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Baja Designs LP9 video

ormandj

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Video of my LP9 install on the bumper of my JLUR. It's a lot brighter than the video even lets on; unfortunately the cellphone camera adjusts itself to compensate, but you will still get the idea. It is a huge upgrade, and definitely addresses peripheral lighting quite well, as you will see when I pan.

I just did this installation. However, in order to preserve the lights, but still use the aux switches, I created my own wiring harness using a 5 pin relay (Panasonic CB1-T-R-M-12V). You'll just have to figure out how/what you want to tap into for the amber back-lighting. You can wire it to another Aux switch or tap into the DRL/Fogs/etc.

Relay wiring (see above for relay model) is as follows:
85: Chassis ground
30: Aux1/40a
86: Aux3/15a
87a: LP9 low beam
87: LP9 high beam

Harness to lights has an additional ground wire (attached to chassis ground, same as relay) and another wire for amber circuit. It's just not terminated at this point, until I figure out what I want to do with it (if anything). I don't have the amber back-light wired right now. I'm debating if I want to tap into the fog lights, DRL, or do something else (I'll test it out later to see how bright it is).

This way, 'Aux 1' turns the LP9s on or off, and 'Aux 3' off == low beam, 'Aux 3' on == high beam. This protects the circuit on the LP9s from being energized on both low and high beam at the same time, which is obviously a no-no and something previous posters had worried about.

I used 12AWG stranded and wrapped in Techflex Insultherm, with heatshrink at all joints. I spliced in (solder joint) for the second headlight off the run for the first. I used self-fusing silicon tape at these joints, as well as to wrap up the relay, which is connected via crimped tab terminals, so it can be removed and replaced if needed. The lights are just bolted onto the JLUR steel bumper using the hardware provided by @BajaDesigns

_NotkGJQvtTEylh3U1lzdoR1LQqOi9da6Jg4PR63zksfW7Bcf45ekPEAGVhtJcovObrUiBE2583QD6EjA=w1574-h1180-no.jpg


ZYjijUGEeKVPT5c6Wtac8BNksbUylgMK4sKZRx0FQA68J62tLYE6j_5SWoIjRzXJKqCIWFvILpnW_l1nQ=w1574-h1180-no.jpg


@BajaDesigns thank you for putting out such nice lights.
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pcpopcorn

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Video of my LP9 install on the bumper of my JLUR. It's a lot brighter than the video even lets on; unfortunately the cellphone camera adjusts itself to compensate, but you will still get the idea. It is a huge upgrade, and definitely addresses peripheral lighting quite well, as you will see when I pan.

I just did this installation. However, in order to preserve the lights, but still use the aux switches, I created my own wiring harness using a 5 pin relay (Panasonic CB1-T-R-M-12V). You'll just have to figure out how/what you want to tap into for the amber back-lighting. You can wire it to another Aux switch or tap into the DRL/Fogs/etc.

Relay wiring (see above for relay model) is as follows:
85: Chassis ground
30: Aux1/40a
86: Aux3/15a
87a: LP9 low beam
87: LP9 high beam

Harness to lights has an additional ground wire (attached to chassis ground, same as relay) and another wire for amber circuit. It's just not terminated at this point, until I figure out what I want to do with it (if anything). I don't have the amber back-light wired right now. I'm debating if I want to tap into the fog lights, DRL, or do something else (I'll test it out later to see how bright it is).

This way, 'Aux 1' turns the LP9s on or off, and 'Aux 3' off == low beam, 'Aux 3' on == high beam. This protects the circuit on the LP9s from being energized on both low and high beam at the same time, which is obviously a no-no and something previous posters had worried about.

I used 12AWG stranded and wrapped in Techflex Insultherm, with heatshrink at all joints. I spliced in (solder joint) for the second headlight off the run for the first. I used self-fusing silicon tape at these joints, as well as to wrap up the relay, which is connected via crimped tab terminals, so it can be removed and replaced if needed. The lights are just bolted onto the JLUR steel bumper using the hardware provided by @BajaDesigns

_NotkGJQvtTEylh3U1lzdoR1LQqOi9da6Jg4PR63zksfW7Bcf45ekPEAGVhtJcovObrUiBE2583QD6EjA=w1574-h1180-no.jpg


ZYjijUGEeKVPT5c6Wtac8BNksbUylgMK4sKZRx0FQA68J62tLYE6j_5SWoIjRzXJKqCIWFvILpnW_l1nQ=w1574-h1180-no.jpg


