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Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

Fa1321tx

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Just edited this post to add that I think the re-programming feature is part of the DSR1 functionality, and not of the Jeep's stock capability. Is that correct? For grins, I tried the procedure on my JLUR, and it doesn't do anything.
Did you get the horn honks or anything? I have the 7" inch set up I have not connected the DSR1 yet so I can try the procedure before I hook in the DSR1. In theory since my is still hooked to the factory wiring I should lose all volume that's what happened in the F150.

I started installing my small amp last night for temporary use until I decide which 5 ch amp to go with. Can you confirm this is the location you are using as a good ground?

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Sting_NC_USA

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Did you get the horn honks or anything? I have the 7" inch set up I have not connected the DSR1 yet so I can try the procedure before I hook in the DSR1. In theory since my is still hooked to the factory wiring I should lose all volume that's what happened in the F150.

I started installing my small amp last night for temporary use until I decide which 5 ch amp to go with. Can you confirm this is the location you are using as a good ground?
No, no horn or any other indicators, which is why I think the DSR1 is acting as a programmer once it's plugged in. Was hoping that process was a "cheat code" baked into the uConnect software.

And yes, those are decent grounding spots. I might recommend using an empty post to avoid any unexpected feedback from the other electronics.
 

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No, no horn or any other indicators, which is why I think the DSR1 is acting as a programmer once it's plugged in. Was hoping that process was a "cheat code" baked into the uConnect software.

And yes, those are decent grounding spots. I might recommend using an empty post to avoid any unexpected feedback from the other electronics.
I attempted to connect this same module. I was able to change the output and get the requisite “horn honks.” Pretty simple to do that, but I was unable to get this to work. May attempt to flash it again and re-install soon.
 
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I attempted to connect this same module. I was able to change the output and get the requisite “horn honks.” Pretty simple to do that, but I was unable to get this to work. May attempt to flash it again and re-install soon.
Changing the output worked only with the device connected, right?
 

Fa1321tx

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I attempted to connect this same module. I was able to change the output and get the requisite “horn honks.” Pretty simple to do that, but I was unable to get this to work. May attempt to flash it again and re-install soon.
I should get mine done this weekend and I will let you know how it goes. One thing that puzzled me is the can bus connector so I called them. 3 plugs come out of the harness provided by idatalink which hook to one of the ports on the DSR1. One of the black plugs is already hooked into the dCH3 harness you have to unplug it and connect the orange & yellow wire to it. Then when you run it over to the CAN bus they said you need to unplug one of the existing CAN bus connections. Plug in the dCH3 orange & yellow connection to the port you unplugged then plug the factory wire into the extension / pigtail on the dCH3 harness. Basically it needs to be in series so it receives all the CAN bus signals. The instructions do not cover this at all so if you can do it during the week the tech support seems very helpful.

Flash all 3 items to be sure.
1. Vehicle - weblink
2. Module ( bluetooth) - weblink
3. RF updater. - RF Updater
 
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Changing the output worked only with the device connected, right?
Changing without module connected - no sound. Changing with module connected - still no sound. Plan on re-flashing and re-trying soon, and be sure connected correctly to CanBus. But couldn’t get sound with module connected with either output
 

Fa1321tx

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Changing without module connected - no sound.
So potentially could be as simple as switching to amplified mode and splitting the speaker wires adding RCA's. As for the DSR1 I have seen post on another forum it works in the JL Jeep.
 
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Sting_NC_USA

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So potentially could be as simple as switching to amplified mode and splitting the speaker wires adding RCA's. As for the DSR1 I have seen post on another forum it works in the JL Jeep.
I'm still convinced the reprogram mode is only available as a feature provided by the FSR1, so there doesn't appear to be away to toggle amplified mode without it.
 

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I'm looking to buy the Morel Maximo Ultra 602 component speakers. I was wondering if I could get help with figuring out what 5-channel amp to pair the speakers with. Right now I will only be using the amp for a subwoofer and the two morel speakers but I eventually plan on adding two coaxial rear speakers with the amp.

Should I only look at amps with a RMS of 75 watts per channel? Can I get away with a 100 RMS or could that damage the speakers since they only go up to 90 watts RMS?

