favorite differential oils to save $, but it ended up causing bad rattling. Going back to the approved Castro’s diff oil solved their issue. Most likely it was lack of sufficient friction modifier in the fluid, but anyways that was my main concern.

Though for this case, you’re probably right, the manual does just say to use GL-5 approved fluid. I’m most likely overthinking it. But I’m confused because the manual I have doesn’t mention 75w140 (although I’ve seen this weight widely used and recommended). Would you recommend 75w140 if I have the tow package but don’t have immediate plans for towing?

Thanks again for your responses!

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Thanks @Rhinebeck01 ! Always appreciate your detailed responses and extensive knowledge downloads.

My main reason for using OEM fluids is purely to maintain my warranty. I don’t want issues where FCA denies an issue due to non-approved fluids. I came from the M3 world where people tried using their own favorite differential oils to save $, but it ended up causing bad rattling. Going back to the approved Castro’s diff oil solved their issue. Most likely it was lack of sufficient friction modifier in the fluid, but anyways that was my main concern.

Though for this case, you’re probably right, the manual does just say to use GL-5 approved fluid. I’m most likely overthinking it. But I’m confused because the manual I have doesn’t mention 75w140 (although I’ve seen this weight widely used and recommended). Would you recommend 75w140 if I have the tow package but don’t have immediate plans for towing?

Thanks again for your responses!

@DToxic

I'm glad you took my post in a positive way.. I understand / appreciate your warranty concerns.

Good that you are concerned about your warranty and what you might do that would impact your warranty in a negative manner...

... But............ no way, are you going to run into warranty related issues using in spec, fluids regardless of the brand.

IF you are going to have any issue, (slim, slim chance)it is with you doing your own diff fluid changes, oil changes, transfer case fluid changes..., etc.. You'll avoid this slim chance, by just keeping a detailed log of the fluid changes and the receipts for the in spec fluids you use.

OH.. yes, whether you pull a trailer / tow or not...... do use, in your Dana 44 M220, (Rear) 1.5 qts. of 75w140 Syn.Gear Oil .

 

[Whiskey 13]

Changed rear differential fluid today in JLUR, 14,650 miles. Used Amsoil 75W-140 Severe Gear Synthetic. Oil removed was not bad, plug had minimal fuzz. Of course the oil stinks (not burnt smell) but I have never had any gear oil smell like roses. Entire job took all of 20 minutes. Will do the front next week as it is now raining. Will use Amsoil 75W-110 Severe Gear Synthetic. Owned many diesels, love Amsoil products, but in the past have also used Valvoline and Rotella with great success.

 

[Whiskey 13]

Good weather today, changed front differential oil in JLUR, 14,672 miles. Used Amsoil 75W-110 Severe Gear Synthetic. Oil removed was clean, plug had very minimal fuzz. Total time about 20 Minutes. Best invention made are the squeeze bag oil containers, sure makes the job a lot easer and faster.

 

[Amaruq]

What if... all we have is blue Teflon tape, not the oil resistant yellow Teflon tape? Will I die?

 

[MacJack]

Wealth of info for this non mechanic. I have a 18 JLR with 12,500 miles and these specs:
4:1 Rock–Trac HD Part Time 4WD System
Tru–Lok Front and Rear Axles
8–Speed Automatic Transmission Hill Descent Control
4.10 Axle Gear Ratio
3rd Generation Dana® 44 HD Wide Front Axle
3rd Generation Dana® 44 HD Wide Rear Axle
Front Disconnecting Stabilizer Bar

So your link and direction work for me... Just making sure as, I do check my mail when putting in the PO mail boxes.

Thanks again,

@DToxic

With that said..

Regardless of whether you tow or not, DO, put in the recommended weight fluids for the given differential.

This is what many here use (me to) for their Rubi's:
(Some are also using Valvoline, Amsoil, etc.)

Using Royal Purple, you do not need any additional additives..
Dana 44, M210 (Front) 1.2 qts. Royal Purple 75w90 Syn. Gear Oil
Dana 44 M220 (Rear) 1.5 qts. Royal Purple 75w140 Syn.Gear Oil

What you do is buy 1 quart of the 75W90 and two quarts of the 75w140. Now, do your rear diff first with the 75w140 and you will have some fluid left over. Now, do your front with the 1 quart of 75w90 and since you will be a tad short of fluid, use the left over 75w140 to fill the diff, till it drips out. Per Royal Purple, there is absolutely no reason you cannot mix the two product weights together. I spoke with their rep on the phone..

Do as suggested, buying only 3 quarts cause it saves you lots of $, and you will have no left over fluids lying around...... and because it is ok to do so. It is not at all necessary to go with Mopar fluids... And for sure regardless what you chose to do, do your own diff fluid changes and not let the dealer do them.

Hint: Be sure when you do your diffs (easy to do) to always loosen the fill plug before you drain the diff using the diff drain plug.

Royal Purple:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J15THO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007QGT34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Amaruq]

What’s the trick for filling the front with the tie rod in the way?

 

[Redbaron73]

What’s the trick for filling the front with the tie rod in the way?

 

[Amaruq]

That’s trick! I ended up just turning full lock left and squeezing it in there.

 

[Whiskey 13]

I use Amsoil and it comes in a very convenient squeezable bag. Have a JULR and changed both front and rear oils with out any pumps and no issues. Start to finish took about 20 minutes to drain, clean plug, reinstall and refill on each end.

 

[JJSix]

I'm looking at the AMSOIL website and it's showing me a recommendation of using the 75W-90 in both the front and rear diffs. What's the reasoning for running the 75W-140 in the rear that some of y'all are using? Also, if going with AMSOIL and running their 140 in the rear, is there any reason I couldn't order the 3 quarts and use the same filling approach as the RP listed above?

 

[1quick1]

I'm looking at the AMSOIL website and it's showing me a recommendation of using the 75W-90 in both the front and rear diffs. What's the reasoning for running the 75W-140 in the rear that some of y'all are using? Also, if going with AMSOIL and running their 140 in the rear, is there any reason I couldn't order the 3 quarts and use the same filling approach as the RP listed above?

The manual discusses using 75w-140 in the rear for towing.

 

[JJSix]

See it now, didn't see there was other threads that discuss this in more detail, thanks!

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