Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[lotaguts]

It's the latter, actually. Unless I'm mistaken, you really have to upgrade everything if you run with the PAC, because it plugs in-line with your existing harness.

You could initially run an amp and sub off of a basic LOC like the LC2i, using the rear speaker wires, then upgrade everything later
You'd only be out the cost of the LC2i when you're ready to upgrade, which isn't too expensive, and would likely sell pretty quickly on CL or FB.

I don't have a link at the moment for the Metra harness, but I'd bet a fellow member here can help. If I find it later, I'll update this post.

Thanks again for all your feedback.

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[Goosed]

@Sting_NC_USA Can I hook us up to the remote wire for the aftermarket amps? Or is this for something else? Directions for unit aren’t clear.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

@Sting_NC_USA Can I hook us up to the remote wire for the aftermarket amps? Or is this for something else? Directions for unit aren’t clear.

Assuming that's the wire from the PAC, yes!

Make sure to test with a voltmeter before connecting anything.

Here's the diagram:

 

[Goosed]

Assuming that's the wire from the PAC, yes!

Make sure to test with a voltmeter before connecting anything.

Here's the diagram:

So is it okay to run 2 remote wires off of this output, since I need to run remotes to each amp? Can’t remember how I did this before.

 

[ToPar9]

So is it okay to run 2 remote wires off of this output, since I need to run remotes to each amp? Can’t remember how I did this before.

Does one of your amps have an in and an out?
I have a JBL 1000x4, that has a remote in/out.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

So is it okay to run 2 remote wires off of this output, since I need to run remotes to each amp? Can’t remember how I did this before.

It can handle two. Remote Wires are really just trigger wires, not a true power source.

On occasion one amp will require a higher trigger voltage than others, but that's pretty rare.

 

[CanoMojitoJL]

Hey Fellas,
Any one can help me with this. I have my JLU sport unlimited non premium system. I recently upgrade my radio 5.5 for 7” and everything good, now I decide to add OEM AMP and OEM subwoofer. I been trying for days and looking info but have not been successful on where to find the cables and harness to connect the OEM. If anyone did that OEM upgrade I will appreciate the help.

 

[Goosed]

It can handle two. Remote Wires are really just trigger wires, not a true power source.

On occasion one amp will require a higher trigger voltage than others, but that's pretty rare.

For the non amplified 7” system, does this need connected (factory speaker harness)? I did not connect this one, thought since I ran all new speaker wire from the speakers to the amp and then ran RCA’s from the amp pro to the JL Audio amps it did not need hooked up.

Haven’t ran my power wire yet, got scared cutting that boot under the passenger dash. So want to make sure the above is hooked up correctly and then having a custom wire shop run the power wire then this is all done. Finally.

Will say this install was much more involved and complex than the JK. They built the JL a lot better and stouter, but that made this install a PITA.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Hey Fellas,
Any one can help me with this. I have my JLU sport unlimited non premium system. I recently upgrade my radio 5.5 for 7” and everything good, now I decide to add OEM AMP and OEM subwoofer. I been trying for days and looking info but have not been successful on where to find the cables and harness to connect the OEM. If anyone did that OEM upgrade I will appreciate the help.

Reach out to Benny @AllMoparParts.com who is a sponsor here. He's extremely helpful and responsive.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

For the non amplified 7” system, does this need connected (factory speaker harness)? I did not connect this one, thought since I ran all new speaker wire from the speakers to the amp and then ran RCA’s from the amp pro to the JL Audio amps it did not need hooked up.

Haven’t ran my power wire yet, got scared cutting that boot under the passenger dash. So want to make sure the above is hooked up correctly and then having a custom wire shop run the power wire then this is all done. Finally.

Will say this install was much more involved and complex than the JK. They built the JL a lot better and stouter, but that made this install a PITA.

Correct, if you ran your own wires (good choice!) then you don't need the pigtail adapter. That pigtail is only used if you want to send the output of your amp back through the stock speaker wires. You're almost there!

 

[sandor.g]

Hey Fellas,
Any one can help me with this. I have my JLU sport unlimited non premium system. I recently upgrade my radio 5.5 for 7” and everything good, now I decide to add OEM AMP and OEM subwoofer. I been trying for days and looking info but have not been successful on where to find the cables and harness to connect the OEM. If anyone did that OEM upgrade I will appreciate the help.

i have done some research and the Alpine vs non-Alpine factory harnesses are different and as far as I know not sold separately.
Looked like a masssssive PITA so I gave up on it fairly quickly.

