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hoag4147

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That was the hardest part of the whole thing. I ended up using my phone camera…?
I guess I could get my 24 yr old son over to assist when needed. At least he can see sh!! ? Not bad idea with phone
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Roky

Roky

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Warning…. This is a long one, you may want to bring a snack…..?

I had the wife drive up the ramp, ( I know ? )…..while I listened for that clunk I’ve been chasing. When your in the drivers seat it sounds like it’s coming from the front so that’s where I’ve been looking.


She did a great job, she didn’t run over me, or drive off of it, had to get the ladder for her though…..? ….
Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… BADAC6F5-ECE1-426B-BC30-2DFEAFEAF2AE


The rear lower control arms are hitting the frame. It’s catching on the weld of the bracket then slides off and smacks the frame.
Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… 7D00153C-F6C2-473A-8C16-8EEA8C9AD821
Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… B2655AE5-06BF-4648-A3CA-33AFFD52263E
Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… 262E20AC-2724-4B0F-B506-8DDFC2A85B0C
Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… D8448908-E8ED-4BE2-8009-B073D84A2936


I sent a PM to Rock Krawler, and an email to Adam with RK just to let them know and so they’re aware of it. Waiting to hear back from them.

I don’t expect them to do anything about it since I’m running long travel shocks with shorter springs, and I’m sure all their R&D was done on lifts with appropriate length shocks, and the coil over rigs have enough height that this isn’t a problem in most applications.

Their fix for this is probably gonna be switch out to straight arms, but that is NOT an option for me. One of the main reasons I went with RK in the first place was their approach to high clearance.

I absolutely love this long arm kit, it’s definitely the best mod I’ve done so far…..if I have to live with that clunk, so be it, at least I know where it’s coming from, which is a big relief cuz not knowing drives me crazy….:angry:

I’m gonna meet up with my buddy that’s a welding guru next week and go over it with him. I texted him pics, and he seems to think we can add some support and clearance out that section of the bracket.

Cut and grind and weld where the yellow line is…..then add support to the front of the bracket
Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… 29BB2335-5E50-492C-905B-07BA92DF817B


Sorry for the novel………:facepalm:
 

FloridaSon

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Great detective work. Those ramps are awesome, amazed at the travel.

Top vid- is that in the public trails at ONF?
 

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Should've just given your wife a parachute :)
 

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Warning…. This is a long one, you may want to bring a snack…..?

I had the wife drive up the ramp, ( I know ? )…..while I listened for that clunk I’ve been chasing. When your in the drivers seat it sounds like it’s coming from the front so that’s where I’ve been looking.


She did a great job, she didn’t run over me, or drive off of it, had to get the ladder for her though…..? ….
BADAC6F5-ECE1-426B-BC30-2DFEAFEAF2AE.jpeg


The rear lower control arms are hitting the frame. It’s catching on the weld of the bracket then slides off and smacks the frame.
7D00153C-F6C2-473A-8C16-8EEA8C9AD821.jpeg
B2655AE5-06BF-4648-A3CA-33AFFD52263E.jpeg
262E20AC-2724-4B0F-B506-8DDFC2A85B0C.jpeg
D8448908-E8ED-4BE2-8009-B073D84A2936.jpeg


I sent a PM to Rock Krawler, and an email to Adam with RK just to let them know and so they’re aware of it. Waiting to hear back from them.

I don’t expect them to do anything about it since I’m running long travel shocks with shorter springs, and I’m sure all their R&D was done on lifts with appropriate length shocks, and the coil over rigs have enough height that this isn’t a problem in most applications.

Their fix for this is probably gonna be switch out to straight arms, but that is NOT an option for me. One of the main reasons I went with RK in the first place was their approach to high clearance.

I absolutely love this long arm kit, it’s definitely the best mod I’ve done so far…..if I have to live with that clunk, so be it, at least I know where it’s coming from, which is a big relief cuz not knowing drives me crazy….:angry:

I’m gonna meet up with my buddy that’s a welding guru next week and go over it with him. I texted him pics, and he seems to think we can add some support and clearance out that section of the bracket.

