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Jruedastinger

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On a trip to town this morning the rear axle was moving around like crazy. Every stop and acceleration I could feel the axle moving back and forth.
So when I got home I decided to tear into my rear lower control arms which are my number one suspect. I’ve been waiting on a spanner tool to take the retaining washers off with, but who knows when its gonna get here.

It sucked but I used a hammer and screwdriver to take off the retaining washers , once I got them off, things got easier. The bushings were so bad all I had to do was push them out with my thumb.....:facepalm:

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Getting the new bushings on the ball was the hardest part. I don’t have a fancy press so I had to use a vise. I used a 32 mm socket on one side of the vise so the ball would have room to get pushed through, and put the ball against the other side then tightened the vise until it popped on then turn it around and do same thing for other bushing.........

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I used the 32mm socket to hammer the assembly into the arm. Then they give you stainless set screws so you can tell by looking at the arm that it’s got the newest bushings .........🙂

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I replaced all my joints and still getting a slight push at breaking. Wtf. Did urs stop?
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Roky

Roky

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I replaced all my joints and still getting a slight push at breaking. Wtf. Did urs stop?
Yeah...... mine feels like a brand new lift. These new bushings are way better than what I had.... maybe it’s a loose caliper or pads, or wheel bearing ? Make sure lug nuts are tight too.
 

Jruedastinger

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Yeah...... mine feels like a brand new lift. These new bushings are way better than what I had.... maybe it’s a loose caliper or pads, or wheel bearing ? Make sure lug nuts are tight too.
the only joints I haven’t replaced are my Johnny front lowers and that’s because I went with cavfab to give me the clearance for my wheel. Having 5.7 backspace on my aev wheel. I did lowered them down to check them and they seem fine. I’ll move on to the breaks. I just installed the power brake kit about 3 weeks ago but it was doing that slight push before that.
 
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Roky

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That’s it ...... All 8 control arms and front and rear track bars are rebuilt, finally. Took it out and flexed it..... it’s night and day better. There’s no clunking, clanking, or squeaking. And the best part is, I didn’t lose any flex.....super stoked........🙂

Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… 194E5C79-3F3A-44FC-B792-F5924C42D7DB
 
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hoag4147

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hoag4147

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In my mind , I’m still that 21 year old that does stupid shit, like driving up a wooden ramp. But my body says , go get a F***ng ladder old man......:facepalm:
Hahaha. That is hilarious. Even if my rig could flex that much not sure I would drive up that ramp. I would for sure slide off and rip a fender clean off :)
 

xtremejoe

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That is brilliant. I love how you even painted your RTI ramp to match the step ladder !!
 
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Roky

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Put hard top on for our 4 month tour in hell. 🥵..... plus gonna be more pavement princess this summer than usual.

Plus, I wanted to see how long it takes to switch... 30 minutes... taking my time. Probably can get it to 20 minutes pretty easily. Also give it a good cleaning, long overdue...........😎.......

Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… BBF53DF9-5973-4AD2-B6AC-D2C45C8905C5
 

AusJeepNoob

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I decided to ditch mama’s silicone baking pan and use tesa tape to cover the top of my relay switch.

I liked the idea of the muffin pan cover but couldn’t get it stay on while wheeling. A few drops of silicone caulking on the corners would probably work, but I think the tape looks cleaner and it’s definitely not coming off.

Small thing, but I’m not crazy about leaving the top of that relay exposed because I’m always under there piddling with something, and it’s inevitable I’ll short it out.....:facepalm:

Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… BBF53DF9-5973-4AD2-B6AC-D2C45C8905C5

Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… BBF53DF9-5973-4AD2-B6AC-D2C45C8905C5
Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… BBF53DF9-5973-4AD2-B6AC-D2C45C8905C5
I was going to go with the Warn kit but the Stinger looks nicer plus I'll be using a bunch of Stinger product when I get around to doing my stereo upgrade. Did you consider rubber boots over the terminals to protect from shorts?
 

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Roky

Roky

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I was going to go with the Warn kit but the Stinger looks nicer plus I'll be using a bunch of Stinger product when I get around to doing my stereo upgrade. Did you consider rubber boots over the terminals to protect from shorts?
Yes... but couldn’t find anything that fit tight that didn’t have gaps . I found that the Tesa tape works the best. It’s better coverage and no gaps. And stays on tight. .
Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… 50E6D2F8-7150-48A3-8367-85811F9E4582
 
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Roky

Roky

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My track bar was contacting my track bar brace in certain flexed situations, I think due to how much shock travel and my bump stop setup I’m running......so not wanting to sacrifice that.....the brace had to be sacrificed......🤨

Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… 344A005A-0150-45D3-886F-49D81091DD20

Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… E7F0D561-0BC2-4562-AC48-2D4F9750B04D



before......
Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… 2898641D-E27A-4A77-B99F-FE45FD505C26


after......
Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… 3CA79BDC-D75D-48B1-B87D-45681788559B
 
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Roky

Roky

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Did you replace your rear driveshaft also or just the front?
I’m still using factory rear driveshaft. I’m going to eventually, but so far it hasn’t been any issues.
 

hoag4147

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I’ve been running without dust shields for a while now on my front axle, the oem shields don’t fit on the RCV axle shafts. Yesterday I decided to try grinding them down with the dremel....... It worked .....😳..... I super glued the two half’s together to help hold them on, so next time I get into my axles I’ll have the rcv tube seals to put in there.

Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… 3CA79BDC-D75D-48B1-B87D-45681788559B


Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… 3CA79BDC-D75D-48B1-B87D-45681788559B


Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… 3CA79BDC-D75D-48B1-B87D-45681788559B
Good idea. Now. Let’s see how super glue holds :)
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