Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[zsg1313]

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[shane h.]

I have spent the last week pouring through the 82+ pages of this thread. Thank you all for the shared information. I'm about to dive into upgrading my sound.

2019 JLUR with the base 7" UConnect system.

What I've done so far:

• JBL Club 322F speakers in the upper dash (25 watts RMS - 75 watts peak)
• JBL Club 622 speakers in Metra kick panel pods with full soundmat and polyfil (60 watts RMS - 180 watts peak)
• JBL Club 622 speakers in Select Increments JLJT-Pods with polyfil (60 watts RMS - 180 watts peak)

I did the speaker upgrades back in May looking for better sound. Although the speaker upgrades did make a difference, the lack of power leaves a lot to be desired. I like to drive with the top off, and the system is still "silent" topless.

What I am looking to add:

• PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 R.2 - install behind glove compartment as pictured previously in this thread
• JL Audio JD400/4 amplifier (75 watts RMS x 4) - plan to install under passenger front seat
• 4 gauge wiring for power and ground for the JL Audio amp
• Kicker 46HS10 powered subwoofer - plan to install under the driver front seat

My plan is to wire in the new stuff like this. I am not tearing out that dash again to run new speaker wires. Once was enough.

Questions:

1. For anyone that has installed the Kicker 46HS10 - Is the supplied wiring harness - specifically the power line - hardy enough? Or do I need to plan on heavier wire for power from the battery?

2. Has anyone installed the Kicker 46HS10 under either the passenger front seat or drivers front seat? I've read that it fits and I've read that it doesn't. Understand about the under-seat vents...

3. Is there a good way to mount the amplifier under the passenger seat that does not involve the $230 JL Audio (ten dollar piece of metal) under seat amplifier "rack"? I really hate the idea of spending $230 on that. I've looked around the forums and there aren't a lot of posts detailing how people are mounting their amps.

 

[Terpsmandan]

Unfortunately, it seems that the only other amp rack option is the one that come with the Quart Stage 6 but they do not sell that separately from the kit.

 

[AustrianOak82]

Question. I am currently running the LC2i 2-channel LOC for my sub. When I swap the component speakers and amp them, can I use the LC2i midrange preouts to power the amp and then use the ceramic resistors (per thread) to overcome the factory radio load issue? Do I really need the PacAMP Pro since I have the LC2i for the preouts and I am using the soldered resistors?

 

[dswolfpack]

You shouldn't need the PAC device. Your installer can easily tap into the mid-range rear speakers, just behind the right passenger seat under the floor-level section of the B-Pillar. You will need an LOC (something like the LC2i from AudioControl), though nothing more, as long as you're leaving the rear channel speakers in play.

Is there a diagram for the speaker wires on the B Pillar?

 

[dswolfpack]

I'll give this a try and see how it goes. Thank you for the help!

Were you able to figure this out?

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Is there a diagram for the speaker wires on the B Pillar?

There's a thread set as a sticky in the electronics section that allows you to download schematics, though the wires mentioned are the only twisted pair wires in the b-pillar.

 

[yodog]

Your questions:
1.) I have seen this asked before, but cannot find an answer. Are there wires for each of the (8) speakers behind the radio or just (4)?
there is 8 speaker wires
8 wires as in +/- for each of the 8 speakers or 4 pairs that go to FL/FR/RL/RR?
yes there is detailed diagram at First page on this thread

2.) If I use Toslink, will the volume for the stock radio still work or will I have to use something like the DRC-205?
yes stock radio volume will work

3.) Will I also have to use the bass knob that comes with the AP4-CH41?
yes it come with bass knob , you can adjust from bass knob or stock Head unit
But do I have to use it?
it have to be connected to PAC unit m adjust to desire level and forget it

4.) In order to tie into the factory speaker wiring without splicing, do I need the APH-CH01?
APH-CH01 is for Alpine equipped unit
you need to get AP4-CH41R2 version don't get confuse with the older model make sure you get the R2
So the AP4-CH41R2 comes with everything needed to tie into the stock speaker wires?
yes come with everything to hookup speaker wires you dont have to split from stock harness

i just finished my audio system with PAC unit its easy to install but i am having issues with the PAC prob its me only i seen other members has great result with PAC....

i might going with JL Fix-86 unit after couple test more with PAC

I have this exact issue. Did you ever get this solved??

 

[Biconia]

I have this exact issue. Did you ever get this solved??

hi member

i did moved to JL Audio Fix86 , no issues for 2 year Enjoying

 

[Andy McNasty]

I had installed a Height10 Head Unit with Blind Spot Cameras and everything worked as it should. I have since installed the following:

Now the Automatic Start/Stop is always deactivated.

As a side note, I have a 2021 JL Unlimited Right Hand Drive. The goal was to add some great sounds without effecting the stock options or reducing cargo space as my wife uses it as her daily driver as well as her POV as a postal carrier. An additional side note, the pods did not work without serious customizing for the knee wells and the sound bar pods needed serious cutting to make the speakers fit. Seems DS18 uses really large magnets. Love the new sound, but want to get the Auto Start/Stop back or at least the light out without popping the light. lol

Any help is appreciated!

 

[Terpsmandan]

I had installed a Height10 Head Unit with Blind Spot Cameras and everything worked as it should. I have since installed the following:

Now the Automatic Start/Stop is always deactivated.

Love the new sound, but want to get the Auto Start/Stop back or at least the light out without popping the light. lol

Any help is appreciated!

As in the engine never shuts off? I have a Tazer it just remembers the last setting of the ESS switch, it doesn't reset the switch with every start.

 

[Andy McNasty]

As in the engine never shuts off? I have a Tazer it just remembers the last setting of the ESS switch, it doesn't reset the switch with every start.

Correct, it does not shut off. But the wife's issue is that the light is on. She don't really care about it not shutting off... She actually doesn't really like that it did that. But she dislikes the light more.

 

[Andy McNasty]

As in the engine never shuts off? I have a Tazer it just remembers the last setting of the ESS switch, it doesn't reset the switch with every start.

It just occurred to me though... It seems I had to disconnect the box on the stock RH speaker pod and relocate it. I think the wires that connect to that are the same ones that you connect the Tazer to.

 

[Terpsmandan]

Seems it’s doing the same

Correct, it does not shut off. But the wife's issue is that the light is on. She don't really care about it not shutting off... She actually doesn't really like that it did that. But she dislikes the light more.

The radio is probably telling the Can-Bus to remember the last setting of the ESS switch. The light comes on to remind you that the ESS system is disabled. I actually never reinstalled the SGW when I installed the Quart system. It's sitting in the console. Figured I didn't need that anymore.....

 

[rts4714]

My brain hurts and I've been working at upgrades since 10am....here's what I got:
Starting with the base system 7in screen
JL c1-650x (6.5) in the knee panels, tweeters to be mounted elsewhere on a separate channel
JL c1-690 (6x9) in the roll bar. They fit with the proper adapters. The tweeter will push on the grill a little bit. Going to adress this later on
PAC - LocPRO advanced t harness
JBL DSP4068AM Amp - built in dsp and LOC
8in sub that I'll upgrade later.
After lots of troubleshooting we first identified that the remote wire wasn't working, figured out a temporary work around for that just to test the system.
And no sound to any of the speakers. What I'm struggling with is if the Amp has a built in LOC why would I not be getting sound. We've tested power to the Amp as well.
Speakers work if I plug the head unit in as factory, but trying to go through the Amp is where the issue is.
Wondering if there's something I'm overlooking or if I need to go the resistor route (350 for an Amp module seems excessive to me). Also considering if the audio control ac-lgd 20 will work

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