Cut and grind and weld where the yellow line is…..then add support to the front of the bracket
29BB2335-5E50-492C-905B-07BA92DF817B.jpeg


Sorry for the novel………:facepalm:
My wife would be “nope, not going to happen” lol. This was not a novel , all the novels are over in exact center thread ??‍♂.
I know this probably not an option for the rear LCAs but could the axle mount be positioned further out (wider)?

Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… 121F3835-6A12-4F46-8D9E-20AF3A3E5399
 
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Roky

Roky

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My wife would be “nope, not going to happen” lol. This was not a novel , all the novels are over in exact center thread ??‍♂.
I know this probably not an option for the rear LCAs but could the axle mount be positioned further out (wider)?

121F3835-6A12-4F46-8D9E-20AF3A3E5399.jpeg
Lmao….yeah , I could have went a little closer to the wheel with the mounts, in fact Eric ( motto21) told me to when I was installing.

But the sway bar also hooks to that bracket and I didn’t want them leaning to much. If I was running Antirock sway bar it wouldn’t matter. Also I wouldn’t have been able to go far enough towards the wheel to where this wouldn’t happen.

And the main reason I didn’t put them more outboard is, this was the first long arm I’ve installed and if something came up like hitting the body mount bolts, I didn’t want RK to have any excuse not to warranty something because I changed something from the instructions.

I honestly don’t think they would bail on me but not knowing for sure I wanted to error on the side of caution……
 

hoag4147

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Lmao….yeah , I could have went a little closer to the wheel with the mounts, in fact Eric ( motto21) told me to when I was installing.

But the sway bar also hooks to that bracket and I didn’t want them leaning to much. If I was running Antirock sway bar it wouldn’t matter. Also I wouldn’t have been able to go far enough towards the wheel to where this wouldn’t happen.

And the main reason I didn’t put them more outboard is, this was the first long arm I’ve installed and if something came up like hitting the body mount bolts, I didn’t want RK to have any excuse not to warranty something because I changed something from the instructions.

I honestly don’t think they would bail on me but not knowing for sure I wanted to error on the side of caution……
Gotcha. Not ever seeing one of these in person wasn’t sure there would be enough room. Just a thought, never considered sway links in the equation. Sounds like other route considering may be best route ??
 
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Roky

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Exact Center review……

I reviewed this in the EC thread but wanted to document it here as it’s part of my build.

I tried 4 different Exact Center stabilizers Saturday, pressures ranging from 67, 87, 110, and 130.

The 67, labeled 75 is a bit light for 37s. It held the center but was so light that I was over correcting trying to keep up with the crown in the road, and going around curves, so IMO don’t even try this one.

The 87 , labeled 100 was real good, it was pretty much identical to the old stock 75 I’ve been running which is really 82 confirmed on scale.

Next the 110 labeled 125, this one is awesome, it was a heavier feel turning off center and getting into the curves was more controlled and I wasn’t as twitchy with the steering wheel. Felt like my Fox ATS.

The last one, the 130 labeled 150. This one is slightly firmer off center and a little quicker return to center but not as much of a difference as between the 100 and 125. The difference is enough to make you think it’s better, but IMO I could run either one of these last two and be happy with it.

I’m going to test the last two off-road and see if there’s a discernible difference. If not then I’ll have to figure out which one I’ll end up with.

My final thoughts on this is that the EC unit is BADASS!! If you’re running 37s and up I recommend using the 125 or 150 psi units, if you like or are used to a heavier feeling steering wheel, if you like a light steering feel, then the 100 will work, but I would suggest not going below 100 with 37s and up……..
Obligatory pic………;)

Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… AE5EE55B-60CF-4D4F-9CAA-E3B8FC6C0831
 
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I reviewed this in the EC thread but wanted to document it here as it’s part of my build.

