Renegade Wrangler

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I think you have a software kinda problem but I don't know how that pac works. I did some research before I pulled the trigger but I never got to see exactly how that one manipulates the factory wiring. The fact that you have just the one playing makes me guess the pac is sending the radio a signal that you want to use the phone or GPS.
I just updated it again, I am trying to narrow it to the pac or the amp.





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Sting_NC_USA

Sting_NC_USA

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I was able to do the upgrade on the 8.4, did the new wiring to the components front and SB, Pac R2 and the aftermarket amp. that took a lot, got sound but only from the front driver speakers. No sound from the sound bar or the passenger front, also the amp does not turn off, also the Roam step light also doesn't go off. a couple of times the head unit did not come on but when I put the factory harness back on it comes back on and then I would put the pac harness on again it works but back to square one. also I noticed now the pac has a solid red light. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot.:angry:
Sorry you're having issues. I've been out and about this weekend, so sorry also for a late response.

It sounds like there's a calibration issue with the PAC. Specifically, it seems like the calibration may have occurred when only the front driver channel was working (and the other channels were turned off by uConnect.

Before trying any of the following, make sure your PAC's software is updated/current, and that the DIP switches are 100% accurate based on your setup. Also, make sure your Radio's balance and fader are centered, bass boost is off and all EQ settings are flat.

(Also, can you confirm that you've run new speaker wires from your after-market amp to the new speakers, or if you've used the PAC's harness to send the amplified signal to your speakers using the stock/factory speaker wires?)​

After ensuring the above steps have been completed, the following are the first steps I would recommend:
  • Perform a hard reset of the PAC
  • Turn off the Jeep, lock it, move the keys away from the Jeep, and wait 10 minutes
    • This allows uConnect to reset, and it will perform a fresh load-sensing test
  • After the 10 minutes expire, unlock the Jeep, follow the steps (precisely) to calibrate the PAC.
    • If it was indeed uConnect that turned the other channels off before the PAC's calibration, this should take care of it and all channels will play.
If the steps immediately above don't work, and only the front driver speakers are working. Find the RCA cable that's coming out of the PAC and feeding your front driver's side channel. It will be plugged into your amp. Take the amp side of that RCA cable and plug it into each of the other inputs, one by one to see if that causes sound to come through.

If plugging the front-left (driver's side) RCA from the PAC into the other amp input channels works on each, than you know everything's good with your Amp, and uConnect/PAC are conflicting and not sending a sound signal. If doing so doesn't cause the other channels to play, we would speculate that something with the amp has gone awry.

If plugging the front-left (driver's side) RCA cable into the other channels doesn't work on the others, then try plugging the Front-Right, Rear-Left and Rear-Right RCA cables into your amps' front-left input, one at a time to see if they cause sound to come through.

If doing the above works, then you know for a fact that the PAC is receiving and processing the uConnect, and we have further proof that there's something wrong with the amp.

I think I captured the above correctly, though I'll amend it if I find I didn't articulate the steps properly.

My best guess is it's the calibration process. That is a very sensitive process, which could be further complicated by also upgrading to the 8.4 from a smaller head-unit.

Give the above a shot, assuming you haven't already, and let us know if there are any revelations.

Best of luck!
 

Renegade Wrangler

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QUOTE="Sting_NC_USA, post: 1285386, member: 15642"]
Sorry you're having issues. I've been out and about this weekend, so sorry also for a late response.

Thank you for the reply, I got so frustrated with the process, I did so many things I even punctured a hole in one of the speakers by mistake, that was a disaster a set of Focals.

It sounds like there's a calibration issue with the PAC. Specifically, it seems like the calibration may have occurred when only the front driver channel was working (and the other channels were turned off by uConnect.

that is possible, I did not think it worked that way.

Before trying any of the following, make sure your PAC's software is updated/current, and that the DIP switches are 100% accurate based on your setup. Also, make sure your Radio's balance and fader are centered, bass boost is off and all EQ settings are flat.

