KellsiesJLUR

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Thanks - so the budget grows ;)

The issue with an aftermarket amp is it means also a connection interface and probably would do the DSR1 today (was not available then I did mine)

Then an amp

Then wiring to the 4 "corners"

So it quickly becomes a $2K project instead of "A few hundred" for better speakers.

But that's how these things usually go ;)
I am running a rockford dsr1 into an amp running the factory speakers. I am sure I am overpowering them but they are holding up so far and decent quality sound





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I've got the premium radio with subwoofer. My wife wants more bass so I'm gonna add either a bazooka tube or some other self contained powered subwoofer. Since its a quad coil sub can I grab a leg off the factory sub to run to a speaker level input to the new system? Or will that cause the radio to shut down the sub output because its not drawing right ohms?
 
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I've got the premium radio with subwoofer. My wife wants more bass so I'm gonna add either a bazooka tube or some other self contained powered subwoofer. Since its a quad coil sub can I grab a leg off the factory sub to run to a speaker level input to the new system? Or will that cause the radio to shut down the sub output because its not drawing right ohms?
You're better off tapping into the full-range signal using the rear speaker wires that feed the sound bar, adding a basic LOC (like the LC2i or similar). The wires to the sub are likely already crossed-over to what a weak subwoofer can handle, so you'll be better off using the amp/sub's cross-over to handle the full-range signal so that you aren't missing anything in the low end frequencies.
 
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Hi,

I have already done a system update using your process but went with new speaker wires.

I am now helping a buddy do a more modest upgrade in a 8.4/Alpine model.

You mention the speaker wires are "split" in each corner.

I take that to mean out of the amp to the front passenger corner, and then split to the knee and dash speaker. I assume this is in parallel?

I ask as he would like to go with 2 way components up front with the 6.5 in the knee, and the tweeter in the dash, using the provided cross over. So I take it I can simply cap off one of the two speakers connections, and attach the other to the input of the cross over and that to the two component speakers? This assumes the cross over appears as a 4 ohm load.

Thanks fo the help - this is a fantastic thread.
I believe the local community here has addressed your questions, and thought I'd add a couple of things.

To clarify, the non-Alpine system simply splits the signal at each corner. Basically it's running a positive and negative wire to each corner and splitting those wires running one pair to each simple woofer and tweeter. In contrast, the Alpine system runs a discrete signal to each component.

Because of how the Alpine system works, most folks are using the PAC adapter, with a few using the Rockford DSR1. I haven't installed a DSR1 setup myself, which is the only reason it's not on the recommendation list.

As was mentioned, if you want to use the crossover, you'd really need to go with the more advanced PAC setup (or possibly the DSR1). I think the JLFix86 route is a bit overkill for a simple system as you describe. With the PAC, you're basically utilizing a plug-and-play approach. A small amp is all but required. It doesn't have to be high-end or expensive, but does need to match the specs of the speakers with enough headroom to not stress the amp, or send too much distortion to the new speakers.

Since you've already received some great feedback and advice from the folks here, simply let us know if we can clarify anything. Best of luck!

PS: How'd your system doing?
 

oceanblue2019

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I believe the local community here has addressed your questions, and thought I'd add a couple of things.

To clarify, the non-Alpine system simply splits the signal at each corner. Basically it's running a positive and negative wire to each corner and splitting those wires running one pair to each simple woofer and tweeter. In contrast, the Alpine system runs a discrete signal to each component.

Because of how the Alpine system works, most folks are using the PAC adapter, with a few using the Rockford DSR1. I haven't installed a DSR1 setup myself, which is the only reason it's not on the recommendation list.

As was mentioned, if you want to use the crossover, you'd really need to go with the more advanced PAC setup (or possibly the DSR1). I think the JLFix86 route is a bit overkill for a simple system as you describe. With the PAC, you're basically utilizing a plug-and-play approach. A small amp is all but required. It doesn't have to be high-end or expensive, but does need to match the specs of the speakers with enough headroom to not stress the amp, or send too much distortion to the new speakers.

Since you've already received some great feedback and advice from the folks here, simply let us know if we can clarify anything. Best of luck!

PS: How'd your system doing?
Ok, will suggest he re-thinks his approach of just doing new speakers/metra pods and considers the PAC/DSR1 with a small amp and speakers.

I love my system - really happy with the AudioControl D6.1200 as it's been fantastic.
 

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Ok, will suggest he re-thinks his approach of just doing new speakers/metra pods and considers the PAC/DSR1 with a small amp and speakers.

I love my system - really happy with the AudioControl D6.1200 as it's been fantastic.
I was really close to pulling the trigger on one of those! How is the programming the dsp with that thing?
 

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I was really close to pulling the trigger on one of those! How is the programming the dsp with that thing?
AudioControl is great stuff once you get your mind around how they designed it to work. Once you get past that it's pretty intuitive.

I've been running their stuff since 1990's with the original Epicenter.
 