@BajaDesigns thank you for putting out such nice lights.
 

pcpopcorn

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LP6 Pros are not an easy install on a JL with Factory Aux switches
They may be a Rock sponsor but they do not have a plug and Play design
I just bought the LP6 Pros and the LP9 Harness to install in my Rubicon with the factory installed 4 Aux Switches.
I thought this would be a simple 2 wire installation.
It is not!
Now I have a switch on top of my battery cover for High and Low Beams and another Yellow Wire which is for an Amber Back light that goes nowhere!
Called Support twice with 0 Help!
Cool Looking Lights Yes but I would advise sticking with Mopar Lights for simple Plug and Play
OP
Did you find a wire for the amber close to the battery where the harness terminates?
 
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BajaDesigns

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I think Baja Designs Suck for this forum!
They may be a Platinum sponsor but they do not have a plug and Play design
I just bought the LP6 Pros and the LP9 Harness to install in my Rubicon with the factory installed 4 Aux Switches.
I thought this would be a simple 2 wire installation.
It is not!
Now I have a switch on top of my battery cover for High and Low Beams and another Yellow Wire which is for an Amber Back light that goes nowhere!
Called Support twice with 0 Help!
Cool Looking Lights Yes but I would advise sticking with Mopar Lights for simple Plug and Play
OP
Did you find a wire for the amber close to the battery where the harness terminates?
Hi there,

I'm sorry about the lack of support you received. The LP6's are not sold Plug and Play for any vehicle, my apologies about the misunderstanding, I'm not exactly sure where you saw them listed as so.

Currently, there are two ways the lights can be installed:
A) Using the Baja Designs Wiring Harness and Supplied Switch
B) Using the Pre-Wired Connections under the hood

Option B does require extra work from the installer and is a little more complex. You will have to run wiring directly from the underhood wires to the light. You can't use the BD harness with the underhood connection. Looking at the rear of the light you will see:

Screen Shot 2019-03-21 at 5.55.01 PM.png


The Jeep has 4 wires under the hood with the following colors/amperage (info from here):

Brown/Pink Stripe | 40A | Aux 1
Green/Pink Stripe | 40A | Aux 2
Pink/Orange Stripe | 15A | Aux 3
Blue/Pink Stripe | 15A | Aux 4


Often times, the Amber Backlight (Pin 3) will be tied into the OEM parking lights. This allows customers to only use 2 switches inside instead of three. Aux 3 and Aux 4 are what most customers use for this application. One switch will power Low Beam (Pin 1), the other switch will power High Beam (Pin 4).
Note: Do NOT wire Low and High Beam together or run both switches at the same time. This can cause damage to the circuit board.

We do include the opposite-side connector when you purchase the lights, this allows you to run your own wiring from the underhood connections directly to the light.

Sorry again about the confusion. I hope this helps clarify your options for wiring the lights. Please reach out if you need any further assistance.

Baja Designs
www.bajadesigns.com
 

dano689

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Video of my LP9 install on the bumper of my JLUR. It's a lot brighter than the video even lets on; unfortunately the cellphone camera adjusts itself to compensate, but you will still get the idea. It is a huge upgrade, and definitely addresses peripheral lighting quite well, as you will see when I pan.

I just did this installation. However, in order to preserve the lights, but still use the aux switches, I created my own wiring harness using a 5 pin relay (Panasonic CB1-T-R-M-12V). You'll just have to figure out how/what you want to tap into for the amber back-lighting. You can wire it to another Aux switch or tap into the DRL/Fogs/etc.

Relay wiring (see above for relay model) is as follows:
85: Chassis ground
30: Aux1/40a
86: Aux3/15a
87a: LP9 low beam
87: LP9 high beam

Harness to lights has an additional ground wire (attached to chassis ground, same as relay) and another wire for amber circuit. It's just not terminated at this point, until I figure out what I want to do with it (if anything). I don't have the amber back-light wired right now. I'm debating if I want to tap into the fog lights, DRL, or do something else (I'll test it out later to see how bright it is).

This way, 'Aux 1' turns the LP9s on or off, and 'Aux 3' off == low beam, 'Aux 3' on == high beam. This protects the circuit on the LP9s from being energized on both low and high beam at the same time, which is obviously a no-no and something previous posters had worried about.