I did try several ways for the dip switches because what pertains to my system did not work. Did the rest after each chang.

(Also, can you confirm that you've run new speaker wires from your after-market amp to the new speakers, or if you've used the PAC's harness to send the amplified signal to your speakers using the stock/factory speaker wires?)​

I did run new wires to all the speakers like you had suggested. But on the SB I cut the Harness right before it enters the SB and ran my wiars to the amp. So That was going to be my next step to check when I punctured the speaker.

After ensuring the above steps have been completed, the following are the first steps I would recommend:
  • Perform a hard reset of the PAC
  • Turn off the Jeep, lock it, move the keys away from the Jeep, and wait 10 minutes
    • This allows uConnect to reset, and it will perform a fresh load-sensing test
  • After the 10 minutes expire, unlock the Jeep, follow the steps (precisely) to calibrate the PAC.
    • If it was indeed uConnect that turned the other channels off before the PAC's calibration, this should take care of it and all channels will play.

  • I did several resets during the process and no change.

    If the steps immediately above don't work, and only the front driver speakers are working. Find the RCA cable that's coming out of the PAC and feeding your front driver's side channel. It will be plugged into your amp. Take the amp side of that RCA cable and plug it into each of the other inputs, one by one to see if that causes sound to come through.

    I did try that, they still did not work, only the front speakers worked and on all the channels on the amp.

    If plugging the front-left (driver's side) RCA from the PAC into the other amp input channels works on each, than you know everything's good with your Amp, and uConnect/PAC are conflicting and not sending a sound signal. If doing so doesn't cause the other channels to play, we would speculate that something with the amp has gone awry.

    If plugging the front-left (driver's side) RCA cable into the other channels doesn't work on the others, then try plugging the Front-Right, Rear-Left and Rear-Right RCA cables into your amps' front-left input, one at a time to see if they cause sound to come through.

    If doing the above works, then you know for a fact that the PAC is receiving and processing the uConnect, and we have further proof that there's something wrong with the amp.

    I think I captured the above correctly, though I'll amend it if I find I didn't articulate the steps properly.

    You did, I tried most of what you mentioned, and will be honest with you, I think it was probably something very basic that I over looked, because I was getting feedback from the pac, which gave me the feeling it was working. I just could not put my finger on it.

    My best guess is it's the calibration process. That is a very sensitive process, which could be further complicated by also upgrading to the 8.4 from a smaller head-unit.

    Give the above a shot, assuming you haven't already, and let us know if there are any revelations.

    After the damage and frustration I decided to just go another route and purchase a Rockford like what KellsiesJLUR did, its on the way, hopefully it will be a bit easier and I like the options it gives. will post on how it goes, hopefully it works.

    Best of luck!​

And thank you again for trying to help,
 

KellsiesJLUR

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I just updated it again, I am trying to narrow it to the pac or the amp.
Yeah, you could see if the sound moves
QUOTE="Sting_NC_USA, post: 1285386, member: 15642"]
Sorry you're having issues. I've been out and about this weekend, so sorry also for a late response.

Thank you for the reply, I got so frustrated with the process, I did so many things I even punctured a hole in one of the speakers by mistake, that was a disaster a set of Focals.

It sounds like there's a calibration issue with the PAC. Specifically, it seems like the calibration may have occurred when only the front driver channel was working (and the other channels were turned off by uConnect.

that is possible, I did not think it worked that way.

Before trying any of the following, make sure your PAC's software is updated/current, and that the DIP switches are 100% accurate based on your setup. Also, make sure your Radio's balance and fader are centered, bass boost is off and all EQ settings are flat.

I did try several ways for the dip switches because what pertains to my system did not work. Did the rest after each chang.

(Also, can you confirm that you've run new speaker wires from your after-market amp to the new speakers, or if you've used the PAC's harness to send the amplified signal to your speakers using the stock/factory speaker wires?)​

I did run new wires to all the speakers like you had suggested. But on the SB I cut the Harness right before it enters the SB and ran my wiars to the amp. So That was going to be my next step to check when I punctured the speaker.

