Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[Sting_NC_USA]

My questions:
1. Am I correct in that I could use the JL line level and not need the JL Fix?
2. I will need the resistor?
3. How can I best achieve cutting signal to all speakers except the roll bar, while providing full range to the 5 and 1/4 speakers I put in the roll bar.

Greg, you can use a standard LOC; however, the issue is that the stock/base system is highly equalized. Feeding that EQ'd signal into the amp will not provide a clear/full-spectrum signal. There's a huge difference. There are other DSP's you can use other than the JL Fix, though that's the one I'm most familiar with.

If you're taking two stock speakers out, you will need two of the resistors, one for each of the two channels. Buy a few extras, just in case (they're really cheap!).

Before addressing your third question, I have a few recommendations... With our Jeeps, and many other vehicles for that matter, the sound stage really needs to be up front. The "why" response to that is: I have the same speakers in the front and rear on mine, and you just don't hear the rear speakers in the soundbar like you do the kick panel speakers. So I'd recommend you put your nice speakers in the Kick panels, and leave the soundbar alone, that is, until you decide to upgrade to a 4-channel amp. It's a bit more work, but you'll really hear your C2's so much better.

So, for number 3, I wouldn't cut off any of the other speakers. Leave them there for "fill."

Quick summary of the recommendation for you with your equipment:

• Install two resistors right before your LOC/DSP
• For sound quality, use the JL Fix86 (find one used/refurbished - Oh, and if it's used, make sure you update the firmware before trying to calibrate it!)
• Run RCA's form the JL Fix to feed your amp
• 5.25's should be installed in your kick panel pods (leave the soundbar "as is" for now)
  • If your 5.25's are coaxials, consider installing them in the kick panel pods and also consider running the Infinity Reference 3.5's where your stock tweeters are (using the stock radio signal/wires).
  • If your 5.25's are components/separates, place the woofer in the kick pod, and the tweets up in the dash.

Below is a rough schematic, though I promise, this isn't a perfect diagram (I'm not an electrician). This is what I used as a mock-up for helping a friend install his system a few weeks back. You can use this as a template for marking how much wire you need, as well as identifying a few of the extra parts needed.

If I can help, or expand on anything above, feel free to ask. Best of luck!

PS: We bought a 100 ft spool of 16 Gauge Speaker Wire (This was for a 6 speaker install), 20 feet of utility wire for the 12V Switched power wires and ground wires, a vast array of wire connectors, a 12V Fused Distribution Block/Junction Box (we used 8awg wire, for a single, smaller amp - use 4 or 0awg for larger/multiple amps), 2 RCA Stereo Audio Cables (JL Fix to Amp - 10-12 Ft (if installing the Amp under the front seat). Sound deadening material and polyfil for your speaker enclosures. I'm sure I missed something, but this should keep you off of the couch!

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[Greg Cobble]

Greg, you can use a standard LOC; however, the issue is that the stock/base system is highly equalized. Feeding that EQ'd signal into the amp will not provide a clear/full-spectrum signal. There's a huge difference. There are other DSP's you can use other than the JL Fix, though that's the one I'm most familiar with.

If you're taking two stock speakers out, you will need two of the resistors, one for each of the two channels. Buy a few extras, just in case (they're really cheap!).

Before addressing your third question, I have a few recommendations... With our Jeeps, and many other vehicles for that matter, the sound stage really needs to be up front. The "why" response to that is: I have the same speakers in the front and rear on mine, and you just don't hear the rear speakers in the soundbar like you do the kick panel speakers. So I'd recommend you put your nice speakers in the Kick panels, and leave the soundbar alone, that is, until you decide to upgrade to a 4-channel amp. It's a bit more work, but you'll really hear your C2's so much better.

So, for number 3, I wouldn't cut off any of the other speakers. Leave them there for "fill."

Quick summary of the recommendation for you with your equipment:

• Install two resistors right before your LOC/DSP
• For sound quality, use the JL Fix86 (find one used/refurbished - Oh, and if it's used, make sure you update the firmware before trying to calibrate it!)
• Run RCA's form the JL Fix to feed your amp
• 5.25's should be installed in your kick panel pods (leave the soundbar "as is" for now)
  • If your 5.25's are coaxials, consider installing them in the kick panel pods and also consider running the Infinity Reference 2.5's where your stock tweeters are (using the stock radio signal/wires).
  • If your 5.25's are components/separates, place the woofer in the kick pod, and the tweets up in the dash.

