ARB BASE Rack Installation on JLU Wrangler

[ArtC]

Boondoggler:

Beautiful on your custom head liner.

In my case, I ended up not adding additional washers on the crush tubes, as it raised the mount points of the hardtop, and I didn't want the hardtop bolt to bend the fiberglass. I was lucky that I was doing an intricate healiner design & install that used both sound deadening material under the headliner using thermal insulation on 5mm underlayment boards (cheap and better than MDFs). The dense sound deadening material also acted as leveling of the many non-uniform fiberglass depths of the hardtop.

Boondoggler:

Beautiful job on the headliner!

Art

Sponsored

 

[Boondoggler]

Boondoggler:

Beautiful on your custom head liner.

Boondoggler:

Beautiful job on the headliner!

Art

Thanks Art!!

I think my favorite part was repurposing simple magnets and metal strap ties (76 cents @) to have a removable mount of the headliner to the sound deadening of the hard top.

Thomas

 

[Boondoggler]

Would you mind posting some photos of the custom tools and tent mounting? I've really been struggling with how to mount a tent can't find any examples anywhere. So far the potential solution I've come up with is to combine 8 ARB narrow bridge plate sets with 4 front runner quick mounts. Curious to hear what other solutions have been employed.

https://arbusa.com/roof-racks/arb-base-rack/roof-rack-accessories/
https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/quick-release-tent-mount-kit-mkii.html

Sure! Looks like we've all done the same research as the options are just incredibly limited. Unfortunately, how to mounting a large RTT was not a use-case the engineers took into consideration when they designed the racks. For instance, had I not opted for the larger rack 71x51 to pair with the std mounting kit/rails, there would have been no way to fully mount the air deflector (of the BaseRack). The RTT MUST be mounted to the rack before the rack is installed onto the rails. Once that occurs, there'd be no way to attach the deflector to the rails since the primary mount of the deflector is to the rack.

I really only found 2 options for mounting my James Baroud (Hard Shell XXL) to the Rack. Give me a day or 2 to gather the pics & info, and I'll post it here for ya.

Thomas

 

[ArtC]

I just returned from a 3,000 mile, two week trip to Death Valley, The Grand Canyon, Zion, Capitol Reef and Bryce national parks in my 2021 JL 4xe. The overall MPG was 20.1 (without any electrical charging) including driving from below see level to over 9,000 feet with winds up to 50mph and driving at up to 80+ depending on the limit. We did about 100 miles of simple dirt roads but nothing technical. Wind noise was noticeable with strong side winds. For reference I did not have anything on the rack for this trip. I highly recommend visiting these national parks if you have not. We spent 3 days at each with the exception of Death Valley and I think that is the perfect amount of time to really get to experience each of them. There are endless off road opportunities in Utah and Arizona and I could spend the rest of my life exploring them and never see them all.

 

[Boondoggler]

I just returned from a 3,000 mile, two week trip to Death Valley, The Grand Canyon, Zion, Capitol Reef and Bryce national parks in my 2021 JL 4xe. The overall MPG was 20.1 (without any electrical charging) including driving from below see level to over 9,000 feet with winds up to 50mpg and driving at up to 80+ depending on the limit. We did about 100 miles of simple dirt roads but nothing technical. Wind noise was noticeable with strong side winds. For reference I did not have anything on the rack for this trip. I highly recommend visiting these national parks if you have not. We spent 3 days at each with the exception of Death Valley and I think that is the perfect amount of time to really get to experience each of them. There are endless off road opportunities in Utah and Arizona and I could spend the rest of my life exploring them and never see them all.

Now THAT, is one frame-able shot if I've ever seen one!!

Awesome!!

I've got the exact same 4xe JLUR from the looks of things. Are you running stock rims/tires? What bumper do you have?

 

[TylerDurden7]

I just returned from a 3,000 mile, two week trip to Death Valley, The Grand Canyon, Zion, Capitol Reef and Bryce national parks in my 2021 JL 4xe. The overall MPG was 20.1 (without any electrical charging) including driving from below see level to over 9,000 feet with winds up to 50mpg and driving at up to 80+ depending on the limit. We did about 100 miles of simple dirt roads but nothing technical. Wind noise was noticeable with strong side winds. For reference I did not have anything on the rack for this trip. I highly recommend visiting these national parks if you have not. We spent 3 days at each with the exception of Death Valley and I think that is the perfect amount of time to really get to experience each of them. There are endless off road opportunities in Utah and Arizona and I could spend the rest of my life exploring them and never see them all.

