Aux Battery Cables

[mbrose1994]

My 2018 JLU Sahara has entered the CRAZY stage!
Short history:

• Owned 9 months, 88K miles. Good for 7 months.
• TPMS constant error alert. Consensus that original TPMS batteries failed.
• Camera funky sometimes, but comes back next day.

CONFUSED:

• Pulled N1, the Aux Batt POS cable.
• Jeep dash is DEAD, no power anywhere on Jeep?

Do I have to pull the N3 Aux Batt POS cable too?

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[AzCoronaDog]

There are things that run from only from the aux battery at the N1 connection, so if you remove the aux battery, you need to jump N1 to N2.
The jumper needs to be big enough to handle the amperage, or you risk a fire.

 

[ScotM]

Leave all the positive cables in place, and just disconnect the aux ground

 

[ScotM]

That is required to remove all power from the vehicle, but it will not work if the aux battery is dead/removed.
The power control relay is not always engaged, so without the aux battery, there is no power on N1.

I’m not sure I understand what the OP is trying to do, bypass the aux or remove it.? If you want to treat it like there is no aux battery, remove the aux negative, and the control module, along with its cables, then run a jumper from N1 to N3. Tape off the sensor that was plugged into the control module. I did that a couple of months back no issues at all, no aux battery, no extra cables or control module . I used a 15” 2AWG with 90 degree cable ends.

 

[AzCoronaDog]

I’m not sure I understand what the OP is trying to do, bypass the aux or remove it.? If you want to treat it like there is no aux battery, remove the aux negative, and the control module, along with its cables, then run a jumper from N1 to N3. Tape off the sensor that was plugged into the control module. I did that a couple of months back no issues at all, no aux battery, no extra cables or control module . I used a 15” 2AWG with 90 degree cable ends.

Sorry, I was commenting about JUST removing the negative cable, which is all you put in your previous post, as that alone will not work. As you mention in this post, if the aux battery is removed or dead, you need the jumper between N1 and N2. Then you just need to be sure the aux + and - cables are removed or cannot short on anything.

 

[ScotM]

The N3 to N1 will work as well. Once I scrapped all the cables N3 was open, so I used that one.

 

[AzCoronaDog]

The N3 to N1 will work as well. Once I scrapped all the cables N3 was open, so I used that one.

Yes, N3 will work too, it has 150A fuse, N2 is direct to the primary battery.

 

[mbrose1994]

... treat it like there is no aux battery, remove the aux negative,
and the control module,

• remove control module? Is that the Power Control Relay in the diagram?

along with its cables, then run a jumper from N1 to N3.

• ??? N1 and N3 are both AuxBatt POS terminals. With POS AuxBatt ends off, what does connecting them do?

And, AzCoronaDog post says jump N2 to N1.
Looks like PrimBatt then supplies power to N1 stuff that the AuxBatt used to?

If I jumped N2 to N1, <and> jumped N1 to N3, seems like a problem?

 

[AzCoronaDog]

And, AzCoronaDog post says jump N2 to N1.
Looks like PrimBatt then supplies power to N1 stuff that the AuxBatt used to?

If I jumped N2 to N1, <and> jumped N1 to N3, seems like a problem?

N1 connects directly to the aux battery, and supplies power to stuff when the start / stop system has the engine stopped (and the power control relay is open, separating the 2 batteries)

N2 and N3 both connect to the main battery, N2 is direct, N3 has a 150A fuse inline and is used as the input power the aux battery charge relay.

So to bypass the aux, you can connect N1 to either N2 or N3. Connecting to both would not make any difference, it's just redundant. Once N1 is jumped to either, the aux battery can (and should) be disconnected or removed, and it's cables removed or insulated from possible shorting.

I am not sure if the power control relay, that is used to charge the aux battery and is powered by N3, can be removed without causing a computer module to report a fault. (The answer is probably in another post somewhere, I suppose I should look... LOL)

I am leaving the stupid aux battery in my '24 until the warranty is up, then it will go away quicker than an Iranian nuclear site!

 

[VKSheridan]

My Jeep has been without an auxiliary battery for almost 5 years now. I disconnected the cables at the auxiliary battery and taped them off, pulled fuse 42 and that’s it. I did not mess with any of the “N” fuses and have had no dead dash events.

 

[SmokyMtnsJeepGirl]

I'm new to the JL generation, so I didn't know much about the engines except that I didn't want diesel or the 2.0. So, I went with the 3.6 with e-Torque. BIG mistake. Had I known at purchase what I know now about not being able to bypass the aux because of the e-Torque, I would have NEVER bought the e-Torque engine. I'm now constantly worried about about that damn aux battery
From what I've read, there doesn't appear to be any way around bypassing the auxiliary battery because of the e-Torque.

 

[ScotM]

I'm new to the JL generation, so I didn't know much about the engines except that I didn't want diesel or the 2.0. So, I went with the 3.6 with e-Torque. BIG mistake. Had I known at purchase what I know now about not being able to bypass the aux because of the e-Torque, I would have NEVER bought the e-Torque engine. I'm now constantly worried about about that damn aux battery
From what I've read, there doesn't appear to be any way around bypassing the auxiliary battery because of the e-Torque.

Don’t worry, the Etorque system is very reliable. You don’t have the aux battery that everyone is complaining about.

 

[SmokyMtnsJeepGirl]

Don’t worry, the Etorque system is very reliable. You don’t have the auxiliary battery that everyone is complaining about.

That is WONDERFUL news!!!
Do you mind elaborating on the difference between the e-Torque auxiliary battery and the non-e-Torque auxiliary battery in the 3.6L? I would love to know how they differ. Thank you!

 

[AzCoronaDog]

My Jeep has been without an auxiliary battery for almost 5 years now. I disconnected the cables at the auxiliary battery and taped them off, pulled fuse 42 and that’s it. I did not mess with any of the “N” fuses and have had no dead dash events.

You didn't run a jumper between N1 and either N2 or N3?

 

[AzCoronaDog]

That is WONDERFUL news!!!
Do you mind elaborating on the difference between the e-Torque auxiliary battery and the non-e-Torque auxiliary battery in the 3.6L? I would love to know how they differ. Thank you!

eTorque uses a 48v lithium ion battery pack that is under the body towards the rear, and has special charging components, like a mini version of an EV or hybrid.
The 12v start/stop battery that is troublesome in other models is a small sealed lead acid battery, just like a motorcycle, and has a much shorter lifespan. It does not have a very smart charging system, so they tend to die an early death.
Be happy you have eTorque, it is kind of a strange arrangement, but it gives extra torque and horsepower and has proven to be very reliable. I believe Jeep ditched it because of the cost and complexity, and people just didn't understand why they would want it.

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