ARB BASE Rack Installation on JLU Wrangler

[ArtC]

I was sold by the same video as Tyler. I was able to see Marco's 392 at Overland Expo West and he did a fantastic job on his build. I just received my rack and had the same packing issue a Tyler. Luckily the only damage is cosmetic to the air dam. I will say that ARB instructions are some of the worst in the industry. I like their products and have purchased two compressors and even their new pressure control module. In each case the included instructions were very hard to read and they all were missing some piece of hardware that I needed for my installation. Without the color PDF that Tyler posted I don't know if I would have attempted to install it.

ARB, if you are reading this, you seriously need to up your game on instructions, you are WAY behind your competition. You should include lots of pictures in COLOR and show exploded views of the assembly showing bolts, washers and nuts like just about everyone else.

So far I have the holes drilled and and the hard top back on (after taking it off 3 times). Having a buddy is really helpful on this install.

Issues:

1) I have Hot Heads head liners installed which are not compatible for the front roll bar mounting brackets. With the brackets installed the hard top would not sit flush. Off the top went again and I removed the head liners which unfortunately damaged the tape mounting bars where the staples gave way instead of the double sided tape. I am 3D printing spacers to replace the two damaged mounting bars and plan to screw them to head liner and then add VHB tape. I called Mark at Hot Heads and he sent a great video of how to cut the head liners down. Hot Heads is a first class operation, I highly recommend them. For reference, I needed to remove 5 1/2" on each the outside of each panel.

The video can be found here:


2) The included 30mm M10 bolts are not long enough to go through the head liner in the back of the jeep. I have 45mm and 50mm replacements scheduled to be delivered tomorrow and I will post which is the correct length. McMaster-Carr and Bold Depot are both good places to find hardware that is not available in your local big box store, I chose McMaster-Carr which is a little more expensive but they will arrive sooner.

3) For some reason, the ARB roll bar mounting plate on the passenger side had a 1/4" gap between the hard top and the bracket. To make up the gap I used some washers on the roll bar side. I am not sure if this an ARB or Jeep manufacturing issue.

4) The kit does not come with silicone to seal the rubber pads that sit between the hard top and mounting rails. I am using Permatex 81158 Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant, 3 oz. Tube from Amazon costing $4.95. ARB; for the cost of this rack surely you can afford to include some silicone.

I plan to finish the install tomorrow or Saturday and I will post pictures.

Art

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[Boondoggler]

I was sold by the same video as Tyler. I was able to see Marco's 392 at Overland Expo West and he did a fantastic job on his build. I just received my rack and had the same packing issue a Tyler. Luckily the only damage is cosmetic to the air dam. I will say that ARB instructions are some of the worst in the industry. I like their products and have purchased two compressors and even their new pressure control module. In each case the included instructions were very hard to read and they all were missing some piece of hardware that I needed for my installation. Without the color PDF that Tyler posted I don't know if I would have attempted to install it.

ARB, if you are reading this, you seriously need to up your game on instructions, you are WAY behind your competition. You should include lots of pictures in COLOR and show exploded views of the assembly showing bolts, washers and nuts like just about everyone else.

So far I have the holes drilled and and the hard top back on (after taking it off 3 times). Having a buddy is really helpful on this install.

Issues:

1) I have Hot Heads head liners installed which are not compatible for the front roll bar mounting brackets. With the brackets installed the hard top would not sit flush. Off the top went again and I removed the head liners which unfortunately damaged the tape mounting bars where the staples gave way instead of the double sided tape. I am 3D printing spacers to replace the two damaged mounting bars and plan to screw them to head liner and then add VHB tape. I called Mark at Hot Heads and he sent a great video of how to cut the head liners down. Hot Heads is a first class operation, I highly recommend them. For reference, I needed to remove 5 1/2" on each the outside of each panel.

The video can be found here:


2) The included 30mm M10 bolts are not long enough to go through the head liner in the back of the jeep. I have 45mm and 50mm replacements scheduled to be delivered tomorrow and I will post which is the correct length. McMaster-Carr and Bold Depot are both good places to find hardware that is not available in your local big box store, I chose McMaster-Carr which is a little more expensive but they will arrive sooner.

