Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[Sting_NC_USA]

Cant get them back on no matter how hard I try. Any advice on what to do to the clips to get them back on?

It's a total pain to get those back on. You have to pry them open and wedge them back onto the plastic posts. The hard part is trying not to break them as you're stretching them out. If I recall correctly, I used some needle nosed pliers to expand them. It's a patience thing for sure.

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[Sting_NC_USA]

I am curious if anyone with the 8.4/alpine system with sub has added another AMP/SUB just for some extra punch and how the factory speakers hold up sound wise. Is it simply a waste since the additional subs wil drown everything out. I was looking at the JL enclosure with the two 12's. Any feedback is appreciated.

Sure, several here have done exactly what you're talking about, and they've enjoyed the upgrade. You'd only need to add an LOC (like the LC2i or similar) that's tapped into the twisted pair wires at the base of the B-Pillar behind the back seat. You really can't use the PAC, because you'd need to amplify the rest of your speakers, too. In my humble opinion, the JL Fix86 would be a bit of overkill for just adding a Sub.

The rule of thumb is that you don't typically want to mix two different subs, as they can cancel each other's frequencies a bit. However, since the stock sub is mild, it's reported that they play well together. Two 12's, depending on how much power your sending them, could be a little overpowering, but if you temper them a bit with your bass control knob, you'll leave plenty of headroom for songs that need a little extra boost.

 

[sandor.g]

For those of you, who plan on using 4” speakers in the pods: I am in the middle of designing an adapter ring that would fit without cutting anything. Will keep you posted. The rinky dink model is done :D
I’ll try to cut the acrylic model tomorrow and if it sits right I’ll make a 3D model that y’all can print.

 

[SPR Pumpkin Rubi]

So I have screwed up something bad. My Jeep will no longer start in middle of adding / replacing the factory sub.

Here is what I have. I am using an LC2i, amp, and sub. Pulled the turn on wire from the cig lighter to the amp and then to the LC2i. Power from the battery to the amp and then over to the LC2I. Ground from the body to the amp and then to the LC2I. At first I didn't run the turn on wire to the LC2I and I had no power. Well when I did run the little power wire over it worked.

The sub did not work so I thought it may be some protection mode that I needed to run the Jeep to get the amp to have enough power. I cranked it up, and it stopped running within 5 seconds. Now it will cycle through ACC, Start, and Off but will not crank. Foot on the brake and all. When you get to start it tells me that the 4x4 needs service, sway bar, and air bag. Now the passenger seat is still out and thus the reason for the Air Bag. On Monday I went to Walmart without the seat so it ran fine without the seat and air bag.

Before my wife finds out this Jeep doesn't run and so I can finish this project, what am I doing wrong? I have a tazor but it's been on there for 8 months or so. Help Me, please.....lol.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

@SPR Pumpkin Rubi Check to see how tight your battery terminals are on your positive and negative battery posts.

Sounds like a bad battery connection, or your battery may have depleted during the install.

Assuming the wires aren't shorting anywhere, and that none were cut when running your power wire through the firewall, you should be OK based on checking the items noted.

uConnect does have safeguards that shut certain things down when the battery voltage is under 12v.

Let us know how it's going, and good luck!

 

[lotaguts]

Sure, several here have done exactly what you're talking about, and they've enjoyed the upgrade. You'd only need to add an LOC (like the LC2i or similar) that's tapped into the twisted pair wires at the base of the B-Pillar behind the back seat. You really can't use the PAC, because you'd need to amplify the rest of your speakers, too. In my humble opinion, the JL Fix86 would be a bit of overkill for just adding a Sub.

The rule of thumb is that you don't typically want to mix two different subs, as they can cancel each other's frequencies a bit. However, since the stock sub is mild, it's reported that they play well together. Two 12's, depending on how much power your sending them, could be a little overpowering, but if you temper them a bit with your bass control knob, you'll leave plenty of headroom for songs that need a little extra boost.

Thanks so much for the reply, I was thinking of going with the LC7i in case I wanted to later add another AMP and upgrade speakers soundbar/dash speakers, do you recommend that as a good route? Thanks again...

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Thanks so much for the reply, I was thinking of going with the LC7i in case I wanted to later add another AMP and upgrade speakers soundbar/dash speakers, do you recommend that as a good route? Thanks again...

The simple answer is yes, you can use an LC7i! I believe you would still need to follow the resistor approach to pass the uConnect signal sensing test, unless AudioControl has overcome the signal sensing compatibility issue. Also, Metra makes a harness that plugs in-line with the existing radio harness, if you want to go this route and not cut/tap stock wires.