I tried 4 different Exact Center stabilizers Saturday, pressures ranging from 67, 87, 110, and 130.

The 67, labeled 75 is a bit light for 37s. It held the center but was so light that I was over correcting trying to keep up with the crown in the road, and going around curves, so IMO don’t even try this one.

The 87 , labeled 100 was real good, it was pretty much identical to the old stock 75 I’ve been running which is really 82 confirmed on scale.

Next the 110 labeled 125, this one is awesome, it was a heavier feel turning off center and getting into the curves was more controlled and I wasn’t as twitchy with the steering wheel. Felt like my Fox ATS.

The last one, the 130 labeled 150. This one is slightly firmer off center and a little quicker return to center but not as much of a difference as between the 100 and 125. The difference is enough to make you think it’s better, but IMO I could run either one of these last two and be happy with it.

I’m going to test the last two off-road and see if there’s a discernible difference. If not then I’ll have to figure out which one I’ll end up with.

My final thoughts on this is that the EC unit is BADASS!! If you’re running 37s and up I recommend using the 125 or 150 psi units, if you like or are used to a heavier feeling steering wheel, if you like a light steering feel, then the 100 will work, but I would suggest not going below 100 with 37s and up……..
Obligatory pic………;)

AE5EE55B-60CF-4D4F-9CAA-E3B8FC6C0831.jpeg
Roky
I think to make life easier for Roadmaster I will just ask for two different fills. They take a base thought to be 75 but it is 66lbs if filled per label and then pump it up to requested pressure The
right now I do see as the 130. I will listen to your off road review.
I have a 87 and a 110 I have offer to a guy that had a base 66 that did DW but he has not confirmed he will test yet. We want to ship to some base DW user but there are only two I know of. On my 2018JLR 2dr in the DW video on the RM ad I had the 75lb act maybe reading 82 lbs and that did not DW in many tests after EC install and did DW in 7 out of 7 with no EC. I do think 100 does give a lot of cushion for DW. I do need help deciding. I will release 130 filling first so barring you getting a real issue RM will be able to start as soon as their conversion is complete. I am asking for 200 of 130lbs to start. We have a list, not sure how big it is now.
 

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I reviewed this in the EC thread but wanted to document it here as it’s part of my build.

I tried 4 different Exact Center stabilizers Saturday, pressures ranging from 67, 87, 110, and 130.

The 67, labeled 75 is a bit light for 37s. It held the center but was so light that I was over correcting trying to keep up with the crown in the road, and going around curves, so IMO don’t even try this one.

The 87 , labeled 100 was real good, it was pretty much identical to the old stock 75 I’ve been running which is really 82 confirmed on scale.

Next the 110 labeled 125, this one is awesome, it was a heavier feel turning off center and getting into the curves was more controlled and I wasn’t as twitchy with the steering wheel. Felt like my Fox ATS.

The last one, the 130 labeled 150. This one is slightly firmer off center and a little quicker return to center but not as much of a difference as between the 100 and 125. The difference is enough to make you think it’s better, but IMO I could run either one of these last two and be happy with it.

I’m going to test the last two off-road and see if there’s a discernible difference. If not then I’ll have to figure out which one I’ll end up with.

My final thoughts on this is that the EC unit is BADASS!! If you’re running 37s and up I recommend using the 125 or 150 psi units, if you like or are used to a heavier feeling steering wheel, if you like a light steering feel, then the 100 will work, but I would suggest not going below 100 with 37s and up……..
Obligatory pic………;)

AE5EE55B-60CF-4D4F-9CAA-E3B8FC6C0831.jpeg
That does look good. They may call it nak'd ??
 
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Roky

Roky

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I’ve had a lot of guys ask me about my ramp lately. How tall is it ?, Am I afraid of it tipping/falling over ?, etc….

It’s built out of pressure treated 2 x 12s and it’s 42” tall. As far as it being stable……yes it’s solid as a rock…….This is the best way I can illustrate the stability……..

