Clicking noise when turning.

[jhern88]

OK, deep breath and stop yelling (using all caps)

That's a good one but let's start with the basics. That means get out the old torque wrench and go over EVERY bolt and make sure it is torqued properly. I've solved many a noise problem that way. Upper and lower control arm bolts, track bar bolts, shock bolts, sway bar links, you name it.

If that fails to solve the problem the next thing to do is take the rear tires off and check the brake calipers to make sure they are properly tightened. Brake pads can make a clicking sound when you go from forward to reverse as they move slightly in position but that doesn't sound like the problem.

Lastly, and I know you don't want to hear this, if you can't figure it out it will eventually get worse where you will know what it is. I'm not joking. I had a noise, chased it all over the front end and could never find it. Then one day I had the doors off and the noise had been getting worse and I heard it but it was coming from the back. Still couldn't find it until I was doing something else and grabbed the back of the Jeep to move myself and VOILA! I found out my upper control arm bolt was loose.

Okay i will do this and let you know and hope is not my rear diff or axle.
Also what is the torque specs for stock jeep wrangler jl?
Rear Upper and Lower control arms stock
Rear Rock crawler adjustable trackbar
Mopar sway bar link
Thanks.

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[mgroeger]

Okay i will do this and let you know and hope is not my rear diff or axle.
Also what is the torque specs for stock jeep wrangler jl?
Rear Upper and Lower control arms stock
Rear Rock crawler adjustable trackbar
Mopar sway bar link
Thanks.

Teach a man to fish...

https://[Banned Site]/showthread.php?1167-JL-WRANGLER-TORQUE-SETTINGS-Quick-Reference-Guide

Click on rear suspension link. You will need to go to Rock Krawler website for their info. Note: If something say 100 ft/lbs 50 degrees torque that means you set your torque wrench to 100 ft/lbs and when the wrench clicks you then turn the bolt another 50 degrees so approximately another 1/8 turn. Think of a clock face... 3 o'clock is 90 degrees, 6 o'clock is 180 degrees, etc... Frankly I don't get this... why not just make it a higher torque setting and be done with it.

I don't think that noise is coming from inside your rear axle at all.

 

[hoag4147]

Teach a man to fish...

https://[Banned Site]/showthread.php?1167-JL-WRANGLER-TORQUE-SETTINGS-Quick-Reference-Guide

Click on rear suspension link. You will need to go to Rock Krawler website for their info. Note: If something say 100 ft/lbs 50 degrees torque that means you set your torque wrench to 100 ft/lbs and when the wrench clicks you then turn the bolt another 50 degrees so approximately another 1/8 turn. Think of a clock face... 3 o'clock is 90 degrees, 6 o'clock is 180 degrees, etc... Frankly I don't get this... why not just make it a higher torque setting and be done with it.

I don't think that noise is coming from inside your rear axle at all.

Beat me to the punch

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/torque-values-for-jeep-jl-wrangler.17791/

 

[jhern88]

OK, deep breath and stop yelling (using all caps)

That's a good one but let's start with the basics. That means get out the old torque wrench and go over EVERY bolt and make sure it is torqued properly. I've solved many a noise problem that way. Upper and lower control arm bolts, track bar bolts, shock bolts, sway bar links, you name it.

If that fails to solve the problem the next thing to do is take the rear tires off and check the brake calipers to make sure they are properly tightened. Brake pads can make a clicking sound when you go from forward to reverse as they move slightly in position but that doesn't sound like the problem.

Lastly, and I know you don't want to hear this, if you can't figure it out it will eventually get worse where you will know what it is. I'm not joking. I had a noise, chased it all over the front end and could never find it. Then one day I had the doors off and the noise had been getting worse and I heard it but it was coming from the back. Still couldn't find it until I was doing something else and grabbed the back of the Jeep to move myself and VOILA! I found out my upper control arm bolt was loose.

Be patient and try not to stress, it's not the end of the world, you will find it.

Do i have to loosen the bolts first then tight and torque?

 

[mgroeger]

Do i have to loosen the bolts first then tight and torque?

No. Just tighten them.

 

[ChattVol]

Do i have to loosen the bolts first then tight and torque?

I followed this..