Below is a rough schematic, though I promise, this isn't a perfect diagram (I'm not an electrician). This is what I used as a mock-up for helping a friend install his system a few weeks back. You can use this as a template for marking how much wire you need, as well as identifying a few of the extra parts needed.

If I can help, or expand on anything above, feel free to ask. Best of luck!

PS: We bought a 100 ft spool of 16 Gauge Speaker Wire (This was for a 6 speaker install), 20 feet of utility wire for the 12V Switched power wires and ground wires, a vast array of wire connectors, a 12V Fused Distribution Block/Junction Box (we used 8awg wire, for a single, smaller amp - use 4 or 0awg for larger/multiple amps), 2 RCA Stereo Audio Cables (JL Fix to Amp - 10-12 Ft (if installing the Amp under the front seat). Sound deadening material and polyfil for your speaker enclosures. I'm sure I missed something, but this should keep you off of the couch!

 

[Greg Cobble]

Sting_NC_USA, I would love to share a beer, coke, burger, etc. with you and just talk. And it probably would not matter what we talked about and I would enjoy it and probably learn. If you have a significant other, I don't care what they say about you...I think you are pretty dang giving of your time and your communication skill set is excellent THANK YOU!
I don't think I need anything else...well, 4 speakers instead of two, another amp, a JL Fix (had one in my Tundra and they do make it happen). So while my wife may not be happy with the "to buy" list that I will blame on you, I am sure you probably saved me from a re-do that would have not made me happy and cost me more in the end!
Seriously appreciate your detailed response and your time!!
Thank you,
Greg

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Sting_NC_USA, I would love to share a beer, coke, burger, etc. with you and just talk. And it probably would not matter what we talked about and I would enjoy it and probably learn. If you have a significant other, I don't care what they say about you...I think you are pretty dang giving of your time and your communication skill set is excellent THANK YOU!
I don't think I need anything else...well, 4 speakers instead of two, another amp, a JL Fix (had one in my Tundra and they do make it happen). So while my wife may not be happy with the "to buy" list that I will blame on you, I am sure you probably saved me from a re-do that would have not made me happy and cost me more in the end!
Seriously appreciate your detailed response and your time!!
Thank you,
Greg

LOL, anytime Greg, glad to help! And, I'll gladly take the blame!

 

[Endeego]

Sting_NC_USA, thank you for your detailed write up. Very, very cool. I have a couple of questions for you or others, who are more knowledgeable than I.

I have been researching upgrades for the Alpine system in my JLUR. The Alpine system is fine, but I'm looking for sound that is clearer with more punch and a bit louder--nothing crazy.

My understanding is that with the JL Audio fix 86, the Jeep audio controls are set to a particular volume, and volume is handled by the JL Audio Fix 86 via a knob that should be conveniently located. My first questions is: Are there similar options where the Jeep's volume controls (including steering wheel controls) still work?

My second question is: Are there high quality speaker options that do not require substantial modifications or fabrications to make them fit? I am interested in swapping out all the speakers, including the sub, for high end speakers (plus an amp to power them), but would prefer to do as little modifications as possible to get them to fit. I am comfortable with a soldering iron and wiring, but not so much with fabrication, etc. Any advice on such speakers would be appreciated.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Sting_NC_USA, thank you for your detailed write up. Very, very cool. I have a couple of questions for you or others, who are more knowledgeable than I.

I have been researching upgrades for the Alpine system in my JLUR. The Alpine system is fine, but I'm looking for sound that is clearer with more punch and a bit louder--nothing crazy.

My understanding is that with the JL Audio fix 86, the Jeep audio controls are set to a particular volume, and volume is handled by the JL Audio Fix 86 via a knob that should be conveniently located. My first questions is: Are there similar options where the Jeep's volume controls (including steering wheel controls) still work?

My second question is: Are there high quality speaker options that do not require substantial modifications or fabrications to make them fit? I am interested in swapping out all the speakers, including the sub, for high end speakers (plus an amp to power them), but would prefer to do as little modifications as possible to get them to fit. I am comfortable with a soldering iron and wiring, but not so much with fabrication, etc. Any advice on such speakers would be appreciated.

With the JL Audio Fix86 (and other DSP's), your stock radio/steering volume controls will work just as they do now. And, if you feed the JL Fix inputs with all 4 channels of your stock radio (for the Alpine, that means tapping into the signal after the amp), you'll also maintain the stock balance and fader controls. You can add a volume knob to the Fix86, but it is not at all necessary.