That's awesome, I'm jealous haven't had a two week vacation in forever, sounds like it was an amazing trip, can't wait to get out there. Also cool to hear the 4xe did so well on that long trip.

 

[ArtC]

Now THAT, is one frame-able shot if I've ever seen one!!

Awesome!!

I've got the exact same 4xe JLUR from the looks of things. Are you running stock rims/tires? What bumper do you have?

I should have added that I am running the stock tires and wheels. The suspension works so well that I am hesitant to add a lift and bigger tires. I am running the optional Mopar steel bumper with the end caps removed. The winch is a Warn EVO 12K.

 

[Boondoggler]

I should have added that I am running the stock tires and wheels. The suspension works so well that I am hesitant to add a lift and bigger tires. I am running the optional Mopar steel bumper with the end caps removed. The winch is a Warn EVO 12K.

Thanks!!

I know the 4xe stock already have higher rated springs and stands several inches higher than a non-4xe JLU, but all the weight that will be added with my mods, I wasn't sure if I needed a suspension lift; so I'm also waiting to see how the rig does on the rough trails on a full load before making a final decision. The (any) steel bumpers, winch & spare-tire reinforcement quickly adds up in weight so I'm prioritizing on other stuff first.

 

[Boondoggler]

Would you mind posting some photos of the custom tools and tent mounting? I've really been struggling with how to mount a tent can't find any examples anywhere. So far the potential solution I've come up with is to combine 8 ARB narrow bridge plate sets with 4 front runner quick mounts. Curious to hear what other solutions have been employed.

https://arbusa.com/roof-racks/arb-base-rack/roof-rack-accessories/
https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/quick-release-tent-mount-kit-mkii.html

Tyler,

I found 1 or 2 other "quick mounts" in addition to Front Runner, but the quick mounts still have a specific mounting interface, and I don't believe the Bridge Plates from ARB is compatible with any of them. Luckily, I decided early on to go away from the quick mounts for several reasons.
(1) it adds additional height between the rack and the bottom of the RTT. And the the added height, it may make reducing wind noise more difficult.
(2) I wasn't comfortable with the strength and stability of the RTT with how the quick mounts attaches to the T-Rails. And even if you add 2 more (6 total instead of 4), just not sure that's good enough to stand the rigors of rough trails. My tent is 160 lbs (static), the dynamic load on the trails will be far far higher. If yours will be light,, perhaps it isn't a big of a problem.

I also decided against the std clamping style (even if the clamps were long enough), as it may still slide side to side given it's just sandwiched plates. This is especially true if you need to cut the provided clamps in 2 to be able to bookend the rack slats.

I ultimately went with a mounting method that essentially made the rack and the RTT the same load dynamics. If you find yourself in the same needs as me, I'd be happy to share that with you.

But to your inquiry about tools.
Due to the low profile of the BaseRack, it was necessary to mount the rack to the RTT first (upside down). Since the RTT fully covers the rack, the only access is between the hardtop and the bottom of the rack (and only from the front and rear since the rails are closed off on the sides). so there were 2 major challenges. These issues are not limited to BaseRack; it's brought about whenever the RTT is larger than the rack, and needs to be mounted to the rack first....except when a quick mount will be used.

(1) How does one thread the nuts onto the bolts that are underneath when clearance is less than 2 inches? Rail height is 2" and the bolt will extend down past the top of the rail when the stud plate (ARB's) is positioned for mounting.
(2) Once threaded, how does one tighten? Tried various wrench extenders in the market, but none held the wrench steady enough to use.

So I had to make my own. I simply used scraps I had laying around. Mine needed to be LONG as my RTT is nearly 90".

First I marked the proper bolt configuration of each stud plate so the bolts are both easily reachable, accounting for the angle of access from front/back/right/left. The white lines point to the holes the 2 bolts (per plate). Don't want bolts blocking each other.

For threading, I first bent a nail so the M8 nut will spin in its cradle without getting stuck and glued it to the long scrap wood. Then I found a piece of rubber to be able to grip the nut edge and spin it. The angles made it much easier to perform the task when using both together.

Once the nut can be threaded to have resistance, I needed to extend a wrench long enough to tighten the nut. I elected to use a ratchet wrench. Like I said, I couldn't find anything that would work...even the low profile sockets and impact wrench extenders was not low profile enough to get under the bolt and the top of the roof.

