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Auto Hold and ESS

Rahneld

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Thanks for the reply! Yes, I would like the link.

There you go sir:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-aux-battery-bypass.17293/

Please know that it pertains to the 3.6L JL, not the 2.0.

This fact finding mission started with my batteries being discharged to the point of needing a 20 minute charge from a battery charger.
I wrote some long winded pieces here on how I think you can get around that charge time. I believe it necessary because ESS battery has to have a minimum charge for an engine crank will even be attempted, and this ESS battery appears to be tested by the rig in isolation of the main battery

In short, the technique involves, with a strong enough charger, hooking directly to the ESS battery and attempting a crank right thereafter. With your charger in a high amp setting (if available) and hooked up in parallel to the ESS battery, you may be able to trick the rig into thinking the ESS battery has power, and initiate the crank. Once that crank begins, both batteries, ESS and main, are connected back in parallel to both work on the crank...and an ESS battery connected alone, charged (or perhaps connected in parallel to a high amp charger) can crank the 3.6L.

A fully charged main battery though, with the ESS battery disconnected or dead won't even try to crank. And a high amp charger hooked to the main battery, is separated from the ESS battery during this pre-crank test of the ESS battery--hence the need to sit by a let the charge occur.

The technique involves hooking the positive of your charger to terminal N1 on the PDS (power distribution center: black box under hood closest to front passenger) N1's the terminal closest to the front and driver in the box.

The negative of the charger does to the collection of cables connected to the negative side of main battery, AFTER THOSE CABLES ARE DISCONNECTED FROM THE MAIN BATTERY.

You reattach those cables back to the main battery after a successful crank.


~~~~~~~~


Your 3.L JL batteries are almost always connected in parallel but for ESS events and a test of the ESS battery prior to a crank request, be it a cold one by the user pressing the start button with the foot on the break, or the end of an ESS event: prematurely done by the rig or the user taking their foot off the brake at a stop light.

I have an @Engel refrig/freezer that I leave plugged in and running 24/7. I have done that for several months with no issue. I have been driving it daily up until then. I let it sit for 2 1/2 days plugged in.
When you are parked sir to you have access to "shore" based 120VAC to run a trickle charger on the rig? I tend to do this just to keep the ESS battery topped off so the ESS system can work. I'm a short distance driver and often don't spend enough time behind the wheel for the alternator to charge the batteries.

I was led to believe that the cooler would shut itself off at 12v as a safety feature. I guess I was wrong. Or maybe 12v is not enough to start the 3.6L.
Coolers are not an area in which I have much knowledge. Is this cooler one where you can set the voltage cut off? If not, does the cooler turn off at 12V? What the specs for cutoff?

Batteries need more than 12V are else they are mostly depleted. I don't know at what level a crank won't happen in the 3.6L.


I am gathering all the info I can before I start pointing fingers.
There are plenty of people with defective batteries who got them swapped out under warranty.

Is the cooler out of calibration, is it because of the dual battery for the ESS?

Is it possible to go to an aftermarket dual battery system and delete the aux battery?
It is. And you know what the best accessory for a dual battery system is IMHO, a hook lock.;)


A jump box did not work.
A booster pack? If so it may have not been strong enough, or even if strong enough it might have been largely depleted during the 20 minute wait.
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Mojito!

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Good Morning! So much great information. I don't have time to digest it completely. I am getting ready to go to the Jeep Invasion. I have printed it out so that when I can steal a moment to read. Hoping to get some answers about the cooler specs at the show.
There you go sir:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-aux-battery-bypass.17293/

Please know that it pertains to the 3.6L JL, not the 2.0.



I wrote some long winded pieces here on how I think you can get around that charge time. I believe it necessary because ESS battery has to have a minimum charge for an engine crank will even be attempted, and this ESS battery appears to be tested by the rig in isolation of the main battery

In short, the technique involves, with a strong enough charger, hooking directly to the ESS battery and attempting a crank right thereafter. With your charger in a high amp setting (if available) and hooked up in parallel to the ESS battery, you may be able to trick the rig into thinking the ESS battery has power, and initiate the crank. Once that crank begins, both batteries, ESS and main, are connected back in parallel to both work on the crank...and an ESS battery connected alone, charged (or perhaps connected in parallel to a high amp charger) can crank the 3.6L.

A fully charged main battery though, with the ESS battery disconnected or dead won't even try to crank. And a high amp charger hooked to the main battery, is separated from the ESS battery during this pre-crank test of the ESS battery--hence the need to sit by a let the charge occur.

The technique involves hooking the positive of your charger to terminal N1 on the PDS (power distribution center: black box under hood closest to front passenger) N1's the terminal closest to the front and driver in the box.

The negative of the charger does to the collection of cables connected to the negative side of main battery, AFTER THOSE CABLES ARE DISCONNECTED FROM THE MAIN BATTERY.

You reattach those cables back to the main battery after a successful crank.


~~~~~~~~


Your 3.L JL batteries are almost always connected in parallel but for ESS events and a test of the ESS battery prior to a crank request, be it a cold one by the user pressing the start button with the foot on the break, or the end of an ESS event: prematurely done by the rig or the user taking their foot off the brake at a stop light.



When you are parked sir to you have access to "shore" based 120VAC to run a trickle charger on the rig? I tend to do this just to keep the ESS battery topped off so the ESS system can work. I'm a short distance driver and often don't spend enough time behind the wheel for the alternator to charge the batteries.



Coolers are not an area in which I have much knowledge. Is this cooler one where you can set the voltage cut off? If not, does the cooler turn off at 12V? What the specs for cutoff?

Batteries need more than 12V are else they are mostly depleted. I don't know at what level a crank won't happen in the 3.6L.




There are plenty of people with defective batteries who got them swapped out under warranty.

Is the cooler out of calibration, is it because of the dual battery for the ESS?



It is. And you know what the best accessory for a dual battery system is IMHO, a hook lock.;)




A booster pack? If so it may have not been strong enough, or even if strong enough it might have been largely depleted during the 20 minute wait.
 

Mojito!

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Good Morning! So much great information. I don't have time to digest it completely. I am getting ready to go to the Jeep Invasion. I have printed it out so that when I can steal a moment to read. Hoping to get some answers about the cooler specs at the show.
Well, I been out of pocket for a bit. I have done a bit of research.Did not get much info on the cooler at the show. Oh my, the many different ways to separate me from my money.

I have changed the way I operate for now. If she sits for a day or two I connect to shore power.

My research has led me to going with a dual battery system. The one I have my mind set on is from Genesis Offroad.

https://www.genesisoffroad.com/category-s/124.htm

It deletes the auxiliary battery completely. That way I only have to remove the battery box and fuse box once.

My only concern is how it will function with the main and auxiliary cables connected to the same battery.

I have already purchased a Jackery 500.

Thanks for all the great info. It certainly set me in the right direction.
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