Am I not using my speakers to their full potential if the amp's per channel watt RMS is less than 90?
 

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I'm looking to buy the Morel Maximo Ultra 602 component speakers. I was wondering if I could get help with figuring out what 5-channel amp to pair the speakers with. Right now I will only be using the amp for a subwoofer and the two morel speakers but I eventually plan on adding two coaxial rear speakers with the amp.

Should I only look at amps with a RMS of 75 watts per channel? Can I get away with a 100 RMS or could that damage the speakers since they only go up to 90 watts RMS?

Am I not using my speakers to their full potential if the amp's per channel watt RMS is less than 90?
really will matter how much you want to spend. If money isn’t an issue I would grab a JL Audio VX/1000 5i. Built in digital sound processor and would really help fine tune.

I just did a full install starting with the AmpPro module with no dsp and the sound is much better than stock but I am having a really hard time adjusting this install to get it balanced. Best way to describe the sound is like listening to music at a stadium during a commercial break. Loud, powerful, but sloppy. Have had systems in the past with some stout Pioneer head units that had enough processing to dial these things in. Now without adding a dsp it is just not refined.

For the money I probably should have waited a little longer, done the 3 way Focals up front, and got this amp. Especially with the work you have to put into tearing down the dash, make sure you do this right the first time.
 
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Sting_NC_USA

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I'm looking to buy the Morel Maximo Ultra 602 component speakers. I was wondering if I could get help with figuring out what 5-channel amp to pair the speakers with. Right now I will only be using the amp for a subwoofer and the two morel speakers but I eventually plan on adding two coaxial rear speakers with the amp.

Should I only look at amps with a RMS of 75 watts per channel? Can I get away with a 100 RMS or could that damage the speakers since they only go up to 90 watts RMS?

Am I not using my speakers to their full potential if the amp's per channel watt RMS is less than 90?
Here's a bit more detail than you probably wanted!

75 watts into 90 RMS speakers isn't terrible. That said, you can actually hurt speakers by under powering them since turning the lower powered amp up too much sends significantly more distortion. If you research the topic of pairing an amp, you'll see that 75% to 150% of the speaker's RMS value is in the acceptable range for amp wattage. I tend to error on the high side of that range, providing 125-150% of the speaker's RMS values. Doing so provides ton's of extra headroom without pushing the amp too hard.

So, addressing your question about which amp to buy, recommending a specific amp is tough. The answer is totally different for those who just want a little more than stock, those focused on loudness/power and those more interested in sound quality. There's a ton of amps in each category that will get the job done. What matters most is that you find one in your price/interest range with low distortion and the features you want. Some amps have digital signal processors (DSPs) built in, some are bridgeable and the features go on and on. There's also the question of whether you want a single, multi-channel amp to power everything, or if you want run higher power to the sub(s) which would generally require two amps.

There's also a somewhat recent trend in car audio where discrete power is sent to each speaker component. Instead of sending one amplified channel to a crossover that splits the sound to a mid-range speaker and tweeter, two separate amplified channels are sent with the gain, crossover, timing and equalization handled by the amp's DSP, or an external DSP. For example, I'm using the JL Audio VX800/8i, sending two full channels of power to each corner of the Jeep. 8 channels, with discrete settings for each individual component.

If you'll share more about what your wanting to accomplish, this group will try to point you in the right direction. How's that saying go... Buy once, cry once!
 

Parvezident

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Here's a bit more detail than you probably wanted!

75 watts into 90 RMS speakers isn't terrible. That said, you can actually hurt speakers by under powering them since turning the lower powered amp up too much sends significantly more distortion. If you research the topic of pairing an amp, you'll see that 75% to 150% of the speaker's RMS value is in the acceptable range for amp wattage. I tend to error on the high side of that range, providing 125-150% of the speaker's RMS values. Doing so provides ton's of extra headroom without pushing the amp too hard.