I used 12AWG stranded and wrapped in Techflex Insultherm, with heatshrink at all joints. I spliced in (solder joint) for the second headlight off the run for the first. I used self-fusing silicon tape at these joints, as well as to wrap up the relay, which is connected via crimped tab terminals, so it can be removed and replaced if needed. The lights are just bolted onto the JLUR steel bumper using the hardware provided by @BajaDesigns

_NotkGJQvtTEylh3U1lzdoR1LQqOi9da6Jg4PR63zksfW7Bcf45ekPEAGVhtJcovObrUiBE2583QD6EjA=w1574-h1180-no.jpg


ZYjijUGEeKVPT5c6Wtac8BNksbUylgMK4sKZRx0FQA68J62tLYE6j_5SWoIjRzXJKqCIWFvILpnW_l1nQ=w1574-h1180-no.jpg


@BajaDesigns thank you for putting out such nice lights.
This wiring setup worked great. Thanks for the write up. On the first try I had a cheap 40a relay which worked until the engine stop/start blew the AUX circuit fuse. Then I bought the 40a CV1-T-R-M-12V relay and it works perfectly. The 2 LP9 Driving/Combo lights are like portable stadium lighting. Unbelievably bright, wide, and a loooooong way past the stock LED headlamp high beams.
 

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American Adventurist

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We LOVE our LP9's! One of our favorite upgrades!

On a previous build, I had a 50 inch light bar on the roof and a 30 inch bar in the grill (Rigid). The LP9's by themselves cast light further, brighter, and WAY better peripheral lighting.

And the amber feature is a good "DRL" option to make sure you are seen.
 
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ormandj

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We LOVE our LP9's! One of our favorite upgrades!

On a previous build, I had a 50 inch light bar on the roof and a 30 inch bar in the grill (Rigid). The LP9's by themselves cast light further, brighter, and WAY better peripheral lighting.

And the amber feature is a good "DRL" option to make sure you are seen.
Did you tap into the DRLs? I'm curious how people are wiring these up, if you did, please snap a few photos and describe the process. Thanks!
 

offcamber

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Here are my LP9 pro's shot from my Mavic 2 Pro with exposure set on manual. The drone was at 30 feet above the road so the lights weren't shining directly at it. I'd say I get really good visibility out about a half mile in front of the Jeep.

 

American Adventurist

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Did you tap into the DRLs? I'm curious how people are wiring these up, if you did, please snap a few photos and describe the process. Thanks!
No, mine are all wired independently with the. Baja Designs wiring harness connecting the LP9’s to my sPOD Bantam
 

DanW

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I've got new LP6 Pro lights sitting in the box. I also have the @BajaDesigns wiring harness. I've got the two options for wiring, but have not made a decision.

Some pros/cons in my mind with options A and B:
  • The biggest issue with Option A...I have a manual transmission and do not see a good way to run this thick wiring bundle that connects to the 3 way switch through the firewall. Anybody have any suggestions? If I can find an acceptable way to get the wire bundle into the cab, this is easily the simplest and quickest way to get these lights fired up.
  • The upside of Option B is that I like the AUX switches (It has the OEM look/feel) and would really love to set them up like @ormandj but I have don't have the level of knowledge and expertise to do a high quality setup like he has done. Hell, I don't even know how to put the plug together or what size wire to use. I can't even find the right Panasonic CB1-T-R-M-12V relay. A Google search turns up what appears to be many versions, some with 4 pins and some with different types/shapes of pins.
  • Another advantage of Option A is that the Baja Designs switch is straightforward in function and I could mount it somewhere in the vicinity of the headlights, making it a shorter and more convenient reach than the Aux switches.
So, if there is a good way through the firewall with a manual transmission, I think Option 1 would be my choice. If not, Option 2 is great, but I would need a lot of help, including photos and links to parts.

For Option B, I'd be willing to pay a pro to wire it up for me, but I have no clue who I'd trust to do this, so I'd really feel better doing it myself if I had the right coaching.

I'm really impressed, btw, with how @ormandj wired his up. I really wish I had that kind of ability!
 

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DanW

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One more thing. Boy do I miss having a Radio Shack store close by!
 

DanW

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I went ahead and wired them up today using the Aux switches. They are AMAZING! I am using Aux 1 for high beam, 2 for low and 3 for backlighting. I still want to set a relay up, though, to keep from having high and low at the same time. It is too easy to do. I'll need some guidance on how exactly to do that, if someone would be so kind as to share.

I'll post pics in "What did you do to your JL Today?"
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