3) For some reason, the ARB roll bar mounting plate on the passenger side had a 1/4" gap between the hard top and the bracket. To make up the gap I used some washers on the roll bar side. I am not sure if this an ARB or Jeep manufacturing issue.

4) The kit does not come with silicone to seal the rubber pads that sit between the hard top and mounting rails. I am using Permatex 81158 Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant, 3 oz. Tube from Amazon costing $4.95. ARB; for the cost of this rack surely you can afford to include some silicone.

I plan to finish the install tomorrow or Saturday and I will post pictures.

Art

Everything you (Art) said is absolutely true! Thanks for itemizing the issues (so far) for others.

I am making my own headliner (w/ thermal & sound deadening) so I will be adjusting the template for the Base Rack bracket. Question regarding the need for 45mm & 50mm bolts; is that to accommodate the existing Hothead headliner? Are the 30mm M10 bolts too short even w/o the headliners?

From an engineering standpoint, I'm still not sure (nor comfortable) with the welded assembly post sliding up the collar to support the dynamic and static weight specs. This is not a generic fit kit...it was supposed to be for the 18+ JL. I have email from ARB tech (in writing) that the post is supposed to slide up the collar.... just in case something goes haywire on the trails. Although for my own peace of mind, I will probably add a section of tube (inside the collar) to extend the post all the way to the bottom of the bracket (no need for welding as the collar will hold the 2 pipe sections as a join).

I ended up ordering the 3M 4200 (marine grade) for the rubber seals.

Can't wait to see your finish install and see what else you run into.

Thanks,

Thomas

BTW, we have the exact same 4xe... color & all ?

P.S. With all the added weight on top of the heavy base weight of the 4xe, what are your thoughts on bumpers & winch? Seems like very heavy adds given the 6400 GVWR.

 

[TylerDurden7]

I also have a 2021 JLUR. I opted for the 72x51 platform due to the size of my RTT.

I did (AM) having issues with the install. As you've said, there is very little (none) online on the install or review of this roof rack. But before you use the instructions you received by email, that is not the updated installation document. According to the ARB rep, there is some differences related to hole drilling & locations. I've attached the updated version for you.

My box came all jumbled up (see pic), but after doing an inventory, only the rubber gaskets were missing, so the store (4 Wheel Parts) were able to get the missing parts sent to me. However, the huge issue I am having is the Rear Support Arm (welded assembly they call it) is 4-5 inches short of the hardtop (see pics). It has been 10 days since I've notified 4 Wheel Parts, but so far they have only forwarded my email to ARB (seems really weird that the "largest auto part retailer" have no way to reach their ARB contact except through email.

So before drilling any holes in your jeep, walk thru the instructions and double check your rear support arm will reach the roof. They tried to tell me that it's supposed to slide up the clamp of the bracket. But there is no way that is correct as no tiny clamp is going to support 285 lbs of dynamic weight spec and prevent the vertical post in the clamp to slide down (which will destroy the roof).

Thomas

I contacted ARB though their webpage, and an tech support person got back to me, and confirmed that the arm is used for several vehicle types and is in fact meant to be telescoped up. I looked more carefully at the parts and the kinetic force of the clamp against the larger diameter tube, plus the tapping screw does in fact provide a strong bond. Not sure if you were able to confirm that as well with your installation.

 

[Boondoggler]

I contacted ARB though their webpage, and an tech support person got back to me, and confirmed that the arm is used for several vehicle types and is in fact meant to be telescoped up. I looked more carefully at the parts and the kinetic force of the clamp against the larger diameter tube, plus the tapping screw does in fact provide a strong bond. Not sure if you were able to confirm that as well with your installation.

That was what ARB tech replied as well. And in absolute numbers they might be right in terms of strength; it just gives me the queezies as an engineer. If it was a bolt or strong pin I might feel otherwise, but a tiny screw? It's better safe than sorry, so inserting a tube (or same diameter metal section) beneath the telescoped post will give me a better peace of mind.

What I would be very interested to hear is, given the low profile, whether mounting a hardshell RTT becomes a nightmare. Back about 6 months ago ARB Rep said they are working on a RTT adapter to make mounting a RTT easier; it was suppose to target a fall release, but still haven't heard anything from them.


