I see you went with the white driving combo. I'm debating betwen the driving combo or the spot. How well does the driving combo throw the light at a distance? I'm wondering if these are so powerful that the spot is even necessary?I just did this installation. However, in order to preserve the lights, but still use the aux switches, I created my own wiring harness using a 5 pin relay (Panasonic CB1-T-R-M-12V). @BajaDesigns you may want to create a harness like this to sell to people with a JL + Aux switches, as I'm sure many people will want to do this installation but not want to create their own harness like I did. You'll just have to figure out how/what you want to tap into for the amber back-lighting. You can wire it to another Aux switch or tap into the DRL/Fogs/etc.
Relay wiring (see above for relay model) is as follows:
85: Chassis ground
30: Aux1/40a
86: Aux3/15a
87a: LP9 low beam
87: LP9 high beam
Harness to lights has an additional ground wire (attached to chassis ground, same as relay) and another wire for amber circuit. It's just not terminated at this point, until I figure out what I want to do with it (if anything). I don't have the amber back-light wired right now. I'm debating if I want to tap into the fog lights, DRL, or do something else (I'll test it out later to see how bright it is).
This way, 'Aux 1' turns the LP9s on or off, and 'Aux 3' off == low beam, 'Aux 3' on == high beam. This protects the circuit on the LP9s from being energized on both low and high beam at the same time, which is obviously a no-no and something previous posters had worried about.
I used 12AWG stranded and wrapped in Techflex Insultherm, with heatshrink at all joints. I spliced in (solder joint) for the second headlight off the run for the first. I used self-fusing silicon tape at these joints, as well as to wrap up the relay, which is connected via crimped tab terminals, so it can be removed and replaced if needed. The lights are just bolted onto the JLUR steel bumper using the hardware provided by BD. They work wonderfully.
I live in Virginia and I can't see where you would ever need the spot. The combo shoots out a very long way in my opinion. Farther than I need for sure but i love them.I see you went with the white driving combo. I'm debating betwen the driving combo or the spot. How well does the driving combo throw the light at a distance? I'm wondering if these are so powerful that the spot is even necessary?
On low, it's like stock headlights but with almost physics defying coverage of the front area. On high I have them aimed where there is light beyond where I can make out any detail. There's no need for spot unless you're desert running at night in something that is not a Jeep. You couldn't even begin to get these up to a speed you need more throw.I see you went with the white driving combo. I'm debating betwen the driving combo or the spot. How well does the driving combo throw the light at a distance? I'm wondering if these are so powerful that the spot is even necessary?
I realize this is an old thread, but thanks for this write up. I wired mine just like this and it worked perfectly. I ended up buying a parking lamp/drl tap harness that quadratec sells to wire in the amber backlights. I LOVE how these look. I just about gave myself a tan while aligning the beams.I just did this installation. However, in order to preserve the lights, but still use the aux switches, I created my own wiring harness using a 5 pin relay (Panasonic CB1-T-R-M-12V). @BajaDesigns you may want to create a harness like this to sell to people with a JL + Aux switches, as I'm sure many people will want to do this installation but not want to create their own harness like I did. You'll just have to figure out how/what you want to tap into for the amber back-lighting. You can wire it to another Aux switch or tap into the DRL/Fogs/etc.
Relay wiring (see above for relay model) is as follows:
85: Chassis ground
30: Aux1/40a
86: Aux3/15a
87a: LP9 low beam
87: LP9 high beam
Harness to lights has an additional ground wire (attached to chassis ground, same as relay) and another wire for amber circuit. It's just not terminated at this point, until I figure out what I want to do with it (if anything). I don't have the amber back-light wired right now. I'm debating if I want to tap into the fog lights, DRL, or do something else (I'll test it out later to see how bright it is).
This way, 'Aux 1' turns the LP9s on or off, and 'Aux 3' off == low beam, 'Aux 3' on == high beam. This protects the circuit on the LP9s from being energized on both low and high beam at the same time, which is obviously a no-no and something previous posters had worried about.
I used 12AWG stranded and wrapped in Techflex Insultherm, with heatshrink at all joints. I spliced in (solder joint) for the second headlight off the run for the first. I used self-fusing silicon tape at these joints, as well as to wrap up the relay, which is connected via crimped tab terminals, so it can be removed and replaced if needed. The lights are just bolted onto the JLUR steel bumper using the hardware provided by BD. They work wonderfully.
What bull bar add-on is that? I love how the lights tuck right underneath it, yet it isn’t overwhelming like a big add-on stinger bar.
Thanks for the write up. Using the Baja wiring harness I followed this and for now attached the amber back lighting to Aux4 as its not being used today. I did buy the DRL wiring harness in case I need Aux4 for something else, but for now it is all done.I just did this installation. However, in order to preserve the lights, but still use the aux switches, I created my own wiring harness using a 5 pin relay (Panasonic CB1-T-R-M-12V). @BajaDesigns you may want to create a harness like this to sell to people with a JL + Aux switches, as I'm sure many people will want to do this installation but not want to create their own harness like I did. You'll just have to figure out how/what you want to tap into for the amber back-lighting. You can wire it to another Aux switch or tap into the DRL/Fogs/etc.
