Baxter Spin On Adapter with E-Torque

[markw365]

I ordered the baxter spin on adapter for my 2021 3.6 e-torque as the dry starts in the morning were driving me bonkers. Kevin contacted me and said it didn't work with the e-torque. I started looking at the issue, and Jeep put the stop start vacuum pump right in front of the oil filter that gets in the way of a spin on filter. I took the pump off, looked at it and figured I could make a bracket to move it forward. Told Kevin I would make an adapter and ordered the spin on adapter. Last night the jeep was due for an oil change, so I installed everything. The adapter is just some 3/8" thick aluminum I had a scrap piece from. The plate itself is 4 13/16 wide by 2 3/8 and 3/8" thick. I used 2 8x1.25 25mm long flange bolts with locknuts and some washers between the pump bracket and plate. We measured the center of the holes at about 3.95" but I used a transfer punch and clamped it together to mark the holes, so YMMV. The plate moves the pump forward 1.25" and gives enough room and thens some to get the filter adapter installed. I've attached some images of the installed setup here.

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[mwilk012]

How are the cold starts sounding now?

 

[CarbonSteel]

What kind of mess will that make pulling the filter?

 

[Gregj]

What kind of mess will that make pulling the filter?

Set up has a check valve to keep the oil in the filter. Also has a schreader valve to blow the oil down before removal to limit the mess. Does it work? ?‍ Hope the OP will keep us posted.
Gregj

 

[CarbonSteel]

Set up has a check valve to keep the oil in the filter. Also has a schreader valve to blow the oil down before removal to limit the mess. Does it work? ?‍ Hope the OP will keep us posted.
Gregj

How will a check valve in the device keep oil in the filter once the filter gasket seal is broken? Answer--it can't.

I would opine that if you don't blow the oil down you will have a filter's worth of oil on top of the engine, but even doing that, you will still likely have a mess.

The remote filter option is a much better design.

 

[Gregj]

How will a check valve in the device keep oil in the filter once the filter gasket seal is broken? Answer--it can't.

I would opine that if you don't blow the oil down you will have a filter's worth of oil on top of the engine, but even doing that, you will still likely have a mess.

That is the purpose of the the air valve, to pressurize the filter to blow the oil out before you loosen it, I am curious if it works or not. I’m sure it will not completely empty the filter but it should reduce the oil left in the filter.
Again, I hope the OP keeps us posted how it works.
Gregj

 

[Beachcomber72]

I ordered the baxter spin on adapter for my 2021 3.6 e-torque as the dry starts in the morning were driving me bonkers. Kevin contacted me and said it didn't work with the e-torque. I started looking at the issue, and Jeep put the stop start vacuum pump right in front of the oil filter that gets in the way of a spin on filter. I took the pump off, looked at it and figured I could make a bracket to move it forward. Told Kevin I would make an adapter and ordered the spin on adapter. Last night the jeep was due for an oil change, so I installed everything. The adapter is just some 3/8" thick aluminum I had a scrap piece from. The plate itself is 4 13/16 wide by 2 3/8 and 3/8" thick. I used 2 8x1.25 25mm long flange bolts with locknuts and some washers between the pump bracket and plate. We measured the center of the holes at about 3.95" but I used a transfer punch and clamped it together to mark the holes, so YMMV. The plate moves the pump forward 1.25" and gives enough room and thens some to get the filter adapter installed. I've attached some images of the installed setup here.

Why is your vehicle having “Dry starts”? Let’s start there…

 

[markw365]

What kind of mess will that make pulling the filter?

None.

 

[Mx5red]

 

[markw365]

I can give you red mx5 setup tips, got one of those too. No oiling issues on those though.

 

[mwilk012]

Why is your vehicle having “Dry starts”? Let’s start there…

It is inherent in the design of the 3.6. There is no anti drianback valve.

 

[CarbonSteel]

None.

Nice; but if I were to go that route, I would use the remote filter version (eliminating the need to blow it out), move the filter completely away from the engine, and use a much larger filter with at least a 99% @ 20 micron efficiency.

 

[Beachcomber72]

It is inherent in the design of the 3.6. There is no anti drianback valve.

That I understand, and this below is not directed at you mwilk012.

In our engine configuration on the 3.6 PUG we don’t need an anti drain-back setup. @Old Dogger said it best several months back on the same subject with his straw in a soda can analogy.

The absolute immediate split second you start the engine and it spins over, it’s lubed by the oil in the crankcase. The lifters absolutely have to have oil on/in them for them to per se “lift” thanks to the immediate oil pressure buildup in that split second. All of this is to an extent, as there are obvious variables to this sequence. Oil passages are not sealed throughout the 3.6 motor and therefore as it’s cranking up it’s basically bleeding/distributing oil everywhere instantly. (Provided the engine has the recommended amount of oil in it). We’re probably talking in the range of 1600-1800 psi or more of oil pressure at startup. I could be off on those numbers though.

There is absolutely zero chance of a fully “dry startup”. (Unless there is internal catastrophic failure). More so especially given the fact that we use modern day synthetic oils every surface is constantly covered in visible oil on the various parts. The surface adherence properties are incredible and long lasting until its sheer molecule levels are diminished.

I’d try to explain further but here’s a “I’m lazy and copied from another source” general understanding for those that may not know engines inner workings compared to those that have an understanding of the process.


***As the camshaft rotates, the camshaft lobe presses on the lifter, which transfers the rotating motion to the valve. This works by either using a pushrod and rocker mechanism or, in the case of overhead camshafts, direct contact with the valve stem or rocker arm.

The lifter needs to become solid for a short period to remove slack from the valvetrain. For this to happen, pressurized oil is supplied to the lifter through oil channels, where it enters the lifter through a small hole in the lifter’s body. This happens when the valve is closed, and the lifter is in a neutral position.

During the camshaft lobe’s lift phase of travel, the lifter piston is compressed, which causes the oil inlet hole to shut. Oil is almost incompressible, so the pressure inside the lifter makes it almost completely solid. This allows the camshaft to transfer its energy to the pushrods while the valvetrain remains tight.

As the camshaft lobe travels through the apex, the lifter’s piston load is reduced. The internal piston then returns to a neutral position, allowing it to refill with oil for the entire process to repeat itself.***

My honest opinion on the so-called “dry start help product” is that it’s 100% a “Snake Oil” gimmick. And I say that specifically in regards to our current production 3.6 PUG engines. I’m not speaking about any other brands or models engines or their design features…

I wish the Jeep/Pentastar engine designers would chime in on this subject once and for all as this subject has plagued the Wrangler world since the inception of the 3.6 pentastar.

***** Also to be fair to the OP, I’m not picking on you at all in any regards. Especially for buying a product you feel suits your issues. If you like it rock it, but we can’t continue to state that this engine has “dry start” issues when it does not. You obviously dislike the slight engine ticking/tapping noise at startup and I get it, lots of owners feel the same as you but trust me it’s not because it’s dry. This mega multi-million dollar designed engine doesn’t have oiling issues *****

 

[CarbonSteel]

Here is something worth reviewing:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/spin-on-oil-filter-adaptor.97534/post-2020062

 

[Tncdrew]

Here is something worth reviewing:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/spin-on-oil-filter-adaptor.97534/post-2020062

Thanks for sharing that!
It's kind of what I suspected all along.

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