Thomas

 

[TylerDurden7]

That was what ARB tech replied as well. And in absolute numbers they might be right in terms of strength; it just gives me the queezies as an engineer. If it was a bolt or strong pin I might feel otherwise, but a tiny screw? It's better safe than sorry, so inserting a tube (or same diameter metal section) beneath the telescoped post will give me a better peace of mind.

What I would be very interested to hear is, given the low profile, whether mounting a hardshell RTT becomes a nightmare. Back about 6 months ago ARB Rep said they are working on a RTT adapter to make mounting a RTT easier; it was suppose to target a fall release, but still haven't heard anything from them.


Thomas

Yea, I was wondering about those same points. It's really quite a tall order to figure out which rtt (so many out there) and mounting solution will work well with the limited mounting hardware the rack has available atm. Which tent are you thinking of going with?

 

[ArtC]

Everything you (Art) said is absolutely true! Thanks for itemizing the issues (so far) for others.

I am making my own headliner (w/ thermal & sound deadening) so I will be adjusting the template for the Base Rack bracket. Question regarding the need for 45mm & 50mm bolts; is that to accommodate the existing Hothead headliner? Are the 30mm M10 bolts too short even w/o the headliners?

From an engineering standpoint, I'm still not sure (nor comfortable) with the welded assembly post sliding up the collar to support the dynamic and static weight specs. This is not a generic fit kit...it was supposed to be for the 18+ JL. I have email from ARB tech (in writing) that the post is supposed to slide up the collar.... just in case something goes haywire on the trails. Although for my own peace of mind, I will probably add a section of tube (inside the collar) to extend the post all the way to the bottom of the bracket (no need for welding as the collar will hold the 2 pipe sections as a join).

I ended up ordering the 3M 4200 (marine grade) for the rubber seals.

Can't wait to see your finish install and see what else you run into.

Thanks,

Thomas

BTW, we have the exact same 4xe... color & all ?

P.S. With all the added weight on top of the heavy base weight of the 4xe, what are your thoughts on bumpers & winch? Seems like very heavy adds given the 6400 GVWR.

Thomas:

I have the factory steel bumpers and I installed an Warn EVO 12,000 pound which. That may sound like like overkill but with a GVW of 6,400 pounds it is less than 2X. I have been watching my weight carefully and with me, a homemade drawer system, ARB twin compressor, tools and recovery gear I am at 5,840 not including the roof rack. I definitely need to think backpacking not overlanding.

I am not planning on using a roof top tent (as much I would like to) because they all weigh around 150 pounds and I would rather use the weight elsewhere.

I received the new bolts and with the Hot Head head liners I needed 45mm bolts in the back, I will use the ARB supplied bolts in the front. I am painting the bolts and nuts black now so it looks like final assembly will be this weekend. Another suggestion to ARB, since everything else is back, supply black hardware. I will weigh it again once it is all back together.

Question, did you paint your brackets white or were you able to order them that way?

Art

 

[Boondoggler]

Yea, I was wondering about those same points. It's really quite a tall order to figure out which rtt (so many out there) and mounting solution will work well with the limited mounting hardware the rack has available atm. Which tent are you thinking of going with?

Hi Tyler,

I went with a James Baroud (found an incredible deal); it's big, so that's the reason I went with the longer platform; the platform is welded, so the overhang on the rails will still provide tent base additional support compared to the tent base extending the 61" platform (the tent base is 89").

The reason I am interested in the adapter (supposedly) being designed by ARB is that their tent uses the same mounting tracks as the James Baroud, so that would be ideal as the bracket would be designed by ARB for Base Rack platforms.

 

[Boondoggler]

Thomas:

I have the factory steel bumpers and I installed an Warn EVO 12,000 pound which. That may sound like like overkill but with a GVW of 6,400 pounds it is less than 2X. I have been watching my weight carefully and with me, a homemade drawer system, ARB twin compressor, tools and recovery gear I am at 5,840 not including the roof rack. I definitely need to think backpacking not overlanding.

I am not planning on using a roof top tent (as much I would like to) because they all weigh around 150 pounds and I would rather use the weight elsewhere.

I received the new bolts and with the Hot Head head liners I needed 45mm bolts in the back, I will use the ARB supplied bolts in the front. I am painting the bolts and nuts black now so it looks like final assembly will be this weekend. Another suggestion to ARB, since everything else is back, supply black hardware. I will weigh it again once it is all back together.

