- Banned
- #16
Thanks for the reply! Yes, I would like the link.
There you go sir:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-aux-battery-bypass.17293/
Please know that it pertains to the 3.6L JL, not the 2.0.
I wrote some long winded pieces here on how I think you can get around that charge time. I believe it necessary because ESS battery has to have a minimum charge for an engine crank will even be attempted, and this ESS battery appears to be tested by the rig in isolation of the main batteryThis fact finding mission started with my batteries being discharged to the point of needing a 20 minute charge from a battery charger.
In short, the technique involves, with a strong enough charger, hooking directly to the ESS battery and attempting a crank right thereafter. With your charger in a high amp setting (if available) and hooked up in parallel to the ESS battery, you may be able to trick the rig into thinking the ESS battery has power, and initiate the crank. Once that crank begins, both batteries, ESS and main, are connected back in parallel to both work on the crank...and an ESS battery connected alone, charged (or perhaps connected in parallel to a high amp charger) can crank the 3.6L.
A fully charged main battery though, with the ESS battery disconnected or dead won't even try to crank. And a high amp charger hooked to the main battery, is separated from the ESS battery during this pre-crank test of the ESS battery--hence the need to sit by a let the charge occur.
The technique involves hooking the positive of your charger to terminal N1 on the PDS (power distribution center: black box under hood closest to front passenger) N1's the terminal closest to the front and driver in the box.
The negative of the charger does to the collection of cables connected to the negative side of main battery, AFTER THOSE CABLES ARE DISCONNECTED FROM THE MAIN BATTERY.
You reattach those cables back to the main battery after a successful crank.
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Your 3.L JL batteries are almost always connected in parallel but for ESS events and a test of the ESS battery prior to a crank request, be it a cold one by the user pressing the start button with the foot on the break, or the end of an ESS event: prematurely done by the rig or the user taking their foot off the brake at a stop light.
When you are parked sir to you have access to "shore" based 120VAC to run a trickle charger on the rig? I tend to do this just to keep the ESS battery topped off so the ESS system can work. I'm a short distance driver and often don't spend enough time behind the wheel for the alternator to charge the batteries.I have an @Engel refrig/freezer that I leave plugged in and running 24/7. I have done that for several months with no issue. I have been driving it daily up until then. I let it sit for 2 1/2 days plugged in.
Coolers are not an area in which I have much knowledge. Is this cooler one where you can set the voltage cut off? If not, does the cooler turn off at 12V? What the specs for cutoff?I was led to believe that the cooler would shut itself off at 12v as a safety feature. I guess I was wrong. Or maybe 12v is not enough to start the 3.6L.
Batteries need more than 12V are else they are mostly depleted. I don't know at what level a crank won't happen in the 3.6L.
There are plenty of people with defective batteries who got them swapped out under warranty.I am gathering all the info I can before I start pointing fingers.
Is the cooler out of calibration, is it because of the dual battery for the ESS?
It is. And you know what the best accessory for a dual battery system is IMHO, a hook lock.Is it possible to go to an aftermarket dual battery system and delete the aux battery?
A booster pack? If so it may have not been strong enough, or even if strong enough it might have been largely depleted during the 20 minute wait.A jump box did not work.
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