So, addressing your question about which amp to buy, recommending a specific amp is tough. The answer is totally different for those who just want a little more than stock, those focused on loudness/power and those more interested in sound quality. There's a ton of amps in each category that will get the job done. What matters most is that you find one in your price/interest range with low distortion and the features you want. Some amps have digital signal processors (DSPs) built in, some are bridgeable and the features go on and on. There's also the question of whether you want a single, multi-channel amp to power everything, or if you want run higher power to the sub(s) which would generally require two amps.

There's also a somewhat recent trend in car audio where discrete power is sent to each speaker component. Instead of sending one amplified channel to a crossover that splits the sound to a mid-range speaker and tweeter, two separate amplified channels are sent with the gain, crossover, timing and equalization handled by the amp's DSP, or an external DSP. For example, I'm using the JL Audio VX800/8i, sending two full channels of power to each corner of the Jeep. 8 channels, with discrete settings for each individual component.

If you'll share more about what your wanting to accomplish, this group will try to point you in the right direction. How's that saying go... Buy once, cry once!
Thanks for the detail - that was helpful! I would say i'm looking for better sound quality with a bit of loudness/power. I don't plan on keeping the volume on max the whole time but could see myself requiring more power once in a while. I mostly listen to hip-hop/rap if that helps as well.

Price range I'm currently looking at is around $500 but I'm willing to spend a little more if the incremental cost makes sense. Currently scoping out the Alpine PDX-V9 (found it for ~$490 a few weeks ago, going for $900 right now), Rockford Fosgate T1000x5AD ($500 used or $580 new on Amazon right now), Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000X5 ($375 on Amazon right now), and Alpine PDR-V75 ($440 on Amazon right now). I would love to spend $1K on an amp with DSP built-in but it's out of my budget unfortunately. Any of these you recommend or others I should look at instead?
 
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Sting_NC_USA

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Thanks for the detail - that was helpful! I would say i'm looking for better sound quality with a bit of loudness/power. I don't plan on keeping the volume on max the whole time but could see myself requiring more power once in a while. I mostly listen to hip-hop/rap if that helps as well.

Price range I'm currently looking at is around $500 but I'm willing to spend a little more if the incremental cost makes sense. Currently scoping out the Alpine PDX-V9 (found it for ~$490 a few weeks ago, going for $900 right now), Rockford Fosgate T1000x5AD ($500 used or $580 new on Amazon right now), Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000X5 ($375 on Amazon right now), and Alpine PDR-V75 ($440 on Amazon right now). I would love to spend $1K on an amp with DSP built-in but it's out of my budget unfortunately. Any of these you recommend or others I should look at instead?
No bad choices there. Anything I share here is strictly personal preference and nothing more than that. I'd first encourage you to read the reviews, both professional and individual. If possible, go listen to them and pair each with the speakers you want.

Each of these amps is in the same class, and the 4-channel section should be fairly comparable. It's the sub channel that you'll really want to test. There's a bit of smoke and mirrors with numbers posted on sub channel power. Make sure you're reviewing what type of power the amp's sub channel puts out at 4Ohms. Most of these boast of very high numbers, but when you read into them, you'll see they're quoting numbers at the 2Ohm and sometimes 1Ohm levels. That's pretty crazy, as many subs can't handle those loads and running at 2Ohm or 1Ohm generates tons of extra heat.

Of the choices you listed, I feel Alpine has the least "punch" for the dollars paid. They're clean amps, but typically don't have the extra umph in the sub-channel. I'd probably recommend the T1000x5AD for what you're wanting. That said, I'd have to throw in the JL Audio RD900/5 for comparison. It wasn't on your list, but shows up on a number of "Top 10" lists for amps in this range. If you found the RD900/5 on sale, or wish to use one of my contacts, I think you could get a much better deal.

Let us know which way you go, and how you like your choice.
 

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If you found the RD900/5 on sale, or wish to use one of my contacts, I think you could get a much better deal.

Let us know which way you go, and how you like your choice.
I'll second the RD line of amps from JL. I was going to go with that 900/5 amp, however I'm installing under the front seats and that one won't fit. I ended up with a two amp set up using the RD400/4 and the RD500/1. They're essentially the 900/5 just two amps instead of one. I am very pleased with how they sound and the ease of tuning.
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