Another Failed Rear Defroster...Different Solution?

[The Fixer]

Hey all,
I don't drive my wife's JLU much (always driving my own haha), but it was on the end of the driveway so I took it out early to get bagels for breakfast. Hit the button for the rear defroster; button lit up, but by the time I got to the store, nothing was happening. I opened the hatch and found this -

I know this is a common issue with the JLs and it bugs the hell out of me because Jeep has built vehicles with separate opening hatch windows for decades. In fact, our 18-year old KJ opens in the same direction, and we've never had a problem with that (knock on wood!). The KJ uses a different connector -

I saw the TSB in another thread that says to use the Frostfighter repair kit. After some hunting around on their site, I saw they also sell replacement connectors for windows and harnesses. Has anyone tried changing the connector to a different style? It seems like that might be a better idea than fighting with the original one that continually fails. Thoughts? Comments?

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[WagzDad]

Agreed. The factory connector has too little contact area and the connection is loose. Bad connections get hot and melt the solder. The catch is if you change the connector to the FF tab and connector you will not have warranty service for that particular function.

The FF silver epoxy is strong and conducive but will separate if the connection gets too hot. I cut sever dime sized disks out of uncoated foil and pressed the connector together. It’s significantly tighter and has held so far. My BIL suggested using the conducting copper anti seize , like you use on spark plugs, to improve the connection. He said his instrumentation techs use it for poor contacts on switch and relay applications.

 

[HoboJeep]

I have the same issue. Connector came loose back in August. Dealer kept Jeep 3 days trying to reconnect it. Re soldering didn't hold. They ordered some kit to try next. It didn't work either. They told me they were ordering a new back window because that would be the only way they could fix it. Many phone calls and texts while waiting on the window. Was recently told that Jeep cannot get the windows from the original supplier and are trying to find a new supplier. Who knows if this is true or not. I kind of hope it is and that the new supplier is a lot better than the old one.

Jeep Cares have you heard anything about this?

 

[The Fixer]

Agreed. The factory connector has too little contact area and the connection is loose. Bad connections get hot and melt the solder. The catch is if you change the connector to the FF tab and connector you will not have warranty service for that particular function.

True enough. It's still under warranty until May so part of me says let the dealership have a go at it...the only problem is if they do a sloppy repair then I will have to clean up their mess LOL. I told my wife that I was going to call for an appointment and she said, "Is this something you can fix yourself?" I do most of my own repairs and maintenance, and this does not look all that difficult - I certainly can mix some epoxy as good as a tech at the dealer.

The FF silver epoxy is strong and conducive but will separate if the connection gets too hot. I cut sever dime sized disks out of uncoated foil and pressed the connector together. It’s significantly tighter and has held so far. My BIL suggested using the conducting copper anti seize , like you use on spark plugs, to improve the connection. He said his instrumentation techs use it for poor contacts on switch and relay applications.

What did you use, copper foil? And did you tuck it in between the connector and the button that is attached to the window?

 

[WagzDad]

True enough. It's still under warranty until May so part of me says let the dealership have a go at it...the only problem is if they do a sloppy repair then I will have to clean up their mess LOL. I told my wife that I was going to call for an appointment and she said, "Is this something you can fix yourself?" I do most of my own repairs and maintenance, and this does not look all that difficult - I certainly can mix some epoxy as good as a tech at the dealer.



What did you use, copper foil? And did you tuck it in between the connector and the button that is attached to the window?

I used aluminum foil 4 or 5 layers. Yes, I put it between the tab and the connector.
im pretty sure that the FF conducti epoxy is just rebranded Arctic Silver epoxy. I used a lot of that to mount heat sinks. Just be sure to give it the post mix idle time because the reaction is slow

 

[1quick1]

I finally got mine fixed. I think I may put a piece of electrical tape over the button to see if it helps reinforce it a bit. Otherwise I'm assuming it's just going to eventually fail again.

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