Diagnosing a Pull to the Right problem

[JT1]

Update: I tried the power steering reset process and it seems to have resolved my issue. I first checked all of my brakes and made sure the pads were good, caliper pistons were good, and that I didn’t have a small rock or hardened mud or clay wedged between the caliper and rotor. I then walked through the rest process. Took it for a spin and it only seemed to help a little. I felt like maybe I didn’t fully turn all the way left and then right and then when I came back to center I over shot the center point so I decided to do the reset process again. After the second time, my steering stopped pulling right and it was driving straight again.

For anyone else having similar issues, this process was super easy and quick. It will be my first troubleshooting/diagnosis step from now on.

glad to hear it helped!

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[jellis4148]

Hopefully the problem doesn't come back, but I noticed you said you are using the MC dampener. Dampener's like that will cause a pull to the right. If you use a through shaft like the Fox it makes a huge difference.

 

[BlackBeard1790]

Hopefully the problem doesn't come back, but I noticed you said you are using the MC dampener. Dampener's like that will cause a pull to the right. If you use a through shaft like the Fox it makes a huge difference.

One of the first things I tested when the pull happened was the dampener. I completely removed it and it didn’t change anything. Still had the same amount of pull. So, if anything I figured I could rule that out as the cause of the problem, but could also say that the dampener wasn’t helping resolve the problem (or masking the real problem)

 

[LukeDagny]

I have the MetalCloak 2.5” Game Changer lift and Rocksport shocks so I decided to just go with their Rocksport steering stabilizer. That was actually one of the first things I checked. I disconnected it and went for a drive and it didn’t change anything. Still pulled to the right. No faster, no slower.

Is the Rocksport steering damper gas charged? I want to replace my OEM with something with more damping, but not gas charged.

 

[BlackBeard1790]

Is the Rocksport steering damper gas charged? I want to replace my OEM with something with more damping, but not gas charged.

Yes, I believe it is Nitrogen.

 

[LukeDagny]

Yes, I believe it is Nitrogen.

Thanks. I might reinstall the Rancho RS7 steering damper and try a reset to see if the right pull goes away. I liked how the RS7 eliminated the shimmy over bridge seams, but hated the constant correction from turning right.

 

[Jaz Bennett]

Attached is a picture of my alignment specs. Having a hard pull to the right still. I recently put new Mickey Thompson Baja Boss MTs 35x12.50r17 and I’ve rotated them multiple times and that hasn’t changed anything so I think I’ve ruled the tires out. Went to get the alignment check and seems all good here too. No weird sounds or anything coming from the front end. Sort of at a loss now so coming here for additional thoughts.

Attached is a picture of my alignment specs. Having a hard pull to the right still. I recently put new Mickey Thompson Baja Boss MTs 35x12.50r17 and I’ve rotated them multiple times and that hasn’t changed anything so I think I’ve ruled the tires out. Went to get the alignment check and seems all good here too. No weird sounds or anything coming from the front end. Sort of at a loss now so coming here for additional thoughts.

What year is your jeep? Because my jeep is also pulling to the right when braking. No noise or grinding. Just the pull.

 

[BlackBeard1790]

What year is your jeep? Because my jeep is also pulling to the right when braking. No noise or grinding. Just the pull.

It’s a 2022 with the 2.0T

 

[Jaz Bennett]

It’s a 2022 with the 2.0T

Ah, ok, mines a 2018, JL 3.6. I was thinking if they were the same that could help determine why.

 

[BlackBeard1790]

Ah, ok, mines a 2018, JL 3.6. I was thinking if they were the same that could help determine why.

Do you happen to know if your power steering was updated to the stronger unit? There’s a TSB to replace the aluminum power steering unit for 2018-2020 year JLs

 

[Jaz Bennett]

Well, actually I have 101 codes being thrown. My steering wheel locks up randomly while I'm driving and that's almost caused accidents. The sway bar disconnects, traction control disconnects, literally everything starts going off all at the same time. From my first post, what I gathered from people is the bus can needs to be replaced and that will or should fix all if not most of the codes. The dealership won't do that unless I pay the $200 diagnostic fee. But if it's just the bus can and that's fixes everything, then $200 is wasted. Right?? Am I thinking of that right?

 

[BlackBeard1790]

Well, actually I have 101 codes being thrown. My steering wheel locks up randomly while I'm driving and that's almost caused accidents. The sway bar disconnects, traction control disconnects, literally everything starts going off all at the same time. From my first post, what I gathered from people is the bus can needs to be replaced and that will or should fix all if not most of the codes. The dealership won't do that unless I pay the $200 diagnostic fee. But if it's just the bus can and that's fixes everything, then $200 is wasted. Right?? Am I thinking of that right?

Typically, that $200 fee will be applied to the cost of the repair. So, if they say the repair of the bus is $300, then really you’re only coming out of pocket only another $100. Sometimes getting that confirmation is worth the cost of the diagnostics so you don’t end up replacing that part only to find out it wasn’t the actual problem.

 

[Jaz Bennett]

I absolutely agree with you on that. However, I did ask why the diagnostic has to be done if I already know what's needing addressed, and they said it pays the mechanics labor when they are working on my jeep. So none of the fee goes towards the work at all. I'd still have the full amount of what they did to the jeep, for whatever parts they replace and I'm assuming more labor.
And if they ran the diagnostic they'd most likely take hours and/or days to only find out it's the bus can that needs to replaced like I said in the first place, and didn't need to run a diagnostic inthe first place. But also, I had a diagnostic run at a friend's shop showing all the codes. I tried to show the dealership the codes so I didn't have to pay that $200 but they refuse to use them saying there's is more in depth to find the issue.

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