For your second question, there are high quality 4-inch speakers available, and you'd have to go with the more elaborate component versions, with fairly high power, to get 4-inch speakers to really shine.

The biggest challenge relates to just how wide of a frequency range you'd be able to get out of them. You really want to build your system so that you hear the full spectrum of sound. Meaning, a Sub-woofer will sound best within an effective range of 20Hz to a max of about 80hz. The rest of the speakers have to cover the 80Hz to 20,000Hz range. It's tough to get a 4-inch speaker to cover that lower range effectively, since most of them sound better in the 120Hz range and up. Check out Focal, Hertz and JL Audio's 4-inch higher-end component options, paying attention to their recommended frequency ranges. You just don't want to have too big of a gap between your sub's capabilities and your mid-range speakers.

I chose the 5.25 approach because they cover the 80Hz range and up better than the 4-inch speakers, though depending on how "high-end" you're willing to go, with clean power to support them, I do think you can bridge that gap fairly well. I do recommend you talk with your local car audio shop, as they'd be better able to recommend 4's that would best cover your budget/quality preferences.

Good luck, and keep us posted!

 

[Endeego]

Sting_NC_USA, thank you for your response and the advice on choosing speakers. It's good to know that there are options for keeping the stock volume, balance and fader controls.

 

[krazyboi]

I am having an extremely hard time figuring out which twisted pair of wires are for the rear speakers. I have the upgraded Alpine system but was looking to add another sub into the system by tapping into the rear speaker wires. The wire colors in the original post don't seem to match what I see in this bundle of wires. Are the negatives and positives twisted together or are the negatives twisted together and positives twisted together?

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

You will want to look for twisted pair wires that go up the B Pillar, behind the passenger seat. From the image, it looks like you are working at the floor board area. If you pop the lower panels of the B Pillar you should see the wires described. Further, if there's any question as to the wiring colors, you can drop the panel that supports the sound bar's lighting pod. There are 3 or 4 screws on the front side of the sound bar that, once removed, will allow you to see the actual wires going to your sound bar speakers.

 

[krazyboi]

You will want to look for twisted pair wires that go up the B Pillar, behind the passenger seat. From the image, it looks like you are working at the floor board area. If you pop the lower panels of the B Pillar you should see the wires described. Further, if there's any question as to the wiring colors, you can drop the panel that supports the sound bar's lighting pod. There are 3 or 4 screws on the front side of the sound bar that, once removed, will allow you to see the actual wires going to your sound bar speakers.

I'll give this a try and see how it goes. Thank you for the help!

 

[DravenGSX]

My second question is: Are there high quality speaker options that do not require substantial modifications or fabrications to make them fit? I am interested in swapping out all the speakers, including the sub, for high end speakers (plus an amp to power them), but would prefer to do as little modifications as possible to get them to fit. I am comfortable with a soldering iron and wiring, but not so much with fabrication, etc. Any advice on such speakers would be appreciated.

I strongly recommend you look into the Hybrid Audio Technologies Unity U3, and Legatia L3v2 speakers. I installed the Unities in my previous vehicle and was blown away with how full sounding they are.. I would fill them with U5s in the kick panels. With a good amp, you'd really be rocking.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

I strongly recommend you look into the Hybrid Audio Technologies Unity U3, and Legatia L3v2 speakers. I installed the Unities in my previous vehicle and was blown away with how full sounding they are.. I would fill them with U5s in the kick panels. With a good amp, you'd really be rocking.

Those look great. They have some awesome mid-bass options I've not seen before. Wish we could find a place for their 6x9 mid-bass series, wow!

 

[smacum]

Hey all, and as always, thanks for all the great information. I have one quick question ... where are y'all grounding your sub amplifiers? I had an install done and the dude grounded to the side-most drivers side rear seat bolt, which in theory is ok as it does go to the chassis, but I'd prefer to ground elsewhere so I can strip the paint and get good contact. Should I just drill my own? I've considered poking a hole in the closest drain plug and going right to the under carriage.

Opinions??

 

[smacum]

I'll give this a try and see how it goes. Thank you for the help!

I was wondering if you've tested with the factory sub and new sub together and how you think it sounds. I disconnected the factory sub but I'm considering hooking it back up but would like your opinion on how they mesh in your setup.

 

[DravenGSX]

Those look great. They have some awesome mid-bass options I've not seen before. Wish we could find a place for their 6x9 mid-bass series, wow!

They currently hold the SQ world record with an Altima that has all Legatia components. I was blown away by the 4" U3s in my old car. Much more full than the stock 6.5s I had in the back.

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