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Anyone have any ideas what’s going on here?? (Engine Noise)

SirPedro

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21 JLU 2.0, completely stock and pretty much babied. Regular maintenance always done.

Bought new, just hit two years ownership with zero issues except cracked windshield.

Started up this morning and engine light came on and message for maintenance for start stop. (I’ve read this is a common issue).

Continued on my way to run errands. Get to the first stop light and notice the Jeep feels like it’s shaking. I pull over and it’s shaking and feels like it may stall out. The engine was making a gurgling sound. (See video)

Returned home and parked until I can get it to the dealership.

Still under warranty, but any thoughts on this issue or has anyone experienced something similar?

Thanks

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The Last Cowboy

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Both batteries, main an aux, shot. You don’t have enough voltage to run all the systems.
 

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DaltonGang

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Well, at least it has a good beat to it. Sounds like the turbo is acting up. But, what do I know, I own a 3.6.
I any case, I would tow it to a shop, and not drive or start it anymore.
 

Windshieldfarmer

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I wouldn’t drive it. May be shot batteries or perhaps something far more serious. Sounds like a huge misfire…. Keep us posted…my 2020 2.0l has NOT had that problem (yet).
 

MauiSteve

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Love to hear what this turns out to be.
 

DaltonGang

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Also, check to see if your hoses to and from the Turbo, and Intercooler are attached well. Easy to narrow it down. Take a 3 foot section of cut water hose, put one end up to your ear, and move the other around the engine.
 

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SirPedro

SirPedro

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Update:

Had the jeep towed to the dealer this morning and just got a call and asked where I have been taking it for oil changes. I told them they did the first one and I’ve done the rest as per the maintenance schedule myself. I use the Kirkland brand full synthetic and a Fram premium filter.

Service tech says he suspects incorrect oil was used. (Which is not the case)…however, I asked how that has anything to do with the electronic start/stop since that’s the first warning I got on the dash and then the engine light stayed on.

Service tech says there’s no issue with start/stop and it checked out fine and everything else was fine. And they wanted to do an oil and filter change.

They went ahead with the oil change and cleared the codes and said it was fine.

Codes were:

P000B-BANK 1 CAMSHAFT 2 POSITION SLOW RESPONSE
P0016-CRANKSHAFT/CAMSHAFT TIMING MISALIGNMENT-BANK 1 SENSOR 1

Don’t see how that’s related to oil and nothing about start/start….anyways the kicker is a bill for $380

I understand eating the oil change but $200 for scanning under warranty??
 

Heimkehr

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They went ahead with the oil change and cleared the codes and said it was fine.

Codes were:
P000B-BANK 1 CAMSHAFT 2 POSITION SLOW RESPONSE
P0016-CRANKSHAFT/CAMSHAFT TIMING MISALIGNMENT-BANK 1 SENSOR 1
Mm. Clearing codes is just that: pressing a scan tool button to eliminate the Check Engine Light from illuminating, at least in the short term. I wouldn't be convinced at all that performing just this action in isolation would've addressed the underlying mechanical issue(s), doubly so with respect to the illustrative video that you provided here.

Just curious: How many miles did the existing oil have on it before the engine started to make interesting and expensive noises?

Keep us posted, please, on what additional explanation, if any, the dealer provides when you pick the vehicle up...and how the engine sounds after their apparently miraculous oil change.
 
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SirPedro

SirPedro

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Mm. Clearing codes is just that: pressing a scan tool button to eliminate the Check Engine Light from illuminating, at least in the short term. I wouldn't be convinced at all that performing just this action in isolation would've addressed the underlying mechanical issue(s), doubly so with respect to the illustrative video that you provided here.

Just curious: How many miles did the existing oil have on it before the engine started to make interesting and expensive noises?

Keep us posted, please, on what additional explanation, if any, the dealer provides when you pick the vehicle up...and how the engine sounds after this apparently miraculous oil change.
Speaking to
Mm. Clearing codes is just that: pressing a scan tool button to eliminate the Check Engine Light from illuminating, at least in the short term. I wouldn't be convinced at all that performing just this action in isolation would've addressed the underlying mechanical issue(s), doubly so with respect to the illustrative video that you provided here.

Just curious: How many miles did the existing oil have on it before the engine started to make interesting and expensive noises?

Keep us posted, please, on what additional explanation, if any, the dealer provides when you pick the vehicle up...and how the engine sounds after their apparently miraculous oil change.
It’s been about 4000kms since last oil change and no issues.
 

Zandcwhite

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This is why warranty work and dealers get a bad rap. Unless any diagnostics turn up an actual warranty issue, you'll be on the hook for the diagnostics. I highly doubt an oil change was really the cure to anything, but I'd bet it was a low voltage issue. Improper voltage can play hell on any or every sensor in the Jeep and cause all sorts of issues. Assuming the batteries aren't bad, could be a problem that never returns and they'll stick with it was the oil.
 

#4Jeep 1st Wrangler

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Mm. Clearing codes is just that: pressing a scan tool button to eliminate the Check Engine Light from illuminating, at least in the short term. I wouldn't be convinced at all that performing just this action in isolation would've addressed the underlying mechanical issue(s), doubly so with respect to the illustrative video that you provided here.

Just curious: How many miles did the existing oil have on it before the engine started to make interesting and expensive noises?

Keep us posted, please, on what additional explanation, if any, the dealer provides when you pick the vehicle up...and how the engine sounds after their apparently miraculous oil change.
If the oil level was very low (big IF) it could explain the valve timing codes. The variable valve timing solenoids work off of oil pressure. (Low oil=low pressure) hence the misfires, poor performance etc.
Also the incorrect viscosity oil can also do the same thing.
Probably why they asked about the last oil change. So, the dealership changing the oil may correct the problem.
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