Another aux battery bypass question. Sorry.

[etoften]

Hey all. I know i have seen the answer to this question before. But i can't find it now. So my apologies for the repeated thread.

The larger battery cable is the main ground. It mounts on top of the aux cable to be removed. The stud for the aux cable is much smaller than the hole in the main ground ring terminal. Are we not worried about the mismatch?

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[AndySpill]

I think the question or concern is that the cable that connects the two batteries' negative posts is thinner than the one that connects the main battery's negative post to the body ground.

All else equal cable thickness should correspond to the mximum amperage that could flow thru it, fuses that would blow to prevent the cable from carrrying more than its rating and overheating notwithstanding.

The engineers at Stellantis have determine that the thickness of cable being used to connect the two batteries' negative posts is the dual AGM battery JL is adequate, much that if you effect the Aux battery bypass no current will then flow thru this cable, rendering its gauge/ampacity moot.

Does that clear things up?

 

[azwjowner]

I had this thought but the only thing that matters is that the ring terminal on the cable is firmly contacting the top of the IBS sensor. It doesn't matter if the ring terminal has a larger inside diameter. When I moved my cable over, tightening the 10mm nut was sufficient to firmly secure the terminal, so nothing else matters.

 

[sevd]

I'm sorry, but IBS sensor is hilarious. Irritable bowel syndrome sensor. I picture it mounted in the driver's seat...

 

[SoK66]

A good question. I have done the AUX bypass on some of our tour Gladiators and asked myself the same. So far there have been no issues at all.

 

[aeonixx1001]

I'm sorry, but IBS sensor is hilarious. Irritable bowel syndrome sensor. I picture it mounted in the driver's seat...

It is Irritable Bowel Syndrome if you dont hook it up???

 

[aeonixx1001]

Hey all. I know i have seen the answer to this question before. But i can't find it now. So my apologies for the repeated thread.

The larger battery cable is the main ground. It mounts on top of the aux cable to be removed. The stud for the aux cable is much smaller than the hole in the main ground ring terminal. Are we not worried about the mismatch?

No, the Aux cable only runs the starter Solenoid and is gauged for 10 amps, That would be excessive wasting copper on the same size as the main because it is not necessary, the main has a much higher ampacity to run all your "stuff". Disconnect the smaller negative lead. Tape it up so it cannot make contact with any metal and wire tie it out of the way. Go to your fuse box and pull f42 out. This is the power control relay that switches the Aux battery, just pull it out. The first time you drive it, push the ESS button so the light is on. You will never have to touch it again and no Aux battery in circuit. My Jeep Sprang to life when I took all that Aux crap off. Install a Higher CCA (Cold cranking amps) Bateryif you have light bars, all the "stuff" Not one issue since the removal.....

 

[Da_Cuse83]

No, the Aux cable only runs the starter Solenoid and is gauged for 10 amps, That would be excessive wasting copper on the same size as the main because it is not necessary, the main has a much higher ampacity to run all your "stuff". Disconnect the smaller negative lead. Tape it up so it cannot make contact with any metal and wire tie it out of the way. Go to your fuse box and pull f42 out. This is the power control relay that switches the Aux battery, just pull it out. The first time you drive it, push the ESS button so the light is on. You will never have to touch it again and no Aux battery in circuit. My Jeep Sprang to life when I took all that Aux crap off. Install a Higher CCA (Cold cranking amps) Bateryif you have light bars, all the "stuff" Not one issue since the removal.....

Does this work the 2.0 4 cylinder jeeps as well?

 

[aeonixx1001]

Does this work the 2.0 4 cylinder jeeps as well?

I'll be honest, I would have to see the schematics. But, I cant imagine that Stalantis is that ingenious that they would change the "Aux battery configuration". Check it out. https://www.google.com/search?clien...tery+on+Jeep+4+cylinder+2.0&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8.

 

[Bayrat]

No, the Aux cable only runs the starter Solenoid and is gauged for 10 amps, That would be excessive wasting copper on the same size as the main because it is not necessary, the main has a much higher ampacity to run all your "stuff". Disconnect the smaller negative lead. Tape it up so it cannot make contact with any metal and wire tie it out of the way. Go to your fuse box and pull f42 out. This is the power control relay that switches the Aux battery, just pull it out. The first time you drive it, push the ESS button so the light is on. You will never have to touch it again and no Aux battery in circuit. My Jeep Sprang to life when I took all that Aux crap off. Install a Higher CCA (Cold cranking amps) Bateryif you have light bars, all the "stuff" Not one issue since the removal.....

I did exactly the same procedure. Although it worked perfectly, I still need to push the ESS button at every start though.

 

[SoK66]

I did exactly the same procedure. Although it worked perfectly, I still need to push the ESS button at every start though.

Correct, deleting the AUX battery and removing fuse 42 just eliminates the battery and its switching relay & circuit. ESS is still active unless you shut it off with the button or use a defeat strategy with Tazer, etc.

 

[Badunit]

The larger battery cable is the main ground. It mounts on top of the aux cable to be removed. The stud for the aux cable is much smaller than the hole in the main ground ring terminal. Are we not worried about the mismatch?

It bothered me, too, to put the larger lug on the smaller stud but it makes a solid connection so no problem.

 

[Heimkehr]

I did exactly the same procedure. Although it worked perfectly, I still need to push the ESS button at every start though.

Isolating the ESS battery simply prevents it from parasitizing the main battery when the former starts to reach the end of its service life. In that regard, the isolation procedure is meant to protect the main battery. ESS events will still occur, as mentioned, unless you press the dashboard switch or install, for example, a defeat harness.

 

[aeonixx1001]

I did exactly the same procedure. Although it worked perfectly, I still need to push the ESS button at every start though.

I have seen where the Power control relay is fused on a different fuse. You may want to check you specific model to make sure you pull the correct fuse. If the power relay cant turn on the ESS is off and not functioning. Thats strange..We'll figure it out!!

 

[aeonixx1001]

I have seen where the Power control relay is fused on a different fuse. You may want to check you specific model to make sure you pull the correct fuse. If the power relay cant turn on the ESS is off and not functioning. Thats strange..We'll figure it out!!

I am so sorry, I made an assumption you had a Tazer, not really necessary if you dont mind pushing the button after every start. That would drive me nuts. Get a Mini Tazer and disable ess...

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