 

[pgborg]

Hey long time reader, first time writer... my goal is to upgrade all the speakers (speakers only mind you) in my 2018 JL Moab w/ uConnect 8.4 Alpine, I have a blown speaker Left Knee Panel that desperately needs replacing, and while I was at it I was going to replace the rest of the speakers in the car.
I went with Infinity 3.5 coax in the dash (easy) , infinity 6.5 in Knee panels (Prepped and installing tomorrow AM), and Match MS42S 4" separates (woofer/tweeter x-over) in the soundbar and I think I have made a horrible mistake in wiring this up. the Match Separates is rated at 4 ohms.
I pulled out the soundbar (that sucked), I figured out that the light needs to come out before the panel that hides the two screws... yadda yadda,
I got it out and wired up the driver side not using the tweeter speaker wires (I used BoomMat and polyfill) and there is hardly any sound coming from the driver's side, could this be because of i am not using the 3.5 factory tweeter speaker wire?
If this is the case, how do I resolve the problem

My thoughts on troubleshooting this are as follows: I inadvertently disconnected the 3.5 speaker causing uConnect to shut down that channel.

Thoughts on this dilemma from reading this Forum
1) use a 47 Ohm 5w resistor on the 3.5 tweeter wires faking the Alpine 8.4 amp that there is a speaker plugged in?
2) wire the Woofer and Tweeter wires together? This would again possibly Fake the Alpine Uconnect system into thinking there is still a speaker there?
3) Move the tweeter and plug the 3.5 tweeters back in? (not a fan of this)
4) Say f-it and put the stock crap back in, call it good with the 6.5s & 3.5's up front.

Thoughts, suggestions...
ThatPeteGuy

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Hey long time reader, first time writer... my goal is to upgrade all the speakers (speakers only mind you) in my 2018 JL Moab w/ uConnect 8.4 Alpine, I have a blown speaker Left Knee Panel that desperately needs replacing, and while I was at it I was going to replace the rest of the speakers in the car.
I went with Infinity 3.5 coax in the dash (easy) , infinity 6.5 in Knee panels (Prepped and installing tomorrow AM), and Match MS42S 4" separates (woofer/tweeter x-over) in the soundbar and I think I have made a horrible mistake in wiring this up. the Match Separates is rated at 4 ohms.
I pulled out the soundbar (that sucked), I figured out that the light needs to come out before the panel that hides the two screws... yadda yadda,
I got it out and wired up the driver side not using the tweeter speaker wires (I used BoomMat and polyfill) and there is hardly any sound coming from the driver's side, could this be because of i am not using the 3.5 factory tweeter speaker wire?
If this is the case, how do I resolve the problem

My thoughts on troubleshooting this are as follows: I inadvertently disconnected the 3.5 speaker causing uConnect to shut down that channel.

Thoughts on this dilemma from reading this Forum
1) use a 47 Ohm 5w resistor on the 3.5 tweeter wires faking the Alpine 8.4 amp that there is a speaker plugged in?
2) wire the Woofer and Tweeter wires together? This would again possibly Fake the Alpine Uconnect system into thinking there is still a speaker there?
3) Move the tweeter and plug the 3.5 tweeters back in? (not a fan of this)
4) Say f-it and put the stock crap back in, call it good with the 6.5s & 3.5's up front.

Thoughts, suggestions...
ThatPeteGuy

In each corner of your Jeep, the stock wires are simply split and then run to each mid-range and tweeter. It shouldn't matter that you didn't use the tweeter specific wires, as long as they aren't shorting out on anything.

Best guess is you would simply need to add the resistors, right before the signal enters each speaker. That alone should take care of the amp not turning on any particular channel.

My only concern would be how efficient your 6.5's are, and whether the Alpine has enough power to push them. Haven't seen the stats, but the Infinity speakers are usually pretty tolerant for lower wattage. Please share how the speaker-only upgrade goes/went.

Best of luck with your install!

 

[Jendry259]

Hi. I have a JLU Rubicon 2020 without the sound system. I found the used sound system of a Rubicon online. Here is the photo. To install this on my Rubicon do I need something additional to make it work? What I need ? Thanks friends ..

 

[Fa1321tx]

Hey guys I am going with the RF DSR1 using the dCH3 t-harness on a non amplified JL Jeep. I already installed Morel components in the dash and adding the Morel coaxles in the roll bar with the SSV adapters. I want to add a 5 ch amp under the seat. I really do not want to drop the $$$ JL audio wants for their sweet looking amp rack. Are there other options available?

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