The PAC handles the signal sensing issues with uConnect and does a decent job with flattening the signal, too. It's the easiest option available.

The Fix86 does a better job of flattening/conditioning than the PAC, and its only an assumption on my part that the PAC and AudioControl options are comparable. Once again, the PAC Amp Pro is a plug-and-play option that doesn't require resistors.

Hope that didn't confuse things more!

 

[Goosed]

@Sting_NC_USA @Biconia for running through power wire through the firewall passenger side seal, where is the best place - below the giant wire loom, above, to the right/left? I will not be approaching from above, didn’t want to remove the fuse box and bottom tray. Will be going from underneath under the inner fender liner.

 

[lotaguts]

The simple answer is yes, you can use an LC7i! I believe you would still need to follow the resistor approach to pass the uConnect signal sensing test, unless AudioControl has overcome the signal sensing compatibility issue. Also, Metra makes a harness that plugs in-line with the existing radio harness, if you want to go this route and not cut/tap stock wires.

The PAC handles the signal sensing issues with uConnect and does a decent job with flattening the signal, too. It's the easiest option available.

The Fix86 does a better job of flattening/conditioning than the PAC, and its only an assumption on my part that the PAC and AudioControl options are comparable. Once again, the PAC Amp Pro is a plug-and-play option that doesn't require resistors.

Hope that didn't confuse things more!

First off thanks for your knowledge and the time, So in theory could I go with a PAC, run RCA to my SUB AMP, then eventually when I am ready to upgrade the speakers run RCA to a 4 channel amp from the PAC? or once you use the PAC I would need to run aftermarket AMPS to run all channels? Can you point me in the direction of the Metra adapters part #?

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

@Sting_NC_USA @Biconia for running through power wire through the firewall passenger side seal, where is the best place - below the giant wire loom, above, to the right/left? I will not be approaching from above, didn’t want to remove the fuse box and bottom tray. Will be going from underneath under the inner fender liner.

8:00 inside and 4:00 outside. Get some Fish Tape, and you'll cut your time in half!

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

First off thanks for your knowledge and the time, So in theory could I go with a PAC, run RCA to my SUB AMP, then eventually when I am ready to upgrade the speakers run RCA to a 4 channel amp from the PAC? or once you use the PAC I would need to run aftermarket AMPS to run all channels? Can you point me in the direction of the Metra adapters part #?

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

It's the latter, actually. Unless I'm mistaken, you really have to upgrade everything if you run with the PAC, because it plugs in-line with your existing harness.

You could initially run an amp and sub off of a basic LOC like the LC2i, using the rear speaker wires, then upgrade everything later
You'd only be out the cost of the LC2i when you're ready to upgrade, which isn't too expensive, and would likely sell pretty quickly on CL or FB.

I don't have a link at the moment for the Metra harness, but I'd bet a fellow member here can help. If I find it later, I'll update this post.

 

[SPR Pumpkin Rubi]

@SPR Pumpkin Rubi Check to see how tight your battery terminals are on your positive and negative battery posts.

Sounds like a bad battery connection, or your battery may have depleted during the install.

Assuming the wires aren't shorting anywhere, and that none were cut when running your power wire through the firewall, you should be OK based on checking the items noted.

uConnect does have safeguards that shut certain things down when the battery voltage is under 12v.

Let us know how it's going, and good luck!

Something is killing the battery and fast. After charging the battery for a few hours up from 12, it ran but it threw some codes. At first it threw 13 codes and I wiped all of those out with the tazor. I have code U0432 that is staying on there. I'm also getting a service 4wd, lockers light are flashing on the front dash, and issue with the sway bar. So while figuring out the codes and letting the radio play, it has dropped back down to 12.xx volts that fast. I did let it idle enough for the motor to reach operating temp.

So the LC2i has power and the amp has power but the sub is not getting anything. I attached a picture of where i tapped for the speaker wires.

Not sure what to do.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Something is killing the battery and fast. After charging the battery for a few hours up from 12, it ran but it threw some codes. At first it threw 13 codes and I wiped all of those out with the tazor. I have code U0432 that is staying on there. I'm also getting a service 4wd, lockers light are flashing on the front dash, and issue with the sway bar. So while figuring out the codes and letting the radio play, it has dropped back down to 12.xx volts that fast. I did let it idle enough for the motor to reach operating temp.

So the LC2i has power and the amp has power but the sub is not getting anything. I attached a picture of where i tapped for the speaker wires.

Not sure what to do.

PM me your mobile number.

 

[Goosed]

8:00 inside and 4:00 outside. Get some Fish Tape, and you'll cut your time in half!

so it’s a straight shot through?

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