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6sp MT - difficult shifting after clutch install

Industrialwrench

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Hey Taylor - sadly I can't offer a silver bullet. Mine doesn't sound as bad as yours, but it still isn't buttery smooth, or anywhere close. I've had three different versions of the CF clutch and my current is the best of the three. I'm reluctant to spend $2k for another one (parts and install) as I can live with this one, but it is unfortunate.

I tried lots of things to improve - repeated (inc overnight) bleeding of MC, etc. Nothing seemed to make it what it should be. To be fair to CF, I think much of it is the overall MT design they need to work within, so more FCA than CF...
Lol It’s not a MT design problem, it’s an installation error or an incompatibility problem with which is even more doubtful. Everyone’s shifter works just fine before the CF install.
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I just had the CF II clutch installed on my 2018 JLU. I expect a break in period as this is my first CF clutch. But it's very stiff, especially in 1st gear and reverse. Is that what you experienced too? There are times it won't come out of 1st gear, but after a few tries it will. Same with reverse, or even going into reverse. I have to really work at it and force it. Other times it's fine. It almost feels like going into 4Lo the first few times - like something isn't aligned right. Does that make sense?
The other gears aren't much of an issue. I'm hoping it's just the break in, but the 1st gear reluctance is the biggest issue right now.
I'm going to post in the other threads too, but would appreciate any input. Thanks!
The system is tricky to bleed, have the installer do it a couple more times and you should be good.
 

Az-jewel

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The system is tricky to bleed, have the installer do it a couple more times and you should be good.
I was really hoping that was it!! I will work on it, thank you!!
 

Az-jewel

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thanks you guys! I really appreciate it! I will reach out to my shop. I was hoping it was just a break in thing, but I guess I will have to take it back.
 

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I recall one guy saying he had to burp it overnight and then bleed it like 10x.
 

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Az-jewel

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Follow up question-will it hurt the clutch or transmission to drive it this way until it can be fixed?
 

Toycrusher

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Follow up question-will it hurt the clutch or transmission to drive it this way until it can be fixed?
Practice running the shifter into 2nd or 3rd gate before shooting for first or reverse and you won't have any trouble going into gear. Those snycros are very tough and a few weeks or even months won't phase them
 

Az-jewel

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Thank you @Toycrusher !! I’m not sure how long it’ll take to get in the shop!
 
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Willing&Able

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Lol It’s not a MT design problem, it’s an installation error or an incompatibility problem with which is even more doubtful. Everyone’s shifter works just fine before the CF install.
Clearly it's a design problem - hence there have been three versions of the CF clutch released. I've had version 1 & 2 installed. Waiting to hear longer term reviews of version three before considering the purchase..
 

Industrialwrench

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Clearly it's a design problem - hence there have been three versions of the CF clutch released. I've had version 1 & 2 installed. Waiting to hear longer term reviews of version three before considering the purchase..
An aftermarket component availability doesn’t in itself mean that the OEM part is ā€œBadā€. My clutch works fantastic stock. Not sure why yours didn’t. Or what’s seriously different from this clutch and any other really. I mean I understand the over engineering involved with the OEM. But it’s just a clutch. If it holds without slipping and disengages then it works. From a users perspective I feel perplexed by the need to replace it with anything before it wears out. I’m only 15k miles in so far but it feels the same now as when purchased. I expect another 50-60k miles easy? If anything it feels the same or smoother acting than all the previous vehicles I’ve had with sticks. I’ve never experienced slipping or difficulty with pulling in or out of gears. I’ve even let my 15 year old daughter learn how to drive a stick and it still is rocking just fine.
 

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Toycrusher

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An aftermarket component availability doesn’t in itself mean that the OEM part is ā€œBadā€. My clutch works fantastic stock. Not sure why yours didn’t. Or what’s seriously different from this clutch and any other really. I mean I understand the over engineering involved with the OEM. But it’s just a clutch. If it holds without slipping and disengages then it works. From a users perspective I feel perplexed by the need to replace it with anything before it wears out. I’m only 15k miles in so far but it feels the same now as when purchased. I expect another 50-60k miles easy? If anything it feels the same or smoother acting than all the previous vehicles I’ve had with sticks. I’ve never experienced slipping or difficulty with pulling in or out of gears. I’ve even let my 15 year old daughter learn how to drive a stick and it still is rocking just fine.
It's multi-part. Some stock clutches, like mine, engaged poorly in stages, rather than evenly like yours seems to be. A single disc design fixes that.