Relay wiring (see above for relay model) is as follows:
85: Chassis ground
30: Aux1/40a
86: Aux3/15a
87a: LP9 low beam
87: LP9 high beam
Harness to lights has an additional ground wire (attached to chassis ground, same as relay) and another wire for amber circuit. It's just not terminated at this point, until I figure out what I want to do with it (if anything). I don't have the amber back-light wired right now. I'm debating if I want to tap into the fog lights, DRL, or do something else (I'll test it out later to see how bright it is).
This way, 'Aux 1' turns the LP9s on or off, and 'Aux 3' off == low beam, 'Aux 3' on == high beam. This protects the circuit on the LP9s from being energized on both low and high beam at the same time, which is obviously a no-no and something previous posters had worried about.
I used 12AWG stranded and wrapped in Techflex Insultherm, with heatshrink at all joints. I spliced in (solder joint) for the second headlight off the run for the first. I used self-fusing silicon tape at these joints, as well as to wrap up the relay, which is connected via crimped tab terminals, so it can be removed and replaced if needed. The lights are just bolted onto the JLUR steel bumper using the hardware provided by BD. They work wonderfully.
I am also interested in what bull bar that is.
What winch is that? Is that the Evo or the Zeon? I was planning on getting these lights and the Warn Zeon 10s, but I want to mount them where yours are and am not sure if the 10S is too big to do so.I just did this installation. However, in order to preserve the lights, but still use the aux switches, I created my own wiring harness using a 5 pin relay (Panasonic CB1-T-R-M-12V). @BajaDesigns you may want to create a harness like this to sell to people with a JL + Aux switches, as I'm sure many people will want to do this installation but not want to create their own harness like I did. You'll just have to figure out how/what you want to tap into for the amber back-lighting. You can wire it to another Aux switch or tap into the DRL/Fogs/etc.
Relay wiring (see above for relay model) is as follows:
85: Chassis ground
30: Aux1/40a
86: Aux3/15a
87a: LP9 low beam
87: LP9 high beam
Harness to lights has an additional ground wire (attached to chassis ground, same as relay) and another wire for amber circuit. It's just not terminated at this point, until I figure out what I want to do with it (if anything). I don't have the amber back-light wired right now. I'm debating if I want to tap into the fog lights, DRL, or do something else (I'll test it out later to see how bright it is).
This way, 'Aux 1' turns the LP9s on or off, and 'Aux 3' off == low beam, 'Aux 3' on == high beam. This protects the circuit on the LP9s from being energized on both low and high beam at the same time, which is obviously a no-no and something previous posters had worried about.
I used 12AWG stranded and wrapped in Techflex Insultherm, with heatshrink at all joints. I spliced in (solder joint) for the second headlight off the run for the first. I used self-fusing silicon tape at these joints, as well as to wrap up the relay, which is connected via crimped tab terminals, so it can be removed and replaced if needed. The lights are just bolted onto the JLUR steel bumper using the hardware provided by BD. They work wonderfully.
i have the lp4 clear driving combo mounted on the bull bar and it lights up very well. i do have a pair of lp4 spot coming to replace the a pillar light i have now.I see you went with the white driving combo. I'm debating betwen the driving combo or the spot. How well does the driving combo throw the light at a distance? I'm wondering if these are so powerful that the spot is even necessary?
Jim,I just installed a pair of LP9 combo driving lights over the weekend. I know I'm late to this thread, but still wanted to share how I set up my wiring. I started with the BD wiring harness but got rid of most of it. I wanted to use the relay as a relay is intended to be used. I also wanted to use a single factory Aux switch, not 2 or 3.
So I used the connectors and wires to each light and the relay. I tossed the 3-way switch. I wired the relay as follows:
30: Aux #1/40amp power supply85: Ground86: Jump lead from right headlight high beam wire87: LP9 High Beams87a: LP9 Low BeamsLP9 Yellow Wires: Jump lead from individual right/left turn signal wiresI ended up with a single main power switch, Aux #1. The LP9s are matched up with the factory headlights operationally. With Aux #1 on, I turn on the high beams via the factory stalk and the headlights and LP9s are synced on high. Same with the low beams. The only drawback I've found is with the headlights off and Aux #1 on I can only activate the LP9 high beams by holding the factory turn signal stalk back. The LP9 low beams work fine, but there's no way to actuate the relay (high beams) other than holding the stalk back. That's really not a problem since I can't imagine a scenario where I'd want to use the LP9s and not the headlights.
I also wired the yellow backlight wires to each front turn signal wire individually. Now the backlight flashes simultaneously with the turn signal on each side. They work with the emergency flashers as well.
As far as the LP9s themselves, HOLY CRAP! On low beam, they literally light up the sidewalk on both sides of the street. On high beam, I think the stucco on the house at the end of the block started smoking. I can't wait to use them on the trails I frequent in Southern Colorado.