Stability of the wrench was paramount, so I cut out a notch in a 2" -ish piece of wood that would snugly fit the pipe that could house my wrench. The notch is to hold the wrench steady, so it fits just the wrench handle width and depth. Then with a shim, it held the wrench in that groove and can't move. Then using a "Trashing" knot, compressed the wood around the wrench so nothing can move.

Here is a short video on how it would work. I demonstrated on the end mount (which doesn't need the tool, but the middle and front ones does).
Apologies for the dirty Jeep, it's been sitting outside under a tree. The weighted red box simulates the actual rack slats that will keep the plate and bolt moving upwards.

Video was too big to upload here, so here's a link I hope you'll be able to access and download (it's a .Mov so apologies if you're on Windows).

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y2onq35ffdg96hp/BaseRack_Tool4_InUse.mov?dl=0

Hope this helps.

 

[Boondoggler]

Would you mind posting some photos of the custom tools and tent mounting? I've really been struggling with how to mount a tent can't find any examples anywhere. So far the potential solution I've come up with is to combine 8 ARB narrow bridge plate sets with 4 front runner quick mounts. Curious to hear what other solutions have been employed.

https://arbusa.com/roof-racks/arb-base-rack/roof-rack-accessories/
https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/quick-release-tent-mount-kit-mkii.html

Couldn't find any pictures of the mounted rack w/ RTT and the rack w/ RTT is hanging up on my ceiling hoist and not currently attached to the rails. But this is the illustration that caused me to move up to 71 x 51 rack. Without it, there would be too much of the tent hanging over the std rail/rack creating a fulcrum that can't be safe for any fiberglass tent. My RTT is 90" long

Here is my pre-mounted RTT-to-Rack with 10 fastening points that will have no forward & back nor side to side play. The std rack only has 5 slats, so you can imagine the amount of overhang the RTT would have off the rack.

 

[TylerDurden7]

Tyler,

I found 1 or 2 other "quick mounts" in addition to Front Runner, but the quick mounts still have a specific mounting interface, and I don't believe the Bridge Plates from ARB is compatible with any of them. Luckily, I decided early on to go away from the quick mounts for several reasons.
(1) it adds additional height between the rack and the bottom of the RTT. And the the added height, it may make reducing wind noise more difficult.
(2) I wasn't comfortable with the strength and stability of the RTT with how the quick mounts attaches to the T-Rails. And even if you add 2 more (6 total instead of 4), just not sure that's good enough to stand the rigors of rough trails. My tent is 160 lbs (static), the dynamic load on the trails will be far far higher. If yours will be light,, perhaps it isn't a big of a problem.

I also decided against the std clamping style (even if the clamps were long enough), as it may still slide side to side given it's just sandwiched plates. This is especially true if you need to cut the provided clamps in 2 to be able to bookend the rack slats.

I ultimately went with a mounting method that essentially made the rack and the RTT the same load dynamics. If you find yourself in the same needs as me, I'd be happy to share that with you.

But to your inquiry about tools.
Due to the low profile of the BaseRack, it was necessary to mount the rack to the RTT first (upside down). Since the RTT fully covers the rack, the only access is between the hardtop and the bottom of the rack (and only from the front and rear since the rails are closed off on the sides). so there were 2 major challenges. These issues are not limited to BaseRack; it's brought about whenever the RTT is larger than the rack, and needs to be mounted to the rack first....except when a quick mount will be used.

(1) How does one thread the nuts onto the bolts that are underneath when clearance is less than 2 inches? Rail height is 2" and the bolt will extend down past the top of the rail when the stud plate (ARB's) is positioned for mounting.
(2) Once threaded, how does one tighten? Tried various wrench extenders in the market, but none held the wrench steady enough to use.

So I had to make my own. I simply used scraps I had laying around. Mine needed to be LONG as my RTT is nearly 90".

First I marked the proper bolt configuration of each stud plate so the bolts are both easily reachable, accounting for the angle of access from front/back/right/left. The white lines point to the holes the 2 bolts (per plate). Don't want bolts blocking each other.

For threading, I first bent a nail so the M8 nut will spin in its cradle without getting stuck and glued it to the long scrap wood. Then I found a piece of rubber to be able to grip the nut edge and spin it. The angles made it much easier to perform the task when using both together.