Question, did you paint your brackets white or were you able to order them that way?

Art

Hi Art,

My priorities involve extended overlanding, so the comfort of a good RTT was critical, so that's where myhe GVWR is being allocated. I put together a spreadsheet of weight add as well as weight subtracted (such as the removal of back seats & swap out of the sliders for running boards), etc. I think ultimately I will have to use aluminum bumpers when I do that mod...but not yet.

So the 45mm bolts are sufficient in the back (w/ headliners vs notching out the headliners). It's interesting that the provided bolts are too short even w/o the headliners. But for the front, doesn't the bracket also overlap headliner space?

Yes, I painted the interior fit kit white to match the roll bars and other white finish inside the Jeep; it's personal taste, but the space "feels" more open versus black iron all over the place inside I even painted the hardtop bolts since they are used to anchor the bottom bracket to the support arm.

Would love to see your pics once you finish. It is so cold here that even working in a garage poses challenges (especially priming & painting)...so my progress is slower than I had hoped. The cold is even slowing down the custom headliners (w/ sound deadening & thermal insulation) as I need the top off and upside down to custom fit the headliner board and apply the sound treatment.

 

[ArtC]

I just finished installing the rack which turned out to be a bigger project than I was expecting. As noted earlier in this thread, the included instructions leave a lot to be desired. I have edited the PDF instruction sheet to give my recommendations which includes the tools I used and the my recommended installation sequence.

Here are some pictures to give you an idea on what is entailed:

My Hot Head head liners interfered with the top and bracket so I removed them. They will go back in minus 5.5" on either side once I get the new double sided tape.

Once the holes were drilled per the instructions I used silicone to attach the rubber pads to the hard top and let them set overnight. The next day I put a bead of silicone around on each of the pads and despite my best efforts, I would up getting it all over me.

I was doing this part of the installation by myself so I built a simple jig to hold the roof rail while attaching it to avoid a mess with the silicone. The rail is top heavy and naturally wants to roll to the inside and the jig holds it in place. You could easily do the same with another person.

Installing the front air dam after installing the rack turned out be a real pain because there is no way to directly access a fastener because the roof rack is in the way. I had so much trouble that I wound up super gluing the washer that goes between the roof rail and air dam in place so it would not slip away. A better approach in my opinion is to connect the air dam to the side rails before the rack is installed an then remove the freedom panels and stand on the seats while you connect the 4 brackets to the air dam.

In order to tighten the rear bolts my arms were not long enough to hold the wrench and tighten the inside button bolt so I zip tied the combo wrench to the roof rack which worked pretty well.

Tightening these bolts took some force and I used a 6mm hex socket and a 3/8" ratchet. Note there is not enough clearance to use a ratcheting box wrench or socket on the top.

As you can see the 10mmx45 bolt extends further than it needs to. If I was doing this again I would use a 40mm long bolt.

Overall the rack looks clean on the Jeep.

I have noticed some wind noise without the air dam and the Hot Heads head liners. As soon as I get the parts to re-install the head liners I will do another test as well as weighing the Jeep again. Please let me know if you have any questions or would like more pictures.

 

[Boondoggler]

I just finished installing the rack which turned out to be a bigger project than I was expecting. As noted earlier in this thread, the included instructions leave a lot to be desired. I have edited the PDF instruction sheet to give my recommendations which includes the tools I used and the my recommended installation sequence. ....

Great pics Art!! Thanks for sharing!!

Couple of quick questions:
(1) just behind the most forward front bracket hole (in the roll bar), the weld joints doesn't allow the bracket to sit flush with the roll bar. I'm thinking of using washers between the bracket & roll bar to level out the bracket. From your pictures, it appears you might have done the same...did you?
(2) does the air deflector attaches to both the platform and the side rails?

 

[ArtC]

Boondoggler:

I think using some washers is the answer. I used them on the passenger side because in my case the mounting bracket had a large gap between it and the hard top. My hard top was not as flat as the mount rails so it did deflect down when everything was tightened but I still needed the washers.

The air deflector attached to the outside of the roof rails and then to (4) brackets on the roof rack itself. I my case, getting the air deflector over both roof rails and the needed washer was very tight. This is why I am suggesting that you test this fit when installing the roof rails. I made it work by gluing the inside washer but it was painful. I have noted this and a number of other issues in the updated PDF.