The stock setup uses a featherweight flywheel that doesn't store much energy. Many of us are accustomed to the high energy storage of a heavy flywheel and prefer the feel. A heavy flywheel like the CF gives us the feel and low speed performance we enjoy.

Aside from early production, there's no reason to worry yours won't last. Some of us though are looking for a different feel and/or performance.
 

Industrialwrench

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It's multi-part. Some stock clutches, like mine, engaged poorly in stages, rather than evenly like yours seems to be. A single disc design fixes that.

The stock setup uses a featherweight flywheel that doesn't store much energy. Many of us are accustomed to the high energy storage of a heavy flywheel and prefer the feel. A heavy flywheel like the CF gives us the feel and low speed performance we enjoy.

Aside from early production, there's no reason to worry yours won't last. Some of us though are looking for a different feel and/or performance.
Double check under your dash and make sure the mechanical linkage for the clutch pedal is seated. Crawl under there and watch it while you push it in and out. Awkward as can be imagined to do this. I had the ā€œmulti stageā€ feeling and it had nothing to do with the clutch. It was a small ball snap that wasn’t clipped from the factory down by the fire wall.
 

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Double check under your dash and make sure the mechanical linkage for the clutch pedal is seated. Crawl under there and watch it while you push it in and out. Awkward as can be imagined to do this. I had the ā€œmulti stageā€ feeling and it had nothing to do with the clutch. It was a small ball snap that wasn’t clipped from the factory down by the fire wall.
In my case, I had to replace the clutch master cylinder two different times and it wasn't that, but I see how it could
 

Cutterone

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Update: Good news, the instructions I provided to adjust the shifter cables worked! Copying in the my recap that I posted under another thread here for reference. Good luck @Willing&Able - I hope the instructions I uploaded work for your issue as well.

I just picked my 2020 JLUR from the shop and it drives flawlessly with the Centerforce II installed. The clutch feels a thousand times better than the factory clutch and that annoying whirring sound you get when shifting (rev hang I think) is gone! The pedal is much stiffer to my liking and feels like an actual manual. The entire setup feels much more substantial. This is my 3rd clutch in this vehicle (the first two were factory clutches) and I have just under 35k total mileage on it. I sincerely hope the CF II lasts at least 80-100k miles.

The shop told me they had to spend some time with the adjustments on the cables and after taking them farther than they initially did it corrected the alignment issue that popped up after they did the CF II clutch install. For anyone else with shifter alignment issues like this after the clutch install, you can scroll up for the instructions that I posted in an earlier reply.

I'll provide another update in a hundred miles or so and then a few others after that as I know lots of us have been anxious to hear how the CF II performs. 25 miles in and it's a dream. My total price breakdown below:

-CF II clutch from ExtremeTerrain (I ordered early and they honored the lower pricing that appeared by mistake on their website): $1,190.86
-Clutch install by reputable 4X4 shop in business since 1978 (Folbeck 4 Wheel Drive, Reno, NV): $2644.40
-TOTAL: $3,835.26
$2600 for install! I had my CF2 installed at a local tranny shop in October for $800...
 
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Willing&Able

Willing&Able

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An aftermarket component availability doesn’t in itself mean that the OEM part is ā€œBadā€. My clutch works fantastic stock. Not sure why yours didn’t. Or what’s seriously different from this clutch and any other really. I mean I understand the over engineering involved with the OEM. But it’s just a clutch. If it holds without slipping and disengages then it works. From a users perspective I feel perplexed by the need to replace it with anything before it wears out. I’m only 15k miles in so far but it feels the same now as when purchased. I expect another 50-60k miles easy? If anything it feels the same or smoother acting than all the previous vehicles I’ve had with sticks. I’ve never experienced slipping or difficulty with pulling in or out of gears. I’ve even let my 15 year old daughter learn how to drive a stick and it still is rocking just fine.
Considering there are several TSB's / fixes for the stock clutch there is something wrong from the factory - at least for some. For me, it would slip/burn frequently. I've driven manuals for 30 years, so not user error. I received a TSB that there was risk that this could cause a fire - but no fix was in place at the time. Given I have kids, I wasn't ok with a possible fire with no fix.

Google Jeep JL MT fire - you'll see several of them. Later, as I understand, they relocated some lines and would 'detune' the motor in the event of overheating.
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