Once the nut can be threaded to have resistance, I needed to extend a wrench long enough to tighten the nut. I elected to use a ratchet wrench. Like I said, I couldn't find anything that would work...even the low profile sockets and impact wrench extenders was not low profile enough to get under the bolt and the top of the roof.

Stability of the wrench was paramount, so I cut out a notch in a 2" -ish piece of wood that would snugly fit the pipe that could house my wrench. The notch is to hold the wrench steady, so it fits just the wrench handle width and depth. Then with a shim, it held the wrench in that groove and can't move. Then using a "Trashing" knot, compressed the wood around the wrench so nothing can move.

Here is a short video on how it would work. I demonstrated on the end mount (which doesn't need the tool, but the middle and front ones does).
Apologies for the dirty Jeep, it's been sitting outside under a tree. The weighted red box simulates the actual rack slats that will keep the plate and bolt moving upwards.

Video was too big to upload here, so here's a link I hope you'll be able to access and download (it's a .Mov so apologies if you're on Windows).

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y2onq35ffdg96hp/BaseRack_Tool4_InUse.mov?dl=0

Hope this helps.

Hi Thomas,

Thank you for sharing your solutuion with photos and video much appeciated. The bolt starter solution is genius, I've used the metal pipe trick at the end of the wrench before on engine & axle work before to acheive extra torque, cool to see that being employed here for extension. My tent is smaller and lighter than yours, mine is 130 lbs, and 60x48 closed. I've never heard of clamp mounts sliding side to side, that is a bit surprising given the tension they have, and force required to move the whole apparatus, I'll need to research that more. I don't plan on doing anything too extreme with RTT mounted though. Good luck on wrapping up your build, it looks fantastic!

P.S. I just got my narrow bridge plate kit, I found the differences in weight specs per configuration rather interesting.

 

[mnicho29]

I

No arguments from here!! Although, if you do not need the dynamic load & rough trail capability of a rack (fitted with a large RTT such as the James Baroud hardshell tents), the other options (Front Runner, Rhino) may be a better option.

I have had to fashion tools just to secure the platform/RTT to the rails; as ARB even suggested, many large tents will require you to first mount the platform to the upside down RTT then install the combined unit onto the rails. As you can imagine, with the low profile, this was near impossible (since your only access to do that is the height of the rails from the roof).

All that said, the ARB Base Rack is the strongest, lightest and least visually noticeable rack to host my RTT and allow me to take all that onto rough back-country trails without fear of "incidents".

I would steer well clear of Rhino. I know they market like it’s built for such a purpose… but when you check the fine print, they won’t handle an RTT properly. Not sure about the US market, but here in Australia, Rhino rack is fast becoming a brand with a bad name, due to so many failures. Anything from racks falling off off-road, or simply ripping off the roofs of cars when a truck goes by. Not to mention, the garbage load ratings. I’d only go front runner or base rack.

 

[pcsquared]

This thread is super helpful as I just ordered an ARB Base Rack as well! I'm eyeing the RoofNest Condor Overland.

I was curious what's the width and depth of the horizontal bars on the 61x51?

 

[ArtC]

I recently was given a Weather Tech gift certificate and I wound up ordering a set of full sun shades. When I received them I realized that I need some way to store them other than just rolling them up. I considered a Blue Ridge Overland attic but I didn't want to impact the passenger compartment. I then started looking on Amazon and found this $10 net. It turns out that it is the perfect size for the rear of a Jeep hard top. It attaches with (4) round buttons and stretches tight. I did need to add (1) additional button that I 3D printed and secured with 3M VHB tape and a screw but at $10 for the whole package, it probably makes more sense to just order (2) nets. Here are some pictures of the final install. I have included the gcode for the extra button in case anyone needs it. This is definitely a great low cost mod.

 

[Boondoggler]

I


I would steer well clear of Rhino. I know they market like it’s built for such a purpose… but when you check the fine print, they won’t handle an RTT properly. Not sure about the US market, but here in Australia, Rhino rack is fast becoming a brand with a bad name, due to so many failures. Anything from racks falling off off-road, or simply ripping off the roofs of cars when a truck goes by. Not to mention, the garbage load ratings. I’d only go front runner or base rack.

I hear ya; off roading on difficult trails adds so much more stress and load on the whole assembly...in all directions....not just a downward vertical load. That's why I really like the welded platform of the BaseRack (rather than pieces lego'd together). The cross section of the BaseRack slats are also much more rugged and structurally strong.

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