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I am having an issue that I have never seen before. I am in an ’18 JL Sport S, 7” non-Apline system. I have a PAC SNI-35 and I have tapped into the rear soundbar speaker wires by the passenger side as suggested in the thread. I have a Rockford Prime 150x2 bridged running a Sundown SD-3 10. If I keep the volume at 15 or less, it runs and sounds perfect. If I turn it up to 16 (heavy bass songs) or 18 (any music) it starts cutting out and the amp protect light is showing up. I have done the following troubleshooting:

  • Turned gains on LOC to middle setting, ¼ setting, and tuned per instructions
  • Connected only 1 side to amp to LOC
  • Connected only 1 side of amp to speaker
  • Verified Sub was not wired in Parallel (this would ‘show’ the amp to low of an ohm load for this amp)
  • I am using 4-gauge power and ground. Ground is through a hole in the bottom of the storage box and bolted to the frame directly via an existing bolt by the driver side rear bumper. Power is directly to battery post with 100amp fuse
I have a set of RCA to 1/8” audio cables and I am going to feed the amp signal from my cell phone after work today (this should bypass the LOC and isolate the amp wiring). I feel it has something to do with the amp (I hope at least) but it would be nice if I did something wrong in wiring and I can fix it.
 

oceanblue2019

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I believe the local community here has addressed your questions, and thought I'd add a couple of things.

To clarify, the non-Alpine system simply splits the signal at each corner. Basically it's running a positive and negative wire to each corner and splitting those wires running one pair to each simple woofer and tweeter. In contrast, the Alpine system runs a discrete signal to each component.

Because of how the Alpine system works, most folks are using the PAC adapter, with a few using the Rockford DSR1. I haven't installed a DSR1 setup myself, which is the only reason it's not on the recommendation list.

As was mentioned, if you want to use the crossover, you'd really need to go with the more advanced PAC setup (or possibly the DSR1). I think the JLFix86 route is a bit overkill for a simple system as you describe. With the PAC, you're basically utilizing a plug-and-play approach. A small amp is all but required. It doesn't have to be high-end or expensive, but does need to match the specs of the speakers with enough headroom to not stress the amp, or send too much distortion to the new speakers.

Since you've already received some great feedback and advice from the folks here, simply let us know if we can clarify anything. Best of luck!

PS: How'd your system doing?
So this did not go simple.....

He ordered a DSR1, AudioControl LC6.1200, a set of Focal PS165F's for the front knees and dash (Metra pods), and a set of Focal PC165F Coax for the sound bar (SSV mounts), and a Focal P25FSE for the 10" sub mount.

Guess there goes a couple weekends helping install all this stuff. Should have never offered to help "swap out some speakers"
 
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I am having an issue that I have never seen before. I am in an ’18 JL Sport S, 7” non-Apline system. I have a PAC SNI-35 and I have tapped into the rear soundbar speaker wires by the passenger side as suggested in the thread. I have a Rockford Prime 150x2 bridged running a Sundown SD-3 10. If I keep the volume at 15 or less, it runs and sounds perfect. If I turn it up to 16 (heavy bass songs) or 18 (any music) it starts cutting out and the amp protect light is showing up. I have done the following troubleshooting:

  • Turned gains on LOC to middle setting, ¼ setting, and tuned per instructions
  • Connected only 1 side to amp to LOC
  • Connected only 1 side of amp to speaker
  • Verified Sub was not wired in Parallel (this would ‘show’ the amp to low of an ohm load for this amp)
  • I am using 4-gauge power and ground. Ground is through a hole in the bottom of the storage box and bolted to the frame directly via an existing bolt by the driver side rear bumper. Power is directly to battery post with 100amp fuse
I have a set of RCA to 1/8” audio cables and I am going to feed the amp signal from my cell phone after work today (this should bypass the LOC and isolate the amp wiring). I feel it has something to do with the amp (I hope at least) but it would be nice if I did something wrong in wiring and I can fix it.
What's your power source, and what size power wire and ground wire are you using?

You should be running a minimum of 8ga fused wire directly to your battery, and a minimum of 8ga wire to a non-painted, dedicated ground post/location. The remote wire guage is insignificant.

Sounds like your amp may be choking from a limited power source. With more detail, we'll dig in further.
 

Nate3531

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What's your power source, and what size power wire and ground wire are you using?

You should be running a minimum of 8ga fused wire directly to your battery, and a minimum of 8ga wire to a non-painted, dedicated ground post/location. The remote wire guage is insignificant.

Sounds like your amp may be choking from a limited power source. With more detail, we'll dig in further.
4 gauge, battery with 100amp fuse, ground to frame.

Remote is 16gauge to the 12v lighter socket in the back on the drivers side.
 

KellsiesJLUR

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4 gauge, battery with 100amp fuse, ground to frame.

Remote is 16gauge to the 12v lighter socket in the back on the drivers side.
Have you put a meter on the +and - of the amp while it's cutting out?
 

KellsiesJLUR

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No, I have been scared to leave it running like that long so I turn it back down.
Well, if you want to narrow it down you need to know if you have a low voltage situation. If you maintain voltage to the amp and it cuts out it would rule out the main power and ground. If get close to the volume your are looking for and it starts dropping below whatever you see at the battery, ide say you have an issue. It should have about 12.6 with the ignition off and 13.5 or better running. My etourque 2.0 charges like 14.5
 

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Well, if you want to narrow it down you need to know if you have a low voltage situation. If you maintain voltage to the amp and it cuts out it would rule out the main power and ground. If get close to the volume your are looking for and it starts dropping below whatever you see at the battery, ide say you have an issue. It should have about 12.6 with the ignition off and 13.5 or better running. My etourque 2.0 charges like 14.5
Ok, I will try that and report back
 

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