After ensuring the above steps have been completed, the following are the first steps I would recommend:
  • Perform a hard reset of the PAC
  • Turn off the Jeep, lock it, move the keys away from the Jeep, and wait 10 minutes
    • This allows uConnect to reset, and it will perform a fresh load-sensing test
  • After the 10 minutes expire, unlock the Jeep, follow the steps (precisely) to calibrate the PAC.
    • If it was indeed uConnect that turned the other channels off before the PAC's calibration, this should take care of it and all channels will play.

  • I did several resets during the process and no change.

    If the steps immediately above don't work, and only the front driver speakers are working. Find the RCA cable that's coming out of the PAC and feeding your front driver's side channel. It will be plugged into your amp. Take the amp side of that RCA cable and plug it into each of the other inputs, one by one to see if that causes sound to come through.

    I did try that, they still did not work, only the front speakers worked and on all the channels on the amp.

    If plugging the front-left (driver's side) RCA from the PAC into the other amp input channels works on each, than you know everything's good with your Amp, and uConnect/PAC are conflicting and not sending a sound signal. If doing so doesn't cause the other channels to play, we would speculate that something with the amp has gone awry.

    If plugging the front-left (driver's side) RCA cable into the other channels doesn't work on the others, then try plugging the Front-Right, Rear-Left and Rear-Right RCA cables into your amps' front-left input, one at a time to see if they cause sound to come through.

    If doing the above works, then you know for a fact that the PAC is receiving and processing the uConnect, and we have further proof that there's something wrong with the amp.

    I think I captured the above correctly, though I'll amend it if I find I didn't articulate the steps properly.

    You did, I tried most of what you mentioned, and will be honest with you, I think it was probably something very basic that I over looked, because I was getting feedback from the pac, which gave me the feeling it was working. I just could not put my finger on it.

    My best guess is it's the calibration process. That is a very sensitive process, which could be further complicated by also upgrading to the 8.4 from a smaller head-unit.

    Give the above a shot, assuming you haven't already, and let us know if there are any revelations.

    After the damage and frustration I decided to just go another route and purchase a Rockford like what KellsiesJLUR did, its on the way, hopefully it will be a bit easier and I like the options it gives. will post on how it goes, hopefully it works.

    Best of luck!​

And thank you again for trying to help,
You know I had to program my radio for amp mode before mine worked. I ended up buying a second one because I thought I might have smoked the first. Somebody posted about a procedure to program the output of the radio. Wonder if you have an issue with that? It was
1) turn on ignition
2) pull park brake up twice ( horn honks)
3) left turn signal for amp mode and right turn for no amp ( horn honks again) then I think it honked one more time to say it was set. It didn't work immediately but a cycle of two later or started working
 
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Sting_NC_USA

Sting_NC_USA

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Yeah, you could see if the sound moves

You know I had to program my radio for amp mode before mine worked. I ended up buying a second one because I thought I might have smoked the first. Somebody posted about a procedure to program the output of the radio. Wonder if you have an issue with that? It was
1) turn on ignition
2) pull park brake up twice ( horn honks)
3) left turn signal for amp mode and right turn for no amp ( horn honks again) then I think it honked one more time to say it was set. It didn't work immediately but a cycle of two later or started working
That procedure only works with the Rockford module connected, unfortunately. It would be nice if it was a standard function.
 

KellsiesJLUR

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That procedure only works with the Rockford module connected, unfortunately. It would be nice if it was a standard function.
I didn't know that. I thought I was doing a Chrysler/ u connect procedure. That was a $300 lesson for me cause I ended up with a spare DSR. Thank you guys for this forum!
 
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Sting_NC_USA

Sting_NC_USA

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Is it possible to remove just the speakers and not the pods? Would this make the process any easier?
Only if you fully dismantled the dash. Even then, it likely won't be worth it. They really aren't that difficult to remove if you follow the steps outlined in post #1 here.
 

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