Aux Battery Cables

[SmokyMtnsJeepGirl]

eTorque uses a 48v lithium ion battery pack that is under the body towards the rear, and has special charging components, like a mini version of an EV or hybrid.
The 12v start/stop battery that is troublesome in other models is a small sealed lead acid battery, just like a motorcycle, and has a much shorter lifespan. It does not have a very smart charging system, so they tend to die an early death.
Be happy you have eTorque, it is kind of a strange arrangement, but it gives extra torque and horsepower and has proven to be very reliable. I believe Jeep ditched it because of the cost and complexity, and people just didn't understand why they would want it.

Thanks so much for this info! I do have the start/stop function though so does that make any difference with my aux battery? I dislike the start/stop function so much that I disable it as soon as I crank the engine.

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[ScotM]

That is WONDERFUL news!!!
Do you mind elaborating on the difference between the e-Torque auxiliary battery and the non-e-Torque auxiliary battery in the 3.6L? I would love to know how they differ. Thank you!

Here is a nice article from MetalCliak about it.
https://metalcloak.com/blog/what-is...j2Ofd-NoHG7q5jwgGQAI3glDXvJs_BNEsM2vtzgk3A9BP

 

[VKSheridan]

You didn't run a jumper between N1 and either N2 or N3?

Nope.

After being stranded for a third and final time, I disconnected and removed the auxiliary battery, taped the cable ends and pulled Fuse 42. It’s been running flawless ever since.

 

[Neutrino]

You didn't run a jumper between N1 and either N2 or N3?

You just have to disconnect the Aux battery negative cable at the main battery and pull fuse #42. No jumper is needed if you don't mess with the Aux battery positive cable. Make sure to tape up the removed negative cable. You may still need to push the ESS button... I haven't tested that as I use a Taser to bypass it.

 

[AzCoronaDog]

Thanks so much for this info! I do have the start/stop function though so does that make any difference with my aux battery? I dislike the start/stop function so much that I disable it as soon as I crank the engine.

The start/stop with eTorque uses the 48v eTorque battery, so no worries there.
I used this module on my '24 JLU, and it has worked flawlessly so far to turn ESS off every time I start the Jeep: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDK8435G?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1
I also bought this extension cable to make it easier to remove if I ever need warranty service: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D46HGFGL?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
And this cable to be able to use my OBDII scan tool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WYFMN62?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

 

[SmokyMtnsJeepGirl]

The start/stop with eTorque uses the 48v eTorque battery, so no worries there.
I used this module on my '24 JLU, and it has worked flawlessly so far to turn ESS off every time I start the Jeep: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDK8435G?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1
I also bought this extension cable to make it easier to remove if I ever need warranty service: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D46HGFGL?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
And this cable to be able to use my OBDII scan tool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WYFMN62?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

Thank you!

 

[mbrose1994]

Nope. After being stranded for a third and final time, I disconnected and removed the auxiliary battery, taped the cable ends and pulled Fuse 42. It’s been running flawless ever since.

My 2018 JLU Sahara may be a bad unicorn.
After doing the AuxBatt NEG cable pull, and Fuse 42, pull, it continues to do the "Electrical Storm". And, worse bummer, I got the latest PCM update TSB: 18-039-22. Which included an ABS upgrade.

Dealer charged over $250 for that. I guess only safety TSBs are free. But how is "Electrical Storm" not a safety issue?

Dealer suggested may be CAN bus issue. Which I suspect is a honey pot for the Dealer without any value to me.

Anyone out there ever fixed a defective CAN bus?

 

[alphawolff]

You didn't run a jumper between N1 and either N2 or N3?

The primary battery connects back to N1 through the aux batteries positive cable. So long as the two cables coming off that positive terminal are left connected, you don't need to actually run a jumper.

 

[AzCoronaDog]

The primary battery connects back to N1 through the aux batteries positive cable. So long as the two cables coming off that positive terminal are left connected, you don't need to actually run a jumper.

Only when the power control relay is engaged, which it will be until ESS is in Stop.
See the diagram in the very first post. I have the full factory repair manual for my '24, and I can confirm this wiring diagram is correct.
So if you pull fuse F42 and remove the aux battery, N1 will NEVER be powered, which is a problem.
However, if you always disable ESS, either manually or through a bypass unit or programming, and leave F42 in place, everything will still work fine without the aux battery.