 

[TylerDurden7]

I finally got around to doing my install, in summary I'm pleased with the overall look. The install was however quite the project as ArtC had mentioned earlier, and frankly a real pain in some of the tight spaces. My install spanned over several partial days mostly due to rain and some uncertainty from things I encountered during the install (details farther below).

Installation Notes:
14-15. Once blades are positioned equally on both sides, tighten the nuts to provide some tension on the blade.

- An issue I ran into on this step is that the blade has a good amount of play to it (even with the 3 forward bolts tight), so there is some uncertainty about the precise place to mark the holes in the back for drilling. The solution I came up with was to put the rack on the top and attach to both blades to guarantee precision for remaining hole marking. This was a good deal of extra work but worked out well.


17. Loosely assemble rear mount bracket and welded tube assembly using clamp and M8 hardware supplied in kit.

- An issue I ran into here was that the rear mounting bracket corner intersects with the fiberglass top seam and is not flush with the roof. My concern was that the resulting uneven roof contact will crack my top when the bolts are torqued down to the specified high torque value. So I purchased some 2 inch by 1/8 aluminum bar, to make some spacer shims for flush contact. I measured by using a piece a paper to trace the shape outline. Additionally, I wrapped the shim in black fabric tape for looks and more grip.

- A tool that really helps with these rear brackets is a post jack.

22. Put blades back on and fasten with SS M8x35mm button heads along with m8 nylocks. Make sure to put the button head side on the interior side.

- I found masking taping the underside of the bolts to keep them in place until nuts are were applied at the top was useful.


- You can only get so much torque with a box wrench, in order to torque these bolts to specific amounts in tight spaces this torque extender tool is the perfect tool.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09D9PN4Q7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- The install document lists 57 lb ft of torque for the top bolts, which IMO is a scary amount of torque. I'm woried that it might crack the hardtop, so I have an email out ARB tech support to confirm, hopefully they will get back to me. In the meantime I just have them at less than 57.


Wind Deflector

- I could not get the from surface screws to catch the backing brackets, so what I did is use a mirror, flashlight and a toothpick to line up the holes (with stud plate & bracket piece unattached) before attempting the screw, once screw was caught, I then re-attached the stud plate this was a bit of fun.

 

[ArtC]

James, your install looks great. Thanks for the tip on the torque extender, I have never seen one of those. The spacer you added makes good sense, In my case I drilled through the hot heads liner so I missed this.

Art

 

[Lightguy]

James, your install looks great. Thanks for the tip on the torque extender, I have never seen one of those. The spacer you added makes good sense, In my case I drilled through the hot heads liner so I missed this.

Art

Looks amazing! Thanks for the detailed pictures & step by step on the installation challenges. Nothing you said turns me off this rack, but your comments help with prep & reduced stress about the install. Thank again!!

 

[Boondoggler]

Yea, I was wondering about those same points. It's really quite a tall order to figure out which rtt (so many out there) and mounting solution will work well with the limited mounting hardware the rack has available atm. Which tent are you thinking of going with?

Hey Tyler,

Don't know if I ever responded to you. Due to my intentions of being more extended overland stints, I've prioritized the comfort and need for quick setup and faster leaving a place, especially in inclement weather. I had settled in on a James Baroud Evasion XXL (anticipating 2 adults w/ pets, and assuming will be doing lot work inside the tent. I ended up finding a new JB Grand Raid for an insane deal from a private party, so that settled the RTT.

I have seen the "new" adapter mounting brackets from ARB, and they really are of no use for a large RTT with vertical T-Slot rails. With the Base Rack slats being so wide, I have come up with an scheme. It would be very easy to cut the top clamps and make longer bottom clamps from aluminum, but given the size of the RTT and the need to navigate rocky trails, I wanted something more sturdy & stable, but it requires drilling holes in the rack slats and using the base rack mounting plates at the bottom. I'm ok with that, as the rack choice was always single use; for the RTT. I'm in the process of doing that, so once I finish, I'd be happy to share my thoughts.

BTW, just saw your install...EXCELLENT stuff, as was Art's. Knowledge sharing "Rocks"!!!

Thomas

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