 

[Stirbo]

Yesterday while taking in my 2018 JLU Moab to the dealer to get 3 parts replaced I came upon this issue that is been documented. The Tech was just pulling into the bay and I needed my old man reading glasses in the Jeep. As I approached I could here the exact thing “Jason” video showed. Never heard that before on my JL. From previously owned front wheel drive vehicles the sound was just like a bad CV joint. I pointed it out to the service manager and the Tech and they both confirmed hearing it. This was not a reported issue from me to the dealer and my service Manager jumped right on it and told me they would look into the problem. I went to the waiting room, and 30 minutes later he came in and told me he didn’t want to see me wait and gave me a brand new rental, (Grand Cherokee), and told me they would give me a call later on when they have an expert look at it. They called that afternoon and said the shop Forman would be on this in the morning. Next morning 9:30am they called and told me the axels were the issue and will be replacing them under warranty. WOW!! Blown away. I will update this when I get the final result.

 

[StovallH]

I had the same clicking noise coming from the passenger side. As I was tightening the ball joint nut it made the same clicking noise and the nut turned a good ways. The clicking sound is no more. I would’ve never figured it out if it wasn’t for this post! Thanks!

 

[JMONEZ]

I had the same clicking noise coming from the passenger side. As I was tightening the ball joint nut it made the same clicking noise and the nut turned a good ways. The clicking sound is no more. I would’ve never figured it out if it wasn’t for this post! Thanks!

Upper or lower?

 

[StovallH]

Upper or lower?

Lower

 

[mgroeger]

Upper or lower?

Lower

 

[johnbyron]

I have a similar issue, but while most people are reporting multiple clicks, I only get one click when doing a sharp turn at low speeds (both directions), for example when I am exiting a parking lot.
It seems to happen 70% of the times.
Here is a video:
I have a 2019 stock JL Sport with all terrain tires.
Does anyone have any ideas on what the cause might be?
I am not sure it's worth going to the dealer just for this, but I also don't want to wait until the next oil change if this is something potentially dangerous.
Thanks!

 

[mgroeger]

I have a similar issue, but while most people are reporting multiple clicks, I only get one click when doing a sharp turn at low speeds (both directions), for example when I am exiting a parking lot.
It seems to happen 70% of the times.
Here is a video:
I have a 2019 stock JL Sport with all terrain tires.
Does anyone have any ideas on what the cause might be?
I am not sure it's worth going to the dealer just for this, but I also don't want to wait until the next oil change if this is something potentially dangerous.
Thanks!

Throw a wrench on the lower ball joints and see if they tighten. Don't forget to take the cotter pin out first.

 

[johnbyron]

Throw a wrench on the lower ball joints and see if they tighten. Don't forget to take the cotter pin out first.

Thanks! I removed the cotter pins (it was a pain as I didn't have the proper tool and one was really twisted) and used a non-torque wrench but they seemed to be pretty tight. Maybe they moved one millimeter or so? Definitely there was no way they would turn enough to move the cotter pin to a different slot.
Unfortunately I didn't have much time to test properly, so tomorrow I will check and let you know if it worked.
Two questions:
1- Should I also check the upper joints?
2- What's the size of the cotter pins and where can I buy them? I would like to replace the twisted one.

 

[mgroeger]

Thanks! I removed the cotter pins (it was a pain as I didn't have the proper tool and one was really twisted) and used a non-torque wrench but they seemed to be pretty tight. Maybe they moved one millimeter or so? Definitely there was no way they would turn enough to move the cotter pin to a different slot.
Unfortunately I didn't have much time to test properly, so tomorrow I will check and let you know if it worked.
Two questions:
1- Should I also check the upper joints?
2- What's the size of the cotter pins and where can I buy them? I would like to replace the twisted one.

If they are loose you would be able to get a lot of turns on it so if you couldn't even move a cotter pin slot then they were good IMO. I would check the upper ones as well. Don't know the cotter pin size but you can take the one you took out to Home Depot or the like and match it up.
If the upper ones don't budge throw a wrench on the shock bolts, sway bar link bolts, control arm bolts (especially the upper ones) etc... and see if anything moves. For control arm bolts you'll need 18, 19, 21, 24mm wrenches/sockets.

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