 

[Mguy]

Only when the power control relay is engaged, which it will be until ESS is in Stop.
See the diagram in the very first post. I have the full factory repair manual for my '24, and I can confirm this wiring diagram is correct.
So if you pull fuse F42 and remove the aux battery, N1 will NEVER be powered, which is a problem.
However, if you always disable ESS, either manually or through a bypass unit or programming, and leave F42 in place, everything will still work fine without the aux battery.

Some error here. The PCR (in the diagram) is a normally closed relay. Accordingly, when F42 is pulled the control circuit is disabled, the relay will remain in the closed position, and N1 will always receive power.

 

[mbrose1994]

[QUOTE="AzCoronaDog, post: 3148582]
N1 connects directly to the aux battery ...
N2 and N3 both connect to the main battery ...
[/QUOTE]

Confused:

• Diagram at top of thread shows N3 connected to AuxBatt POS cable.
• And is On/Off by a relay. So, N3 sometimes has power, sometimes not.

Questions:

1. What is powered by N3?
2. When N2 jumped to N1, then PrimBatt powers the stuff that AuxBatt was powering during ESS stopped state?
3. If N2 jumped to N3, what is fallout from N3 being 100% powered instead of sometimes powered and sometimes not powered?

 

[AzCoronaDog]

Some error here. The PCR (in the diagram) is a normally closed relay. Accordingly, when F42 is pulled the control circuit is disabled, the relay will remain in the closed position, and N1 will always receive power.

My error! I did not see that the relay is normally closed.
So without a jumper, you DO need to pull F42, otherwise, if the ESS goes into Stop, power will be lost to N1.
I am going to check if pulling F42 will log a trouble code. When my warranty is up, I plan on doing a jumper and removing all the cables and junk that is no longer needed.

 

[AzCoronaDog]

[QUOTE="AzCoronaDog, post: 3148582]
N1 connects directly to the aux battery ...
N2 and N3 both connect to the main battery ...

Confused:

• Diagram at top of thread shows N3 connected to AuxBatt POS cable.
• And is On/Off by a relay. So, N3 sometimes has power, sometimes not.

Questions:

1. What is powered by N3?
2. When N2 jumped to N1, then PrimBatt powers the stuff that AuxBatt was powering during ESS stopped state?
3. If N2 jumped to N3, what is fallout from N3 being 100% powered instead of sometimes powered and sometimes not powered?

[/QUOTE]

1. N3 is only used to charge the aux battery. It is connected to the main battery through a 150a fuse, and connects to the aux battery through the normally closed power control relay.
2. Correct.
3. There is no reason to jump N2 to N3, they are both connected to the main battery, N2 directly, and N3 through a 150a fuse. So N3 is already powered 100% of the time, unless the 150a fuse is blown. If you meant N1 jumped N2 or N3, (aux battery always connected to the main battery) the only fallout could be overcharging of the aux battery if it is left in place. If the aux battery is removed, no issues.

 

[SadRobot]

I finally deleted my aux battery since the battery tray was out of the Jeep anyway. Instead of taping up the aux neg to the battery side I just removed the entire negative cable out of the bundle.

Then taped up the positive side and left it sitting in the aux battery box under the fuse box. The other side of the positive I hooked back up to the fuse array. Pulled Fuse 42 and Jeep started up no problem.

 

[VKSheridan]

My 2018 JLU Sahara may be a bad unicorn.
After doing the AuxBatt NEG cable pull, and Fuse 42, pull, it continues to do the "Electrical Storm". And, worse bummer, I got the latest PCM update TSB: 18-039-22. Which included an ABS upgrade.

Dealer charged over $250 for that. I guess only safety TSBs are free. But how is "Electrical Storm" not a safety issue?

Dealer suggested may be CAN bus issue. Which I suspect is a honey pot for the Dealer without any value to me.

Anyone out there ever fixed a defective CAN bus?

Michael, the auxiliary delete gets rid of a secondary battery known to have the propensity to discharge the main battery. It does not address parasitic draw beyond what *might* arise from the auxiliary battery nor correct any specific electrical issues beyondwhats mentioned.

Near the aux battery box and accessible through the R/H inner fender cover is a grey harness connector thats about 2.5” in length. It is known to take corrosion and create the Christmas dashlights.. Check that by opening it up, clean it with electrical contact cleaner and then seal the face with dielectric grease (used sparingly).

As for CANBUS, open your glovebox and remove it. At the base of the open is a CANBUS terminal strip about 5”x1” in dimension and a dozen or so wires coming out the top. That terminal block is also known for abnormal resistance that disrupts the CANBUS network (assumed to be the result of corrosion). Not saying it‘s the diagnosis for your Jeep, just saying several forum members have had to replace that terminal to correct electrical anomalies.

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