Jeep Wrangler JL Crystal Rubi build… F896EF9F-2C7B-40DD-AD3C-2E0F8FFE56A1
 

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Exact Center review……

I reviewed this in the EC thread but wanted to document it here as it’s part of my build.

I tried 4 different Exact Center stabilizers Saturday, pressures ranging from 67, 87, 110, and 130.

The 67, labeled 75 is a bit light for 37s. It held the center but was so light that I was over correcting trying to keep up with the crown in the road, and going around curves, so IMO don’t even try this one.

The 87 , labeled 100 was real good, it was pretty much identical to the old stock 75 I’ve been running which is really 82 confirmed on scale.

Next the 110 labeled 125, this one is awesome, it was a heavier feel turning off center and getting into the curves was more controlled and I wasn’t as twitchy with the steering wheel. Felt like my Fox ATS.

The last one, the 130 labeled 150. This one is slightly firmer off center and a little quicker return to center but not as much of a difference as between the 100 and 125. The difference is enough to make you think it’s better, but IMO I could run either one of these last two and be happy with it.

I’m going to test the last two off-road and see if there’s a discernible difference. If not then I’ll have to figure out which one I’ll end up with.

My final thoughts on this is that the EC unit is BADASS!! If you’re running 37s and up I recommend using the 125 or 150 psi units, if you like or are used to a heavier feeling steering wheel, if you like a light steering feel, then the 100 will work, but I would suggest not going below 100 with 37s and up……..
Obligatory pic………;)

AE5EE55B-60CF-4D4F-9CAA-E3B8FC6C0831.jpeg
2/21/2022, Testing is complete we will start the Exact Center Program.
Any Exact Cener present owner is eligible for the exchange program
The trial program will start in 14 days or when we have the stock you want to try. The trial is 7 day free trial of any size offered with any bracket in stock if needed. New product trial users will get the 10% Forum discount those trying a previously used EC will get a 25% discount. All units will be covered by Roadmaster Lifetime limited warranty.
We will have 3 pressures. and a special order option. Sales now and all returns will go through PIWcorp [email protected]
Roadmaster will sell product, but will not do returns or exchanges only PIWcorp can do anything after the sale. For now you can get more information by contacting [email protected] before you order. We will guide you through your purchase so you pick the EC that will fit you now and later.

#1 66.46lbs Sell to any Wrangler owner who wants a base 66.46 lbs 300 newtons. With the understanding, if they developed a DW issue or find they want more pressure they can trade one time at no cost for #2 110 lbs
#2 110 lbs This is for everyone that has a JL Wrangler even mods and RV backing iand the buyer of these can do one free trade up for a #3 140 lbs or trade down for #1 66.46 lbs
#3 140 lbs This is for very serious JL owners but will work for most all JL's. including RV backing If you are serious about doing mods in the future maybe buy #3 understanding you can move down one time.
#4 Special order at $150.00 above base in the pressure of your choice, this could be any pressure between 110 lbs and 500 lbs. (RM will verify minimum and maximum they can do) there will be no trading program for special order buyers
Comment if you like to
If RM approves we will request the new higher pressure product.
[/QUOTE]
I do have approval from RM to do my plan. Custom fills will be $150.00
4 sizes 66lb 110 lb 140 lb and a custom you say the size. One exchange on everything, but the custom fill. If you buy too big or too small and not at top or bottom already you can go up or down to any size we carry.
All sales now will go through PIWcorp all exchanges or trades will go through PIWcorp. RM will not do exchanges. They will put printed info in the package explaining how you contact and get an exchange.
PIWcorp will take the returns and use them for a trial and trade option. You can try at no cost and we will trade with a new buyer at no cost one time. When doing the trial you will have the option of buying your test unit at a discount (the percentage of the discount is not known yet)Trail users can buy a new unit at the normal 10% Forum discount.
We should be up and running in 10 days.
 
 







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